169 replies to this topic

[MSwiss]

Dave,  Thanks for the diagram and the method!

 

use the router spacing jig with a straight edge to finish the straightaways on either method? 

 

I assume that this is all after the unslotted track surface is assembled and before the the inner turn pivot points are cut out?

If you use a router spacing jig, you use that to cut everything.

 

IOW, you make one pass, never lifting the jig and router off of the surface.

 

I have a ton of other things to add but I have raceway business to tend to.

 

I'll try to get back to you tonight.

[Dave Crevie]

Regardless of how you do the slots, if you are going to use 4 x 8 sheets, I'd get those assembled with a good system of alignment for disassembly/assembly at some time. I would change how the sheets are laid out at the right end of the track to one 4 X 8 sheet. 

 

[MSwiss]

While Rob's design would be pretty ideal for cutting the slots in complete sheets, he's made it pretty clear from his first post he wants to build it like a commercial track, in clearly defined sections, on legs.

[MSwiss]

I think you are too obsessed with your narrow inside apron to wide outside apron.

 

I don't see any big advantage to narrow inside aprons in area's that are aren't  easily accessible like the ones I marked in Red. 

 

IOW, I would leave them the same wide width, on the inside and outside.

 

If you think it's important gaining a bit more room in the area's marked in blue, I would trim those tapers as a separate operation,  before you put the walls on.

 

 

 

 

Before  I built my King in 2005, I did a lot of thinking on how I could make an accurate compass to cut both the shape of the turns and the 8 slots, using only my table saw and a nice sized drill press.

 

This is what I came up with.

 

The two vertical 1/2" boards that run the length of it, both stiffen it, but more importantly hold a small metal strip in place with two 1/8" holes spaced 7/16" apart.

 

 

Using the "strip jig", I drilled my first hole. I then used a shortened 1/8" axle and the cut Cobra spur gear to firmly hold the jig in place while I drilled a new hole, obviously using the second hole as the drill guide.

That new hole was then the new locking hole and I just progressed down the whole length of cavity.

7/16"  was evenly divisable in the 4 3/8" lane spacing I used. I would cut a slot and then move the pivot pin 10 places, and cut my next slot. I was amazed how well all 8 slots lined up when I connected the 2 piece,  270 degree Donut.

 

 

Here's a closeup of the router end of the compass arm. It shows my moveable pivot pin, again just a 1/8" Koford (full length) slot car axle, this time with a used rear tire as the handle. It also shows how the strip jig was used to create the multitude of evenly spaced holes. That strip is a press fit between the 2 vertical stiffeners.

[Bigdogbro1]

Hi Steve,

I see your posts and appreciate your information.   Not sure what you mean about being too obsessed with my narrow inside apron to wide outside apron.  That's just the way the geometry works out for that layout wide outer apron.  The four slot track spacing is all 3.5" and the inner turn aprons, except where the turn outer apron is 5.5" now for the longer cars.  Nice work on the layout tools for the router.  

 

Have been making some changes and calculating materials for a build on this 1/32 four lane wood track.  Increased the outside gutter apron width from 5" to 5.5" all the way around.  This now gives me a 19.5" wide track.  I increased the radius of the back straight left side turn to match the other larger turns.  Flipped the track to have the short snake turns on the righthand side.  I plan to build the track in similar fashion to the Steve Ogilvie track posted below.

 

Spent some time designing the legs from Steve's notes (Thanks Steve) with a modification or two for this track.  Laid out a nested 4'x8' MDF sheet of the leg triangles for 20 per sheet.  

 

The track joints are set for now. 

 

Looking at power systems but I'm not sure what these 1/32 scale cars like the faster sidewinder Revoslot Toyota GT-One or higher comp cars need for voltage, current and surge power. 

Is a variable power supply neccessary or just 12v output.  Not sure on some of these faster cars and motors.

Does anyone have some numbers? 

Thanks!

 

Looking at hand controllers both for Carrera type cars (running analog) or other lower cost analog cars for the kids to play with and a few better models for myself.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions and input.

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[Dave Crevie]

Generally the home set cars are designed to run on 18 volts, but 12 volts is more realistic if you are running without traction magnets. 

[Bigdogbro1]

Regardless of how you do the slots, if you are going to use 4 x 8 sheets, I'd get those assembled with a good system of alignment for disassembly/assembly at some time. I would change how the sheets are laid out at the right end of the track to one 4 X 8 sheet. 

 

slotradii7.JPG

Thanks Dave,

The track is all free standing like the one pictured below.

 

That 4x8 outline drawing was just used as a layout diagram for the area in the basement.  

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[Bigdogbro1]

Generally the home set cars are designed to run on 18 volts, but 12 volts is more realistic if you are running without traction magnets. 

Dave,

 

No magnets on this track, nothing to stick to.  Was interested in the higher end speed car setups and motors.  Is 18v a top number to shoot for to have the option in using.  If so what amount of DC current and surge amps do they consume?

Thanks-

[Bigdogbro1]

Before you cut any material, layout the entire slot path with a magic marker. Mark the endpoints of each slot, preferrably with a different color. The endpoints of the curved slots can be marked using a carpenter's square, one leg aligned with the straight section of the outer lane, and the other aligned with the center point of that curve. Using the leg of the square that passes through the center point, draw a line from that point out to the slot of the outer lane. (shown in red)  This will be the stop point of the curved slots. 

 

slotradii4.JPG

 

 

For two curves that meet without a straight between them, simply draw a line through the two centerpoints of the curves using a straightedge. 

Dave,

Thanks for the layout advice.  Having the outer gutter apron wider now at 5.5" from the outside turn slot has some geometry that has to blend together and isn't easily laid out to wood routing.  I most likely will assemble the entire flat non-slotted track then draw out the slots and proceed cautiously.  lol

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[Bigdogbro1]

This is the walkout basement area I want to use for the track.  The motorcycles and lift are being replaced by this slotcar track for entertainment.

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[Dave Crevie]

Dave,

 

No magnets on this track, nothing to stick to.  Was interested in the higher end speed car setups and motors.  Is 18v a top number to shoot for to have the option in using.  If so what amount of DC current and surge amps do they consume?

Thanks-

 

Magna-braid is available if you want to use magnets. And 18 volts is the number you want to shoot for if you want to do that. The wall warts supplied with most 1/32nd sets are 18 v. with 1 to 2 amps output. But for a track your size, with four lanes, you will need at least 10 amps output. Or a lot of power taps to the track sections. Otherwise, 12 volts is enough, and you will find it more challenging w/o the magnets. Mike Swiss can probably comment better on power needs for commercial track cars.

 

Like your scooter. V-8?  Any other pics of that little beauty? 

[Bigdogbro1]

Dave,

I think I'll pass on the magnets.  I have been looking for a regulated DC power supply with variable output with around 25 to 30 amps capability that's affordable.  I might consider adjustable switching power supplies and have a few large uF caps on the output connections to help with any surge currents.  Could be four individual units with caps as well.

 

Regarding the bike, it's a 2007 Bigdog Bulldog, Prostreet style, custom paint, 117cuin S&S V-Twin Evo, EFI, 6-spd Baker RH drive trans, 300mm rear tire, 20k miles.  I'm the original owner of the Bigdog.  It was my main rider from 2008 to 2016 when I purchased a 2015 Victory Magnum (Arlen Ness Signature Series) bagger.  The Dog has been a joy to ride because you sit down in it.  Bigdog is manufactured in Witchita Kansas USA.

 

The slotcar track is a transistion for after motorcycling and something to enjoy with the grandkids, friends and family.

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[breese]

Dont know if you have seen this or even interested but it was posted on the site today.

http://slotblog.net/...slot-car-track/

[Bigdogbro1]

Dont know if you have seen this or even interested but it was posted on the site today.

http://slotblog.net/...slot-car-track/

That is good sized track at a great price with the accessories.  Too large for my space.  Thanks for passing it along.

[Dave Crevie]

Dave,

 

Regarding the bike, it's a 2007 Bigdog Bulldog, Prostreet style, custom paint, 117cuin S&S V-Twin Evo, EFI, 6-spd Baker RH drive trans, 300mm rear tire, 20k miles.  I'm the original owner of the Bigdog.  It was my main rider from 2008 to 2016 when I purchased a 2015 Victory Magnum (Arlen Ness Signature Series) bagger.  The Dog has been a joy to ride because you sit down in it.  Bigdog is manufactured in Witchita Kansas USA.

 

The slotcar track is a transistion for after motorcycling and something to enjoy with the grandkids, friends and family.

 

Looks like fun. I like a lowrider. I have one friend that still rides. 71 years old and rides a Boss Hoss. Been a long, long time since I last rode. As soon as I graduated from high school I picked up a WLA rat bike at a swap meet. Chopped it over the winter 1969/70. Raked the head, mounted a Durfee girder front end. It came with a knucklehead, so I built that with a bunch of S & S parts. Widened the rear end for a big tire, put a peanut tank on, and a Corben seat. Rode it through the summer of 1970, until I got knocked off it by a cager changing lanes without looking. Too old and decrepit to ride now. Wouldn't build another rigid, anyway.  

[Bill from NH]

Dave, get yourself a trike. I know a couple old guys who have them & they love them. One guy even hauls his girlfriend around on his.

[Dave Crevie]

Have a relative with a V-8 trike. I've ridden it, but not like leaning into a curve. It has become too dangerous for bikes around here. Too many idiot drivers not paying attention. In my end of town we've had 7 major bike wrecks so far this year, 4 of them fatalities. Can't say that all of them were the fault of the drivers, 6 of them were sport bikes, and those guys can be pretty careless. More than a few times I've had them pass between me and the car in the next lane over. My wreck came when I was riding slow in the rain and a car passed the car following me. He cut over into my lane, thinking the lane was empty. Knocked me off the bike. Didn't get seriously hurt, mostly road rash, but the bike got effed up. 

[Bigdogbro1]

Fixed the problem

[MSwiss]

This is easily the best way to go.

 

Get 4 of these.

 

Make sure you get the 10 amp models as 5A is usually available in an identical looking model.

 

You can find them on Ebay, last time I looked, for $75-$90 each, from a variety of vendors.

 

Adding these to my raceway  was the best thing I ever did.

 

Grandpa's bringing in 3 or 4 year olds, to intoduce them to slot racing, really appreciate not having to walk around reslotting cars.

 

[MSwiss]

This is easily the best way to go.

 

Get 4 of these.

 

Make sure you get the 10 amp models as 5A is usually available in an identical looking model.

 

You can find them on Ebay, last time I looked, for $75-$90 each, from a variety of vendors.

 

Adding these to my raceway 6 1/2 years ago was the best thing I ever did.

 

Grandpa's bringing in 3 or 4 year olds, to intoduce them to slot racing, really appreciate not having to walk around reslotting cars.

 

The only negative thing is that they do go up to 30V so you can't let real young kids have cart blanche, adjusting them.

 

[Bigdogbro1]

This is easily the best way to go.

 

Get 4 of these.

 

Make sure you get the 10 amp models as 5A is usually available in an identical looking model.

 

You can find them on Ebay, last time I looked, for $75-$90 each, from a variety of vendors.

 

Adding these to my raceway 6 1/2 years ago was the best thing I ever did.

 

Grandpa's bringing in 3 or 4 year olds, to intoduce them to slot racing, really appreciate not having to walk around reslotting cars.

 

The only negative thing is that they do go up to 30V so you can't let real young kids have cart blanche, adjusting them.

 

20240503_145757.jpg

Hi Mike,

Great pictures! 

 

I agree that this setup with individual power supplies is the way to go.  Are you using any additional electrolytic capacitors on the outputs for surge storage?

 

Some benefits...

1.  If cars deslot then your lane has the same power and available current.

2.  Adjustable voltage on each lane.

3.  Remaining lanes continue to run if one supply goes down.

4.  Less exspensive that a large single 40A unit.

5.  If a slot short circuit occures then only that lane goes down.

 

Drawbacks...

1.  More space required for units.

2.  A few extra wires to run.

Thanks

[MSwiss]

You don't need additional capacitors. I have guys run wing cars on them on occasion, when there is a casual rental going on.

 

If you stuck with 1/32 "homeset style" cars, you could probably get away with the 5 amp units.

 

They have been real reliable for me.

 

I've had cars with locked up motors shut them down.

 

I just turn them off and on, and they are back to normal.

[Dave Crevie]

By far the best system. I have raced on tracks where power surges were a real problem, even in classes with motors with relatively low draw. A car on another lane falls off, and everyone else gets a boost in voltage, usually at a time when you would rather it not happen. Like going into a corner. 

 

The other big advantage I see is when there is a group of novices (read kids) playing. The voltage to each lane can be set based on the driver's abilities. When everyone is not falling off, everyone has a better time. 

[Steve Ogilvie]

To try to illustrate what happens when using a pin guide for routing corners;

 

slotradii2.JPG

 

Where "B" is the desired lane spacing, starting with a completed curved outside slot "C", using a pin guide to route the next slot inward, will create an error in the lane spacing "B", and in turn a shorter radius "A" than intended. 

 

Conversely, starting from the innermost lane, using a pin guide to route the next lane outwards will create a lane spacing shorter than intended, and in turn, a smaller radius for that lane. In both cases, you end up with a miss-match where the curve joins up with the straight section just as Mike showed. 

 

I've seen guys use a 1/8th thick strip of teflon or nylon inserted into the slot to be copied, and a circular base plate for the router that has the lane spacing figured into the distance from the bit to the outside edge of the base plate. This way the lane spacing can be kept constant. This system is shown in one of the links in Jim's post. 

I really do not know why everyone wants to reinvent the wheel. My company built about 700 tracks, they were all routed using a router mounted on a piece of plexiglas with holes in it for guide pins. There is a picture and a diagram of it in my thread on how to build slot car tracks. I use pins spaced 5" apart 5" out from the 1/8" router bit. That was the position to cut the first lane off of the outside of the track. You route the whole track following the track all the way around. You do not change sides. You use the cutter to cut everything, straights included.The pins for the next slot are changed to a 4" spacing and the distance from the bit is changed to suit the lane spacing you are looking to get.Yes going around the corner changes the lane spacing slightly, smaller sometimes bigger other times but it simply does not matter. You want extra room between slots? just increase your distance from the 4" wide spaced pins to as much as the track width will allow. Same as for the first slot if you want more skid apron.The only real problem with offset routing is when you go around the inside of a corner with a very small radius. Plan your routing to avoid those tight inside corners.

    Offset jig routing also gives you the eliptical entry into and out of corners. It makes tracks easier to drive. 

    Most new commercial tracks are not routed by hand, they are CNC cut. They make the joints with CNC machines too. Some companies make the surface out of baltic birch. You cannot make a good job routing baltic birch by hand.

    Another ket to using an offset jig is the 1/8" bit you use. It has to be a carbide tipped bit where the steel holding the tip has a a chamfered edge where it joins to the tip. A plane old high speed steel bit gets dull in no time. A solid carbide bit will break in about 8 feet of routing. But a proper carbide tip router bit can cut the slot full depth in one pass and make about 15 tracks before it starts to get dull.  Using an offset router jig setup and a centre pin style braid relief cutter,(and of course 2 dedicated routers) my partner Brian Crosby and I routed a 155' track in 3 hours. 

    Just for fun I use to offer people a hundred dollars if they could find the spot where I started and stopped the routing of the slots. On most tracks there would be 3 spots if you knew where to look. No one ever collected.

[MSwiss]

"Plan your routing to avoid those tight inside corners."

 

I don't quite understand what you mean by "avoid".