36 replies to this topic

[Jaeger Team]

"A photograph found on the web about an "angle mini can-am made in 1968" recently sparked a discussion within our enthusiast group here in Palermo. Some hypothesize that the image might be a 'fake,' while others point out a historical inconsistency: if memory serves, although the model in question is dated 1968, the first examples did not actually hit the market until the end of that year for the Christmas retail campaign.

 

[Jaeger Team]

This debate gave birth to a 'what if' concept centered around the mythical Mini Can-Am produced in Italy by Mini Dream Car.

I envisioned this alternate-history model as a sidewinder chassis, with the electric motor functioning as a structural stress member. Furthermore, the use of a 3/32" axle seems entirely consistent with the technological shifts that were taking place in the American slot car racing scene starting in late 1969."

 

[Jaeger Team]

...this project already scares me because of how complicated and long it will be...
The first obvious thing to fix is ​​the distance between the rear axle and the guide...in the test configuration it is about 13 mm longer than the original...

[Larry Horner]

I love both minican sidewinders and motors as structural members so I'm down for the journey!

[Jaeger Team]

I'm experimenting with using a long armature shaft and a set of gears at each end of the motor, just to make sure the axis is parallel to the armature... (Rick Thigpen's way).

 

 

[Jaeger Team]

Now I'm wondering how the hell I'm going to mount the brush holders...

 

[Dave Crevie]

In 1968 our local track closed right after Christmas. No business to support it since skateboards had become so popular. I had a routed HO track with turns wide enough to handle 1/32nd cars, so I bought some 3/16ths wide copper tape that had been plated with German silver from the local radio shop. (they were big into HAM radio there. I don't know what they used that tape for) Anyway, I could sweat solder it over the model railroad rails I had used for the HO course. We decided to run Can-Am cars as a class, and built our own brass pan car chassis. One of our group worked for Arrem plastics, which did both injection molding and vacuum forming. Although some Can-Am bodies were available, we wanted the new MacLaren and TI-22 bodies. Art had an excellent moldmaker, and made molds for both of those cars, in 1/32nd scale, working only from photographs. He vac'ed them in .5mm clear plastic. (not Lexan) I have photos of that track somewhere. Maybe they will turn up as I clean out the house.

[DocSlotCar]

Italian made slot car......

[Jaeger Team]

Update: I've had to put the project on the back burner. I'm currently waiting on some 64-pitch Sonic spur gears from a few buddies so I can dial in the perfect gear ratio.

In the meantime, I raided the Mini Dream Car spares box -a true treasure trove of wonders and horrors - and took the opportunity to finally wrap up this "bulletproof" build. Its been sitting on the bench waiting for the right motor setup for ages...

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[Larry Horner]

Maurizio, if you can use 1/8" axles, here is a bit of trivia Mike Swiss turn me onto.  In the US, RC pinion gears are made for 1/8" motor shafts with 64P. That being the case, here is a link to an almost limitless number of spur gear options for you. I might add that I've used these gears myself and they are very durable and well made.

 

https://www.amainhob...-464046/p893730

[Bill from NH]

That page also has a 1/8" shaft reducer, but it doesn't indicate the internal diameter. 

[Jaeger Team]

That page also has a 1/8" shaft reducer, but it doesn't indicate the internal diameter.

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[Jaeger Team]

In the end, going through countless attempts and errors, Ive managed to get something here that at least looks well-aligned; now its time to work with the brush and buffer...

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[Jaeger Team]

...I roughly shortened the arm to achieve an acceptable distance between the rear axle and the guide pivot...

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[Jaeger Team]

I'm afraid it's going to require some surgical clearance...

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[Jaeger Team]

...first of all I'm going to change this hinge switching on a smaller diameter (inner actually is 2mm)

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[Jaeger Team]

That's comfy...

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[Martin]

Looking at your hinge tube, I am wondering why it does not go full width of the chassis? 

I must be missing something here.

[Jaeger Team]

Looking at your hinge tube, I am wondering why it does not go full width of the chassis? 
I must be missing something here.

The hinge tube was originally designed that way to leave the mounting screw hole for the endbell unobstructed; now that the geometry (hinge height) has changed, there would be room to drill the can lower down. Thanks for pointing that out, Martin

[Jaeger Team]

Shortening this small arm, which is inherently "scalene" due to the molding process, is no simple task...

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[Jaeger Team]

This is the armature I chose for this powertrain. IIRC, we used to use it in Parma setups for a production class (Flexi-1 chassis) back in the nineties here in Palermo.
I'm going to freshen up the commutator...

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[Bill from NH]

T-10s were Parma sealed motors in their Deathstar 16D setups & American-wound arms. I don't know who made the arms or what their wind was. I always suspected they were early RJR arms. Dom Luongo may know. The local raceway got some T-10s in the late 1990s or early 2000s. They ran fast. Once they were no longer available, the raceway switched that class to the Proslot Speed FX 16D.

 

Back in 2010, Ron Hershman said the T-10 was wound by Mura with 80T of 32 or 31 wire.

[Jaeger Team]

Heres the motor, all broken in... It was a real hassle setting the brush spring tension on this hidden brush, and I even had to shave down the brush hood itself just to get enough clearance. On top of that, being the clumsy oaf I am, I dropped the motor on the floor. The endbell, which is a 3D-printed repro, cracked so I had to jury-rig it back together as best I could. Anyway, this baby is pulling a 1.32 amp draw at 6 volts...

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[Jaeger Team]

...the final touch with the powerful Weller to relax and finely realign everything...

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[Jaeger Team]

The plastic pan has been shortened to fit the arm; additionally, the original hole was filled with baking soda and cyanoacrylate glue so I can lower it for a (near) perfect match. I have to be careful to drill slowly and by hand, because this 3D-printed material melts if you so much as look at it...

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