Isn't that the bushing for the guide? I thought all of these type chassis were that way. Mine is. I dunno.
Plated Plumber Lead Sled Car refurb
#26
Posted 15 March 2013 - 12:17 PM
"We offer prompt service... no matter how long it takes!"
"We're not happy unless you're not happy"
"You want it when?"
#27
Posted 15 March 2013 - 01:37 PM
OK I hear you. The washer stays
But, I will adjust the tilt and clean up the solder blobs on top.
Thanks for the input, gentlemen, that is why I post here.
I don't know everything, and several heads are better than one
Paul Wolcott
#28
Posted 15 March 2013 - 02:29 PM
Yet another cool Pablo project. Build on, sir! I'm enjoying the show.
"We offer prompt service... no matter how long it takes!"
"We're not happy unless you're not happy"
"You want it when?"
#32
Posted 15 March 2013 - 07:55 PM
The car is going to look and go great once you have finished it. Will have to try and source a motor and front wheels for the NOS one of these I've got sitting in the cupboard! Out of curiosity what sort of size front wheels/tires would this chassis run?
Something say a 3/4" front wheel/tire combo? Found some of the hard tire mounted on set screw rims on professor motor and other places and wondered if this sort of size would work.
#33
Posted 15 March 2013 - 09:42 PM
Good question, Paul.
Follow me and you will soon find the answer. Sounds like a Fortune Cookie
I am going to work on it tonight.
Paul Wolcott
#34
Posted 15 March 2013 - 10:03 PM
Either fortune cookie or Yoda speak ! Definitely following with interest
#35
Posted 15 March 2013 - 10:19 PM
Paul, the fronts are 3/4" and the rears are 7/8" (.750/.875)
That will give .063 clearance front to rear.
Paul Wolcott
#36
Posted 15 March 2013 - 10:35 PM
Thanks alot of the info Paul Looking forward to seeing the refurbed car in all it's glory.
#39
Posted 15 March 2013 - 11:13 PM
You weren't kidding when you said it's getting uglier!
- jgntx830 likes this
#40
Posted 15 March 2013 - 11:20 PM
And into the tumbler she goes .........
Paul Wolcott
#42
Posted 16 March 2013 - 12:38 AM
Here comes the good stuff!!!
Make her haul, Paul.
"We offer prompt service... no matter how long it takes!"
"We're not happy unless you're not happy"
"You want it when?"
#44
Posted 16 March 2013 - 01:05 AM
Arm mikes at .513; mags mike at .558 = airgap of .045
There is horsepower here, all I need to do is find it and fix it.
Paul Wolcott
#45
Posted 16 March 2013 - 01:52 AM
Eeeeeek!! Looks like a nasty balance job to me. I always like to see those balance holes inline and centered to help keep the stack together. No I will not go down the tangent path of balancing in two planes.
#46
Posted 16 March 2013 - 03:41 AM
Pablo,
It looks as though the arm is timed to go clockwise, not ccw, which, that would make sense since it turns cw when mounted in the chassis as a can drive.
Are you wanting to make this a can drive or an endbell drive? (hi Bob)
Also, your motor has the weak early Chinese 16-D magnets. Probably should upgrade to a nice set of Parma EPX's or ProSlots.
The balancing drill marks are the way Mura and others did it up to the late 1960's. They were drilled close to the imbalance spot, not the middle of the crown as done today.
Personally, with what I know, I would date this motor as being from 1968 for the following reasons:
1. Pre - B can
2. 16D size or A can as some like to call it
3. 3/32 x 3/32 small 16D size brushes and endbell
4. Pre - use of 36D brush holders and brushes in the endbell
5. Arm balancing holes not in a straight line as was observed earlier.
Wouldn't this chassis be more period correct with a B-can or early c-can? I dunno, I'm just asking. I raced motors like what you have here, but the chassis came out after the tracks closed in 1968 where I was.
"We offer prompt service... no matter how long it takes!"
"We're not happy unless you're not happy"
"You want it when?"
#47
Posted 16 March 2013 - 07:40 AM
"We offer prompt service... no matter how long it takes!"
"We're not happy unless you're not happy"
"You want it when?"
#48
Posted 16 March 2013 - 08:47 AM
Good eyes, Doug, the arm is, indeed, timed for CW rotation at EB side.
It was set up in the car correctly for can drive.
But, the chassis is designed for an EB drive motor.
So, this arm cannot go in this car.
I cleaned it up with Mineral Spirits, just like the good Doktorr said.
Before:
After:
And she goes into storage. I'll find another arm that rotates correctly for this car.
Thanks for the magnet info, Doug, I have some Speed FX mags ready to go.
As far as "period correct" size can, I will check that out.
I appreciate the input !!
Chassis came out of the tumbler nice and clean !
Paul Wolcott
#50
Posted 16 March 2013 - 10:32 AM
Pablo:
I have just what you need, an original NCC20 arm w/ccw rotation and endbell drive. Shoot me a PM with your address and I'll send it to you.
I have one of these chassis myself (although modified to remove the clunky motor bracket) so it would be nice to see this one return to action.