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New AMT slot car kit review


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#101 Lone Wolf

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Posted 04 December 2012 - 08:21 PM

Great stuff and I applaud AMT for the improvements. Thanks to you too for fair and accurate reporting. My only gripe this time is the body color. Way back in this thread I suggested a molded in color body for the younger set and a "body in white" for the big kids. Perhaps they can offer the white body separately or as a Hobby shop/raceway only kind of deal. Might stir up interest as well if people have to hunt a little in the local store for one.


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#102 Jairus

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Posted 09 December 2012 - 11:52 PM

Finally made some progress on the project this evening. Mounted the body on the chassis and have a plan...
IMG_0591-vi.jpg
 

Yeah... decided to build the first version of the Hurst Hairy Oldsmobile built in 1966!
Here are two views.
HHOrear34-vi.jpg

 

HHOfront34-vi.jpg
I'd like to be able to afford to pay Chris Clark to lay down the glassy clear coat... but money is pretty tight.
At any rate, the next step is removing some of the molded in chrome trim, priming and then laying down some paint. (My worst thing)
Rather go to the dentist... just saying.

 

 

"Can't take the sky from me...."


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#103 Champion 507

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Posted 10 December 2012 - 01:07 AM

Jairus,

Thank you for passing on my suggestion back on page 3 of this thread for them to add Ford and Mopar to their production. I would have thought they would have chosen their '66 Mustang rather than the '61 Galaxie for the reasons listed below:

1. The '61 Galaxie was a year before all the 1962 model year cars they built for the Authentic Model Turnpike sets. I guess their thinking was that on the '61, it is made from ex-promo tooling and there is no engine, so the hood is molded closed.

2. To me the logical choice would have been the '66 Mustang, since one of their original line of post AM Turnpike cars included a '65 Mustang. AMT can't make the '65 again (without NEW tooling) since they changed the tooling to do the '66 when it came out.

 

This second round of cars is also supposed to have the set screw wheels and all the improvements that your 442 has.

 

By the way, nice job on both cars so far. Am anxious to see the finished products.

 

Does Linda come with the kit or did you have her hidden away somewhere?


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#104 Joe Mig

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Posted 10 December 2012 - 06:55 AM


IMG_0591-vi.jpg
 

 

 

Say hello too Linder for me . :D  It is a great plan I cant wait to see it done.

 

 

Does Linda come with the kit or did you have her hidden away somewhere?

 

I think he only takes her out when doing an Hurst/Olds type kit then she goes back on the shelf.  :laugh2:  

I have a great photo with her and I from back in the early 80's :heart: .


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#105 Jairus

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Posted 10 December 2012 - 10:39 AM

 

Does Linda come with the kit or did you have her hidden away somewhere?

 

Doug,
sorry that I forgot to mention... all the Hurst Hairy Olds bits come from a limited production kit released by Revell in 1998. The kit comes with a cast figure of Linda and a cast giant scale hurst shifter, both pre-painted.

The Revell kit is a re-pop of the 1967 car (now wrecked) and molded in 1/24th scale making installation of the interior impossible.


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#106 slotcardan

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Posted 17 December 2012 - 09:50 AM

I signed up because i wanted to Thank the OP for turning me onto these new AMT kits.

 

I used Jairus's advice to build a one off Digital AMT car.

 

I don't want to hijack the thread but.

 

DSCN2183.jpg

 

DSCN2182.jpg

 

digital controller

a359fc0e7e0a8ba37bc888ae61a6371e.jpg

 

led lighting

6cb6c293fc40882f677cc04541d23188.jpg

DSCN2206.jpg

 

Modifiications i made:

 

Added a hoop to the rear motor mount to strengthen it

Made the front tires independant instead of spooled

cutout the frontend for a parma Guide flag setup.

I changed the body mounts for slotdoctor repop body mounts as well

I added lead as the OP suggested as well.

 

DSCN2121.jpg

 

i wanted as full an interior as possible so i cut around the motor.

DSCN2171.jpg

 

I can't wait to grab one of these new kits and start making more

 

thanks again!

Dan


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#107 slotcarone

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Posted 17 December 2012 - 09:56 AM

:) That's a beautiful build Dan!!!!  Even has Magnum 500 wheels!!!


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#108 Jairus

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Posted 17 December 2012 - 10:00 AM

Dan, that looks BOSS!  :D  :heart:


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#109 TuscoTodd

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Posted 23 February 2013 - 09:46 AM

Jairus -

Thank you for putting together this posting!  I purchased the '57 Chevy kit for my father for Christmas - however, he hasn't had a chance to put it together yet.  After seeing some of the notable improvements in the second round of kits, I am tempted to purchase one of them to use as a donor to address some of the short comings of the original release kits, and give that to him as a follow up gift!

I have been looking at the 442 kit, as I am an Olds fan and seeing the improvements, I think I may just need to order one of these up!  

Thanks again!


Todd Daenzer

#110 Jairus

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Posted 23 February 2013 - 11:20 AM

Welcome to the forum Todd!  Please feel free to post your build up on this thread.  John Greczula of AMT has a link to the thread and he is quite interested in what we have to say about the kits.
Also thank you for reminding me to get some paint on that 442!  Working on some other artwork today but shooting some color sounds like a nice distraction on this overcast Saturday....  ^_^ 


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#111 Horsepower

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Posted 23 February 2013 - 06:29 PM

Dan, that looks BOSS!  :D  :heart:

Seeing that car brings back some full scale memories, doesn't it? :D  :good:


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#112 TuscoTodd

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Posted 24 February 2013 - 09:47 AM

Jairus - Thank you for welcoming me to the site!  I started to do some searching for a source for the 442  online since my local shop doesn't carry them, and found on the Tower Hobbies website that apparently there are another 6 models being released in the coming months! 

 

1949 Ford Coupe - Late May

1969 Plymouth GTX - Late May

1980 Chevy Monte Carlo - Late May

1962 Buick Electra - Late June

1970 Dodge Coronet Super Bee - Jan 2014

1966 Ford Mustang - Jan 2014

 

Any idea if these models will incorporate any additional upgrades over the second release kits? (Not sure if John Greczula of AMT has shared any info on this?)

 

At any rate - definitely happy to see more of these coming out! 


:D

 

Now, just need to pull the trigger on purchasing my 442 kit! 


Todd Daenzer

#113 Jairus

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Posted 24 February 2013 - 11:01 AM

All news regarding new releases can be found on the AMT web site.

 

Also there are news blasts from many on-line sources. I would sign up for one of them.  It's easy... mostly just a click and fill in your email address.  My source is Model Roundup.

P.S. I don't believe the new releases will have any updated chassis parts.


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#114 TuscoTodd

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Posted 24 February 2013 - 12:25 PM

Thank you for the note about Model Roundup - I will have to sign up there.  I had checked the AMT site  but apparently, I must be looking in the wrong area there - as I couldn't find anything about the upcoming releases on the slot offerings in their news releases - just the models that are currently out...   :unsure:

 

Still stoked about it either way though and if all goes well will have my 442 inbound by the end of the week!  :D


Todd Daenzer

#115 manitouguy

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Posted 25 February 2013 - 01:55 AM

great stuff and great posts all

thanks Jairus for continuing this

 

question - re the use of body mount screws (i too like them - keeps it somewhat 'period' feeling)

 

but is there any theory about the positioning of the pair of screws each side ?? of course they match to mounts on chassis

 

but in looking at your pics of the olds - was just thinking that placing the pair centered on the body panel side is quite static - could they be positioned closer to front wheel well for a more agressive 'balance' ?? or one just foreward of rear well, the other just behind front well

 

i know it is subjective and all, but doesn't seem anyone has played around with positioning to 'pretty' it up a bit

 

just a thought

 

can't wait to see more !!

 

cheers, Ron


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#116 Jairus

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Posted 25 February 2013 - 10:32 AM

Ron, The ultimate body mounting is not on the rockers at all but by rods attached to the hood and trunk(boot). That way the rear screws can be loosened to help in tuning the chassis.  With the side screws there is no way to allow for tuning at all.

Update: Got the body painted a nice gold color. (Tamiya)  Masking and painting the gloss black stripes this evening. Later decals.
 


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#117 Jairus

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Posted 26 February 2013 - 01:24 PM

IMG_0762-vi.jpg

 

Can you believe it?  I actually painted a hard body?
(Hate painting on the outside)

Note to self: Must finish two other, no... three other bodies now.

The plan here is to get this thing looking decent and then start testing the chassis on the local drag strip noting the times with each modification. The ultimate goal is to use as much of the AMT kit as possible while converting the chassis to 4wheel drive.  Crazy?  Oh yeahhhhhhh....


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#118 Joe Mig

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Posted 26 February 2013 - 04:17 PM

Wow Janus I might be able to give you a tip,when you have the masking tape on give it a coat of clear to stop bleed thru it gives you a real sharp line.
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#119 TuscoTodd

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Posted 09 March 2013 - 02:32 AM

Well I haven't gotten to the 442 yet, as I am still debating what color I want to go with on it (currently leaning toward a metallic black) - HOWEVER, I did put one of the other AMT kits I purchased together and have some insights and photos to share.  :)

 

First off, a couple items of note....

- please note that while the axles being supplied with the new aluminum wheels are a great improvement over the serated ones offered in the early kits, they are 3mm not 1/8".  So standard axles/axle bushings are not a drop in adventure (they are approximately .010" smaller)

 

- the front of the chassis has been revised - but I was still not happy with the range of movement with the stock two piece guide.  I ground the chassis back as can be seen in the photos following which improves the situation - but I think I need to upgrade to the Parma guide to get the range of movement I would like to see. 

 

- the motor adapter in my kit, thanfully did not need the step drill mod Jairus had to go through above - but did require attention as I torqued it down, as mine had enough variance in it that uneven torquing would pull it out of line slightly.

 

- the crown gear supplied in the new kits is a notable improvement, however, since I had a Parma unit sitting here, I installed that as an alternate.

 

- I followed Jairus's mod with soldering the leads, as I think that will be much more reliable. 

 

- I have kept the stock motor in it for the time being as I want to see how it performs - but have a spare Death Star sitting here that may find it's way in there if the need for more power comes along (I am guessing that will happen in the second outting as I'd rather have tooooo much power than not enough as it makes for a lot of fun fish tailing off the corners on the flat track!)  :D

 

- For body mounting I picked up 2" wide Velcro brand "Industrial Strength" velco and have to say, it definitely appears to live up to it's name in how well it both stuck to the body and body supports!  I think it may be a viable alternate to using screws, since you need to roll a phillips screw driver between the layers to seperate the two halves.  Time at the track will tell if this option has the required strength to keep the body from rocking front to rear without the solid locking of through body fasteners.

 

It would be nice if AMT would upgrade from the phillips screws to standard allen head screws for future kits as it would GREATLY ease setting up the body mounts and securing the two halves of the chassis together.  (I will be exploring getting the appropriate allen head screws for use on my next build)

 

Speaking of screws, anotherr thing to note - I attached my bumpers with screws - not just glue as directed in the instructions - I figured since they were kind enough to provide the provisions to do this, I was going to take advantage of it, independent of the fact that the kit did not include the screws or note that option in the instructions.

 

With all of that said, I am fairly pleased with how the kit turned out.  The only painting I did on this one was adding black in the recessesed openings of the grill and rear filler panel piece.  I wanted to leave the body in the "molded" color to both see how it would look, and since this is the first of these kits I have assembled, it is going to be serve as my test mule for modifications for the 442 model and any of the other kits I look to do in the future. 

 

OK - with that said - here are the photos prior to it's maiden voyage to the local track!

 

3.JPG

 

2.JPG

 

3b.JPG

 

5.JPG

(shows a pair of the bumper screws and you can see the velcro attached on the body side in the back ground)

 

8.JPG

(another shot of the Velcro - this one including the velcro on the mount)

 

4.JPG

(general shot of the bottom of the car, with the body attached)

 

6.JPG

(Parma gear installed)

 

7.JPG

(shows modification to the front of the chassis to allow more movement of the guide - sorry I didn't take a before shot)

 

 

:)

 


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#120 Jairus

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Posted 09 March 2013 - 09:50 AM

Hey Todd, that looks GREAT!  You just need some hub caps to complete the look.  Or 5-spoke inserts..., but it's a sweet looking Ford!

 

Question, did you have problems tightening down the guide nut like I did?


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#121 TuscoTodd

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Posted 09 March 2013 - 11:08 AM

Jairus -

Thank you for the kind words - I am definitely happy with how it looks at this point.  I haven't done anything with hubcaps yet as I figure that I will be working on "tuning" her for a bit - but the kit did come with two different sets - so I have some options right out of the gate I can explore if I end up sticking with the factory wheels / tires.  (I also have three different types of H&R Racing tires to try - silicon, fish and foam)

 

On the guide flag - yes, I had the same issue with the nut being a little too loose for my liking as well.  I put some thread locker on it to see if that would help - but it doesn't seem to be having the desired effect, so I may try wrapping the stud with plumbers tape as a stop gap, or may even look peening the nut to simulate a lock nut, to see if I can't get that one to work.  If not, I will snag a Parma guide (need to get a spare of two any way) on my next trip up to Mark's in Canton.

 

Speaking of which, I picked up one of the older kits ('66 Chevy II) from Mark's this last Thursday and plan to go a little farther with that kit (converting to 1/8" axles and wheels, soldering or at least upgrading the screws used to bolt the chassis / mount on, possible motor / gearing change, etc) 

 

But before I go too crazy -  I am going to try to get the Galaxy sorted out so I know what works and what doesn't.  Should be a good time no matter how you cut it though!  :D


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#122 TuscoTodd

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Posted 09 March 2013 - 11:38 AM

Here are a couple shots with the much wider H&R silicone tire/wheel combo in place. 

(gives it a nice 60's hot rod look with the 5-slot aluminum wheels and white letter tires)

:D

 

10.JPG

 

9.JPG


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Todd Daenzer

#123 Champion 507

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Posted 09 March 2013 - 09:57 PM

Nice job Todd! Looks like a Holman-Moody hot rod in the making. Now where's Fred or Fireball?

 

According to your earlier post, AMT will do a 1966 Mustang. That's the one I'm waiting for. My first slot car was a 1965 Mustang from them in late 1964. Too bad that car is long gone. I think it would be cool to have both of them side by side for a photo session...50 years in the making.


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#124 TuscoTodd

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 08:43 AM

Champion 507 -

Thanks for the kind words!  She is going for her maiden voyage on the commercial track tonight at Mark's in Canton - hoping to be able to sort out what tires it likes and shake out any short comings with the guide flag, body mount, etc. 

 

On the Mustang, it will be nice to see the '66 come out - should make for a fun short wheel base kit.  The Galaxy body requires the chassis to be stretched to it's max to fit the body, so I imagine the handling dynamics will be completely different between the two.  :)

Speaking of short wheel base kits, I would love to see them come out with a '67 Cougar kit.  My father has a set of, Revell I believe, 1/32 Cougars that we raced when I was young and I always loved that body style!  (the detail on those cars isn't what these kits have - but still had a lot of fun!)


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#125 TuscoTodd

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 03:19 PM

Following is a bit long - but is there for those that are interested!  :D

 

The short version though, is that I am happy to report that the new kit design, coupled with a couple mods noted, proved for an enjoyable experience at the track last night!   

 

And now for those interested - here is the loooong version... 

I spent quite a bit of time with the car last night, getting in roughly 1.5 hours of run time in without so much as a hiccup.

The motor, while not a screamer compared to the 16d based units in my Parma cars had sufficient torque and braking power to task the factory tires coming out of the corners (will say it's fun to see that Galaxy swinging it's tail out while powering out of the corners!)  I attribute some of the "tail happy" action likely being due the overall length of the Galaxy body and the fact that you run the chassis at the max length to match the wheel base, and then, that most likely wasn't helped with the addition of the two stainless steel screws (in the factory holes) to further secure the rear bumper.  (a little belt and suspenders effect there).   

 

The motor ran reasonably cool all night long which was pleasant to see, considering I was pushing it (and my novice skills) to the limit trying to identify possible issues while trying to improve my lap times.  

 

As can be expected, handling in the corners was the biggest challenge due to where the center of gravity resides.  Between the raised frame rails and weight of the body, too much speed in the corners was typically met not with a spin out style deslotting, but rather with going up on two wheels or rolling over. 

 

I did try a number of things to improve performance, some successful - others, not so much... 

With that here is a break down:  

 

- Frame modification for the guide flag:  (This was done prior to going to the track) This mod involved cutting back the sides of the bottom of the frame to allow more angular movement of the guide.  With the tail happy driving I was doing last night, I could have used about fifteen degrees more movement, but with the stock guide design and axle location, that is not possible.  But the added movement the mod allowed proved to be adequate 95% of the time with the only times it's short comings being readily apparent were when running the inside lane on a tight corner and drifting the rear out too far due to momentum.  

 

- Guide flag retaining nut:  I was not happy with how the factory nut fit the threads of the guide in that it seemed as though the stud on the guide was slightly undersized.  I looked at two options here, but only tried the first one - as it worked.  I was going to distort the nut slightly to tighten the fit, however in searching through my spare parts pile, I found a nut that fit the guide post nice and snug - so I went that route.  If that wasn't going to be effective, I did have a set screw collar that I was going to utilize as an alternate.  

 

- Guide flag depth:  I found the front wheels to hold the guide flag a bit too high for my liking.  To counter this, I added a second washer between the bottom of the frame and the top of the guide.  This allowed for the guide to be kept snug, while keeping closer to the track.  (this could also be tackled with smaller front tires - but would ruin the "look" in my eyes)  

 

- Gears:  As noted in a previous post, I opted for a Parma 31 tooth spur gear verses the aluminum one that is included in the kit.  While the set screw aluminum one was a notable improvement over the plastic one in the original kits - I was concerned about longevity and went with the Parma unit.  (it also runs nice and quiet that way as well!)  The 31 tooth gear was a good match for the large flat track and the stock wheels/tires as I was topping out (rpm wise) just prior to needing to get on the brakes for the curve at the end of the long straight - and that was with spinning sliding out of the corner.    

 

- Tires:  I ran the majority of the evening with the factory tires on the car.  I did not glue or true them to the rims - which may have hindered their performance some - and is something I will be looking at doing with an additional set prior to the next outing.  I will say though, after all the running, sliding, spinning - the factory rear tires are now "worn in" as flat and true!   In addition to having this set, I want to try gluing up an alternate set and rounding the corners slightly to see if that makes any difference.

For alternate tires, I had three different sets of H&R Racing tires and one set of Parma Tuna tires.  The H&R tires were foam, fish and silicone all 27mm OD versions - which are about .050" or 1.3mm larger than the tires in the kit - not helping the center of gravity, but giving the effect of a taller gear ratio and being wider, more traction.  The Parma units were .850" (21.6mm) - these lowered the center of gravity and gave the effect of having a shorter gear ratio.  

The best performance of the four at this point were the H&R foam tires, these tires cut my best lap times from 10.79 with the factory tires to 10.20.  Traction was notably improved with 50%+ more width over the factory rear tires and the effect of a taller gear ratio.  These tires did not allow for "tail out" exits from the corner unless you purposely tried and then it was just a short side step before they would hook up and go!  Even though these tires were taller and acted to cut the gear ratio, the lack of wheel spin exiting the corner on the long straight resulted in topping out the motor about 2/3's the way down the straight and due to the higher traction, braking could be done later as well, so it may be possible to go slightly taller on the gearing with this combo to get some additional speed on tracks with long straights (I am itching to try this combo out on the King track next time I go!)

In regard to the other three tires (Parma Tuna, H&R fish and silicone) - I think these tires were hampered by the fact that the wheels are designed for a 1/8" axle and I am still running the 3mm factory axle.  (I would love to see this changed on later kit releases).  The difference in bores resulted in observed run out on these units and due to them being "firmer" than the foam tires, resulted in reduced traction over that observed with "softer" foam tires.  I do have some old 60's vintage wheels set up for 1/8" axles that are the same OD as the factory aluminum wheels, so I may look at doing the upgrade to 1/8" axles to allow for use of the aftermarket wheels without encountering run out issues. 

 

But as noted - I am very happy with the results thus far and look forward to both taking this kit back to the track and building my next one!  


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Todd Daenzer

#126 Jairus

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 05:08 PM

Excellent Road Course report Todd.  I am hoping to get my Olds on the Drag track next week for a similar report and start my modifications.  
Keep good records of your mods and the overall improvement and I shall do the same!
This is fun!
 


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#127 TuscoTodd

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Posted 17 March 2013 - 04:27 PM

Jairus - definitely looking forward to hearing how the 442 does both "stock" and then as you go through the mods!  The mods to eventually go 4 wheel drive should make a car that not only pulls like a freight train, but probably has impressive braking capability as well!  (might make for a real fun car on a tight twisty course in addition to the drag strip!)  Can hardly wait for some updates!

 

 

On my end, I'll be making a couple tweaks to the guide flag set up on the Galaxy before taking it back up to Marks for more handling/tire tests.  I want to see if I can't get more angular range out of the guide for drifting out of the corners.  If I can't get the range I am looking for by further modifying the stock unit or the chassis more, I will look at changing over to a Parma guide as an alternative. 

For the tire tests, I did pick up a couple more types of tires to try out, so I may look at making the jump to 1/8" axles so that I can evaluate all the tires on a level playing field.  But if I don't get that done before I go up this week, I do have a set of the factory tires now glued and trued on stock rims and also some urethane tires out of Canada in a couple width/height/firmnesses that fit the factory rims, to give a whirl as well. 

 

In addition to more Galaxy testing, I hope to be bringing my latest build to Mark's for a shake down run this week as well! 

I caved and bought another AMT kit, to test the effects of having a notably short wheel base / shorter trunk on handling, as well as having an excuse to put together a new model! This latest kit is the '06 Concept Camero kit.  (needless to say - it is on the complete opposite end of the scale from the galaxy as far as wheel base, length behind the rear axle and overall height) 

I am employing the same modifications to this kit as those made to the Galaxy, with the exception of the axles - since I know I don't want to use the splined ones that came with this kit, this one is getting upgraded to 1/8" axles and the associated bronze axle bushing right out of the gate.  Other than that - I don't intend to make any other notable changes in the set up / assembly of the chassis, so it should be a decent one-to-one comparison in regard to the impact of the shorter wheel base/trunk to the handling characterics.

 

The body for this kit is also getting a full paint job as I didn't want to leave this one in the as molded "white".  (just looked too plain).  A quick trip to the auto store revealed a nice solution though!  The body is now drying with heavy "metal flake" paint by Duplicolor called Metal Specks - Retro Red (http://www.duplicolo...ts/metalSpecks/ )  Once I have the chassis under it, I will post a couple pictures - but have to say it definitely gives it a nice "custom" look under the lights!  :D


Todd Daenzer

#128 TuscoTodd

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Posted 19 March 2013 - 11:49 PM

Here is the Camero getting ready for it's maiden voyage to the track. 

There are a couple things to take care of yet (the guide flag is set too deep yet) - but if all goes well, I will be making a trip up to the track tomorrow to see how she does. 

 

For reference, here are some of the differences in finished dimensions:

 

Galaxy Wheel base:  4.7"  (119.4mm)

Camero wheel base:  4.4"  (111.7mm)

 

Galaxy distance from rear axle to rear of car:  2.3" (58.4mm)

Camero distance from rear axle to rear of car:  1.6" (40.6mm)

 

Galaxy weight:  174.6g

Camero weight:  158.4g

 

I set the Camero up with the same Groove Master motor, 9-31 gearing, and factory tires as the Galaxy.  Changes over the Galaxy include:

- NOT modifying the front of the frame (material removal) like the Galaxy for flag movement, but rather changed to a Parma Guide spaced down off the frame.  This does allow for more angular range than the Galaxy currently has, which should help handling out of the corners

- bronze bushings for use with 1/8" axles were soldered in front and rear

- 1/8" axles installed with vintage Dynamic set screw wheels (same approximate width / diameter as the factory aluminum units supplied in the later kits)

 

Based on the above, I expect this model to be able to "best" the Galaxy's 10.79 on the road course, using the same factory tires - but the proof will be on the track.  :)

 

Here are some photos of the assembled car - the pictures don't really due the heavy metal flake paint justice (need to take a shot out in natural light with no flash) - but it at least gives you an idea.

Enjoy!

Attached Images

  • fender.JPG
  • rear.JPG
  • side.JPG

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#129 TuscoTodd

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Posted 21 March 2013 - 11:18 AM

Track report update: 

The short story - changes to glued/trued factory tires and urethane tires on the Galaxy improved lap times - the newly built, lighter weight Camero kit doesn't out run the Galaxy - yet...

 

And now for those interested - here is the long story...

:)

Both the Camero and Galaxy spent time on the road course at Mark's in Canton last night before the evening's 1/32 Touring Car races - here are the observations:

 

Galaxy -

The track was either a bit slicker, or I was a little off last night as the best lap I could turn with the Galaxy with the same tire / set-up configuration as last week, was a 10.84 running in the same lane (10.79 best last week).  To minimize the number of variables being changed, last night's Galaxy runs were focused solely on performance changes based on tire changes.

- Glued and trued (with 320 grit sand paper) factory tires - resulted in being able to push a little harder through the corners - but traction was still at a premium if pushed too hard, resulting in drifting/fish tailing off the corners.  Best time was an improvement over the non-glued and trued tires though at 10.71, with smoother / more predictable handling being noted.

- Aftermarket "XPG" Extreme Soft Compount Urethane tires from eBay (user paulgg132) - These cast tires looked nice installed on the car from a "detail" standpoint on the tread and outter face (the rear of the tire had the typical deformites associated with tires made in this manner)  I installed these "as received" on a set of the factory aluminum wheels - but did not glue or true them.  This version has a cross hatch tread pattern cast in them that I did not want to potentially remove with truing - plus I was curious to see how they would do "as received".   I only installed these tires on the rear of the car as they have a slightly larger installed OD than the factory tires and I did not want to change the guide flag engtagement as a second potential variable impacting lap times.  That being said, I was pleased with just how well these tires stuck - even with the molded in tread pattern!  Similar to the foam tires tried last week, the car no longer spun on take off or drifted out of the corner (unless done delibrately).  Best lap time was a 10.33 with these. 

I had intended to try out the "slick" version of these I purchased from the same seller - but ran out of time prior to the scheduled race held on that track.

 

Camero -

The handling characteristics of the Camero were NOTABLY different than that of the Galaxy.  The factory tires still showed their limits with drifting, fishtailing and doughnuts still the "reward" for pushing too hard...

- Guide flag modification - this is one area that still needs work as I am not happy with the results of the current set up.  The older kit did not provide the same "L" shaped guide as supplied in the newer kits, I decided to utilized a standard flat top Parma Guide as an alternate - thinking it's one piece design would be stronger/more stable thant the supplied two-piece unit.  I utilized a set of washers on the guide to allow it to be installed directly where the original guide would go.  Time at the track brought to light a couple issues with doing this.  1) The guide sits too low, keeping the factory tires approximately .100" up off the track (I failed to check for that before going to the track)  2) there are NO angular limits - so you can literally do a 360 / "doughnut" while under power when you get too agressive out of a corner!  While having that capability was "fun" - it does have the issue of wrapping the lead wires around the guide when you do this (not a good thing!).  I will be looking at a couple options to resolve this for the next outing as I believe elevating the front tires off the track was promoting tipping/roll over type deslotting when trying to run hard, verses drifting/sliding.

- Axle / wheel upgrade - the change to the 1/8" axles and wheels presented no issues, and the soldered in bronze axle bushings may also be offering an advantage in lower rotating friction over that of the plastic bushings on the Galaxy (the front wheels spin longer/easier as an example)

- Handling / Weight - While I think the guide flag depth setting was the main issue with the Camero's tendancy to roll verses drift, I did try adding some weight to the front end directly behind the guide flag.  I a used a 3/16 oz tungsten flat bar type weight (Pinecar brand) in an effort to shift the center of gravity lower/further forward, hoping it would help minimize the potential to tip/roll (I didn't have the tools / parts at the track to address the guide flag depth issue)  While the weight addition didn't cure the all of the issues, it did provide a positive impact, so I will be interested to see how that might come into play once I have the guide flag issue resolved. 

 

Even with the current guide flag / handling issues, this kit was still a lot of fun to drive!  I look forward to making "adjustments" to the set-up to correct the guide flag issue and getting it back to the track.  I am going to hold off on making any other upgrades (I have an H&R Lightening 40,000rpm motor with a 9 tooth pinion and a 35 tooth crown gear I am ITCHING to try) - as I still want to get as close to an "apples to apples" comparison between the handling / performance of the Galaxy and Camero in "stock" configuration, before diverging too far.

 

Enjoy! 

 


Todd Daenzer

#130 Champion 507

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Posted 23 March 2013 - 06:53 AM

Wow, Todd, most impressive road test reports and attention to detail. Most excellent! :good:


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#131 TuscoTodd

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Posted 13 May 2013 - 05:22 PM

OK - it has been a while since I updated this post but finally have something new to add! 

I am still toying with the handling of the Camaro but decided in the mean time to put together my '66 Olds 442 kit! 

Using what I have learned from the other two builds, I decided to throw some notable modifications into this build.  

Here is the general details on the build...

Body:

The body itself I basically left alone other than releaving the bottom of the molded in inner front fenders to allow the body to sit lower on the chassis.  I carried over the same "industrial strength" velcro for mounting the body that I used on the other two builds as it has proven out to be a very convenient and robust system that offers a little "give" so as wrecks don't result in "cracks" in the body. 

The body is painted with Duplicolor "Buckskin Metallic" base with two coats of Duplicolor "Metal Effex" metallic clear coat.

 

Chassis:

I modified the front guide flag mounting point twice.  Initially, I made the same modification as I had for the Galaxy build to allow for more rotation.  However, after looking at the choice of front wheels/tires and associated front end chassis height, I decided to modify the mount location both lower and further forward than that of the factory (that way I could make the mount more rigid and avoid using spacers to push the guide down to the track)  To get the placement I desired, I mounted a piece of 1/16" x 1/2" brass across the width of the chassis followed by a Slick 7 spring steel guide tounge (Part # S7-25) soldered to that.  Those pieces tied with use of a standard Parma guide flag and pick-up braids put the front tires "just" touching the track, which should allow for maximum front end stability.

6.jpg

 

For the back half of the chassis - I decided to get a bit more radical.  I opened up the motor opening to allow a Parma 501 Deathstar motor to sit down in the spot once reserved for the "groove master" motor.  With milling out the opening to accomodate for the larger diameter 16d motor, I made it a point to both solder the motor to the verticle motor mount plate and also to form up a hoop to go from the the motor mount plate to the uprights for the rear bushings.  This resulted in a notably rigid assembly.  The hoop is made from 1/16" brass rod that I simply formed around a small piece of pipe and then contoured to match the radius of the top of the rear bushing uprights. 

7.jpg

 

Drive line:

As noted, the motor has been upgraded to a Parma Deathstar 501 motor (this is the base, unbalanced motor) and is mated to a 9 tooth pinion gear and currently a 31 tooth spur gear. (I may need to up the ratio to help braking though as I have a feeling I am going to have some notable straight line speed with that tall of a ratio!)  Axles are 2.75" wide 1/8" diameter threaded units riding in soldered in bushings.  Wheels and their associated inserts are some vintage pieces I picked up with the front wearing fairly hard /narrow 60's vintage rubber and the rear being treated to some type of soft rubber/urethane tire that I had on hand from (?), that after rough truing, feel pretty sticky and should work well with the painted surface of the road course up at the commercial track.

 

 

Maiden voyage to the track is currently planned for Wednesday - so hopefully I will have some details to share later this week as to how it performed. 

 

Here are a couple shots after assembly...

Enjoy!

1.jpg

2.jpg

 


Todd Daenzer

#132 racie35

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 03:56 PM

I'm looking forward to picking up one of these( probably the Pontiac) and hopefully find a track close enough to try it. I think its neat these older hard bodies are being offered again
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#133 TuscoTodd

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Posted 14 May 2013 - 08:18 PM

Hopefully, you find them as enjoyable to build and drive as I have!  :)


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#134 TuscoTodd

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Posted 16 May 2013 - 11:15 AM

442 performance report - the short summary is the modifications all proved positive, and I am already looking forward to tweeks for next week's trip to the track!

 

For those that are interested in more detail - here is the low down.

 

Chassis modifications:

- the rear brace between the motor and rear axle uprights did a nice job of stiffening the chassis and is something that I am glad I did with the increased power offered by the Parma 16D motor

- Guide flag lowering/reposition forward - handling was very smooth and predictable with this modification.  Engagement with the slot was spot on with the front tires just barely supporting the front end.  This repositioning of the guide forward did not result in the guide protruding out from the front of the car on this model, but "may" on bodies with a shorter area in front of the tires - like the '66 Nova kit. 

 

Handling / lap times:

- as noted above, handling was VERY smooth and predictable with the car being set up as noted.  Unfortunately, while they look great on the car - the '60's vintage  Strombecker rubber I had on the back was having a tough time getting a lot of bite on the epoxy painted surface.  All deslotting issues where spin out related verses tip related.  It was extremely predictable and easy to control though and after a little time on the track, I could vary from very little slip through the corners to full on controlled drifts through the corners.  It made for a lot of fun to drive - but not the quickest around the track.  Best lap times were associated with minimal drifting and smooth application of power out of the corners as the 16D didn't have much issue with fish tailing and spinning the tires half way down the long straight if you power drifted out of the corner and just hammered the throttle.  (again - a lot of fun - but not too quick).  Best lap time was a 10.88 with keeping in the 10.9x on average.  For a control, I did run the Galaxy for comparison and was able to run a best of 10.73 with averages being in the 10.8x range. 

 

Rear tire traction is the next area of focus.  I have a number of different options that I plan to explore here as I have a variety of vintage tire / wheel combos I can try on the back (I assembled this kit using threaded axles) - in addition to that I do have thread on wheels that will accept both the tires supplied in the kit and the "extra soft" urethane tires that I wrote about in the review of the Camaro above.  The increased traction these tires will offer may necessitate a revision in the rear gearing to helping decell the car on braking but even with steeper gearing the added traction out of the hole should make the car MUCH quicker around the track. 

:D


Todd Daenzer

#135 racie35

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Posted 17 May 2013 - 09:41 AM

Jarius? Is your olds up and running yet? Finished pics?
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#136 Jairus

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Posted 17 May 2013 - 09:58 AM

Bruce,

Nope, not yet.
Well... the chassis runs (poorly) and the body is painted.

But I've had no time to get the decals on it and finish the interior.

 

I stay plenty busy tho... painted four slot car bodies yesterday and built a jaildoor chassis Tuesday.  All for customers, and now I have to go to work.

 

J


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#137 racie35

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Posted 18 May 2013 - 05:09 PM

I'm trying to get a jig for building chassis' myself.....one thing I noticed on these amt cars---the galaxie is probably a promo mold....hood molded in closed...is the plastic different?
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#138 racie35

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Posted 18 May 2013 - 05:10 PM

Jarius? Where do you get motor mounts approx 1 1/4" wide for building from scratch with 36 d motors?
Bruce Thomas

#139 Jairus

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Posted 18 May 2013 - 05:15 PM

The plastic kit was what is known as a "Curbside" kit. That would be an un-assembled kit with no engine details and little or no underside details.
Yes, the hood was molded shut on the "Craftsman" kits and many times (tho not always) these were also sold assembled and painted as Promotional models.

As for the motor mounts.  How many do you need?  I have one or two.
The are not in production far as I know, so the guys here on Slotblog.net are your best bet.

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#140 racie35

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Posted 18 May 2013 - 05:35 PM

I need 2....I'll message you my number
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#141 racie35

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Posted 18 May 2013 - 07:37 PM

I'm gonna try and hunt down an early Tornado promo body to put on one of these....nice and fat and low!
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#142 TuscoTodd

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 04:55 PM

Racie35 - a Toronado would definitely make a cool ride!  I planned on using one of the chassis kits to mount a spare '66 GTO model body I have - but hadn't thought about the possibility of using a Promo model!  Using one of those should make for a unique/neat option!  Look forward to seeing your finished project!


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#143 racie35

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 05:01 PM

We have tons of older models here but I don't have the tornado in promo---but I do have an early unbuilt model kit(amt)... My olds will be here tommorow . gotta try and keep this thing hard body...I think its a cool line of cars
Bruce Thomas

#144 Samiam

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Posted 19 May 2013 - 10:29 PM

AMT would be better off just offering the bodies.

We can then mount them to whatever we got in the box.

 

Or they can join forces w/JK and just use their new 4.5" chassis.


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#145 TuscoTodd

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Posted 20 May 2013 - 01:16 PM

I did some digging through my threaded wheels this weekend and have three "new" sets of foams to try out (they are all "new" - but only the "orange" set is what I would consider "soft") along with a set of two different sets of sponge rubber, one set of standard rubber and then mounted up a set of the new production urethane tires which ought to stick pretty well based on what I saw with the Galaxy tests.  Worst case, I switch it over to non-threaded axles and that opens up allllll sorts of options in foam, fish, silicone, urethane - where rear traction will not be an issue - but roll over due to high speed corning may be! 

Should be an entertaining Wednesday at the track! 

:D


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#146 racie35

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Posted 20 May 2013 - 02:16 PM

Mine came today..gonna change out a few parts and get busy. The motor adapter on both our kits needs to be shaved on the bottom up close to the motor plate..or it'll hold the motor at an angle. Shortening the shaft with a dremel and ditching the adapter would work too but only one screw and then a dab of solder on the motor case. Alum ring gear is also 3.2mm(1/8) not 3mm like the axle..so yeah' a few things to try
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#147 TuscoTodd

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Posted 20 May 2013 - 04:17 PM

That is interesting about the gear - I have just been switching mine out with Parma units as I "assumed" that they were set up for the 3mm axles - verses the 1/8" axles I have been upgrading to.  I still like the Parma units over the Aluminum unit as I don't think it will offer as great of longevity - but I may have to try using that on the '66 Nova kit that I plan to put together next (with upgraded wheels/tires/etc) - appreciate the observation!

 

Look forward to seeing how your kits come together - especially if you decide to go with an alternate body on one of them! 


Todd Daenzer

#148 racie35

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Posted 20 May 2013 - 07:13 PM

My brother is using a different body....I may just use this olds for now....I'll say this about these...ground clearance is no problem...wish they were made lower
Bruce Thomas

#149 racie35

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Posted 20 May 2013 - 07:16 PM

To deal with the gear and axle problem,I'm just gonna drill the rear wheels to 1/8 and use a parma gear and axle. That super 16d is looking like it belongs too.
Bruce Thomas

#150 TuscoTodd

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Posted 20 May 2013 - 08:21 PM

LOL!

Yes, ground clearance is DEFINITELY not an issue! 

I imagine it is better when using the chassis with the 1/32 kits since I they have slightly smaller tire / wheel assemblies supplied with them (approx .100" smaller), but even with those, ground clearance is still MORE than generous.


Todd Daenzer





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