15 replies to this topic

[Joe Maxey]

Can someone walk me through installing a mush button on my Carsteen CS2 (2009) controller or post pics up so I can see how is done?

Thanks!

[Dominator]

Try reaching out to Felix Mueller. I have never seen a Carsteen with a mushroom button.

[Joe Maxey]

Try reaching out to Felix Mueller. I have never seen a Carsteen with a mushroom button.

Do you know how screen name here in Slotblog?

[Bill Seitz]

I think you want Steen Michaelsen, the maker of Carsteen controllers. His Slotblog name is smichslot.

[zipper]

Steen has severe health ptoblems: Carsteen informational message - The Controller Corner - Slotblog

[Joe Maxey]

Steen has severe health ptoblems: Carsteen informational message - The Controller Corner - Slotblog

Yeah I saw that post earlier. I was hoping someone else may have experimented with doing this already but it looks like maybe no one has yet. Maybe one day.

[rmjlmartin]

Joe, the normal method of installing a mush button it to install a momentary on push-button switch that's connected across the two terminals of the sensitivity pot. (Or maybe the "attack" pot on a Carsteen? The sensitivity is often called attack on European controllers.) When you push it, it shorts between the two terminals, effectively turning the sensitivity all the way down as long as you hold the button.

 

With the caveat that I've never seen a Carsteen controller in person, it should be pretty simple. If you can post some close-up pictures of both sides of the circuit board, I (or some of the other knowledgeable folks on here) should be able to tell you exactly where to connect it. You can mount the switch in your handle, wherever it's easy to push, as long as it clears the other components inside.

[Joe Maxey]

Joe, the normal method of installing a mush button it to install a momentary on push-button switch that's connected across the two terminals of the sensitivity pot. (Or maybe the "attack" pot on a Carsteen? The sensitivity is often called attack on European controllers.) When you push it, it shorts between the two terminals, effectively turning the sensitivity all the way down as long as you hold the button.
 
With the caveat that I've never seen a Carsteen controller in person, it should be pretty simple. If you can post some close-up pictures of both sides of the circuit board, I (or some of the other knowledgeable folks on here) should be able to tell you exactly where to connect it. You can mount the switch in your handle, wherever it's easy to push, as long as it clears the other components inside.

Thanks for the response. I'll get a couple pics up in the morning.

So if I understand correctly, the mush button when pressed turns the sensitivity/attack button to zero correct? If I already have the sensitivity/attack knobs set to "0" will it make a difference or just keep it at "0". Just trying to wrap my head around how it works. Thx!

[rmjlmartin]

So if I understand correctly, the mush button when pressed turns the sensitivity/attack button to zero correct? If I already have the sensitivity/attack knobs set to "0" will it make a difference or just keep it at "0". Just trying to wrap my head around how it works. Thx!

Yes, that is correct. A mush button, or at least what I believe is normally referred to as a mush button, simply momentarily gives you minimum sensitivity/attack. I believe the way most racers use it is for easier takeoff. For example, if you have a car that needs to start out at a lower sensitivity/attack setting than you'd want for normal driving, hold the mush button while you launch the car, then release it once you get moving.

 

And yes, the lower you have the sensitivity/attack set, the less difference it will make. Unless you wire up something to specifically do something different, it won't lower the sensitivity/attack lower than turning the knob to zero.

 

What were you hoping for/expecting it to do?

[Joe Maxey]

What were you hoping for/expecting it to do?

I was hoping a mush button would soften the acceleration even when the sensitivity/attack knobs was turned to zero. My wing car was popping on starts even when I had my sensitivity/attack knobs was set at zero. I will just use a little choke on the start(this is what I did to stop the popping) and then turn it off once I get going.

Thanks for the info!

[rmjlmartin]

You're welcome!

 

I'm sure what you want to do can be done, though, since I've never seen a Carsteen controller in person, I don't know exactly what might need to be done.

 

I looked up the owner's manual, though. Have you tried playing with the throttle profile switches?

[Joe Maxey]

Have you tried playing with the throttle profile switches?

Yes I figured those out the first time I used the controller. The lower the voltage by a small voltage point. Hopefully when I get home tonight I'll be able to Post up pictures. The controller will probably do what I want I just need to work with it more to figure it out.

[Bill Seitz]

I'm a retired electronics engineer knowledgeable of the basic principles used in most analog controllers. I'm not at all familiar with how Carsteen controllers are designed electrically, but believe they are an analog based design. As Jason has pointed out, the mush button typically just shunts the sensitivity/attack pot. There usually is also a fixed resistor in series with the pot that sets the pot's minimum voltage. If so, the 'mush' switch can also include shunting this fixed resistor along with the pot which would provide for a lower starting voltage than pot "0". How much lower depends on the value of this fixed resistor. There are some other possibilities to achieve a lower starting voltage by adding resistance into the control circuit (which the profile switches may do), but not knowing the specific Carsteen circuit prevents me from making further suggestions.

 

Steen Michaelsen has posted to Slotblog since he was reported as being ill and having some dementia. It does appear that Steen is still capable of message conversation and is interested in helping owners of his controllers. I'd still at least try messaging him and see if he replies. 

[munter]

Won't the choke knob soften the start?....... give it a twirl once you are on the move.

[Joe Maxey]

Won't the choke knob soften the start?....... give it a twirl once you are on the move.

This is what I've been doing but felt a push button would be easier for my brain to work with. I think I'm going to try and FTB(full throttle bypass) first. This way i can turn the choke up and then when the throttle hits full throttle it'll by pad the choke.

[Bill Seitz]

Choke with full throttle bypass works essentially same as "traction control" on some controllers. This pushes the throttle range down from the top end, so the last step to full throttle is bigger, but that can be tolerable. It does give a lower starting voltage as well as lowering the voltage applied across the trigger sweep. This is what provides "traction control".

 

Another factor in "nose popping" beside the starting voltage is the throttle response after the first band. I've found that in some controllers inductive feedback from the motor can cause the throttle to increase more rapidly than the resistor values in the throttle network suggest. The rapid throttle increase can further influence "nose popping" and controlling a car in low speed corners. A capacitor in parallel with the motor can compensate for this effect and restore the throttle progression to what was designed in. Doesn't work on all controllers, but can be quickly tried simply by installing a small capacitor between controller black and red. A value between 1 and 100 uF should be adequate. I've incorporated 10 uF capacitors into my personal-build controllers after discovering this.