82 replies to this topic

[Martin]

Just to be clear (pun intended) do you cut the decals close to the image and then spray with clear, or just spray the hole sheet paper and all ?

 

I would love to give it a go but always had that question.

[dc-65x]

I spray the whole decal sheet. If you put the clear on too thick you will have to cut around the vintage decal to free it from the sheet, just as we do for most modern repo decals anyway. For decals that aren't already cracked I just use a lighter coat and no cutting around the decal is necessary.

 

Just experiment with some old decals and you'll come up with a technique that will work for you. 

[Dave Crevie]

I concur with Rick/Jairus in spraying the sheet lightly with clear, but I use Testors flat clear on the sheet. Then once the decals are on the car, I go over the whole thing with Testors glosscoat. The clear decal surrounding the printed image will disappear. 

 

 

If the decal starts to break up during transfer, add a drop of water and use a toothpick to float the pieces into position.

[Larry Horner]

I know the original car had it too but there is an irony of having a Cox sticker on a Monogram body. Nicely done 2D Dave! As a side note, I recently 3D printed the body mount gizmo that allows you to mount this body on the Monogram chassis designed for it. Professor motor used to sell them but they have been out of stock for over a year. If anyone needs this part, I can send you the STL file and you can print your own.

[Mad Mark]

coming out pretty good for my low skill level so far. my plan was to mask body and go back over the interior with flat black so I didnt mask It super good and got a light dusting of white inside. it almost adds a little depth and Im tempted to just leave it and maybe just brush touch up some areas.

need to make a mirror, apply numbers, and glue assorted parts on still.




Guess this sort of turned out a mix of being somewhat OEM with little detail touches. i was really avoiding it snowballing into a scale replica and overdoing it.

[Martin]

What a great save Mark, well done  Love the red tips. I did that on a motorcycle I had in 71. It just felt cool at the time. 

 

I just noticed you are missing 2 exhaust.

 

Do you need me to search my bits box?

 

I believe this looks like your car and the number should be #3 . Notice black roll bar which looks great on your car IMO.

12 Hours of Sebring, March 27, 1965. Jim Hall qualified on the pole in the beautiful No. 3 Chaparral 2A Chevrolet, and he and co-driver Hap Sharp won the race by four laps.

 

[Dave Crevie]

Superb result Mark, especially considering what you started with. Can-Am cars mostly used just sedan mirrors during this time. Like this Raydot, which you can find in just about every AMT 3-in-1 kit. The teams came up with innovative ways to mount them up high so the driver could see over the high rear of the car.

 

 

Here's what the Chappy boys did;

 

[Mad Mark]

What a great save Mark, well done  Love the red tips. I did that on a motorcycle I had in 71. It just felt cool at the time. 
 
I just noticed you are missing 2 exhaust.
 
Do you need me to search my bits box?
 
I believe this looks like your car and the number should be #3 . Notice black roll bar which looks great on your car IMO.
12 Hours of Sebring, March 27, 1965. Jim Hall qualified on the pole in the beautiful No. 3 Chaparral 2A Chevrolet, and he and co-driver Hap Sharp won the race by four laps.
 
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Thank you. the red is how it came it’s kinda neat and the chrome is nice enough to where I don’t want to ruin it removing the red paint. and yes the Sebring #3 is what I was going for. seems the decals I have are modeled after that car no #65 or #66 so no choice.

[Mad Mark]

Superb result Mark, especially considering what you started with. Can-Am cars mostly used just sedan mirrors during this time. Like this Raydot, which you can find in just about every AMT 3-in-1 kit. The teams came up with innovative ways to mount them up high so the driver could see over the high rear of the car.
 
araydot.JPG
 
Here's what the Chappy boys did;
 
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achappymirro2.JPG

I have some chrome parts tree revell mirrors I’m going to modify to accept some brass pin tube and pins for mirror stalk. about only part missing from this body surprisingly.

[Mad Mark]

My idea of a mirror stalk along with a repainted interior. much better. starting to glue stuff. Im using e6000 dont want to deal with melted stuff.

[Mad Mark]

Good enough

[Bill from NH]

Good enough
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This looks like a clean build Mark. Nice job!

[Martin]

   

[Dave Crevie]

Perfect!!! 

[Mad Mark]

Thanks to everyone offering parts I appreciate it. maybe on the next one Ill take up some offers!

[Martin]

Couple of things if you have them in mind ?

 

What happened to the exhaust pipes?

 

Don't forget the Bosch sticker on the nose? (see pic I sent) 

[Larry Horner]

Looks awesome Mark! And I actually like the cracked windshield with the tape on it. Makes it look like a real racing verteran.

[Dave Crevie]

Looks awesome Mark! And I actually like the cracked windshield with the tape on it. Makes it look like a real racing verteran.

 

Exactly what I thought.

[Mad Mark]

Couple of things if you have them in mind ?
 
What happened to the exhaust pipes?
 
Don't forget the Bosch sticker on the nose? (see pic I sent)

They are lightly glued on now didn’t have them on for pics. i was going to do a matching sticker on the nose but since I used vintage stickers (didn’t like the repro ones at all) I only had two.

[Martin]

I am sure I have extra decals Mark. Just P.M. me.

[Mad Mark]

Next possible victim. i have what looks like a semi nice gt40 body on the way. looks like maybe hacked out rear fenders but otherwise not bad. Whats fun about doing these restos is you really figure out exactly how every nut and bolt is supposed to be to be OEM correct.

[Mad Mark]

Great now I have the cox bug. I’ll have enough parts on the way for two more cars/restos.

[Mad Mark]

new body. better shape than I thought actually. plastic just a little melted above side intake from Interior glue.

does anyone have a good thread that outlines all the variations of these Cox cars? Like was this body a RTR? i know theirs a few drop arm styles, front axle carriers, threaded tapered and freewheeling axles etc..

think Ill leave this one as is and have a runner. this body seems a little more robust than the chap!


yes has wrong front tires and needs knock offs on rear.

[Martin]

I can answer your question "Like was this body a RTR?" Cox did make a RTR and it came with a steerable front end and paper numbers and stripe.

So I can safely say this body you have is not a RTR and was built from a kit. All the parts were sold individually but more that likly a boxed kit.

 

This is a RTR I have. notice no driver in place either. 

 

[Martin]

......and a mint RTR saved in my picture folder. Here on its RTR box.   Fully Assembled Race Ready

 

 

hope this helps.

Looks like the one you have is in good shape and should be good driver with a little tune up.