1442 replies to this topic

[DirtyHairy]

I just noticed the .050" rule. I was looking at my car on a tech block and noticed it has a huge lean to the rear because I had to shim the guide flag up to get the front wheels off the track.

Has there been discussion on lowering the front clearance on those two classes?

Any ideas on how to get my car level without making it illegal?

The track I race on the most has a .015" recess in the braid so that takes a little of the lean out and I have my wheels down to the minimun size so what else can I do?

[Noose]

There is no discussion on lowering the clearance on these classes.

It sounds like you did not set the guide right when making the frame or perhaps had the wrong jig wheels up front. Is the lean there when the car is just on its wheels on the block? If that is the case, you need to fix that by dropping the front end.

[DirtyHairy]

No, the lean was when it was on the flag, but you're right I set the front end too high. I think my problem was putting the nosepiece on top of the center section. I'm going to use thinner brass for the center section, hopefully this levels things out.

Thanks for the help!!

[John Streisguth]

You are aware that for Can-Am and F1 the front clearance is 0.015", right? Keep in mind you usually want the front tires touching the track. Are you using a low-profile guide? If you built the chassis correctly it should all stack up right for the .015" clearance (with tires touching) and then you have to shim the guide down for the recess.

Keep in mind the tech inspection will have require the front tires touching but the guide free and clear of the tech block.

[DirtyHairy]

Tis a Stock Car.

[John Streisguth]

Ah, OK, then everything else applies but the clearance should be .050" all around.

[DirtyHairy]

Another stupid question, but I have to ask out of curiosity... the FX kit is illegal, I understand that, but can you use pieces of this kit such as the pans or the center section in building a chassis to be legal in IRRA races???

[Dan Myers]

When will the IRRA rules pages on the IRRA website be updated to reflect the recently approved Slick 7 Mini-Brute motor so that divisions can print the rules to get out to there races with an updated motor list.

Thanks,
Dan

[Noose]

The Motor Rules pages have been updated on the site and the print-outs. The individual class sites have not been updated yet but will be when we update all of the rules for the coming season.

The latest news page also contains the announcement about the use of the motor.

[Dan Myers]

Noose,

Thank you for the help with that. I will keep my eyes peeled for the updates.

Thank you,
Dan

[DirtyHairy]

Any news on the question I asked about the FX kit??? I'm getting excited about the Penn-Ohio series starting and was really wanting to build a new car for the new series!!! Just trying to see what direction I should go in...

[Rick]

Hairy,

This has been answered before and every car is approved or disapproved as submitted. If you were to take an FX kit and add wire uprights for front axle carrier it would probably be OK, I am not speaking for the BoD. But present what you have in mind and see where it goes. It is tough for any to speculate on what you have in mind until you do it.

The nice thing about scratchbuilding is you can always unsolder and do over...

[Cheater]

Justin,

You question is actively being discussed. We're still trying to come to a consensus on how the BoD wishes to respond. Patience, please!

[DirtyHairy]

I know, I know... I don't think I know what that means though (patience). I'll have to look it up in the dictionary. LOL.

[Cheater]

Justin,

Ask your wife. I'll bet she has the patience of a saint (just like mine...).

[Rick]

I am going to Staples tonight, gonna buy cheater and Noose an EASY BUTTON.

[Fast Freddie]

I would like to know what work, if any, is allowed to be performed on the motor prior to sending it to the refurbisher. Here are a few things I like to do to all my motors before I race them. Would you please either qualify or disqualify the proceedures.

- Deburr endbell, align hardware, and epoxy in bushing
- Straighten can and solder or epoxy bushing
- Match magnets, align and epoxy (super glue) magnets in place
- Zap the magnets
- Adjust magnet air gap and hone magnets
- Check armature resistance and cut com to a more performance-oriented diamenter
- Have the armature stacks cut to .513" if needed

I do these things to help the motor perform better and also make it survive longer.

Thank you,

[Marty Stanley]

I am going to Staples tonight, gonna buy cheater and Noose an EASY BUTTON.

Rick,

You might want to get one for each of them!

Sharing might be a logistical problem with one in NJ and the other in Georgia.

Why do you want it EASY for them? I mean they get the big bucks to handle all the hard questions!

Heck, let's just put a couple of them here so folks can find them to make it easier for themselves.

There, it's much easier already!

[Cheater]

Just wanted to remind everyone that the IRRA BoD "officially" responds to questions over in the pinned "IRRA™ Rules Questions & Answers" thread.

A response to Fred Younkin's questions has been posted to that thread.

[DirtyHairy]

Still no decision on the FX kit (using pieces that is)???

[DirtyHairy]

Obviously you don't know me... I'm still learning the meaning of that word!!! LOL!

[Noose]

There is an answer forthcoming. The problem presented is unique as the chassis in question is illegal to use.

[DirtyHairy]

Sweet - thanks for the heads-up, Noose!!!

[MSwiss]

You can use the main plate.

You can not use the "Eurosport"/keyed elements in the slots. Those are the front wheel uprights and lead wire holder/guide tongue locator.

[DirtyHairy]

How about pans? Sorry to keep on asking...