93 replies to this topic

[Mad Mark]

Nose sanding going good. been able to retain body lines pretty good so far.




this shaping and sanding is one of those things you can go crazy on and be pulling your hair out making it perfect. At some point you have to just tell yourself its good enough and stop!

[Mad Mark]

not bad. i think Im not letting the tamiya putty cure long enough or the paint has a reaction to it. all the patches always seem to shrink when paint is applied.

few little specks that need to filled here and there.

[Mad Mark]

i like this

[Mark Onofri]

Nice job on the front end. Looks just like the Corvair Monza GT/SS. I might be a little late on this but, I've found that the chromium pieces usually have a small alignment hole. If you look on the inside, most of the time, you can see it. If not, I use my rusty Exacto #2 to make a new hole. Another thing, Model Masters dried paint solvent also breaks down styrene cement, to a point.
Instead of flames,why not show off your work with a "I need sunglasses" black paint job? Another white Chaperell? That's what the world needs. Just like I need another red Ferrari.
PS: the Tamiya putty is fickle. I'd rather be more specific than that but I don't want to be reprimanded. The white seems harder but it has less grip and,is harder to feather. The grey is hit or miss. One extra pass and"poof" it's gone. There was a green putty that worked very well. Can't for the life of me remember who made it.
Anyone know?

[Martin]

My starter for 10.    Squadron? 

 

But my search revealed the green is not sold anymore.

 

Did find some chat on model forums. e.g.

 

" I've used up the last of my Squadron Green putty and it looks like it's no longer available....I love that stuff. One thing I really like is that it "melts" and bonds so well with styrene....and it's green so I can see it. Does Tamiya white putty work the same way? I've had good luck in the past with tubes of Bondo glazing and spot putty.

I always liked Squadron, bonded well, sanded well...hated testors, it always seemed to dry too fast as I was working with it.

Looking for some input over the loss of an old friend."

[Dave Crevie]

Incredable work so far. I have seen pictures of the car with all the headlights blanked out for a day race. Probably in one of my Chaparral books or one of the Can-Am books by Pete Lyons. 

 

Tamya putty suffers from a high shrink rate. You have to build it up in thin layers like the Bondo automotive spotting putty. DuPont makes a green spotting putty that I have always sworn is the same stuff as the Squadron green. You should still be able to get it at auto parts stores.

 

The Testors putty is nothing more than talc mixed with styrene glue. Too much shrinkage, too hard to sand. 

[Mad Mark]

Incredable work so far. I have seen pictures of the car with all the headlights blanked out for a day race. Probably in one of my Chaparral books or one of the Can-Am books by Pete Lyons. 
 
Tamya putty suffers from a high shrink rate. You have to build it up in thin layers like the Bondo automotive spotting putty. DuPont makes a green spotting putty that I have always sworn is the same stuff as the Squadron green. You should still be able to get it at auto parts stores.
 
The Testors putty is nothing more than talc mixed with styrene glue. Too much shrinkage, too hard to sand.

Thank you sir. yeah thinking maybe just a black outline of two front lights would be easiest and look cool. and you seem to be correct with the tamiya putty it’s way better put on very thin.

pretty much done with body work besides sanding whole body and cleaning up some glue where bottom rear edge of windshield attaches. Still not sure of a livery yet. I’d like somewhat of a rough interpretation of a chaparral of the period. might not do the brown/burgundy on the sides and either have it white or substitute at different color. almost want to do scallops on nose that was popular back then it seems.

[Mad Mark]

Also sorta want to make a brass LCG pan to attach to the chassis with guide tongue and front axle mounted to it.

[Martin]

I now only use Tamiya putty.

Mixed with lacquer thinner, can be applied in thin coats like thick paint.  Keeps the sanding step to a minimum. 

The lacque will remelt the putty, which can be used to your advantage.

 

Love watching this come together Mark. Maybe consider a fantasy Chaparral customer car.   

[Mad Mark]

I now only use Tamiya putty.
Mixed with lacquer thinner, can be applied in thin coats like thick paint.  Keeps the sanding step to a minimum. 
The lacque will remelt the putty, which can be used to your advantage.
 
Love watching this come together Mark. Maybe consider a fantasy Chaparral customer car.

Yeah I’ve been thinning it with lacquer thinner the stuff is almost dry by the time you put it on the body straight out of the tube. that’s exactly what I was thinking was a privateer type car. i have tons of number waterslides and gumballs but none with black outline. I’m too cheap to want to buy more repop decals so might do just straight black numbers. Unless USRRC rules state you need the white gumball.

[Dave Crevie]

If you have one of these, you can stick an ultra fine line Sharpie in it, and with some practice, make the outline around the roundel.

 

 

 

Although flame jobs were more attractive to the hot rod set, some roundy-round boys got into scallps. No reason your privateer Chaparral can't have scallops.

 

Agajanian used them;

 

 

Others, too;

 

 

 

But the hot rodders had the most;

 

[Mad Mark]

Still not sure what to do for livery also not sure how to mask off intake and zoomies and not have it look like crap. so I worked on interior and did lots of driver tuning to compared to last chap. lots of grinding and fitting to get driver down low and hand adjustments to get him to actually hold the steering wheel and have it straight.

[Mark Onofri]

Mmmmmmmm, scallops with linguine
(profusely drooling)

[Mark Onofri]

I've had luck with a paper hole punch. Punch the holes in a line,fold it over to get the centre and,cut it in half. If you're a masochist, you can also stick the punch outs 1/2 on a piece of tape. Tubing cut in 1/2 to form a punch is always a winner and gives you the option of multiple sizes.
Maybe wrapped in bacon
😛
💧

[Bill from NH]

Mark, have you thought of trying a liquid masking on the chrome parts that won't come unglued? There was a light yellow Chappy on Facebook a few days ago that looked real nice in the photos. It wasn't numbered but solid black would have looked great.

[Mad Mark]

Mark, have you thought of trying a liquid masking on the chrome parts that won't come unglued? There was a light yellow Chappy on Facebook a few days ago that looked real nice in the photos. It wasn't numbered but solid black would have looked great.

i haven’t thought of liquid mask I’ve never used it before. I’m sure I can find a way to mask them the bigger problem is it’s going to mess up my paint spraying them being in the way.

[Dave Crevie]

The round price stickers you can get at stationary stores make good masks for the roundels themselves. I've even used the small Slick 7 lane stickers. 1/2 inch dia. is probably the normal size you will need, although 5/8ths is better if you can find them. 3/4ths is probably the largest you will use.

 

 

 

The color doesn't matter since you will be painting over them.

[Martin]

This may be a case of too many cooks here, but I would consider cutting the chrome parts out from the bottom, base and all.

Then they can be made to look like they are separate from the body( like the real car) glued to a new bigger base and glued from the underside once the new base is painted flat black, and ofcourse after the body is painted.

 

This way they are not in the way anymore and can be set lower for a more realistic look.

[Mad Mark]

The round price stickers you can get at stationary stores make good masks for the roundels themselves. I've even used the small Slick 7 lane stickers. 1/2 inch dia. is probably the normal size you will need, although 5/8ths is better if you can find them. 3/4ths is probably the largest you will use.
 
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The color doesn't matter since you will be painting over them.

I’ve considered doing this but I still can’t figure out exactly what i want to do yet.

[Mad Mark]

This may be a case of too many cooks here, but I would consider cutting the chrome parts out from the bottom, base and all.
Then they can be made to look like they are separate from the body( like the real car) glued to a new bigger base and glued from the underside once the new base is painted flat black, and ofcourse after the body is painted.

i almost want to do this seems the only way to not destroy the parts. I’m kinda sick of doing body work at this point though and I’m looking to wrap this up soon. i also considered cutting the exhaust and injectors out and molding in the exhaust openings and making a scoop for the injector stack area since this is sorta a fantasy car. hmmm I’ll have to think about this the bent stacks really bug me and I know what gonna happen if I try to straighten them haha.

[Mad Mark]

After close inspection of the body I think cut the exhaust out, leave the openings, put some mesh in there to look cool, cut injectors out and make my own flared stacks out of brass, and then have exhaust rear underside exit with chrome tapered paint brush ferrules. this way I don’t have any body work besides cleaning up edges of cut out areas. should look pretty cool too.

[Mad Mark]

Will also add to the “privateer” look.

[Martin]

I have been making my intakes out of aluminum tube. Polish these and I think these will look the part ?

 

 

[Mark Onofri]

"Ive considered doing this but I still cant figure out exactly what i want to do yet."
Look at it like this:
If you knew what you were doing, you might not do anything.

[SpeedyNH]

i used to buy flared aluminum eyelets that made good intake stacks and used the long cone-shaped aluminum bristle holders off cheap little paintbrushes for exhausts. 

when using colored dots to mask off front wheels on clear bodies, i found that they tended to bleed paint in around the edges so i had to be really careful and lightly fog on the fist couple shots almost dry. maybe the ones i used were just cheap and weren't sticky enough.