14 replies to this topic

[Mark Onofri]

I am by far not 100% proficient at this. No matter what body I tried, the guide flag hits the front grill/body.
The two chassis I tried have a ~15/16" and 7/8"guide lead. Aside from shortening this dimension, a Slick7 guide worked. Without the weighted guide flag, the handling disappeared.

 

The attached photo is where it wants to be, however, it's not in the preset wheel marking. Can this be changed?

 

[slotcarone]

Most coupe bodies do not have wheel well markings on them. I have never seen any issue mounting these bodies. What body is that?

[Jay Guard]

Mark:

 

If you have already painted the body don't cutout any of the wheel wells until AFTER you have mounted the body.  Then use a strong light on the other side of the body and mark where you will have to cut to clear the wheels.  Using this method I make dots at the front, top and rear of each tire location and then use a circle template to make accurate circles exactly where I want to cut, usually a bit "bigger" than the dots I made.  If you use a small curved pair of fingernail scissors you can follow the lines easily.  If the cut-out is a bit ragged or still too close to the tires in a few places just touch it up with a drum sander in your Dremel.

 

Note that there are some bodies, mostly much older ones, that have such short noses that a chassis with a long guide lead will effectively drive the front wheels very far rearward in the wheel wells and therefore you may not be able to use that chassis with that body.  Kinda rare but it can happen with some really old bodies.

[blue&orange]

My simple method:

1)  Mount clear body trimmed on cut line using your preferred method

2)  Remove and paint.  When dry, add body bracing around mounting holes.

3)  Remount on chassis including rear wheels

4)  Use curved scissors as mentioned by Jay to trim around all four wheels. Start small, then enlarge. Flex body side-to-side to make sure you have no rubs.

5)  Trim out rear of body and mount spoiler.

[Mark Onofri]

Thanks guys, I was thinking that all bodies had to conform to the same rules as stock car bodies. More proof that I should ask instead of thinking.

[Jay Guard]

Mark:  The IRRA Stockcar rules actually allow the guide to show a bit out from under the front bumper/spoiler.  This is due to the short nose on many of the Stockcar bodies.  It's also part of the reason we only allow a .750" guide lead on the Stockers, helps keep the guide under most bodies.

[Bill from NH]

Mark, are you building for the next NERR race at Speedy's?

[Mark Onofri]

Billnh,I missed it screwing around trying to mount this body at the latest minute.
Slotcarone, I thought I'd try a Porsche 917 instead of my old favorite Ferrari p4,yet another example of why I should just go with instinct. I'll post it later.
Jay,I've used Slick7 guides for longer than I'd like to admit. It came as a surprise to me that one wouldn't work in this situation. I've been toying with the idea of adding tungsten to one which leads to another question, would it be legal?
Ps: remember when Slick7 sold a lightweight version? How times have changed!

[Bill from NH]

The lightweight guides were intended for wing car qualifying. At one time, Slick 7 was big into wing car racing with steel chassis & other items, but those days are long gone. I think they sold their chassis cutting machinery before moving to Texas.

 

Speedy will probably have another NERR race in the fall. The classes being run then may be different than those which were just run there.

[Mark Onofri]

Didn't even dawn on me until just now. Jay, what are the odds on me using that number? I actually copied the design from a 70's A/FX Porsche.

Attached Images

• 

[Bill from NH]

Nice paint Mark!  

[shneef]

That body while nicely painted is not IRRA approved.

[Pablo]

The OP never said it was IRRA legal and notice he posted it under "Retro Racing" - not the IRRA Racing sub-forum.

[Mark Onofri]

It was sold to me under the impression that it is NERRA legal. If it isn't, it's really irrelevant at this point. Sooner or later...more likely later, I'll adjust a basic drop arm chassis to fit it.

[shneef]

Both Bill from NH and you had mentioned NERR at Speedies so I assumed you were preparing it for that race. Apologies!