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First test! What is going on?


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#51 Old pink can guy

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 06:50 PM

Baxter. Do you have the Steube Videos? If so study them. If not contact Keith Tanaka and order one. Very well done by Keith and Mike. Wish we had that in the old days. It is a two disc set. Watch the video and not the slide show. It will give you all you need and the rest you can ask here. So far I have been treated great by all my heros. Do not be shy pm them. Tony P. is very nice about getting back to you along with all the other people here. No stupid questions only those afraid to ask the masters! Good luck.Ken.
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#52 Neuspeed

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 06:52 PM

I don't think he meant that at all Mark he was just trying to get you up to speed as to where we are at in the blog. As I mention before I have to wait till you come down again to have you help me set it up. In the mean time I had one built so that I can start racing and was looking for help to set this one up. As you can see I needed a great deal of help, and I thank all those who are so willing to take the time to help.
Baxter Walton

#53 Mark Wampler

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 06:56 PM

Ken is right, the Steube DVD is excellent reference material for the basics. If you're really into building yourself.

BTW there is no prob with using a 9T pinion on that King Cobra with the Falcons. 100-105 gr car is a good place to start. The one I gave you is heavier and better suited for where I race.
Mark Wampler
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#54 Old pink can guy

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 07:05 PM

Rob all I know is Nesta had a nice ride for the Check point Cup! Two as a matter of Fact. Bouth Buildt by you. Just as Warmack got them over to the control panel for Nesta to try they were closing Tec so Brian said run this one. I was their talking to Nesta. Sad Part for me only had a mill a second to see you beautiful chassis up close. Reguards Ken.
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#55 Neuspeed

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 07:05 PM

Well tomorrow I am calling in Sick, got slotcar fever ;) Anyway I will let all know how it goes
Baxter Walton

#56 Old pink can guy

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 07:20 PM

Thanks Mark! Tell that to the love of my Life. 2nd Week of May will be 30 years. Elisabeth is French. My own personal Cone head. She consumes mass quanities of food and never goes above 103lbs. All this time. I got lucky you should see her ride a sport bike in the canyous. She is feared by men. I love it I taught her. Baxter sorry for the drift.
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#57 John Streisguth

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 07:21 PM

So the front tires should touch the track? If so what should I do to make them hard.


You need to add or remove shims from between the chassis and guide flag, depending on the depth the track braid is recessed below the surface of the track. A lot of people pre-set their chassis using a set-up block with different recesses cut in them, if they know ahead of time the depth (if you always race at the same track, it's probably a one-time thing. I race in the Retro-East series where we have about 6 different tracks so many times we have to change this).
A quick and dirty way to check this is to put the chassis on the track without the body, then press down on the guide flag. The rear tires just just barely lift up. If the front tires are off the track surface, you need to remove shims. If the wheels lift quite a lot, add shims. Make sure you do this on a section of the track that is as flat as possible.
"Whatever..."

#58 Neuspeed

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 08:47 PM

One more question before you guys go to bed, How the heck do you get the guide horizontal to the chassis when mounting and screwing it on? When I look at the front one side is lower then the other side and I'm sure will cause the braids to wear bad,and affect the handling of the car a great deal. So what's the secret?
Baxter Walton

#59 Pablo

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 09:06 PM

http://www.slotcarta...ggerman-Designs

Paul Wolcott


#60 Neuspeed

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 09:13 PM

http://www.slotcarta...ggerman-Designs


Thats a nice tool I am going to pick one up, But my problem is when I put the guide nut on it goes on crooked.
Baxter Walton

#61 Pablo

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 09:26 PM

Cahoza guide threader. Scott at PCH Parts express in Oxnard, CA should be able to help you.

What a coincidence ! You live in Oxnard, CA !! What a lucky guy !! :D

Paul Wolcott


#62 Mopar Rob

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 09:35 PM

Thats a nice tool I am going to pick one up, But my problem is when I put the guide nut on it goes on crooked.


Do you have a guide flag threader? If not, buy 3-4 guide flags at one time and have a friend cut the threads for you. I know the flags are usually partially threaded from the manufacturer, but the hand held threader will chase the threads and insure they are straight. Since I have a couple threaders, I usually by mine un-threaded and prefer to do it myself. I also know if I didn't have a threader, my local track will thread them for their cutomers if needed.

Rob Hanson

Shops at Mid-America Raceway and uses R-Geo Products


Rob was right!


#63 Mopar Rob

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 09:40 PM

Cahoza guide threader. Scott at PCH Parts express in Oxnard, CA should be able to help you.

What a coincidence ! You live in Oxnard, CA !! What a lucky guy !! :D



The Cahoza was the first threader I ever purchased and I still have it. I prefer to use my GT-1 threader. I know some say they like their Spray by Mac threaders. Baxter can probably do a search and read more than he ever wanted to about threaders and which ones are the best :laugh2:

Rob Hanson

Shops at Mid-America Raceway and uses R-Geo Products


Rob was right!


#64 Neuspeed

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 09:48 PM

Thanks for the info, Yes I am 5min from the track lucky me or should I say broke me :)
Baxter Walton

#65 68Caddy

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 09:53 PM

Baxter just ask a lot of questions its all good and you will get there. ;)
Your guide goes on crooked and I become a rider more then I want to? :laugh2: You got some great guys here to help ya out! ;)
Hang in there and you will get the answers.



Nesta
- Gabriel
Nesta Szabo

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Pistol Pete you will always be in my memory.

#66 Neuspeed

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 09:57 PM

I will get there and when I do I'm a coming to BP to put the spank down ;)
Baxter Walton

#67 Neuspeed

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 10:39 PM

Working on the next chassis. don't have the rear tires yet, getting those on my day off tomorrow.
Is these tires good for the rear?

Alpha Piranha Big Hub Chemically Treated 3/32 x .13/16 - AL-6138T

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Baxter Walton

#68 Neuspeed

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Posted 14 February 2011 - 03:11 PM

I'm at the track just did a 4.8 what great help I got from you guys! Now -m just a few tenths off, I just test my first laps geared at 9/27 where to go from here 8/27 or 9/28?
Baxter Walton

#69 John Streisguth

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Posted 14 February 2011 - 03:41 PM

By all means try different gear ratios. You need to find out what works best for your specific situation. You may also want to try a different tire compound, or a different body (one with more downforace than the Ferarri body you had pictured)

Great to hear you're making progress!
"Whatever..."

#70 Neuspeed

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Posted 14 February 2011 - 06:27 PM

Thanks guys for all the help! Now I'm racing! Tried a 9/28 went down to 4.76 Have tried a 9/28 yet. I am going to play around with tires add bearings,and change the body. Car handles awesome! One thing That I notice, I bought a Lola body but it was too narrow, are Can-Am Chassis not the same as D-3?
Baxter Walton

#71 Ron Hershman

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Posted 15 February 2011 - 01:24 AM

Can-Am cars/chassis can be no wider than 3 1/8"

#72 tonyp

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Posted 15 February 2011 - 10:17 AM

The lola body is a bit narrow over front tires but should fit chassis ok.

Anthony 'Tonyp' Przybylowicz

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#73 Neuspeed

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Posted 15 February 2011 - 10:24 AM

OK
Baxter Walton

#74 Rapid Rick

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Posted 15 February 2011 - 10:39 AM

This may be an old post...but maybe it can help others as I have learned. To start I have learned on my Can-Am Retro that weight is important and being near, what I call Magic, 100 Grams made a big differance in my car.

Next try to mount the hardest tire in your box FIRST. Soft tires bit too much and take much more power to turn.

Then...I noticed the F1 car in the picture had JK Plastic Hubs. Those wheels will have too much glue at times and vibrate. Try the Aluminum Hub or whatever that is not plastic. Listen and fel your car when you run it on a power supply. Is it vibrating? Is it noisy?

Parma gears are all we have and they are great. But the more worn in they are the better. At a race you will see the top guys with 10 to 20 gears in tow. Find the quit gear and the horspower will follow. Vibration kills a Falcons speed. Start with the 8 tooth and 28 axle.

When I ran my first Retro race I qualified over 1.3 seconds off the pole. I was totally frustrated. With a lot of learning...reading -watching - listening I qualified straight to the B-Main last race only 3-10ths.

Hope this helps....anyone..

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#75 Neuspeed

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Posted 15 February 2011 - 11:19 AM

Thanks for the input, those are v rims just made them black, i tried wonders but not good for that track at the time of testing too dirty. i am working on the gears, I took the heat to them, and like you said i will also buy a few more to be able to choose the best one. thanks
Baxter Walton





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