92 replies to this topic

[Alchemist]

What a "gem" of a motor Rick!

 

Excellent!

 

Ernie

[Mark Onofri]

Kinda surprised you didn't go with the threaded inserts but, perfection none the less. Assembly trays are great aren't they? I use the styrofoam produce trays. Cheep, plentiful and, I can stick things in them(brush springs,screws etc.). That way I can loose everything at once!

[dc-65x]

Glad you like the motor Mark. My floor is a portal to a different dimension. Anything dropped on it is usually gone forever so keeping things in some kind of tray is mandatory.  

 

But what "threaded inserts" are you speaking of?  

[Mark Onofri]

The brass ones for mounting the motor. I've seen you use them before and thought it was very impressive. Like the limited Champion (?) Black endbell had.
As for the floor portal, I've painted mine white, it's a little better but..... things still seem to wind up in the cosmic oblivion.

[Bill from NH]

A picture frame with the glass replaced with something soft, such as sheet cork, makes a good work area for small parts, with a border.  A model builder friend of mine showed me this works when slot car building too.

[Bill Breck]

Dollar Tree stores have a nice selection of plastic "meal trays" with various sized compartments.

 

I mostly use them for holding Dremel and airbrush accessories/parts, but they could be used for builds too.

 

 

 

[Mark Onofri]

Sorry to have drifted your thread dc65-x. Look at it this way, you got a mutch deserved break!

[dc-65x]

You're right Mark. I do need a break.        I've been struggling with the "wing thing".......and it's fixed, not even operable.  

 

Anyway, I've finally got the mounting system fabricated. I wanted to do something removeable. Now I need to get the 2 wing halves glued together cleanly.  

 

One more thing on my "build box". I don't actually work within the box. The parts are grouped and put in small craft store jewelry boxes and their lids. As needed I remove the small box with the parts I want and set it on the workbench. The little box keeps thing from rolling around and getting lost as I assemble and I have the whole benchtop to work on:

 

[Mark Onofri]

There's a thread with the Cox? Wing details. Should I find it? Not to cramp your space but, you might find it amusing.

[Martin]

Its beginning to feel a lot like Christmas with all those boxes, have a good one guys.  

[dc-65x]

My "wing saga" is finally winding down. I saw this scale plan of a Chaparral 2F that showed the shape of its wing strut (shown in the red circle):

 

 

K&S Metals makes a similar shape "streamlined" aluminum tubing and the smallest size 1/4" X 1/8" looks about right:

 

 

I wanted to make the wing easily removable. Mounting the struts to the chassis was a problem with lack of space. One strut was right above the spur gear. 

 

The wing and struts are attached to the body with a couple of 1/8" Evergreen styrene strips, 1-72 flathead screws and 3/32" aluminum tube:

 

 

The shorter plastic strip gets taped to the body and the screws attach the struts to it. The struts have the 3/32" aluminum tube glued inside and the flush end is tapped 1-72 for the screws.

 

The longer plastic strip gets 3/32" holes for the tube protruding from the struts. The strip is glued inside the wing and the wing will be glued to the tubes after paint.

 

Nothing is ever easy as it seems. The back of the body where the plastic strip get attached is angled so an angle had to be milled into it so the strut would be vertical. And the plastic strip inside the wing had to have the tube mounting holes drilled at an angle too.

 

I use a little vise sitting on an angle block and clamped into a bigger vise:

 

 

 

I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.....so far:

 

 

 

Is there anything you can't fixture up in a Rick's Jig. The pin spacing proved just right to gently hold the 2 wing halves after gluing:

 

 

In hole in the bottom of the wing is larger than it needs to be. The wing had indentations molded in for the narrower 2E Chaparral body which need to be cut out for the plastic strip to sit flat:

 

 

The only thing I still need to do is sand the flange around the Lancer wing halves as far as I dare without the thing coming apart.........

[don.siegel]

Very impressive Rick... like you say, you think a thing like a wing is going to be easy, but no! 

 

Don 

[Mark Onofri]

One of the first,if not the first, Hot wheels I ever got was the green/gold chromey version of this Chaparral. Some day, maybe I'll aquire a Sizzledome re-pop and put it on a 888esk chassis.(I'll have to check the spelling)

[Phil Smith]

Very clever, Rick!

[Mark Onofri]

I was looking at the chassis build and, I have a question. The iner rails are (2) two separate pieces but, assembled it looks like (1) one piece. Is it just a optical conclusion?

[Pablo]

Inner rails are 2 separate pieces. Look closely at the bottom shot of the chassis in post #36 at the brass sheet cross piece. The 2 rods meet there. It's hard to see the gap because the workmanship tolerances are so tight and perfect. 

[dc-65x]

Thanks guys. I'm really glad that wing is finished. It was really "bugging me man":

 

 
Pablo is right Mark, the inner rails are 2 separate pieces:
 

With that all cleaned up the drop arm hinge and up stop added, the final inner rails were bent up..........

[Tex]

f'ing GREAT movie, by the way..... LOL

[Slot Car Rod]

The wing assembly turned out great!  What kind of glue did you use on the aluminum pieces?

[Mr. M]

Only one rail on the motor mount side by the motor box?

[Mark Onofri]

Sussssh

[Phil Smith]

Only one rail on the motor mount side by the motor box?

 

http://slotblog.net/...build/?p=833626

[Phil Smith]

Keep on him, boys. With your help, maybe Rick will finally learn how to build a chassis.

[Mr. M]

OK I get it. The example copied looks to have a much tighter motor box on that side though.

[old & gray]

It seems to me that the motor bracket would provide the stiffness of a second rail.