184 replies to this topic

[Jay Guard]

Rob:

After you drill the holes for the braid drops you may want to consider taking a square file to the tops of the holes and "square" them out.  This allows the braid to make a perfect 90 degree drop instead of having the braid kind of curl up at the sides as it goes down the through the round hole.  Most guys don't take the time to do this and it seems to work out OK, but I did it on my track and the cars seem to run smoother at the joints with zero lift.

[Bigdogbro1]

Rob:

After you drill the holes for the braid drops you may want to consider taking a square file to the tops of the holes and "square" them out.  This allows the braid to make a perfect 90 degree drop instead of having the braid kind of curl up at the sides as it goes down the through the round hole.  Most guys don't take the time to do this and it seems to work out OK, but I did it on my track and the cars seem to run smoother at the joints with zero lift.

Thanks Jay, I will do that when I get there.

[Bigdogbro1]

Hi Fellow Slotters,

 

I have started the sidewall installation at the loop section of the track.  I have installed the first layer of 1/4" hardboard (Masonite) to the track edge on the outside of the loop.  I started at the one joint block and ended up about 30 inches from the next joint block.  Once I get that last first layer on I will add the second 1/4" layer.  The first layer was glued and screwed to the track edge and L-brackets then stapled 3/4" down from the track top surface and into the L-bracket that is attached to the underside of the track.  I will now carry on with the remaining sidewalls that I have access to while the track is assembled.

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[Bigdogbro1]

Update:  The first full thickness 1/2" wall is installed and the ends are trimmed at the joint block seams for the next section.  A bit of a learning curve and prepping for the process but I vertically trimmed sawed (4.5" 40t carbide blade) the two laminations of 1/4" thick hardboard wall around the loop today and installed the screws permanently.  I will attempt to do the inside radius of the loop but will use 3/8" thick flexi plywood for the first inner wall and 1/8" thick flexi for the outer wall.  The straights will be 1/2" MDF.  The loop has a max 2.5 degree bank mid section and a consistent incline to the bridge.  The bridge center is zero bank (level) and twist into a positive chamber bank into the lead-in to the back straight-away.  I purchased fifteen more 6" bar clamps from Harbor freight.  I like them because at $3.49ea with a bar latch and fine thread clamp screw they are the best deal around for doing the sidewalls.  Anyways things are moving along slow but moving.  My help gets sick and bad weather.  The basement is comfortable.

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[Bigdogbro1]

I have 99% completed the track loop end sidewalls...wow that was an effort let me tell you.  I have had help with all that as it is difficult sizing, gluing, bending, stapling and screwing on the sidewall sheets.  Now that the loop end of the track is done I can move on to the back straights and 20 degree bank turn final setup and sidewalls.  The straights will be a bit easier as I will be using 1/2" MDF sheet.  I have all the electrical components, wire, crimps, barrier strips and connectors ready to go.  I am still unsure of the track topcoat paint and I'm looking into a colorized oil-base Polyurethane and will need to do some traction testing with different tire material compounds but that's down the road a ways.  Keepin On.....

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[Bigdogbro1]

I had a day open so I made my Alligator clip to XLR plug adaptor cable and a 3ft. XLR extension cable.  All 12ga silicone fine stran wire and ready for use.

 

I have the 1/2" MDF sidewalls installed on the outside of the back straight done and moving onto the 20 degree bank turn.

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[Bigdogbro1]

Another small 3D printed project I wanted is this tire cleaning station.  Sponges for IPA and fine sandpaper for scuffing if needed.

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[Bigdogbro1]

I had 25+ friends over last Sunday to help move the track over 3 inches to get access on the smaller banked turn sidewall at the basement support post.  With that now done I have been adding more sidewalls to the track.  The project is coming together very well and I will be separating a few sections to get room to add the final sidewalls and trimming the tops and bottoms.

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[Bigdogbro1]

Well since moving the track I have done more sidewalls.  Going to install the back straight-away walls to get those finished up today.  I have a plan to jockey the sections around to get to those turns and the one front short straight.   You can see that the turns all have two layers of 1/4" hardboard or two layers of Flexi-Plywood for the tighter radius turns.  I did each layer separately.  Glued and stapled each layer and added screws at the L-brackets on the last layer.  Here are pictures from last weeks effort.

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[Bigdogbro1]

As I continue around the track I tape the joint block seam ends with 3M plastic silver color HVAC tape.  I tape the joint tongues or the entire joint block side depending on which end I'm starting from.  This keeps the 1st layer of sidewall from gluing to the next track section.  I also tape the sidewall ends of the previous finished sidewall so that the next sidewall section going on won't not get glued to the previous end.

 

While I have the track sections pulled apart I brush on some Varathane Oil-base Polyurethane at the slots and joint seam to prep for the braid drop hole drilling.  Before separating the joint blocks I removed any leg shims, readjusted the legs for floor contact and locked the leg with a screw.  I need to touch-up the butt ends of the track surface with more Polyeruathane between the slots.  Doing this now should help keep the seam butt ends from sticking together when I later Polyurethane the entire track surface when reassembled.

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