107 replies to this topic

[Mad Mark]

Not a rainy day project but a quick few hour build. didnt put any kind of outrigger or side pan kinda deals so I can change bodies easy.

[olescratch]

  "A few hours?"  It takes me that long just to decide what to do LOL!  Nice!

[Bill from NH]

John, the older we get, the slower we seem. It's not that we're slower, it's that we got more brain wrinkles to move an idea over. 

[Mad Mark]

Think i like this Rasta lotus 30 more. after a little straightening and a polish looks not half bad.

[Bill from NH]

Mark, can you also post a photo of the chassis & motor? Some of us have a chassis fetish.    The Lotus 30 body still shines after all these years.

[Mad Mark]

Mark, can you also post a photo of the chassis & motor? Some of us have a chassis fetish.    The Lotus 30 body still shines after all these years.

Same chassis as the black chap just swapped bodies and front wheels.

[Martin]

A lot to like about that chassis. In particular I like the lack of standard motor bracket and the use of frame tubes/rods to mount the motor.

[olescratch]

  I have to admit that it took me a couple extra views to identify the structure of the way the motor was mounted.  Clever!

[Mad Mark]

I have to admit that it took me a couple extra views to identify the structure of the way the motor was mounted.  Clever!

Thanks guys. quick test with my slow russkit 22 it seems ok. A little hoppy and a little tilty. I tried swapping motors and kept running Into binding problems where the motor doesnt turn over smooth. took me a sec but I figured out its the endbell mating surface is warped and when tightened against motor plate binds the arm.

so I have a better russkit motor with brush heat sinks and put some super low pro rears on and a big brass guide weight.

Guessing this is a sidewinder motor bracket. i have a couple conventional u shape motor mounts left but I enjoy doing this style I think it looks pretty cool.

[Martin]

I really like your motor mount.

But I have to say I would trim on the sides to match the angle of the side tubes.

Also, maybe next time it would be better to solderer the angled tubes to the back side. It would leave more space for brush hoods and spring post etc.

Hope to don't mind constructive criticism.   

[Mad Mark]

I really like your motor mount.
But I have to say I would trim on the sides to match the angle of the side tubes.
Also, maybe next time it would be better to solderer the angled tubes to the back side. It would leave more space for brush hoods and spring post etc.
Hope to don't mind constructive criticism. 

I was going to mirror the rails going up to the front of the motor bracket in the rear but going to the rear axle. decided not to since it was pretty tricky getting that motor bracket in place and I didn’t want to de solder it on accident. also that would look cool cutting the bracket to match the angle didn’t even think of that was just thinking have lots of surface area for solder to stick to. and no I don’t mind critiques from accomplished builders.

[Bill from NH]

The four 1/16" holes in that bracket indicates it probably is used on an inline application, maybe a space tube chassis, maybe a way to connect a rear axle & gears to a motor's endbell. Usually both are done with slightly larger rectangular brass plates.

 

The Russkit 23 (red label) is an improvement over the Russkit 22 (black label). In addition to the brush tube heat sinks, the 23 has a hotter wind on the armature & stronger magnets. You can still buy new 22s but finding a good running 23 can be difficult.

[Mad Mark]

The four 1/16" holes in that bracket indicates it probably is used on an inline application, maybe a space tube chassis, maybe a way to connect a rear axle & gears to a motor's endbell. Usually both are done with slightly larger rectangular brass plates.
 
The Russkit 23 (red label) is an improvement over the Russkit 22 (black label). In addition to the brush tube heat sinks, the 23 has a hotter wind on the armature & stronger magnets. You can still buy new 22s but finding a good running 23 can be difficult.

Looks like it would be a space frame bracket but it’s the same diameter as the motor to where you can’t pass the tubes through. unless it’s meant for a 13D or something. thanks for motor info hoping it goes better than the 22 I don’t have any other ebd 16d’s to work with.

[Bill from NH]

That was my thought at first, but I think all 13Ds are can-drive & used a "C" clip. I'll have to check that out.

 

The Can Spotters Guide on here doesn't show any endbell-drive 13Ds. Someone will come along who knows its origin. Maybe this is someone's intermate bulkhead. Both Pactra & Russkit had their own.

[old & gray]

My guess is it was an end bell plate for a can drive motor. The bracket would be attached to the can with a C clip and the motor would be a structural part of the chassis, A chassis like that would fit well in a early sixties F1.

[Mad Mark]

So typical bad luck with the 16d motors. I didnt get to test the russkit 23 as it instantly spun the press on pinion. i brought some back up pieced together motors that I water broke in and they where all super slow too for whatever reason. the one was a Hong Kong motor that I got to go semi decent after reversing the direction but still really slow. the good news is that the car handles really good with lower profile tires and front wheels. At home i installed a Johnson motor out of a Riggen 1/32 car that should go pretty good but at this rate Im sure it will be slow too! Haha.

[Mad Mark]

And just for fun all my best handling vintage cars together. bottom left is a vintage chassis I didnt build.


oh yeah gotta sneak this in.

[Carter]

That Dodge wheelie truck is badass


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[Mad Mark]

Latest build. This one went pretty fast. Very basic and simple. used a prebuilt vintage drop arm so the guide height is a little off and the front of the chassis is a little higher than Id like but if I put a Riggen low pro guide it will fix it.

Appropriate Christmas colors hehe

Mostly piano wire. ran out of brass..

[Mad Mark]

Think this is a champion guide? forgot I had it but much more low profile. i like these front wheels better too. heres a topside shot. only thing special is the down stop/leadwire guide tube.

[Bill from NH]

It might be a Champion guide. I had some in the late '60s. Champion sold white guides like this with a 1/8" & a 3/16" post.

 

I found a couple of mine, it's definitely a Champion guide.

[Mad Mark]

Detailed old body and added interior to make it race legal.

[Mad Mark]

Doesnt handle super great does the wheel hop entering turns which is pretty annoying. swapped front and rear wheels to get lowest ride height possible. Going to try these slightly narrower and less grippy larger wheels rears next. Added roll bar and mirror cause why not. kinda fun taking a junk body and dressing it up.

[Mad Mark]

So got it to handle better with wheel changes. still not the easiest to drive car. last thing Ill try is brass guide weight.

[Mad Mark]

Heres another. no idea how this will work. i made it out tig welding rod for mild steel. a few piano wire bits and some brass rod. wanted to do something a little wonky since its a thingie so did some goofy independent fronts.

no choice but to have the crappy crooked body mounts for existing holes in body. Doesnt really match rest of chassis. Oh well