17 replies to this topic

[Jimbolina]

Wondering if anyone could help me identify this chassis. It seems to have some JK Products DNA involved, but I can’t seem to find anything on the internet to match.

 

Thanks.

 

[grooverunner]

JK Extender chassis.

[Jimbolina]

Thanks!

[Jimbolina]

The JK ‘extended’ chassis I found appears to have a long cutout aspect in the center section. Were these two variations on the same (model) theme?

 

[Bill from NH]

Yes, there were two versions of this JK 4.5" flexi. One with a slotted center, one with a solid center. These two chassis shown are the early version with the up-turned front ends for the guide lift. The later versions had a straight front with a coined area providing for the guide lift. The revised front design came out during the late '90s. I don't recall any differences in handling for the different front ends. I preferred the chassis with a slotted center because you could stick a screwdriver in it to remove most chassis twists or bends.

 

Locally, we ran those chassis on a trioval with stock car bodies. I would think they would work on hillclimbs and other tracks, too.

[Jimbolina]

Much appreciated information!

[Racer36]

These were the best 4.5 NASCAR chassis on the market in their day. Available in a heat treated and non heat treated version. It’s all I used in the late '90s. I’m pretty sure I still have mine somewhere 

[Dave Crevie]

I was club racing as well when these were being sold cheap. They made good hardbody oval chassis with the pans narrowed. Cut the body mounting flanges off so you can re-solder them farther in. If you have to cut through the bite bar loops, you can move the bite bar a little farther forward. Test fit the cut piece on top of the pans before soldering on. You will probably have to notch out where the bite bar is to clear it. Plus you will have to shorten the bite bar to fit between the new side positions. Be sure to measure how narrow the pan needs to be narrowed before cutting, and leave enough material on the cut sides to solder them back on top of the pan. You will find this method gives you a little more height for the body pins so you have more meat along the sides of the body.  

 

[Bill from NH]

We never had local hardbody racing until the early 2000s with FCRs. I recall buying a couple 1/25 AMT kits for $5 each at a discount store. I would think that today's model kit prices would have practically killed off hardbody racing. I'm aware It still goes on with the D3 group in California and some of the Northwest club/home groups. Most of them use scratchbuilt brass chassis rather than a modified flexi.

 

There may still tracks that run 1/24 or 1/25 hardbody classes, but they get little or no coverage online or in publications. Everything today is Retro.

[Dave Crevie]

There is an annual toy and model swap meet in my area. The vendors there all have incomplete kits for sale for a couple bucks. Clubs in this area are pretty well involved in hardbody, 1/25, 1/24, and 1/32. Chicagoland had a good hardbody racing program for a while. Had a lot of fun.

[Jimbolina]

Did JK ever make this chassis with this exact pattern in the shorter, 4” option?

[slotcarone]

Pretty sure the 4 inch stainless version is what we used for rental cars. It looked just like it.

[Jimbolina]

I have searched the internet for a theoretical 4” version of this chassis to no avail. Mike, I took your mention of a rental version, and nothing comes up.

 

It is interesting the front area that protects the wheels is very similar to the JK Scorpion chassis design, but that’s about the closest I can come up with.

 

I love how much sheet metal was retained on this 4.5” chassis, and was hoping a shorter version was produced at one time.

[slotcarone]

Jim, it was not specifically a rental chassis. They were bulletproof as rental cars on the King track with wing bodies and pretty slow motors.

[Jimbolina]

I hear ya.

 

Thanks, Mike.

[Dominator]

The Scorpion was a similar design. This pic is thr original design showing the 4" and 4.5" version. The third version was made from stainless steel and had the front wings removed.

[Mark Onofri]

JK added the centre cut-out as a after thought on several chassis. I have (I had) a F1 with and without the cut-out.

[Bill from NH]

The solid JK F1 pan fit their original Cheetah flexi chassis. I'm not familiar with the one with the cut-out.