74 replies to this topic

[rvec]

If I ever build a track one thing I will not do is have a turn just before going under a bridge, If the bridge is over a straight there is almost no chance of cars off under the bridge.

 

I know that dose not help much with your layout but it is something I feel strongly about so thought I would through it in.

 I agree.  My track, Electron has a turn after exiting the underpass

[MarkH]

I see in your post you were talking a table top track.

Are you open to a free standing track design?

What lane spacing are you wanting to use?

[MattD]

No issues with my overpass location.  

[Tomark]

I see in your post you were talking a table top track.
Are you open to a free standing track design?
What lane spacing are you wanting to use?

Since this is still at the design stage, everything is open for consideration, but the table top design seemed like an easier way to create a home track that people would like to race on. At the end of the day the goal is to have a track in St. Augustine that anyone can come to once or twice a week. Lane spacing (like every single part of this) ... there doesn’t seem to be a consensus on one way to do it. I was thinking for a 1/32 track , straightaways either 3.25” or 3.5” and then adding an inch for corners, so all spacing would be 4.25”-4.50”. Especially since it looks like I will have to use NON-magnetic braid, I was leaning to the wider lane spacing. What are your thoughts on spacing?

[Tomark]

I agree.  My track, Electron has a turn after exiting the underpass

So Rich, you don’t like the turn after the underpass? I actually like your track configuration from the pictures. There’s something about seeing the cars disappear into a tunnel and come out the other side that adds some personality to some tracks.

[Paul Menkens]

 straightaways either 3.25” or 3.5” and then adding an inch for corners, so all spacing would be 4.25”-4.50”. 

I would not go less then 4" even on the straights, that way, even if you don't plan to run 1/24 th cars now, you, or someone else, would have that option in the future.

[Pappy]

4" lane spacing, 6" on the outside gutter in the turns, at least 3" on the inside gutter of a turn, 4" is better when running 1/24th scale on tight turns.

[rvec]

So Rich, you don’t like the turn after the underpass? I actually like your track configuration from the pictures. There’s something about seeing the cars disappear into a tunnel and come out the other side that adds some personality to some tracks.

I like the turn after the underpass. I was commenting on a turn before going under a bridge is tricky because cars will deslot under the bridge making it hard to marshal. The guys enjoy my layout.  Turns are not too tight, yet it takes skill to get the most out the track.  Another advantage of the layout is that it doesn't take a lot of marshals.   

[MattD]

I did 4 inch spacing on my track for 1/24 cars.  After a month, I cut off the flatter end of the track and made a new section that had 5 inch spacing.   It raced much, much better.   Our tire width is 3 inches.  

[MarkH]

I see in your OP you want to run the track in both directions. Our club has 4 tracks that use the attached wiring diagram. With the flip of a single switch the power at the track reverses without changing the polarity at the controllers.

 

It is shown using a power supply and Lap Master scoring with a dead strip.

You can sub the power supply with a battery if desired. No capacitor needed with the battery most likely.

 

If you are using a light bridge the dead strip details can be ignored.

 

If you are using TrackMate consult them for guidance wiring the dead strip. Perhaps someone here will know if the dead strip on TrackMate is polarized. I don't think it is. 

Lap Master is polarized with 5VDC.

 

Attached is both a JPG and PDF

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•  Reversable-Power-Dead-Strip.pdf   389.04KB   29 downloads

[Pappy]

The easiest way to wire a track with a lane reverse switch is to use Slot Car Corner's driver panels. They have all types, this is the one with the 3 post hook-up, XLR and Lane Reverse. https://slotcarcorne...driver-stations

 

You can get them without the XLR or with just the XLR. 

[MattD]

Butch this won't work with Pro Motor controllers will it?    Would it only work with resistor types?

[Pappy]

I think it works with any controller. I use Difalco controllers.

[Tomark]

I did 4 inch spacing on my track for 1/24 cars.  After a month, I cut off the flatter end of the track and made a new section that had 5 inch spacing.   It raced much, much better.   Our tire width is 3 inches.

Matt, I forgot where I read a post where someone said they changed to 5” spacing and would never build a track with anything smaller again. Seeing how I have to use non-magnetic braid, this definitely has me second guessing my spacing. Being able to fish tail through a corner without knocking out another car sounds like a good time to me. NOW the math... 4 lanes, 5 inches between, 6 on the outside, 4 on the inside= 25”. That means I need a minimum of 8 1/2 feet across, for 4 lanes and that would be squeezing them together. Luckily, I have room to spare. I like the thought of wider spacing. What if I used the wider spacing for the corners ONLY? And went to 4” spacing for longer straights?

[MarkH]

The switch "Pappy" pointed to should work with any controller.

Looking at Slot Car Corners's diagram It switches polarity after the black post as does the diagram I posted.

Slot Car Corner did an excellent write up on how to install their switch. It does require each lane to be switched independently. Not a big deal as long as everyone is paying attention.

 

The other features within the diagram I provided:

-All the lanes will maintain the same direction based on the single switch.

-I show two LED indicator lamps to indicate the current direction of power.

-A Full and "Low" power switch for each lane. Great for IROC cars, the new driver to learn race craft or for the "Party Cars" when entertaining groups of friends. Low power uses a resistor.

- The dead strip polarity also changes with the direction. If you are using Lap Master the polarity MUST be switched when changing directions.

-Also there is a burnout pad with a momentary switch so people can clean their tires without slinging tire goo and cleaner fluid on the racing surface. i put one at each end of the drivers panel.

 

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Incase the OP is interested, here is a link to an abbreviated version of the build on my track. Feel free to use it as reference if you wish. I have a list of the "Good, Bad & Ugly" for the build. It was my first track so was learning along the way. There is a wealth on knowledge here at SB, just ask.

A more in depth step X step version of my build can be seen here. Before I found SB.

OR, from one of the best, check out this topic.

 

 

 

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[MattD]

Mark it was probably my post about 5 inch spacing.    If running 1/24 cars I would do 5 inch from now on.   It will require and extra 3-4 inches of width for a 4 lane track.  You can go 4 inches, but that is pretty tight when cars run side by side a lot.    A lot depends on how good your drivers are.    

 

Magnetic braid would not be necessary if you are running 1/24.   If you want to run 1/32, the 5 inch spacing  would be too much.  I liken 1/32 cars on a big track to looking like bugs crawling on the floor.   If 1/32 is your main scale, I would stick to 3 1/2 or maybe 4 spacing to keep things in scale. .

 

I

[Brian Czeiner]

When you are considering your lane spacing remember there will be fingers involved when putting a car back on. As a corner marshal, I don't always look up to see what is coming. I'm just trying to get the car back on as quickly as possible. I would go 4 1/4 minimum. More if you have the space. The elliptical routing can help with creating wider lanes in the corners then come back to normal in the straights. 

[MattD]

If the SCC panel can reverse direction for a Pro Motor controller is the switch just a double throw double pole switch.   I would think that would change the polarity going into the controller.    Am I missing something?    If that's true, then a dpdt switch from the power supply out would do the same thing, right?

[MarkH]

It is easier to see what is happening with SCC's diagram below, Link.

 

SCC has the switch after the controller.

 

Positive out of the white post through the trigger/wiper out to the black post.

When the switch, on the far side of this picture, is to the our left the contacts in the middle and to the right are made.

Power flows from the post to the right side of the track. Black to Black - Red to Red Lane connections

 

With the switch thrown to our right the contacts in the middle and the left are made. The power flows across the switch to the opposite pole and then flows down the red wire. Red flows down the black wire. Black to Red - Red to Black lane connections

The cross jumpers of red and black reverse the polarity.

 

Reversing before the controller, ie: after the power supply and before the controller, will reverse the polarity and not play nice with some electronic controllers. Not sure which controllers would be effected.

 

If I have this wrong, someone please correct me.

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[Vay Jonynas]

I am also making it reversible, so it will be 2 tracks in one.

 

I really like your reversible idea, but like just about everyone else I hate your automatic track call idea when anyone de-slots.

 

[MattD]

That makes it clear and if I could have followed that schematic earlier I would have  got it.    Much easier to understand, you are just switching the track feeds.  That would be pretty easy to wire into drivers stations.   thanks

[Tomark]

 
I really like your reversible idea, but like just about everyone else I hate your automatic track call idea when anyone de-slots.
 

[Tomark]

I think a good case for allowing continuous racing with track marshals has been made, and Im learning track design can be important in keeping cars on the track too.

[Tomark]

When you are considering your lane spacing remember there will be fingers involved when putting a car back on. As a corner marshal, I don't always look up to see what is coming. I'm just trying to get the car back on as quickly as possible. I would go 4 1/4 minimum. More if you have the space. The elliptical routing can help with creating wider lanes in the corners then come back to normal in the straights. 

[Tomark]

Im definitely trying to find more information on this elliptical routing. There are lots of links for elliptical router jigs, but theyre all older and dead ends. To me, it looks like 2 wheels guiding the router around the outside corners, to cut the outside lane, then I would use that slot for the other 3 lanes.