
S16C in a JK X25 chassis questions
#26
Posted 13 March 2012 - 04:17 PM
#27
Posted 13 March 2012 - 04:47 PM
What air gap are you running?
When was the last time you have the arm redone?
How many amps does the motor draw unloaded at 5 volts?
-Dave
#28
Posted 13 March 2012 - 06:22 PM
'gotboostedvr6', on 13 Mar 2012 - 9:47 PM, said:
jb,
What air gap are you running?
When was the last time you have the arm redone?
How many amps does the motor draw unloaded at 5 volts?
-Dave
Hi Dave,
I am not sure of the air gap, but it looks very tight and just as good or better than he other guys here.
The motors were pulling 3 amps at 5 volts.
Also note:
These are brand new motors, including the arms and have been blueprinted and broken in.
Thanks
Jb
#29
Posted 13 March 2012 - 07:21 PM
This may or may not pertain to your problem, I can't say....
Paul Wolcott
#30
Posted 14 March 2012 - 08:39 AM
'Pablo', on 14 Mar 2012 - 12:21 AM, said:
Jason, I have seen some so-called "blueprinted" motors that were a JOKE. It all depends on WHO "blueprinted" it......
This may or may not pertain to your problem, I can't say....
This has turned into a very discouraging situation for all the parties involved. There were (2) of these motors purchased, one for me and one for my friend. We were going to run this motor in the Nats this year on March 31st, but with these issues, it will not be so. The parma black endbell motor is just as fast as these are.........
The builder, Mick A, from Slot Car City has been contacted and he basically said he is not going to do anything about it, even though it is clear we have "dud" armatures. We have had several people test these motors including our 40 year track veteran "Bernie Bernstein", and we have all come to this same conclusion...... me and my friend are out $75.00 each.
To keep any others from purchasing these motors, here is a link to what we bought:
http://www.slotcarci...g.php?item=1427
Thanks for all your input fellas.
#31
Posted 14 March 2012 - 08:58 AM

Jason, this, again, may or may not apply to your situation. In addition to knowing WHO "blueprinted" a motor, it is important to know exactly how much effort was put forth to do the correct work. Someone may be knowledgeable, yet skip steps/cut corners to make a quick buck. Anybody who assembles race motors quickly, is either an expert with that particular setup with lots of practice, or, cutting corners. Greg Wells' "C-Can Instructions" here on Slotblog is a great step by step blueprinting manual. Anybody not doing it this way, the hard way, is a quick assembler, NOT a blueprinter.
Having said that, I know for a fact Mick knows how to blueprint a motor, and I have no idea what happened in your situation.
Buy the tools, do the homework, and make your own motors, it is a lot of fun !


Paul Wolcott
#33
Posted 14 March 2012 - 09:55 AM
I'll be glad to loan you some new Kelly built S16Cs. They haven't been run yet but i think we can find something for you. Hate to see someone screwed like that. They are actually Terry's, like 90% of what I have, but he won't mind; he's a very generous person and would do so himself.
I'll be there Tues. around 3 PM.
#34
Posted 14 March 2012 - 10:05 AM
'John C Martin', on 14 Mar 2012 - 2:55 PM, said:
Dingleberry i'll be glad to loan you some new kelly built s16cs ,, they haven't been run yet but i think we can find something for you,, hate to see someone screwed like that ,,they are actually terrys like 90% of what i have ,, but he won't mind he's a very generous person and would do so himself. i'll be there tues. around 3 pm
thanks for the offer John. Will the Kelly built S16C be allowed to run in the GTP class on Saturday? For some reason, I thought these were not allowed.....
#35
Posted 14 March 2012 - 10:07 AM
'dingleberry', on 14 Mar 2012 - 2:17 PM, said:
Got a link to: "C-Can Instructions" by Greg Wells?... search function did not find anything.
Pablo didn't give you a usable search string...
Here's a link for you:
Building race-winning C-cans
Gregory Wells
Never forget that first place goes to the racer with the MOST laps, not the racer with the FASTEST lap
#36
Posted 14 March 2012 - 10:17 AM

#37
Posted 14 March 2012 - 10:17 AM

Jason, the motor John M. has offered to loan you is a S16C, built by Kelly. Anywhere S16C motors are legal, this motor would be legal. Your confusion probably stems from the confusion between a Kelly "KS-16C" and a S16C. The Kelly-made "KS16C" arm is a COMPLETELY different animal than a S16C. No worries.
Chris Barnes, I forgot to say "Thanks" for the motor brace info. I will be doing that.

Paul Wolcott
#38
Posted 14 March 2012 - 10:20 AM
#39
Posted 14 March 2012 - 10:35 AM

I will actually build the complete X25 chassis/S16C/GTP car for the 2012 AMSRA NATS, as soon as I get off work this week

All new parts, .540 OD ProSlot arm, Cahoza mags set at 20 thou gap, Speed FX setup, Gold Dust brushes, gears 9/37, JK treated rears .720 OD, O/S Bentlee body. I'm not worried anybody would copy me, the better drivers will outdrive me anyway. I just want a fast car that handles. We shall see

Paul Wolcott
#40
Posted 14 March 2012 - 10:38 AM

'Pablo', on 14 Mar 2012 - 3:35 PM, said:
All new parts, .540 OD ProSlot arm, Cahoza mags set at 20 thou gap, Speed FX setup, Gold Dust brushes, gears 9/37, JK treated rears .720 OD, O/S Bentlee body. I'm not worried anybody would copy me, the better drivers will outdrive me anyway. I just want a fast car that handles. We shall see
this sounds like my exact setup!

may I ask what degree arm will you be using?
#41
Posted 14 March 2012 - 10:49 AM
#42
Posted 14 March 2012 - 10:51 AM
Conservative is 38 degrees. Hot is 46 degrees. Different manufacturers measure timing in different ways. 42 degrees is a safe number. Start there and adjust. If it runs hot, gear it with less pinion teeth. If it runs cool, add a pinion tooth. If it STILL runs cool, bump up the timing

Paul Wolcott
#43
Posted 14 March 2012 - 10:52 AM

Paul Wolcott
#44
Posted 14 March 2012 - 10:59 AM

#45
Posted 14 March 2012 - 09:09 PM
Once in a blue moon, for no particular reason, the EB screws will touch, and short out on, the EB hardware. Easy test to see if that is your problem, just back out the screws a little, then test. If those screws are shorting out the hardware, it can cause you to tear out your hair ....
Or, as you said, you may just have a bad arm. A guy with a meter who knows what he is doing can find out if the arm is shorted.
Paul Wolcott
#46
Posted 15 March 2012 - 11:07 AM
#47
Posted 15 March 2012 - 11:22 AM

I have had a steep learning curve the last 10 years



Paul Wolcott
#48
Posted 15 March 2012 - 01:56 PM
2 weeks ago I had a racer ask me what was wrong with his car. He had a Cahoza UL can, T5 Mags, .540 42 degree ProSlot arm in his X25 chassis with an O/S 069 BentLee mounted. He had geared the car at 9/43. The car was a dog and lacked brakes. I suggested he change the gearing to 8/43. Last weekend he showed up with the car. It was like a whole new motor! With the 9T the motor wouldn't rev and was truly a dog. With the 8T the motor revved to the max and had great brakes. The car was much better with the low gear ratio.
If you are running a .540 diam arm, the timing on them makes a big difference IMHO. A 38 degree arm won't rev out enough to use the low gear ratios these motors like. IMHO, you are gearing your car too high or you got a 38 degree arm. Bring the motor to the Nats. What works on your track may be totally different to what works on their track. Feel free to look me up down there, I'll be driving down on the 24th and should be at the track on the 25th.
#49
Posted 15 March 2012 - 06:35 PM
Paul Wolcott
#50
Posted 15 March 2012 - 06:48 PM
http://www.scrhobbies.com/
http://www.usraslots...usra-nats-info/
Rob Hanson
Shops at Mid-America Raceway and uses R-Geo Products
Cheater on 19 August 2010 said
Rob was right!