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Posting Leader
Posted 02 January 2025 - 05:47 PM
Rob:
After you drill the holes for the braid drops you may want to consider taking a square file to the tops of the holes and "square" them out. This allows the braid to make a perfect 90 degree drop instead of having the braid kind of curl up at the sides as it goes down the through the round hole. Most guys don't take the time to do this and it seems to work out OK, but I did it on my track and the cars seem to run smoother at the joints with zero lift.
Jay Guard
IRRA Board of Directors (2022-Present),
Gator Region Retro Racing Director (2021-Present)
SERRA Co-Director (2009-2013)
IRRA BoD advisor (2007-2010)
Team Slick 7 member (1998-2001)
Way too serious Retro racer
Backmarker
Posted 09 January 2025 - 12:37 PM
Rob:
After you drill the holes for the braid drops you may want to consider taking a square file to the tops of the holes and "square" them out. This allows the braid to make a perfect 90 degree drop instead of having the braid kind of curl up at the sides as it goes down the through the round hole. Most guys don't take the time to do this and it seems to work out OK, but I did it on my track and the cars seem to run smoother at the joints with zero lift.
Thanks Jay, I will do that when I get there.
Backmarker
Posted 09 January 2025 - 12:48 PM
Hi Fellow Slotters,
I have started the sidewall installation at the loop section of the track. I have installed the first layer of 1/4" hardboard (Masonite) to the track edge on the outside of the loop. I started at the one joint block and ended up about 30 inches from the next joint block. Once I get that last first layer on I will add the second 1/4" layer. The first layer was glued and screwed to the track edge and L-brackets then stapled 3/4" down from the track top surface and into the L-bracket that is attached to the underside of the track. I will now carry on with the remaining sidewalls that I have access to while the track is assembled.
Backmarker
Posted 21 January 2025 - 04:13 PM
Update: The first full thickness 1/2" wall is installed and the ends are trimmed at the joint block seams for the next section. A bit of a learning curve and prepping for the process but I vertically trimmed sawed (4.5" 40t carbide blade) the two laminations of 1/4" thick hardboard wall around the loop today and installed the screws permanently. I will attempt to do the inside radius of the loop but will use 3/8" thick flexi plywood for the first inner wall and 1/8" thick flexi for the outer wall. The straights will be 1/2" MDF. The loop has a max 2.5 degree bank mid section and a consistent incline to the bridge. The bridge center is zero bank (level) and twist into a positive chamber bank into the lead-in to the back straight-away. I purchased fifteen more 6" bar clamps from Harbor freight. I like them because at $3.49ea with a bar latch and fine thread clamp screw they are the best deal around for doing the sidewalls. Anyways things are moving along slow but moving. My help gets sick and bad weather. The basement is comfortable.
