13 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

Anybody know what chassis was intended to fit the JK Go Kart body (B1B/JK6094B)?

I've tried the C11, C21, C25, C43 and the Champion TFlex.

Some are close and could be made to work with some modifications, but nothing I've found fits right.

 

Sure I could scratchbuild one, but there would be nobody to race with 

 

 

[Gene/ZR1]

 

 

[Bill from NH]

Pablo, do you have any of the original JK Cheetahs or Scorpions to try? There was two different wheelbases for the 4" Cheetah & the Scorpion 2 & 3 could be adjusted long & short. I never had any go-kart bodies but I think there were available before the later JK Cheetahs were available.

[Pablo]

Gene I see you shoehorned a 3 piece C11 in; I've done that before.

But the rear of the pans and the flag stick way outside.

 

I don't have any of those old chassis, Bill. 

If I can find out which one the car was actually designed for I can find one (I hope).

[Jaeger Team]

Paul I asked your question to AI:
Yes excellent question, and you're not alone in the confusion!

The **JK Go Kart body (B1B / JK6094B)** was originally designed to fit the **JK C15 chassis**.

The **C15** is a relatively compact, inline motor, brass chassis that JK produced specifically for short-wheelbase, go-kartstyle bodies. It features a narrow guide lead and a tight wheelbase (typically around 3.5" / 89mm), which matches the proportions of the Go Kart shell much better than the chassis youve tried.

### Why the others dont quite work:
- **C11**: Slightly longer wheelbase and wider guide lead can be modified but not ideal.
- **C21 / C25**: These are pod-style chassis with longer wheelbases and rear motor configurations mismatched for the Go Karts compact rear.
- **C43**: A modern, wider inline chassis meant for larger bodies (like F1 or LMP), so its too wide and long.
- **Champion T-Flex**: While adaptable, its designed for US-style bodies and has a different guide spacing and pod geometry.

### Key specs of the C15:
- **Wheelbase**: ~89 mm (3.5")
- **Motor**: Inline Mabuchi FT16D or equivalent
- **Guide lead**: Narrow (~1516 mm)
- **Material**: Brass (like most classic JK chassis)

If you cant find an original C15 (theyre somewhat rare today), a close modern alternative is the **JK C10B** (a slightly updated C10), though you may need to trim the front slightly. Some racers also successfully adapt the **C7** with careful modification, but againthe C15 is the *correct* match.

You might check with long-time JK dealers like **JK Raceway**, **Slot Car Corner**, or vintage slot forums (e.g., SlotForum or Slotblog) occasionally NOS C15s surface in classifieds.

🙂👋

[Pablo]

Thanks Maurizio, that is the info I needed. 

 

JK shows no C15, or 10B. or 7. Neither does Slot Car Corner.

 

 I may just abandon the idea of a race class and make it a scratchbuilt drag car 

[Jaeger Team]

This is a car posted a long time ago by the late master Jairus, it definitely has a production chassis but you can't tell which one from what you see...

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[Gene/ZR1]

Gene I see you shoehorned a 3 piece C11 in; I've done that before.

But the rear of the pans and the flag stick way outside.

 

I don't have any of those old chassis, Bill. 

If I can find out which one the car was actually designed for I can find one (I hope).

 

Paul

Not my cars, but I remember this photo of the go kart.

good luck with your project.

[rmjlmartin]

I certainly could be wrong, but from what I can see of the chassis on Jairus's car, it looks like a Turbo Flex to me. It obviously doesn't fit perfectly, and he's cut the body to fit around the sides of the pan, as well as opened up the back, probably at least partly for clearance, but that's what it looks like. The chassis ears and the front corner of the pan look right, and the body pins are in about the right places. I don't have a Kart body on hand to compare to, though.

 

Would a JK wide Indy chassis fit?

[Pablo]

I think you are right, Jason, it's probably a Tflex and it can be made to "work" but not "fit".

I've done it before.

 

The first one I made was scratchbuilt with an anglewinder built X12 motor.

It was so fast nobody except Bud Greene and John Clow wanted to race with us.

 

So we went to "any stamped steel chassis, any sealed FK motor" and the attendance went way up.

I don't want to go down that road again with chassis that don't fit.

[Bill from NH]

I would like to see a photo of the JK C15 chassis. I've never heard of it before. When I did searches on Slotblog. the JK website, & an online search with Bing, I got no results. When I did a search with AI, all I got were several anglewinder chassis photos.

[Bill Seitz]

The AI response indicating a 3.5" wheelbase is way off the mark. I have the kart body (mounted on custom chassis), and it's the typical 3-7/8" wheelbase that many of the wire and brass chassis were built to (and considered 4"). The body doesn't have a sufficient nose to fit in a winged nose chassis which covers most of the chassis since the mid-80's. I don't know the origin year of the kart body, but there are 2 possible wingless nose production chassis: Parma Flexi-1 and whatever Parma called the wire and brass chassis before the Monorail. The wire and brass anglewinder chassis I'm thinking of uses a 1.25" wide brass drop arm with plumber pans attached to it, a front axle tube for 3/32 axle, and a rear axle tube for 1/8" axle (1/4" bearings). It was also sold by Champion and possibly other brands, and in the mid-80's was commonly used under the Champion hot rod bodies. Design-wise, it looked like something from the 70's. I've had a couple of these, but don't have one now.

[Pablo]

My intent was to start a new fun class. Since the correct chassis obviously isn't available any more, my search has ended.

I'll simply scratchbuild a drag car out of it. End of story 

 

Thanks everybody for your help   

[Tim Neja]

I've got one mounted on the old Champion 4" chassis.  Works great--it's the monthly winner at Foster's in the 4.0 breakout class. Fits pretty well on that old chassis--I think Roger at Mid America is making them again.

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