Just to be clear (pun intended) do you cut the decals close to the image and then spray with clear, or just spray the hole sheet paper and all ?
I would love to give it a go but always had that question.
Posted 10 July 2024 - 11:51 PM
Just to be clear (pun intended) do you cut the decals close to the image and then spray with clear, or just spray the hole sheet paper and all ?
I would love to give it a go but always had that question.
Posted 11 July 2024 - 08:28 AM
I spray the whole decal sheet. If you put the clear on too thick you will have to cut around the vintage decal to free it from the sheet, just as we do for most modern repo decals anyway. For decals that aren't already cracked I just use a lighter coat and no cutting around the decal is necessary.
Just experiment with some old decals and you'll come up with a technique that will work for you.
Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...
Posted 11 July 2024 - 09:08 AM
I concur with Rick/Jairus in spraying the sheet lightly with clear, but I use Testors flat clear on the sheet. Then once the decals are on the car, I go over the whole thing with Testors glosscoat. The clear decal surrounding the printed image will disappear.
If the decal starts to break up during transfer, add a drop of water and use a toothpick to float the pieces into position.
Posted 11 July 2024 - 09:30 AM
I know the original car had it too but there is an irony of having a Cox sticker on a Monogram body. Nicely done 2D Dave! As a side note, I recently 3D printed the body mount gizmo that allows you to mount this body on the Monogram chassis designed for it. Professor motor used to sell them but they have been out of stock for over a year. If anyone needs this part, I can send you the STL file and you can print your own.
Posted 11 July 2024 - 10:32 AM
Posted 11 July 2024 - 10:50 AM
What a great save Mark, well done Love the red tips. I did that on a motorcycle I had in 71. It just felt cool at the time.
I just noticed you are missing 2 exhaust.
Do you need me to search my bits box?
I believe this looks like your car and the number should be #3 . Notice black roll bar which looks great on your car IMO.
12 Hours of Sebring, March 27, 1965. Jim Hall qualified on the pole in the beautiful No. 3 Chaparral 2A Chevrolet, and he and co-driver Hap Sharp won the race by four laps.
Posted 11 July 2024 - 12:50 PM
Superb result Mark, especially considering what you started with. Can-Am cars mostly used just sedan mirrors during this time. Like this Raydot, which you can find in just about every AMT 3-in-1 kit. The teams came up with innovative ways to mount them up high so the driver could see over the high rear of the car.
Here's what the Chappy boys did;
Posted 11 July 2024 - 01:59 PM
Thank you. the red is how it came it’s kinda neat and the chrome is nice enough to where I don’t want to ruin it removing the red paint. and yes the Sebring #3 is what I was going for. seems the decals I have are modeled after that car no #65 or #66 so no choice.What a great save Mark, well done Love the red tips. I did that on a motorcycle I had in 71. It just felt cool at the time.
I just noticed you are missing 2 exhaust.
Do you need me to search my bits box?
I believe this looks like your car and the number should be #3 . Notice black roll bar which looks great on your car IMO.
12 Hours of Sebring, March 27, 1965. Jim Hall qualified on the pole in the beautiful No. 3 Chaparral 2A Chevrolet, and he and co-driver Hap Sharp won the race by four laps.
post-1623-1665654211.jpg
Posted 11 July 2024 - 02:01 PM
I have some chrome parts tree revell mirrors I’m going to modify to accept some brass pin tube and pins for mirror stalk. about only part missing from this body surprisingly.Superb result Mark, especially considering what you started with. Can-Am cars mostly used just sedan mirrors during this time. Like this Raydot, which you can find in just about every AMT 3-in-1 kit. The teams came up with innovative ways to mount them up high so the driver could see over the high rear of the car.
araydot.JPG
Here's what the Chappy boys did;
achappymirro1.JPG
achappymirro2.JPG
Posted 11 July 2024 - 09:16 PM
This looks like a clean build Mark. Nice job!
Posted 12 July 2024 - 05:25 AM
Posted 12 July 2024 - 09:08 AM
Perfect!!!
Posted 12 July 2024 - 12:56 PM
Posted 12 July 2024 - 01:11 PM
Couple of things if you have them in mind ?
What happened to the exhaust pipes?
Don't forget the Bosch sticker on the nose? (see pic I sent)
Posted 12 July 2024 - 01:13 PM
Looks awesome Mark! And I actually like the cracked windshield with the tape on it. Makes it look like a real racing verteran.
Posted 12 July 2024 - 01:46 PM
Looks awesome Mark! And I actually like the cracked windshield with the tape on it. Makes it look like a real racing verteran.
Exactly what I thought.
Posted 12 July 2024 - 01:47 PM
They are lightly glued on now didn’t have them on for pics. i was going to do a matching sticker on the nose but since I used vintage stickers (didn’t like the repro ones at all) I only had two.Couple of things if you have them in mind ?
What happened to the exhaust pipes?
Don't forget the Bosch sticker on the nose? (see pic I sent)
Posted 12 July 2024 - 10:13 PM
I am sure I have extra decals Mark. Just P.M. me.
Posted 13 July 2024 - 09:57 PM
Posted 14 July 2024 - 11:29 PM
Posted 16 July 2024 - 11:22 AM
Posted 16 July 2024 - 12:19 PM
I can answer your question "Like was this body a RTR?" Cox did make a RTR and it came with a steerable front end and paper numbers and stripe.
So I can safely say this body you have is not a RTR and was built from a kit. All the parts were sold individually but more that likly a boxed kit.
This is a RTR I have. notice no driver in place either.