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Mercedes by Jairus, Iso Inline by Pablo


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#26 JohnnySlotcar

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 05:24 PM

Look in ebay under seller HCE55 i think,He has the blind 2 prong knockoffs you need. They are the same as on some Classic brand cars and advertised as such.
John Austin




#27 Pablo

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 05:33 PM

I did a search on "HCE55" ....... no go

Paul Wolcott


#28 Duffy

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 06:23 PM

It is only a matter of time before the prolific scratchbuilders here will discover the precise beauty of the duffies. The oilites are only for jigging purposes - the finished car will use new Professor Motor ball bearings.


We "prolific scratchbuilders" need better tooling. A while back I got tired of everything sliding around as I fiddled with my jig setups,
and made up some "Jig Bushings" of stainless steel.

Duffy 48 OXCART 09.jpg

These borrow on R-Geo's axle collar concept, and you can see how--it's just, they're aluminum, and after prolonged exposure to
acid they resemble something you'd lure deer down to your treeblind with. So, I used STN for longer life.

I copied the R-Geo collars for outer stops that fetch right up to the jig pins, & then made "bushings" to lock up the inside stuff.
Once I have my chassis guts all centered &stuf, I can take things on & off as I please--OR, loosen just one side to swap gear out,
and then re-set in a jiffy.

I'm hoping some enterprising dood with a screw machine steps up and starts manufacturing this stuff, before the legions of
"prolific scratchbuilders" starts clamoring for it. Too PITA for mee!

Duffy
Michael J. Heinrich
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Requiescat in Pace
 
And I am awaiting
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a renaissance of wonder

#29 Pablo

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 10:45 PM

You mean like these ?

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Paul Wolcott


#30 Mopar Rob

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 11:04 PM

Pablo:


No, not like the leftover gears parts your showing. What Duffy made were a collar and bushing all in one that is made of stainless steel so it doesn't get nasty from the acid flux. Less parts, less slop = more prececision when building. All I know is I wished I had know Duffy made these this past Monday, then I would have been begging for a set in the care package.

Rob Hanson

Shops at Mid-America Raceway and uses R-Geo Products


Rob was right!


#31 Pablo

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 11:12 PM

Ah, I get it now....they have dummy bushing thingies built in. Thanks Rob.

Paul Wolcott


#32 Pablo

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Posted 20 November 2011 - 12:20 AM

Chassis is done.

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Paul Wolcott


#33 Jairus

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Posted 20 November 2011 - 09:54 AM

Very nice! Are you going with wide wheels in the back? What diameter wheel/tires are you planning to install?

Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com

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#34 Pablo

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Posted 20 November 2011 - 10:12 AM

Thanks for asking, Mr. Watson :wave: .900 OD front and rear, 2.50 widths front and rear.
Stand by.... :spiteful:

Paul Wolcott


#35 Pablo

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Posted 21 November 2011 - 05:19 PM

Here is the answer to your wheels question, Jairus, "How do you like me now" ? :ok:
I just got word that the car under it needs to be changed. So, the anglewinder/short stack Mura will find a home elsewhere.
I'm going to find, or build, a new inline for this Mercedes. The wheels, I think, can stay :i-m_so_happy: What do y'all think ??? About the wheels, anyway ?
Note: The body was not mounted, and the interior has NOT been modifed (yet), so it looks a little crooked.

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Edited by Pablo, 21 November 2011 - 05:22 PM.

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Paul Wolcott


#36 4wheeldrift

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Posted 21 November 2011 - 07:20 PM

The Jairus paint job is absolutely stunning, impeccably gorgeous Posted Image



Jairus warned me about this body being small.
Now that I have it in hand, some major changes need to be made. The 26D motor and bracket won't work. I will use a short old 16D Mura instead. Posted Image

A really unusual car to replicate. Nicely done!
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#37 Pablo

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Posted 21 November 2011 - 07:58 PM

Thanks, David :yawnface: But, it ain't done yet. Stand by, I build real S L O W

Paul Wolcott


#38 Jairus

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Posted 21 November 2011 - 09:38 PM

Are you starting over? I take it you are starting over so my suggestions are:
Go old school and that means 1" tire dia. minimum and a Russkit 22 or even older with a Pittman or Kemtron motor hung out the back.

Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com

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http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!


#39 Duffy

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Posted 21 November 2011 - 09:53 PM

Are you starting over? I take it you are starting over so my suggestions are:
Go old school and that means 1" tire dia. minimum and a Russkit 22 or even older with a Pittman or Kemtron motor hung out the back.


Oooh! Sounds like a "Wayback Machine" job to mee!
You mean something like THIS??

PittCobra6.jpg

From what seems like a long time ago, but I'm kinda tempted to revisit now, in my rapidly-vanishing free time...

Duffy
Michael J. Heinrich
1950-2016
Requiescat in Pace
 
And I am awaiting
perpetually and forever
a renaissance of wonder

#40 Jairus

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Posted 21 November 2011 - 10:46 PM

Bingo! Duffy gets it. :)

Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com

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Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!


#41 Pablo

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Posted 22 November 2011 - 12:49 AM

Thanks Jairus and Duffy, yes I am starting over, but I'm thinking a single hole Mura inline jaildoor.

Paul Wolcott


#42 Pablo

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Posted 02 December 2011 - 08:41 PM

Once again, the duffies save time, are super sano, and just plain work.
Up front is a Rick's guide flag doohickey.

Thanks, Bill, for zapping the mags for the 1 hole Mura. :)

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Paul Wolcott


#43 mdiv

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Posted 02 December 2011 - 08:51 PM

Paul,

I assume you're going to use the Mercedes body. If so, be aware that the motor might not fit with the deep interior.

I'm finding that most of my vintage builds end up with either no interior, a more contemporary interior, or having to use a sidewinder.

Regardless, tagged this one and can't wait to see your magic! :)

Mikey

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#44 Pablo

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Posted 02 December 2011 - 08:59 PM

Thanks, Mikey !!! :D

You are right, it is tight. I originally tried a 26D, no go. A 16D will fit, but it is tight. The passenger seat may interfere a little.
Jairus gave me detailed instructions on how to heat distort an interior.
I was scared to death to do it, and ruin a "Jairus" interior, but after I read the instructions, I am no longer afraid.
Plus, I can do a test run on a "practice" interior before I go "hot" on the real one.
If anybody wants those instructions, let me know via PM. dc-65-x gets credit also, he may have been the originator of this method, I don't know. :D

Paul Wolcott


#45 dc-65x

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Posted 03 December 2011 - 11:39 AM

Hi Pablo,

Here's the method for bulging the interior I posted a few years ago.


I got the body mounted and then the same old problem with the interior showed its ugly head. The thing is made for a full sidewinder application and won't fit an inline. Here's a fix that looks pretty good and only takes about 10 minutes. Put a stripped can and end bell in your chassis like this. I used some Teflon tape on the can just to make sure it wouldn't stick to the interior. I'm not sure this is really necessary though:

Posted Image

Tape the interior into the body and force the body onto the chassis. Turn it upside down and apply heat from your soldering iron and

Posted Image

BAM! The interior will mold itself around the motor can:

Posted Image

Here is the modified interior on the left and stock on the right:

Posted Image


This works really slick. I just used it to fit a big 26D into my Team Russkit McLaren MkII with the same Lotus 40 interior.

Build on Pablo, I always enjoy your threads! :good:

Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...


#46 Jairus

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Posted 03 December 2011 - 01:14 PM

Yup, it's that easy!
I have never used the teflon tape and my process is done right side up so I can SEE the interior deform and feel if the plastic is getting sticky enough to stick.

Even if it does, that is not a problem. Just pull the heat away and soon as the can cools you can pop them apart.

Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com

www.slotcarsmag.com

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http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!


#47 dc-65x

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Posted 03 December 2011 - 01:22 PM

Hi Jairus,

I just want to let the guys know that if you hold the car right side up with the iron under it....HEAT RISES!. Watch out where the soldering is in relation to the body. I stupidly forgot to do this, got the iron too close and toasted a Lancer Eagle V12 GP body :unknw: .

Since I tend to repeat my mistakes, I now hold the car upside down with the iron on top as shown :laugh2: .

Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...


#48 Pablo

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Posted 03 December 2011 - 04:49 PM

Thank you, gentlemen !! I'll be trying it on an old test body soon. The Mercedes is gonna need it.

Chassis is ISO'ed up ! Now it's time for floppy rod rails....

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Paul Wolcott


#49 Pablo

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Posted 03 December 2011 - 11:27 PM

DSC04234.JPG

DSC04235.JPG
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Paul Wolcott


#50 Alchemist

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Posted 04 December 2011 - 12:08 AM

That's real nice Paul - Wow!!! Can't wait to see this car completed and basking in its' sartorial splendor!!

Ernie
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