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McLaren M8


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#26 MattD

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Posted 20 September 2020 - 06:36 PM

Ken,

I agree, never sand until the surface has been cleaned. I learned that years ago on big cars.    I use no silicone or any kind of mold release any my mold process except for the pouring of the inner plug so it won't stick to the already poured outer mold.  I put my pattern in the outer mold then paint the areas where the mold rubber will touch with the 2 part release,    When it's all done, I wash both parts of the mold in hot water with soap!    

 

I go thru a long process cleaning the casting before I paint.    I can and have used alcohol, but it isn't part of my regular process.  Maybe it should be.   Maybe silicone in the actual rubber is creating the problem somehow.    

 

It's a continual learning process and it I can live another 100 years I might have all the answers!!!!


Matt Bishop

Vintage Cox Slot Cars




#27 rvec

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Posted 22 September 2020 - 04:28 PM

Guys,
Good advice on the paint. My friend had the same problem with his resin Daytona Prototype. He is stripping and says he will try the alcohol.  I will let you know how it works out.
 
I finished the interior. I just have not had time to fabricate the stacks. Testing with the McLaren body was a little disappointing. Lap times with the M8 body were just under 5 seconds as opposed to 4.83 with the old GT40 body. I think the problem is weight. The GT40s are about 25 grams while the resin M8 is closer to 35. That seems to make a big difference. On the bright side, the M8 chassis is equipped with a T10 and I think that a ProSlot 16D would be a better choice (and also legal for our True Scale classes).  At some point I will swap out the motor but for the time being, I consider the project finished.
 
 
Below are a few images of the finished product - now onto another project
 

M8_Final1.jpg
 
M8_Final2.jpg
 
M8_Final3.jpg


Rich Vecchio


#28 rvec

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Posted 24 September 2020 - 05:39 PM

Update: Today I got to thinking about the M8, wondering why the times degraded with the M8 body. I did some testing today and one of the lead wires broke off. After soldering the lead wires back I tested again. Viola, times improved down to 4.83 seconds. I am finally happy with the performance. Again, I was not happy with the paint. I will attempt to acquire another body and this time do more treating before painting. I will use alcohol this time. I think I will paint the car with the #11 red paint scheme. 


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Rich Vecchio


#29 Alchemist

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Posted 25 September 2020 - 01:49 PM

Hi Rich,

 

I like your black paint job!

 

To me, It has the correct "patina" look and feel, as though it has survived many battles on the track!

 

Great job by the way!

 

I like it! ! !

 

Thanks for sharing.

 

Ernie


Ernie Layacan

#30 rvec

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Posted 25 September 2020 - 02:32 PM

Thanks Ernie. I hope to use this car on a regular basis in our Can-Am races held at STR in Roseburg. I intend to upgrade the motor and gearing to make it both faster and smoother. STR's class if for OSCAR based cars which are scratch built hinged jobs with in-line motors and small rear wheels.  Here is a link to the cars it will be racing against

http://slotblog.net/...at-str-on-3220/ Note that Ron's Black GT40 is a Scholer based ride (note GT1 cars are all H-bracket cars like the Scholer)

 

also see the link http://slotblog.net/...t-str-on-82619/


Rich Vecchio


#31 Alchemist

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Posted 26 September 2020 - 04:15 PM

Hi Rich,

 

What a gorgeous field of race cars!

 

To me, that class looks like it will be as exciting to run as it is to watch the real scale 1/1 vintage racing.

 

Those pictures bring back fond memories of many vintage race cars I was privileged to have restored.

 

Thanks for sharing those links Rich.

 

Ernie


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