93 replies to this topic

[Mad Mark]

it's a clean machine 
 
Do you have any of those products for black panel lines ? I think mine is Tamiya. Capillary action is fun to watch 

Yes I have some citadel panel liner. i did the driver with it and plan on going over interior with it for depth. thought about panels on body but not sure yet. maybe on some details like side intakes and dzus fasteners to pick up little details without overdoing it.

[Mad Mark]

First dusting of createx down. kinda like using this since its so mild I dont have to worry about melting off any other paint. any boo boos I can just scrape off with a fingernail too.


Full coat:

[Martin]

Really like the red, that is going to pop.

 

Found this youtube interesting. Would really like to know what animal's he is using 

 

[Mad Mark]

Really like the red, that is going to pop.
 
Found this youtube interesting. Would really like to know what animal's he is using 
 
https://www.youtube....h?v=uMrtjjjny_g

think my liner is acrylic not animal. really dont understand why paint companies dont put what they are literally anywhere its kind of important to know! Ive watched a bit of warhammer 40k modeling vids and they are pretty good for learning tricks.

Mildly stressful hand painted window trim: also left that chunk of glue in back corner since it fills in the missing area of windshield. left its old glue color so it sorta blends in.

oh and I said the createx is mild and wont attack the other paint yeah that was wrong. guess the reducer is a little stronger than I thought. on some little touch ups it was melting and dulling the clear coat! Yikes!

[Mark Onofri]

Thanks Chrisguyw, now I remember, it took a while to get the 16/48.(at a reasonable price)
As always, I'm a little confused , When you say "acrylic". Is it water based acrylic enamel or, something like what we would use for lexan ?
As far as meeeelting, you might want to try rubbing compound.

[chrisguyw]

 thinking Im going scrap the brass injectors for now, too much work. Im going to mount the OEM ones with double stick tape to the motor strap. At some point I can build cool brass ones and add them. 
FCCD780E-969E-4500-BB2D-E70D4AD2E147.jpeg

 

 

Hello Mark, You may want to look on Amazon for "Uninsulated Ferrules",..........these come in a wide variety of sizes, are nickel plated brass, and make great injector stacks,..........they are very inexpensive and you can find them in multi packs containing various sizes in one box.

 

Cheers

Chris Walker

 

A few examples................

 

 

 

 

 

 

They can also be painted for a different look......

 

 

 

 

 

And while nice shiny exhaust pipes are one way to go, you can make them look quite realistic if you dip some brass tubing into "Blacken It" (a liquid used by the Model Train/Military model guys to weather metal).

 

[Dave Crevie]

Chris, gorgeous cars!

 

 

The model railroaders use a product called a barrier for use with Floquil and Scalecoat paints on plastic models. It keeps the paint from attacking the plastic. I used it on this Merc lowrider I did some years ago, because I shot it with real Metalflake I had left over from when I was custom painting cars. The flake comes dry, in a bag, and you mix it with clear lacquer to spray it. Without the barrier coat, the lacquer would have melted the body down to a quivering blob. 

 

[Mad Mark]

Hello Mark, You may want to look on Amazon for "Uninsulated Ferrules",..........these come in a wide variety of sizes, are nickel plated brass, and make great injector stacks,..........they are very inexpensive and you can find them in multi packs containing various sizes in one box.
 
Cheers
Chris Walker
 
A few examples................
 

 

 

 
 

 
They can also be painted for a different look......
 

 
 

 
 
And while nice shiny exhaust pipes are one way to go, you can make them look quite realistic if you dip some brass tubing into "Blacken It" (a liquid used by the Model Train/Military model guys to weather metal).
 

Great tips beautiful cars! maybe after like 20 more of these mine can look half that nice!

[Mad Mark]

did a wash on interior looks pretty cool.


i could not stand the janky stock cox front axle mount and it keeps the front end up too high. so I made a unnecessarily complicated adjustable ride height and wheelbase axle mount. Id like to add a brass collar laying horizontal and have a cam on it to set ride height then use a set screw to lock the cam down. i had pretty much the same thing but vertical but had to chop it off because I miscalculated body clearance. All this is because I always end up changing wheels multiple times also haha.



Much better! You dont realize how crude the castings are on these till you get them in a jig.

[Bill from NH]

The car's stance looks good! I like your Phaze III square jig wheels. I have a set that came with a long-gone Formica covered chassis jig in the late '60s. I don't use them often, but they do come in handy when you need them. I believe they were made by Ferret.

[Mad Mark]

The car's stance looks good! I like your Phaze III square jig wheels. I have a set that came with a long-gone Formica covered chassis jig in the late '60s. I don't use them often, but they do come in handy when you need them. I believe they were made by Ferret.

These are stamped ferret. it’s funny I went from having no jig wheels and not being able to find any to now having like five different sets I accumulated from buying boxes with parts.

[Mad Mark]

So close! Still need to glue everything and havent decided on a head again. the giant stock head doesnt look bad when you get the driver sitting low. the head I was going to use is too small and makes the car look giant. judging from pics these are more on the small side. need to go to the hobby shop and get scale mesh. the screen door size screen I got looks like chain link fence in scale. also buttoned up the front. Kept telling myself keep it simple! So I just soldered a 4-40 nut on top of the slotted front axle mount on the chassis for a simple ride height adjuster.

Also if Im going to do a mirror I might just mount this revell mirror straight to the windscreen and not make a pole it goes on. kinda want to run this car so would be nice not bumping a mirror all the time.

[Bill from NH]

Mark, you never have too many jig wheel sets. I have 5 or 6 sets myself not counting those I turned myself. Ferret made chassis & other products for Phaze III to sell. They sold the same items under their own label, engraved with their name. Those that went to Phaze III have no names engraved on them. My jig wheels just have the 4 different tire sizes engraved on them.

[pn6]

 

 

Hello Mark, You may want to look on Amazon for "Uninsulated Ferrules",..........these come in a wide variety of sizes, are nickel plated brass, and make great injector stacks,..........they are very inexpensive and you can find them in multi packs containing various sizes in one box.

 

Cheers

Chris Walker

 

A few examples................

 

 

 

 

 

 

They can also be painted for a different look......

 

 

 

 

 

And while nice shiny exhaust pipes are one way to go, you can make them look quite realistic if you dip some brass tubing into "Blacken It" (a liquid used by the Model Train/Military model guys to weather metal).

 

Oh sure now you tell us Chris!!! After I slaved away at the lathe forming flared tubes out of aluminum stock. 

 

Those cars look fantastic by the way!! 

 

What size do you usually use for the intake tubes?

 

 

Mark the Chaparral is looking first rate!! Good Job!!

[chrisguyw]

Oh sure now you tell us Chris!!! After I slaved away at the lathe forming flared tubes out of aluminum stock. 

 

 

What size do you usually use for the intake tubes?

 

 

 

 

 

Hello pn6,...........I use whatever looks about right, depending on the scale of the car (1/32/1/24), and depending on the motor the actual car used.

 

I bought a multi pack of "uninsulated ferrules" from Amazon, which had several flare diameters from 2.5mm to 4.5mm,.......I can closely replicate injectors tubes from 1/32 60's small bore F1 cars to 1/24 CanAm (big bore motor) cars.

 

The multi pack I bought was around $10, and contained enough bits to do 20/30 cars (at least).

 

Cheers

Chris Walker 

[Mad Mark]

Good enough I say done.

Went with standard style roll bar got lazy and didnt want to come up with a mount for other one.


also tried to paint the underside of the body nice and white to make it uniform that kinda bugs me when you see a nice car and the underside is all overspray.

[Bill from NH]

Good save Mark! It looks neat,

[Dave Crevie]

Man that turned out nice! I have to get back into building. 

[Mark Onofri]

Glad you went with that bar!
By the way,why are you looking under my cars? (LMFAO , every one has multiple colour test shots)