17 replies to this topic

[Mad Mark]

So I snatched these up quick BIN. from the Bay Area. These look like scratchbuilt cars and not kit chassis. I'm not super familiar with the later anglewinder period but these look like pretty early ones.
 
Any sorta ID is appreciated I know the green motor is a Mura Grp 20 or something of the sort.

[Mad Mark]

Also any tips to get disintegrated foam off armatures would be helpful too. looks like quite a few fancy arms in the lot covered in melted foam.

[Bill from NH]

I agree all three are early scratchbuilds from their 16D or A-can motors. I don't have any constructors names. I'm guessing the top right chassis also had pans at some point. The 1-2-1 rail spacing was usually used on sports car chassis rather than on open-wheeled ones. Not a sure way to de-foam armatures but you could try spinning them in a Dremel or battery-powered drill & using a fine grit sandpaper. I have a set of drafting tools covered with foam, my old arms use to get a wad of toilet paper in each end of the arm tube.

 

That bottom chassis of yours is nicely built & looks strong.

[Mad Mark]

I agree all three are early scratchbuilds from their 16D or A-can motors. I don't have any constructors names. I'm guessing the top right chassis also had pans at some point. The 1-2-1 rail spacing was usually used on sports car chassis rather than on open-wheeled ones. Not a sure way to de-foam armatures but you could try spinning them in a Dremel or battery-powered drill & using a fine grit sandpaper. I have a set of drafting tools covered with foam, my old arms use to get a wad of toilet paper in each end of the arm tube.
 
That bottom chassis of yours is nicely built & looks strong.

 

Thanks I was trying to determine from the pics if top right chassis had missing pans or not hard to tell. Luckily I purchased a comm lathe not long ago so that will help with cleaning the arms I’m sure.

[Mad Mark]

Encrusted arms:

More chassis bottom looks like hand cut non production pans

[Paul Menkens]

Maybe an ultrasonic cleaner would get rid of the foam

[JimR]

Soak them in acetone? No?

[Bill from NH]

Maybe an ultrasonic cleaner would get rid of the foam

 

I'll have to try that on my drafting tools Paul.

 

The comms are used a bit but none look worn out. They all should cut fine. You can cut them dry or use a cutting fluid, even a black Sharpie works.

[Mad Mark]

I'll have to try that on my drafting tools Paul.
 
The comms are used a bit but none look worn out. They all should cut fine. You can cut them dry or use a cutting fluid, even a black Sharpie works.

 

I seemed to have pretty good luck with just a sharpie and carbide bit.

[Martin]

Work works for me Mark is those foam backed sanding sticks. They come in an assortment of grits.

This way I can clean a third at a time by hand without damage. 

I would think if you do it while the arm is spinning you will hit the leading edge hard and tend to round those off. Your mileage may vary of course 

 

This above is the way I clean the steel laminations NOT the com. you knew that.

[Bill from NH]

A carbide bit cuts a little rougher than a diamond but that's not a problem. Once your brushes get broken-in they are what determines the comm surface. I've heard of people cutting a comm with a diamond bit, then scuffing it up with fine steel wool to speed up their brushes breaking-in. I don't know why, but Sharpies do work. It also shows you an area that's been cut as well as any area that remains to be cut,

[John Luongo]

as with any armature cutting/truing, remember to undercut the "mica" insulation between the com surfaces otherwise the brushes will "bounce" and arc. creating more heat at the com.

[Bill Breck]

That's a nice haul of vintage chassis and armatures.

 

Maybe cut off as much foam you can by hand with a hobby knife, spin them in a Dremel with an abrasive pad, and then use some kind of solvent to finish up? 

[Mad Mark]

I’m thinking they will need some sort of solvent bath when the large chunks are removed. i know that old foam turns to plastic about when it breaks down. guess we’ll see when I actually have the stuff.

[Bill from NH]

Some solvents may react with the old epoxies depending upon the materials used for both.. Ultrasonic cleaning may effect some of the old epoxies too.

[Mad Mark]

So one of the chassis is signed by Jim Aguirre with team Mura on the drop arm

[Martin]

So one of the chassis is signed by Jim Aguirre with team Mura on the drop arm

That's really exciting Mark. Congrates.

You show me yours and I will show you mine   Mine is a signed Russ Aguirre car.

I had the pleasure of meeting them both.

[Bill from NH]

This chassis might be an early Aguirre anglewinder too.