169 replies to this topic

[Bigdogbro1]

On a side project I finished the designs and 3D printed my control station panels and controller holders.  The holders slip over the edge of 1/2" MDF and held on with a #6 screw and saved me money.  Easy on and off controller access with the DiFalco controllers.

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[Bigdogbro1]

Started my slot routing.  Trying to get better dust collection from the router but making progress.

 

The slot depth is set at .315" to .322" that's 5/16" to 8mm.   Making a single pass only so full attention is key here running the router template pins along the track edge for the first slot and pins in the slot for the next three slots.  A bit nerve racking the first time building a track. 

 

 

 

 

[Dave Crevie]

[Bill from NH]

This is going to be a nice track Rob!

[Bigdogbro1]

aaaarbrutrk1 (2).jpg

Hi Dave,

Thanks for rotating the picture.  Did you do that using the posting tools or download it and repost it?

[MSwiss]

What I've seen is if you do the tiniest of crops, that will lock the pic in the orientation you want it.

 

As a moderator, that's how I fixed your post.

[Dave Crevie]

I used the snipping tool. Snipped it, and rotated it.

 

Sometimes it is better to download from your camera or cellphone to some kind of photo software, where you can access it from the "more reply options" feature at the bottom of this window. In the photo program, you should get an icon or button that will rotate the photo to the orientation you want.  

 

I use Microsoft Photo Gallery because that is what came with the computer, and it is fast and easy to use. I don't have to "fire it up", there is an icon on the lower tool bar that takes me there instantly. The photo screen looks like this;

 

 

 

Down in the lower right corner, (circled in red) are the buttons which allow you to manipulate the photo. Rotate right, rotate left, delete, zoom and crop. Most photo reader programs have these options. 

 

My smartphone (Samsung) lets me rotate photos in the archive. But I know not all phones can do this. If the photo appears in the cellphone screen right side up when you hold the phone in it's natural upright position, it should download right side up.

 

In the future, if a photo comes out cattywhompus and you want it straightened out, just say so in the post, and I'll take care of it. Only takes seconds. 

[MSwiss]

Dave, 

You're turning this into a project.

 

Rob is building his own commercial style slot car track.

 

I'm sure he has a cell phone that doesn't have a rotary dial and can edit/post his own pic.

 

You take the pic, you click on it immediately. 

 

The cropping option will come up.

 

You nip the tiniest bit off the top or bottom and it will post correctly oriented.

 

PS-the issue is all based on taking a pic of a somewhat tall/long vertical object in the portrait mode.

[Dave Crevie]

Tried that long ago when we discussed this before. Doesn't work with my phone. I can crop/trim but the photo will stay oriented the way it is.

[MSwiss]

I have a Samsung/Android phone. 

 

It's always worked for me and cured the issue for others.

[Brian Czeiner]

Started my slot routing.  Trying to get better dust collection from the router but making progress.

 

The slot depth is set at .315" to .322" that's 5/16" to 8mm.   Making a single pass only so full attention is key here running the router template pins along the track edge for the first slot and pins in the slot for the next three slots.  A bit nerve racking the first time building a track. 

 

 

 

I've gone back and looked but couldn't find a picture of the router jig you are using to go off of the track edge. Could you post a picture of it please? Thank you.

[Bigdogbro1]

Hi Brian,

 

Here are picture of my router template used to cut the slots.

 

I used 1/2" thick Lexan but you can use most anything that is flat and strong.  I had it CNC cut out and I drilled in the holes the were centered from the CNC.  The pins are 1/8" diameter steel that I had and I ground down a small flat on each to get them just under the router bit diameter and slide easily in the cut groove.  The pins are pushed into the holes and hold very well.  Because this is for short term use I felt there was no need to get fancy and I didn't have any axles or spur gears to use like Steve Ogilvie uses.  The inner pins are 4" on center and 4" from the bit for lane spacing.  The outer pins are 5" spaced and 5" from the bit.  Make sure that the pin holes are sized for a push fit to the dowel pin used.

 

When using this method you need to make sure that your track edge is smooth and flawless, no bumps or divets in the 1/2" MDF edge.  The pins also do not go past the bottom 1/2" edge as they could catch on a bracket or joint block.  All those get flush sanded down berfore attaching the side walls.  The pins also are raised up from the bottom of the slot groove by a 1/16" when routing in your 2nd and other slots.

 

Keep a firm hold on the router unit and apply force down low to keep the pins on the MDF edge on your outside first cut.  My 1/8" router bit was set to .325" depth and that seemed to work well for me.  Clean and sand prep each finished slot before moving to the next one.  Go easy on the feed and let the bit do the work.  Straights are easier to slide thru than the turns are.  Some downward pressure is recommmended as well.  I traversed about 3/4" to 1" per second at router full speed RPM's.  The 1/8" double flute carbide bits were purchased from Slotcar Corner.  I purchased two in case I broke one but I am almost finished and still on the first bit.

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Attached Files

•  PC Plunge Router Slotcar Track Jig.PDF   82.1KB   1 downloads

[Bigdogbro1]

I have a Samsung/Android phone. 

 

It's always worked for me and cured the issue for others.

Thank you both for your comments on editing the photos.

[Bigdogbro1]

I did the gains grooves next after all the slots were cut after a thorough sanding and vacuumed clean.  I used the 3/4" diameter centered 1/8" pin double tip carbide bit from Slotcar Corner and it works very well.  I cleaned out the slot grooves with the end of a near 1/8" thick hand file and vacuumed more.  I set my cut depth to about .040".  The Slotcar Corner braid without the 3M paper carrier backing measured .025" thick so that gives me around .015" braid depth below the surface of the track in a perfect world.  

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[Dave Crevie]

Like the jig. Like even more that you did a blueline for it.

[Brian Czeiner]

Thank you. I was wondering how you got the inside corners so far from the edge without much elliptical geometry happening. The 5 x 5 measurements explain that. The jig we used back in the day use roller bearings guiding the edge. Spacing was also 11 or 12 inches apart between the rollers giving a dive down into the corner effect of the lanes. A second jig similar to what you pictured did the lane spacing.  Nice!

[Bigdogbro1]

Here is a handy tool for checking the grooves and gaines cut depth.  It's a depth gauge for tire tread but it reads in MM, fraction of inch and decimal which is what I wanted.  Purchased from Amazon for $19 instead of a machinist depth gauge for $125.  It is very repeatable and accurate plus you can span the slot gooves and gains groove to measure each side for uniformity.  I had discovered that the gains grooves were not uniform due to deviations in the track surface not being perfectly flat before routing.  This tool helped me get things correct and consistant and it's much easier to use than digital calipers.  

 

I did decide to cut the gains depth a bit deeper to .045" to get a bit more fudge factor.  Steve Ogilvie makes multiple passes and rotates the router 180 degrees during those passes to correct for any router tool tram misalignment.  

 

I am finishing up the remaning grooves and gains then I will drill the braid drop holes and the joint blocks.

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[Bill from NH]

Rob, I like your depth gauge. It may not be quite as accurate as a machinist tool, but slot car tracks aren't built to a machinist's standard, Plus, they move around with humidity & temperature changes.

[Bigdogbro1]

I was told by Steve Ogilvie to drill the braid drop holes last after painting the track.  I had about two weeks without much track work done due to the slotcar NSR Eastern Nationals nearby and Thanksgiving so now I'm back at it again and beginning to assemble the track sections after some emails back and forth with Steve O.  Assembling the inner straights, sweeper under the bridge, the donut and the lead-on over the bridge back into the back straights.  Setting up the track and bending in the small banking/camber, incline and twist transitions then attempt to apply sidewalls where I can get access to, to start.  Once I get the setup completed I will lock in the bridge overpass/underpass sections somehow before the sidwalls go on.

 

I had my sidewall materials ripped and ready to use before the cold weather and snow arrived here.  Saturday after Thanksgiving   a friend helped out setting up the track for assembly and banking.  Twisting, banking and elevating the donut and bridge area is taking time to ease the twisting camber angles and get it right before the sidewalls get attached.  

 

The last bridge height picture is the exit side (see sticker on the 4x4 end).

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[Bigdogbro1]

One last picture of the prep for the sidewalls.  This side is the counterclockwise track travel entering under the bridge.

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