3573 replies to this topic

[havlicek]

Thanks Vic and Barney. Geez Barn, please tell me you're right-handed

Finished the second of two for Marty N. These were built, timed and wound to his specs, a #28 wind at somewhere between .3 and .4 ohm. The first was done as a Parma rewind with a Bugenis com. This one's got both the stack and com by Bugenis and is a very nice arm if I do say so myself



-john

[Marty N]

Oh man, that is one FULL stack Pretty. I'll have to build a new short block for these

[HarV Wallbanger III]

Wow John I just got the motor today and it ROCKS! It has a ton of brakes and torque! Just what I wanted! Thank you very much! Now to get it in the car to test maybe tomorrow at BPR...

[havlicek]

Hi Barn...glad you like it.

It has a ton of brakes and torque! Just what I wanted

Well it's a big help that you specified the wind knowing what you were after. You also supplied excellent parts, and all that together makes for a good motor! I hope it works as well on the track, but I think it should. A wind like that in a solid motor like the Champ 26D is a pretty great combo.

-john

[havlicek]

#3 For Marty N. All three wound to the same specs (#28awg, 30° adv.) but on three different blanks. He'll have lots to experiment with!



-john

[Marty N]

Now this is going to be some fun. Three identical arms who vary only in "iron".

[Alchemist]

Talk about "Big Block" power!!! Very nice as usual John!

John,

When you rewind a motor and put power to it to see/hear how the motor runs, is it run on power for just the moment or do you juice it for a certain length of time for break-in - so that each motor you rewind is already broken in and Ready-to-Run (RTR)??

Thank you John!

Ernie

[havlicek]

Hi Ernie,

At most, I'll do two or three minutes on the power supply for a motor just to make sure everything's alright and get a feel for how it's working. So for people who want a full break-in, they gotta do it for themselves. A lot of the time, I'll also leave out easy stuff for people to do themselves as well like add shunts or maybe ball bearings. I just finished-off a batch of 8 motors headed for Germany (mostly old parts supplied by the owner) and if I were to break in every motor...I'd be there until tomorrow

-john

[Alchemist]

Thanks for the feedback John!

That's exciting that you're performing motor work for people in other countries! I can understand why your work is sought after John!!!!! Terrific stuff you build!!

Thanks for your time.

Ernie

[havlicek]

You're most welcome Ernie

-john

[Robert V.]

Hi guys it's time for a few more rewinds first up an arm i pulled out of an old Parma 16d rotor motor but it looked to good to be a Parma arm any way i used 30 turns of 28 gauge wire tied and a coat of heat cured epoxy i replaced the comm with one from a bunch of arms given to me by Ron van Wagner thanks Ron i tryed to do a static balance on it but i couldn't find a heavy stack i guess i got lucky on this one and it shore does scream all the way up to 16 volts, next a rewound spec 15 arm i used the same turns and rebuild as the 16d but there is a big difference in rpm i assume it has to do with the lighter statcks and the group 12 setup i installed it in good mags make a difference i guess i only tested it up to 7 volts that was before i gave it a coat of epoxy didn't want to throw a winding but it sounds real good last pic is of the 2 arms together so you can see the size difference.

[Victor Poulin]

Nice job Robert!! Is the arm on the lower right an RJR ?

[Robert V.]

Hi Vic i am not 100% shore but i do believe the 16d is an RJR arm nice call on that one, wonder how these will work in my drag car i will find out should be interesting.

[Bill from NH]

Nice job Robert!! Is the arm on the lower right an RJR ?

Vic, if its not, it has an RJR comm.

Robert, what's the dia. of the 16D stack? Is it .560 or in the .513-.518 range?

[Victor Poulin]

Hi Vic i am not 100% shore but i do believe the 16d is an RJR arm nice call on that one, wonder how these will work in my drag car i will find out should be interesting.

I think in the right set up with some nice stout magnets, you'll be very supprised !!

[Robert V.]

Bill the dia. is between .513-.518.

[Robert V.]

You may be correct about the magnets Vic at this point i don't think i will get much more out of a hotter wind with stock Parma magnets but when i go to the track i will have them zapped any way can't hurt.

[Victor Poulin]

You may be correct about the magnets Vic at this point i don't think i will get much more out of a hotter wind with stock Parma magnets but when i go to the track i will have them zapped any way can't hurt.

Try a set of either Parma EPX magnets or Proslot FX. Give them a good zap and see how they do.
If you want to get real frisky you could try a set of Neos shimed up to around a 530 - 540 gap.

Vic

[Bill from NH]

For the ceramic magnets, the Proslot SpeedFX (PS-2016) should be stronger & they come matched.

[havlicek]

Hey Robert...the arms look great! 30T/#28 is pretty danged light, so I expect it would be a real screamer of a wind! Both look like really nice work winding, tieing and epoxying.

-john

PS...thanks for keeping the arm winding thread fresh and interesting!

[Robert V.]

Thanks Vic and Bill i will check out some stronger mags as this arms runs pretty strong and since it held up to 16 volts it would be interesting to see if i can get equal or as close as i can to the performance of one of those Speed FX motors? Thanks John i wish i could do more, i am trying harder on the neatness thing i will keep at it.

[Victor Poulin]

Robert,
I think you'll find that the performance is going to be MUCH better than any speed FX motor! At least any stock ones lol.


Vic

[havlicek]

I got inspired to do up a 36D after learning a little about these races at BPR. I wound two #28 arms:

First one seemed a little timid, but runs strong and pretty danged cool:



Second one seems about right as a balance between "heat" and longevity...more bettererestest:



Both were done on Tradeship (French) blanks with Mura coms reamed out and welded. Of course, they had to be installed in something to see how they run so a "Big Block" was in order. I guess in keeping with my "mixed nuts" series of motors, this one would be a Brazil Nut or maybe even a "Coconut"



As seems to be the custom, I fabricated a set of brush plates with leadwire tabs and installed some Parma hoods over those. I was going to make a set of "elephant ears" for extra cooling, but I don't think it needs them so I stuck a fork in it and called it "done". I might do another as a double wind, but I think a single is appropriate for these.

-john

[Victor Poulin]

Looks real perdy John, as all yours do lol

[Robert V.]

Nice work John i have used the Parma brush hoods on a 36d before they work well and it makes it easy to use any of the modern springs and brushes.