93 replies to this topic

[Mad Mark]

figured Id just start another thread. just got this very used chap. this body is in better shape in some places and worse in others compared to the last chap. Both front are rear fenders are cut and headlight lenses are missing.


looks like someone painted clearcoat all over the rear quarters and it has yellowed over the years


nicer cockpit and windshield than last car. edge of cockpit where windshield attaches is nice and dash is nice.


Crusty

[Mr. M]

I like the paint rubbed off the top of the helmet!

[Bill from NH]

The chrome parts appear to be in nice shape. Credit the missing roll bar for the missing helmet paint.

[Mad Mark]

was able to remove the lower valance and extract the chrome light bezel things. Ill save those for another project as Im still planning on molding whole front end in.


i was also able to get the windshield off pretty clean. i almost retained all the posts the go into the bpdy on it.


Driver was really in there. was difficult to pry out without causing damage that would need to be fixed later. ended up having to split the driver to extract.

[Mad Mark]

Very crusty bare chassis. my plan was to not use the steering front end but I totally forgot there is no drop arm on this chassis and I dont have one! Doh! Haha well guess cool steering is staying.


Ultra Sonicd body nice and almost bare. i sorta wanted to save the original decals but would be too much work to work around.


Nice clean slate. still scheming what to do. Id like to leave the bare white plastic so I think I have an idea.


Worst part of the body. this area needs a lot of attention and I couldnt remove the tail lights at the moment.

[Mad Mark]

Less crusty chassis. now comes the fun part of body work. think its time to learn how to work with styrene. also if I end up painting the whole body which I feel like I will, Im not using an airbrush again! that was way to little of coverage. Id be using tamiya rattle cans this time.

[Mad Mark]

Very precise body work underway. its funny my previous employment in the off-road industry had my slot car hobby skills transfer over and be useful and stuff I learned in that trade helped me with some slot car stuff. one thing I did was lots of body work and its all pretty much the same just different scales. everytime I mounted up a new fiberglass body panel I would think this is just like slot cars! Hah.


cracks all beveled out ready for bondo.


still wondering how to re do fenders. Im scheming a cheater way to not have to hand form new ones. like graft a plastic bottle cap or something that already has close to correct curvature.

[Mad Mark]

Im also tempted to get mold making putty and just mold my intact chap fenders and make correct ones like how Martin showed me. Hmmm.

[Martin]

Hey, fun project, thanks for the credits. 

I am looking the rear valance and what I would do is cut out all the damaged and split parts until I had clean plastic then cut fresh sterene to replace those missing parts.

It is always a thought process when it comes to any repair, but when it comes to fender flares my plan would be to cut and bend a semicircle of styrene  using  a slightly bigger temporary wheel and tire as a fixture. Use it to position and glue the base of a new flare.

I try and keep the fillers to a minimum. But at least you will a good solid styrene base on center to work with. Once you have your base your finger will be the best tool to blend into the roughed up body.

Have fun.

 

Happy to help you any time.

Martin.

[Martin]

I reread your last post. 

I do use the mold process if I want to capture details that would be hard to model any other way.

 

But reply above (post 9 ) was assuming you would do a more normal flare (full semicircle), not try and replicate the 3/4 add on fenderette found on the Cox car ?

[Mad Mark]

I reread your last post. 
I do use the mold process if I want to capture details that would be hard to model any other way.
 
But reply above (post 9 ) was assuming you would do a more normal flare (full semicircle), not try and replicate the 3/4 add on fenderette found on the Cox car ?

i looked for mold making putty and couldnt find any only liquid pour over silicone mold stuff. i bought some styrene, think Ill just make my own and like you said mount some oversized rear tires to get the flare centered and go from there.

rear end bondod up and some primer to see where I need some touch ups.

[Martin]

That looks great Mark.

 

Here are a couple of pics of flares I did on the K&B Cobra the method I mentioned. 

 

 

 

This is the product I use for a quick transfer of details.

 

[Mad Mark]

That looks great Mark.
 
Here are a couple of pics of flares I did on the K&B Cobra the method I mentioned. 
 
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This is the product I use for a quick transfer of details.
 
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Thanks Martin. so I tried using styrene for the first time and it’s harder to work with than people make it look. i have .060 x .250 strips and I can’t get smooth contours with it. I got it close and tried tacking it with tamiya thin cement and my flare just cracked where I applied the glue. Guess I need special styrene glue. anyone know if zap a gap ca works on it?

[Martin]

It was hard for me to find a difference in these products I tested. They all melt/weld styrene about the same. Some work fast, some too fast. The weld type products will soften the styrene. It will turn soft if wetted. And 2 wetted parts will bond forever.Welded

If you take your strips, lay them over a round shape close to what you want and warm with a heat gun, it goes fast. Careful. 

I only do this far away from the body. Hot water works too, just takes longer.

 

CAs will work too.Not as good as a welded bond though.

I have a range of, super thin, thin, standard, gap filling and even the black CA with rubber. None Shown here.You probably have them anyway? They all have there purpose as I am sure you know. 

Seems like it depends on if I am filling a gap or want a glue that will flow in a crack or even weld rough styrene shapes to re-shape. 

Test with scraps until you find what works for you. 

Oh yea, and do not sniff it 

 

[Dave Crevie]

Nice filler work, Mark.

 

Zap makes a CA specifically for styrene. It's call Plasti-Zap. I've been using it for years on hard body cars, and it can take a super solid hit and not break.

 

 

 

Works on resin bodies;

 

 

 

I even used it to make this little cutie;

 

[Mad Mark]

Nice filler work, Mark.
 
Zap makes a CA specifically for styrene. It's call Plasti-Zap. I've been using it for years on hard body cars, and it can take a super solid hit and not break.
 
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Works on resin bodies;
 
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I even used it to make this little cutie;
 
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Thank you sir and nice cars! got some roughed out flares to lay some putty on. Not super happy with the radius but this material is thick enough that I can shape it a little. main concern is making them solid.

[Mad Mark]

Work smarter not harder they say. This actually worked pretty good!

Fender flare radiuser 5000:

[Dave Crevie]

Thank you sir and nice cars! got some roughed out flares to lay some putty on. Not super happy with the radius but this material is thick enough that I can shape it a little. main concern is making them solid.
85D156F2-9398-49C8-9000-10F1F6E4056F.jpeg

 

Exactly. The less filler, the better.

[Mad Mark]

Roughed out first layer of filler:


i chamfered the top edge of fender to thin it out and give some more shape. also added another layer of filler:


Extra wide tires for a mock up. stock wheels and tires arent going to fill out these fenders Ill have to run some extra spacers and use a slightly wider tapered axle but thats way down the road.


happy with the fitment and radius now. just hope I can blend all this clean enough to look decent. Some pretty tricky areas to smooth.

[Martin]

Now that is really looking good Mark.

Just the way it happened in real life 1/1 racing too. As they came out with wider tires bodies got wider to accommodate.

This is going to be great.

[Mad Mark]

Now that is really looking good Mark.
Just the way it happened in real life 1/1 racing too. As they came out with wider tires bodies got wider to accommodate.
This is going to be great.

thanks! They are coming out pretty good so far. almost done with bondo smoothing on rear.


Just starting on molding nose in. so far so good.

[Dave Crevie]

Some alternate schnozzles if you want to do something different;

 

[Bill from NH]

The Russkit clear Chaparral body had the vent that went up & over the wind screen.

[Mad Mark]

Some alternate schnozzles if you want to do something different;
 
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i was quite tempted to add a diaplane on the front to match the aggressive flares but if I run this car I just feel it will be a wall/breakage magnet. so far molded in front end is looking good. not sure I’ll even scribe headlight outlines (I don’t really know how). maybe just paint something and outline it.

[Mad Mark]

at the point where I need wrap up the nose sanding/shaping and sand whole body and do a coat of primer to see where I’m at as far as touch ups. also I couldn’t get intakes or exhaust off so I’ll have to just mask them somehow so I don’t break them. also before I go any further I’d like to make a decision of swapping chassis around to make this a regular drop arm non steering chassis. The steering would look cool on my gt40 and the wheels match. I’d need to further repair the hacked out front fenders if I go with normal front end.