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New AMT slot car kit review


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#201 robbovius

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Posted 18 March 2015 - 06:14 AM

It's only money and the only way to find the body you want.
I have personally purchased a model kit just for the wheels and tires before.
Sometime later I usually find a use for the rest of the kit because I throw nothing away because seats, engines, bodies, decals and custom parts can find there way into other projects.

 

I still have boxes of tires, wheels, Motors and other misc parts left over from my static modelling days as a kid. I have several static cars I'll likely never finish that are decent candidates for slotting. My GF picked out the AMT 1953 Corvette for her car. that static kit is at least 20 years old, probably 25. I've got a couple first gen dodge viper roadsters, a Viper GTS coupe, A miata, a Monogram maserati 3500GT, and a bunch of cars I built but that have been broken or fallen apart over the years. there's a1960 corvette that I built, but the body came apart from the chassis. last week I spent some time re-gluing its trim for eventual resurrection as a slot car.

 

 

@GatorBob, Hermit, I completely spaced out about looking at that tube of Lenk solder I've been using. I'll try to remember tonight, if my apprent cognitive decline doesn't worsen ;-/

 

@ Jariius, BTW that Rat Pickup with the flattie is pretty farking sweet.






#202 robbovius

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Posted 23 March 2015 - 07:46 AM

Update...

 

here';s the chassis as it sat last night. soldered body mounts of .25 x .065 brass, drilled and tapped for 2-56 screws. TSR Falcon motor mounted ot he stock holes but with only one screw at the top. 8 tooth press-on pinion mated to the AMT aluminum 30-tooth crown...which, surprisingly, fits perfectly on a .125 axle without any modification. weird.  that crown was being used on the AMT .115 axles. the AMT wheels and Axle collars both have .115 holes in them, so...WTF?

 

you can also see the brass rod front axle brace I added. chassis is pretty stiff now, noticable heavier than before too.

 

20150322_212729.jpg

 

unfortunately, once I got it all together I found that my nifty handmade guide tongue was too low, and held the front wheel up off the "track" by about .04-.06, so I took it all apart, fired up the micro torch and desoldered the tongue from the chassis. I have a better tongue design in mind anyway, which I expect I'll get done tonight.



#203 jturley

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Posted 29 April 2015 - 01:17 PM

Hi everyone. Just coming back to the hobbies after many years...When I saw these offered for sale I thought it would be great to build one. I am interested in slot cars and scale modeling. I have to say I love these kits and hate them at the same time. I just finished the 70 Camaro and started the paint on the 66 Olds 442. I have the 06 Camaro and just picked up a 62 catalina. This is a great topic and has helped alot with the builds. Thanks everyone.


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#204 NSwanberg

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Posted 30 April 2015 - 04:47 AM

The general consesus is that these are the greatest abortion in the history of slot car racing. With what is known about slot cars today the designers could have done so much better. I think PdL said they would have been better off using the 1965 AMT inline design. It looks to me like the whole point was to sell body shells.


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#205 Mattb

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Posted 30 April 2015 - 07:31 AM

My opinion of these has changed somewhat. They are still a pretty poor design and features, considering what AMT offered as a brass chassis slot car back int he 60's. The reason I changed my opinon is that I have built a few slot cars that are duplicates of some of my street rod buddies full size cars. We are drag racing these cars and enjoying "fun" racing. For a drag car, these cars are ok. If you get the upgraded kits with set screw wheels and better gear, they do actaully run ok in a straight line. The guide is not so hot and you probably want bigger crown gear, but otherwise they are ok for this use. I do set up the rear with old Dynamic sponge tires that work ok with glue. We race 60's style cars, not bullets like the guys run at the big tracks, so these do work out pretty good.

When you price at $15 they are a bargain and at $20 they are still good. If you want to go around a corner, well that is a whole 'nother thing! I would have liked to found a few more at$15 around here, but didn't find any at the local cheap places!
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Vintage Cox Slot Cars

#206 Bob DeWoody

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Posted 18 August 2015 - 12:35 AM

I was essentially given the Camaro kit yesterday.  I actually got the chassis together using the kit parts but I don't expect it to run for long.  Reading this thread I found several ideas that, if applied, would make this a less awful POS.  But the challenge was to get it together using the parts in the box, which I did.


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#207 Mattb

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Posted 18 August 2015 - 08:59 AM


The first requirement on the early series is to throw away the push on wheels and axles and put a new threaded or set screw set of wheels and tires. Same for the guide flag and crown gear. The rest of the kit is ok, but those pieces are throw away parts. I guess the wheels, axle, tire setup could be used if you build model kits just to look at.
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Vintage Cox Slot Cars

#208 Bob DeWoody

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Posted 19 August 2015 - 02:22 AM

Eventually I will probably ditch the garbage parts and see what I can do to make what remains a decent hardbody car.


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#209 Pappy

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Posted 19 August 2015 - 04:53 AM

A friend of mine came to my house with one of these things. I got it together using the stock parts but told him I didn't think it would make it a lap before it broke. 

 

It didn't.  :laugh2:


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#210 Bob DeWoody

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Posted 19 August 2015 - 09:30 AM

I don't think mine would complete a lap on a large commercial track, like a blue king, but I was able to complete a few very slow laps on my 55' mdf track.  My recent experience with tuning on 1/32 cars with similar components probably helped in assembling the kit.  I did end up using two parts not included with the kit, a grub screw for the crown gear ( couldn't find the one that was supposed to be there) and regular Parma copper braid.  I had a Camaro body from a model kit that I had previously mounted on a H&R brass chassis which is what they should have included with this kit.  The subject of how bad this thing is has already been covered thoroughly so I won't add any more fuel to that fire.


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