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Amateur Cox Chap resto attempt


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#26 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 28 June 2024 - 05:17 PM

The neck is more of a problem than the head I think.


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#27 Martin

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Posted 28 June 2024 - 06:16 PM

Mark, there are 3 styles of Cox heads. I like the one that is not flattened on top, possibly to give more room under a roof.

The one that is the smallest is the GT40 head A.K.A Ken Miles. This one. Not mine. credit to JHW.

 

Screenshot (2270).png

 

These are some I have painted. 

 

I think they would be appropriate for this resto IMO.

 

102_5902.JPG

 

drivers.JPG3.JPGheads.JPG

 

"We are watching you", said the unfinished heads without bodies. :shok:  


Martin Windmill

#28 Mad Mark

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Posted 28 June 2024 - 06:36 PM

Mark, there are 3 styles of Cox heads. I like the one that is not flattened on to, possibly to give more room under a roof.
The one that is the smallest is the GT40 head A.K.A Ken Miles. 
 
These are some I have painted. 
 
I think they would be appropriate for this resto IMO.
 
102_5902.JPG
 
drivers.JPG3.JPGheads.JPG
 
"We are watching you", said the unfinished heads without bodies. :shok:  

I have a two piece driver that I think is a cox gt40 driver with the head molded in and his left leg is under his other leg Instead of chopped off. that one seems to small of scale though.
Mark Haas

#29 Martin

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Posted 28 June 2024 - 06:52 PM

Agreed, I always thought it was too small and I do not like the driving position. Who drives like that?

 

But it is Cox and it is smaller. So I thought you could just use the head if you thought the other heads were too big.

 

I still preferer the full rounded head in flesh tone. The flesh color they molded it in is hard to beat.

 

P.S. I added a pic of Ken Post 27.


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#30 Mad Mark

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Posted 28 June 2024 - 07:24 PM

Agreed, I always thought it was too small and I do not like the driving position. Who drives like that?
 
But it is Cox and it is smaller. So I thought you could just use the head if you thought the other heads were too big.
 
I still preferer the full rounded head in flesh tone. The flesh color they molded it in is hard to beat.
 
P.S. I added a pic of Ken Post 27.

Yup that’s him haha. yeah sorta awkward driving position. think I’ll just use a more in between standard sized head.
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#31 Mad Mark

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Posted 29 June 2024 - 11:21 AM

This is pretty good. Also on hold till i figure out what color I want to paint this thing.
7795DF7F-38D2-4D5B-A52C-BD07460CD72C.jpeg
Mark Haas

#32 Bill from NH

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Posted 29 June 2024 - 03:28 PM

Most any flat color will look good with the white body, but I liked my helmets gloss. I also liked to paint a contrasting color down the driver's sleeves. If you can find any HO sponsor decals, they make good uniform patches.


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#33 Mad Mark

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Posted 29 June 2024 - 04:09 PM

Most any flat color will look good with the white body, but I liked my helmets gloss. I also liked to paint a contrasting color down the driver's sleeves. If you can find any HO sponsor decals, they make good uniform patches.


It was gloss black till I got my grubby fingers on semi wet paint pen grrr. gives it a little depth atleast. i Actually have some 1/24 driver suit decals somewhere. also finally got a some panel liner paint I used some on the drivers face. should look good on the driver body after paint.
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Mark Haas

#34 Martin

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Posted 29 June 2024 - 10:44 PM

That's the Lancer head. Which I call the "light bulb" head. 


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Martin Windmill

#35 Mad Mark

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Posted 30 June 2024 - 11:17 AM

That's the Lancer head. Which I call the "light bulb" head.

Molded in a sickly skin tone made worse with my wash. heres the chassis that I cleaned up a little. i coated it with what I was told was EDM cutting fluid. might keep some flash oxidation off for a little.
E9272D56-42F2-4843-97E2-7975A891C9BA.jpeg
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Mark Haas

#36 Mad Mark

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Posted 30 June 2024 - 02:10 PM

So I ordered repro decals guess Im going with a replica. Im still tempted to do a just finished a race appearance with brake dust and road grime along with rock pits on nose patina but not sure I can pull it off.

problem with the as raced look is Id want to go crazy making everything super scale which would mean making injector stacks and exhaust etc. would end up snow balling. hmmmm.
Mark Haas

#37 Martin

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Posted 30 June 2024 - 06:23 PM

I do like to paint a few at a time. Saving brush cleaning and paint mixing etc.

Hope this give you some ideas for what you want to do. The blue suits with the white belts are for RTR Lotus 40s.

 

I mostly make stuff up and not get to into who had what badge at what race. What makes you happy works every time. :good:

 

Screenshot drivers 60per.png


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#38 Mad Mark

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Posted 30 June 2024 - 07:52 PM

I do like to paint a few at a time. Saving brush cleaning and paint mixing etc.
Hope this give you some ideas for what you want to do. The blue suits with the white belts are for RTR Lotus 40s.
 
I mostly make stuff up and not get to into who had what badge at what race. What makes you happy works every time. :good:
 
attachicon.gif Screenshot drivers 60per.png

Your paint looks great. very nice coverage. i seem to have a problem brush painting my figures. I’m going to try air brushing this guy this time and see how it turns out.
Mark Haas

#39 Bill from NH

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Posted 30 June 2024 - 08:24 PM

Mark what are you using for brushes? I think red sable bristle brushes are the best, I still use mine from the '70s.


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#40 Mad Mark

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Posted 01 July 2024 - 01:58 PM

Mark what are you using for brushes? I think red sable bristle brushes are the best, I still use mine from the '70s.


Just super cheapy I’m guessing synthetic ones. i should try to get one or two quality brushes that actually hold paint.
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#41 Mad Mark

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Posted 01 July 2024 - 02:13 PM

driver airbrushed with a wash applied. seatbelts are fine line vinyl masking tape. of course I had to ruin the look with glue globs. again Im not a model car builder so not super good at this! Hah.
E194BE5C-5E82-4EA8-AABA-4F726D6E9463.jpeg

was about to start painting the body white and forgot I needed to assemble the whole front end to mold in before painting. quite the process I painted the exposed areas of the headlight recess black before applying the factory chrome inner lenses to the lower valance. i tacked the headlights to the body with CA to not get any fogging. i then put a ton of e6000 to really hold everything together good and pretty much filled that whole space with the stuff. i hate having to worry about stuff being fragile so I might have ruined the affect of the headlights but it should be pretty strong once I bondo everything together. also some more bubbles will probably come out when the e6000 dries all the way.
483491B1-C78E-4531-B9BC-FB1F07AFD097.jpeg
also trying to come up with a way to get a nice trim line around the headlights to clean that edge up and paint black. may sound silly but maybe mask off after paint and use black rtv thinnned out hmmm.
Mark Haas

#42 Mad Mark

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Posted 02 July 2024 - 11:20 AM

Looks a little lumpy and rough in pictures but better than OEM I reckon.

535BAF82-5AE5-4E84-A196-34A4A1ABA2AD.jpeg

F0D31479-3650-41A6-8CF8-AA0D01461F93.jpeg
Mark Haas

#43 Mad Mark

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Posted 03 July 2024 - 02:23 PM

Got some paint down. This dang Createx goes on so thin at this rate Im going to need to do 20 more coats to get this solid white and not super light gray. Nice to not bury details, at least. Also might have ruined the outer headlights fogging paint in them. Didn't realize they where exposed till after I blasted fender wells... grrr.
 
8BC802A9-2A1E-466A-8DFB-9BB6C6EB2014.jpeg
 
5858BCD6-A267-4719-9E1B-49F841B11218.jpeg
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#44 Mad Mark

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Posted 07 July 2024 - 10:00 AM

So I’m wondering about clearing over the water slide decals. I have Spraymax 1k acrylic and it flashes very fast and seems to like heavy close to surface spraying. Guess I’ll test on some other plastic to see if it shrivels the decals or melts them off.


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#45 Mad Mark

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Posted 07 July 2024 - 10:02 AM

I also have some urethane clear but I didn’t look at the can close when I bought it and seems like it’s for wood and furniture. Not sure if that’s good for anything I’m trying to do.
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#46 Mad Mark

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Posted 07 July 2024 - 05:28 PM

Tried my Spraymax clear on one of the little side scoops and it instantly reacted and crinkled the paint. I sprayed it on really heavy so perhaps it needs a light mist first.

 

Also the white Createx paint has been dry for multiple days. I've also sprayed this over other Createx white and it was fine so guess just needs a light coat.


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#47 Mad Mark

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Posted 09 July 2024 - 12:50 PM

So doing some tests before I ruin paint along with decals. ive ruined enough paint jobs in the past to where Im not going to take any chances. I tried the urethane and it lays down really nice and smooth. the clear is slightly warmer in hue and seems like it takes way longer to dry. i tested the spraymax again with three light mist coats which leaves the surface pretty rough for thicker coats to cover. I only let the createx dry about 30 minutes before spraying so guess light coats is the trick. Going to let test forks dry a day and if the urethane passes the fingernail scrape test Im going to use that. i know the spray max is super tough though.

Left is urethane very shiny and smooth. the right spraymax is a little lumpy and not as deep looking.
2BB2FBF8-2B6C-4079-BC30-6DC196D6AE95.jpeg
Mark Haas

#48 Mad Mark

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Posted 10 July 2024 - 04:05 PM

Quite stressful. the repro decals are very thin. ended up using some old 60s waterslides mixed in. Going for Sebring livery I suppose.
B655A5E4-7B80-4B38-A138-18ECF8F4D64D.jpeg
Buggered up the SP and old firestone was cracked in half. eh good enough for me I reckon.
844993B7-E350-4658-A960-7225E308376D.jpeg
think Im going to clear like this and put the number 3 over the clear to avoid ruining those big side decals.
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Mark Haas

#49 dc-65x

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Posted 10 July 2024 - 04:55 PM

Hi Mark,

 

I've had good luck with a tip Jairus suggested, spraying Testors clear lacquer over old decals. It can even help to hold together already cracked decals so they go on in one piece. I've also used it on those sometimes super thin repro decals to make them easier to work with.


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#50 Mad Mark

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Posted 10 July 2024 - 10:36 PM

Hi Mark,
 
I've had good luck with a tip Jairus suggested, spraying Testors clear lacquer over old decals. It can even help to hold together already cracked decals so they go on in one piece. I've also used it on those sometimes super thin repro decals to make them easier to work with.

Good tip thanks! Will come in handy for my stash of old decals.
Mark Haas





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