Mercedes by Jairus, Iso Inline by Pablo
#26
Posted 18 November 2011 - 05:24 PM
#27
Posted 18 November 2011 - 05:33 PM
Paul Wolcott
#28
Posted 18 November 2011 - 06:23 PM
It is only a matter of time before the prolific scratchbuilders here will discover the precise beauty of the duffies. The oilites are only for jigging purposes - the finished car will use new Professor Motor ball bearings.
We "prolific scratchbuilders" need better tooling. A while back I got tired of everything sliding around as I fiddled with my jig setups,
and made up some "Jig Bushings" of stainless steel.
These borrow on R-Geo's axle collar concept, and you can see how--it's just, they're aluminum, and after prolonged exposure to
acid they resemble something you'd lure deer down to your treeblind with. So, I used STN for longer life.
I copied the R-Geo collars for outer stops that fetch right up to the jig pins, & then made "bushings" to lock up the inside stuff.
Once I have my chassis guts all centered &stuf, I can take things on & off as I please--OR, loosen just one side to swap gear out,
and then re-set in a jiffy.
I'm hoping some enterprising dood with a screw machine steps up and starts manufacturing this stuff, before the legions of
"prolific scratchbuilders" starts clamoring for it. Too PITA for mee!
Duffy
1950-2016
Requiescat in Pace
And I am awaiting
perpetually and forever
a renaissance of wonder
#30
Posted 18 November 2011 - 11:04 PM
No, not like the leftover gears parts your showing. What Duffy made were a collar and bushing all in one that is made of stainless steel so it doesn't get nasty from the acid flux. Less parts, less slop = more prececision when building. All I know is I wished I had know Duffy made these this past Monday, then I would have been begging for a set in the care package.
#31
Posted 18 November 2011 - 11:12 PM
Paul Wolcott
#33
Posted 20 November 2011 - 09:54 AM
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com
www.slotcarsmag.com
www.jairuswatson.net
http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!
#34
Posted 20 November 2011 - 10:12 AM
Stand by....
Paul Wolcott
#35
Posted 21 November 2011 - 05:19 PM
I just got word that the car under it needs to be changed. So, the anglewinder/short stack Mura will find a home elsewhere.
I'm going to find, or build, a new inline for this Mercedes. The wheels, I think, can stay What do y'all think ??? About the wheels, anyway ?
Note: The body was not mounted, and the interior has NOT been modifed (yet), so it looks a little crooked.
Edited by Pablo, 21 November 2011 - 05:22 PM.
- C. J. Bupgoo likes this
Paul Wolcott
#36
Posted 21 November 2011 - 07:20 PM
A really unusual car to replicate. Nicely done!The Jairus paint job is absolutely stunning, impeccably gorgeous
Jairus warned me about this body being small.
Now that I have it in hand, some major changes need to be made. The 26D motor and bracket won't work. I will use a short old 16D Mura instead.
- C. J. Bupgoo likes this
The older I get, the faster I was.
#37
Posted 21 November 2011 - 07:58 PM
Paul Wolcott
#38
Posted 21 November 2011 - 09:38 PM
Go old school and that means 1" tire dia. minimum and a Russkit 22 or even older with a Pittman or Kemtron motor hung out the back.
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com
www.slotcarsmag.com
www.jairuswatson.net
http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!
#39
Posted 21 November 2011 - 09:53 PM
Are you starting over? I take it you are starting over so my suggestions are:
Go old school and that means 1" tire dia. minimum and a Russkit 22 or even older with a Pittman or Kemtron motor hung out the back.
Oooh! Sounds like a "Wayback Machine" job to mee!
You mean something like THIS??
From what seems like a long time ago, but I'm kinda tempted to revisit now, in my rapidly-vanishing free time...
Duffy
1950-2016
Requiescat in Pace
And I am awaiting
perpetually and forever
a renaissance of wonder
#40
Posted 21 November 2011 - 10:46 PM
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com
www.slotcarsmag.com
www.jairuswatson.net
http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!
#41
Posted 22 November 2011 - 12:49 AM
Paul Wolcott
#43
Posted 02 December 2011 - 08:51 PM
I assume you're going to use the Mercedes body. If so, be aware that the motor might not fit with the deep interior.
I'm finding that most of my vintage builds end up with either no interior, a more contemporary interior, or having to use a sidewinder.
Regardless, tagged this one and can't wait to see your magic!
Mikey
Mike DiVuolo
C.A.R.S. Vintage Slot Car Club
"Prosecutors will be violated"
#44
Posted 02 December 2011 - 08:59 PM
You are right, it is tight. I originally tried a 26D, no go. A 16D will fit, but it is tight. The passenger seat may interfere a little.
Jairus gave me detailed instructions on how to heat distort an interior.
I was scared to death to do it, and ruin a "Jairus" interior, but after I read the instructions, I am no longer afraid.
Plus, I can do a test run on a "practice" interior before I go "hot" on the real one.
If anybody wants those instructions, let me know via PM. dc-65-x gets credit also, he may have been the originator of this method, I don't know.
Paul Wolcott
#45
Posted 03 December 2011 - 11:39 AM
Here's the method for bulging the interior I posted a few years ago.
I got the body mounted and then the same old problem with the interior showed its ugly head. The thing is made for a full sidewinder application and won't fit an inline. Here's a fix that looks pretty good and only takes about 10 minutes. Put a stripped can and end bell in your chassis like this. I used some Teflon tape on the can just to make sure it wouldn't stick to the interior. I'm not sure this is really necessary though:
Tape the interior into the body and force the body onto the chassis. Turn it upside down and apply heat from your soldering iron and
BAM! The interior will mold itself around the motor can:
Here is the modified interior on the left and stock on the right:
This works really slick. I just used it to fit a big 26D into my Team Russkit McLaren MkII with the same Lotus 40 interior.
Build on Pablo, I always enjoy your threads!
Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...
#46
Posted 03 December 2011 - 01:14 PM
I have never used the teflon tape and my process is done right side up so I can SEE the interior deform and feel if the plastic is getting sticky enough to stick.
Even if it does, that is not a problem. Just pull the heat away and soon as the can cools you can pop them apart.
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com
www.slotcarsmag.com
www.jairuswatson.net
http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!
#47
Posted 03 December 2011 - 01:22 PM
I just want to let the guys know that if you hold the car right side up with the iron under it....HEAT RISES!. Watch out where the soldering is in relation to the body. I stupidly forgot to do this, got the iron too close and toasted a Lancer Eagle V12 GP body .
Since I tend to repeat my mistakes, I now hold the car upside down with the iron on top as shown .
Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...
#50
Posted 04 December 2011 - 12:08 AM
Ernie