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1/24 brass and wire chassis help


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#26 Mark Onofri

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Posted 07 March 2022 - 10:56 PM

I've found that 95/5 with a soldering iron (mine is 100w) is a exercise in futility. It doesn't flow well and, the best way to describe it is
"gummy".




#27 Bill from NH

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Posted 07 March 2022 - 11:07 PM

Use a micro-torch for more heat. 


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#28 team burrito

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Posted 08 March 2022 - 09:21 PM

Use a micro-torch for more heat. 

and a ceramic tile so you don't burn a hole in your bench.


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#29 Mark Onofri

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Posted 09 March 2022 - 02:11 PM

Oxy acetylene ? LoL.
Back to the motors?
One thing that I found is that they are susceptible to heat.
Whether it is soldering the positive and negative leads or ,soldering on the pinion or especially soldering it to your chassis.

#30 Bill from NH

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Posted 09 March 2022 - 05:29 PM

You gotta be quick with a soldering iron around a FK. Pre-tinning helps.


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#31 Isaac S.

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Posted 09 March 2022 - 05:33 PM

For sure. Tin the motor first.
Isaac Santonastaso

#32 Mark Onofri

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Posted 09 March 2022 - 08:03 PM

So I take it that match solder is not a option? 😆 Remember that joke of a product? Although,I believe it was a standard for Cobra chassis kits!
Are we off track yet?

#33 Bill from NH

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Posted 09 March 2022 - 08:18 PM

Some motors are glued in using a hot glue gun.


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#34 Mark Onofri

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Posted 10 March 2022 - 01:55 PM

A glue gun? Why not Velcro?
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#35 mreibman

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Posted 10 March 2022 - 01:58 PM

Mreibman, did you mean that the axel tube looked as if it had been chewed on by crocodiles?

I was going to cook alligator for dinner, but all I had was a croc pot.

 

 

In all seriousness, I think the tube looked ok, but the stuff holding the tube looked like a slot car nightmare.


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#36 Mark Onofri

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Posted 10 March 2022 - 02:57 PM

I've got a few pics to post, stay tuned!

#37 Mark Onofri

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Posted 10 March 2022 - 02:58 PM

No Billing, not of the Hindenburg.

#38 Mark Onofri

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Posted 10 March 2022 - 02:58 PM

Stupid phone, susposta be Billnh

#39 Mark Onofri

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Posted 10 March 2022 - 03:13 PM

This is what became of the parts.

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#40 Mark Onofri

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Posted 10 March 2022 - 03:16 PM

It's not pretty because it was made to race and needed fine tuning.

#41 Mark Onofri

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Posted 10 March 2022 - 03:43 PM

This is a recent purchase. It came with a G-27 C-can. Whether or not it's original ,IDN.

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#42 Mark Onofri

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Posted 10 March 2022 - 03:47 PM

Another variant. RJR

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#43 Mark Onofri

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Posted 10 March 2022 - 03:52 PM

Here's one I built about 4-6 weeks before Parma.

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#44 Mark Onofri

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Posted 10 March 2022 - 03:56 PM

1990 Parma. 1/8 out of square.
I ran it on a hill climb. It failed miserablely. The opposition was sending the arms out after every race. I quit for 10 years.

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#45 Mark Onofri

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Posted 10 March 2022 - 03:57 PM

Oh, with a Mura 12-x

#46 Mark Onofri

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Posted 10 March 2022 - 04:03 PM

Last (I think) but not least, a Koford. A friend gave me this new. Ran it on a hill climb @ Rednecks in Fulton N.Y. Home of the tooth brush. Had it been invented anywhere else, it would be a teeth brush. Once again x12. It was a dream to drive.

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#47 Mark Onofri

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Posted 10 March 2022 - 04:06 PM

BillNH, can you please read the arm tag on #41? and verify that it's a G-27?

#48 Mark Onofri

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Posted 10 March 2022 - 04:21 PM

Ummm, the post about the motors is in the wrong thread.

#49 Bill from NH

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Posted 10 March 2022 - 04:31 PM

If I could find a tag, I might be able to read it too, Quite a collection of wing chassis. All could probably be put back into racing shape without a whole lot of effort. What class did you build that first inline chassis for?  Has it ever seen any track time? I remember that last Koford chassis. I never had one but know they were heavy.. I don't know the quality of the  brass Koford used, but I've seen several chassis like yours with the guide tongue snapped off.


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#50 Jairus

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Posted 10 March 2022 - 04:44 PM

Well, seems this thread went off the rails... :rolleyes:


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