104 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

This is going to be the best, strongest, most powerful Cuc ever.    

[Jaeger Team]

Coming from you, it's the best compliment I could have expected.

Thank you. Paul!

[Bill from NH]

What about best looking?

[Jaeger Team]

Here it would be ideal to be able to solder these spring steels, the piece should be pre-treated as the Koford aluminum wing chassis are made...
I know the procedure for doing it at home but I will go with the safest method already tested: two layers of epoxy, uhu plus and JB Weld.
 

[Jaeger Team]

Next shaky pans...

 

 

 

[Maximo]

Nice, very nice!

[Jaeger Team]

Thanks Max!

[Jaeger Team]

... even the drop arm got its weight...

 

 

[Jaeger Team]

I don't like having too much play here, so I glued two pieces of steel half a millimeter thick on both sides.

 

 

[Jaeger Team]

... to complete the arrangement of the chassis there is a very critical obligatory step. I will not use a Cox guide...

 

[Jaeger Team]

First attempt to make this strong and reliable...

 

 

 

 

[Martin]

Looking good Maurizo. Enjoying your build 

If the soldered on post is not threaded and I see it is not, what are the plans for this post? 

[Jaeger Team]

Thanks, Martin.

I'm planning to make a piece to put over like a sandwich, soldering it to the post and epoxying it all together.
(a threaded post would certainly have been more correct given the philological aspect... but this is ultimately a race car...)
🙂

[Martin]

That works for me.  

 

I guess I was thinking if were threaded it would be repair and/or replace in the event of a racing incident, you know, like a wall shot.   

[Jaeger Team]

Martin, you made me think. Done!

 

 

[Jaeger Team]

... for the guide I made something that can be disassembled easily, as Martin recommended.
I will decide after the first test on the track whether to make it further wallshot-proof...

 

 

 

 

[Bill from NH]

That guide tongue looks plenty strong. You could also insert a piece of piano wire in the guide post & into the guide blade for some extro strength.

[Don Weaver]

You could also insert a piece of piano wire in the guide post and into the guide blade for some extra strength.

 

Or use one of Mike Swiss' upgraded guide flags with post and blade modifications...

 

Don

[Eddie Fleming]

I think it was Ralph Thorne I once heard say he did not brace the guide on flexi chassis because they would just bend somewhere else and be harder to fix. I am not saying anything is good or bad, just give it some thought any time you start bracing. 

[Jaeger Team]

Thanks, Bill, Don, and Eddie. I'm thinking about what you said. In a previous creation I had assembled a truly efficient superstructure (in my opinion)...

 

[Jaeger Team]

... color matching.

🙂

 

[Jaeger Team]

I drilled two holes (about .077") to have more security and stability in fixing the motor.

 

[Jaeger Team]

With a one millimeter wire under the rear axle the guide lies flat on the jig. I hope it works.

 

[Jaeger Team]

I'm thinking of using these rims (ancient Carrera)
for the front wheels... but where could I find suitable tyres?

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[Martin]

One Idea would be to hold in a lathe chuck and turn a groove for an O-ring. If this sounds like a possibility to you I can suggest a way that I would hold it in the chuck? Not that easy as it has a tapered part, but I have a plan B if you have a lathe?