209 replies to this topic

[Mark Onofri]

Thanks Dave. I'm half tempted to use my 1985 Badger. I don't know if I've had enough practice with the Raptor. There's over 256 possible combinations of tips and rods.

 

I'm not going to shoot any laqour on the Vair. Ironically, the body filler that I used might have caused more warpage than it cured. I think I'm going to spray the Ferrari to night. Revell enamel is the flavor of the night. For the price, it had better be better than the Testors. Proper reducer, opposed to generic paint thinner might also help.

[Mark Onofri]

I didn't want to wait any longer. If I did, I'd lose the body and just have the parts. Max Mosley told me to paint it black before the silver. So critique away. Note: it's a two-stage paint.

 

[Mark Onofri]

Problem solved. Quality reducer is thing of beauty. I'm amazed at how much you can add to the paint and still have it cover without runing.

[Martin]

Mark that does look good. Great save.

Looking forward to seeing your finished color choice.

[Dave Crevie]

I learned early on that quality materials are always the best choice. Seen too many paint jobs ruined because the painter tried to skimp somewhere along the line. 

[Mark Onofri]

This didn't post last night. Maybe it'll post today. If you compare it to the vair, you can see a noticeable difference. Just the lower half is going to be black.

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[Mark Onofri]

As you can see, I'm having issues with the paint lifting. IDK 😐, after I sprayed it, I waited all of 5 minutes before I applied the tape ?(only kidding).
It's like I always say:
If you let not knowing what you're doing stop you, you'll never get any.
Note: the yellow on the top of the front fenders is not masking.

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[Mark Onofri]

It's not as pronounced in this picture but,at the right angle, it looks like a two-tone gray and silver paint job. I went back to the Passhae retro brush. It has a much wider pattern. I'll have to find what tips and rods I need for the Raptor. Dats it for tonight.
Please,by all means, critique it. I wouldn't be upset if you think it looks like a bag of a holes. Honesty is the only way to learn. And also, the main subject of the thread was the replacement of the top. The rest is fluff.
Stay tuned for the clear. I'm very proud of the fact that this restoration required NO STITCHES 👌🔪🪡

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[Bill from NH]

What size needle & nozzle are on your new airbrush? You probably need a 4 or 5 depending on what you got now;

[Dave Crevie]

Have you tried 3-M blue or Frog masking tape? The old crepe style tape can sometimes be too sticky. Spray the first coat a little wetter. 

[Bill from NH]

The green & yellow Frog tapes have different levels of adhesive.

[Bill from NH]

Mark, the internet indicates the Paasche Raptor airbrush comes with .38mm & .66mm needle & nozzle sets. It doesn't say which comes installed. Check the instructions that came with your brush & see if it says the same thing. The .38mm set is for details & gives about a 1" wide spray pattern. The .66mm set gives a wider spray pattern.

[Mark Onofri]

Billnh, it has four (4) tips and nozzles also three (3) nozzle covers? The instructions are worse than a stereo assembly manual. It tells you what each one does but,neglects to tell you which is which. I'm getting passable results from the single action air brush.
I went to the PPG website to see if I should have added hardner to the base coat. Without giving a definite yes or no,it did say it wouldn't hurt. Gee, thanks. So glad I got that in real time. Anyway, I just finished my third or fourth try. I'll post some pics.

[Mark Onofri]

Aside from the fubar'ed black,at least I got the colour right. The second photo is singing stage Revell enamel. A little bit of eggshells but, it's the first coat. If I'm lucky, the the rubbing compound will eliminate it or,burn through. 50/50 odds.
Otherwise, how does the transplant look?

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[Dave Crevie]

To me the red looks to be coagulated pigment. Red, silver, and black are the three colors that have this problem the most. The finely ground powdered pigment tends to glob together, creating what looks like dirt or dust in the paint. Straining is the only way to get rid of this. Before you thin/reduce the paint, warm it a little, (say baby formula warm) then strain it through a coffee filter. This will break up most of the clumps, and filter out any that won't break up.     ( if the paint won't flow through the filter, you can pour in some thinner, a little at a time, to get it to go through. If the paint won't flow through a filter, chances are it won't flow well through an airbrush)

 

I always test shoot a scrap piece of flat styrene before I try painting the model. Since I use Evergreen Hill sheet styrene for building railroad structures, I always have some scraps of it laying around. Failing that, and knowing that there are seldom leftover parts in a kit box suitable for test spraying, I usually keep a body or two that I screwed up too much to use in the project, just for the purpose of practicing on.  

[Mark Onofri]

Doesn't it figure. I picked the three (3) most problematic colours. I've even gone to drastic measures. Applying it straight out of the can with a brush. Not impressed with the results. Maybe it does need harder.
Before this car meets with the same fate as the Aurora model I did as a child ( a Stuka crashed into it and ignited the starter fluid 💥) I'm going to set it aside for a minute.
To answer your question about what tape I've been using,Tamiya and Scotch blue. The problem isn't limited to just the vair, it's not sticking to any of the styrene models . I'm going to try to get a answer from the PPG website. Worst they can do is laugh.

[Mark Onofri]

The transplant must have met with everyone's approval,no one has commented. Too busy laughing?

[Bill from NH]

We are waiting to see it on a chassis as a completed slot car.

 

What's the relationship of the red body to your Corvair project? Any? Or is it just a test mule for the red paint? Will you be using red on the Corvair?

[Mark Onofri]

It's also a Aurora. I did it for practice before the vair. It was a four(4) piece {of<¥©¥} body. Good practice. I'm wondering if I should move to the paint shop thread?

[Martin]

I would keep it here Mark, I will never find it if you move it. 

[Dave Crevie]

Don't get disheartened. I have gone through this countless times. Experience is the best teacher, you will get the results you want just by screwing up along the way. I totally believe that model building, including slot cars, is 20% talent and 80% hard work.

[Mark Onofri]

Thanks guys, I'm at the point where I just have to walk away from it for a minute. Like I've previously said,if I don't stay with it, I'll loose the parts! So, it's going to be a short break.

[Dave Crevie]

I hear ya'. I always have several projects going at a time. That way I can change to something else if I hit a brick wall on a project. And I have both slot car and model railroad projects I can choose from. Model railroading is more soothing, slot racing lets me get my aggravations out. As a last resort, I can bang out some old psycadelic rock tunes on a guitar. Blue Cheer's version of "Summertime Blues" seems to work real well for that. 

 

https://youtu.be/as1NcX31szs?si=vWyZ57c3ntX3Bior 

[Bill from NH]

I know some enjoy listening to rock & other types of music while working on slot cars. I'd rather work in peace & quiet & usually do. 

[Mark Onofri]

LMFAO! I cranked up the Hawkwind ! Silver machine, shouldn't do that! Then it all went.... .