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Retro tuning tips & tricks


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#101 tonyp

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Posted 16 November 2017 - 07:55 AM

If the track braid is uneven I’ll set fronts for the hardest turn on the track like the donut or deadman.


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#102 Matt Sheldon

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Posted 16 November 2017 - 11:30 AM

A tip Tony P. gave me that has really worked well is to set the front axle height with the tires installed and roughly a .012 - .015 shim under them to the block surface, apposed to using jig wheels. Regardless of front tire size your clearance will always end up the same, even if the tires sizes vary from left to right. Every couple of races I check it and if necessary just hit the front axle with a soldering iron and reset the height to compensate for tire wear and foam compression.


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#103 Dominator

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Posted 16 November 2017 - 01:50 PM

Two key things that are sometimes over looked. First, re-true front tires every 2 or 3 races. Just like rears, they can come. Second is to experiment with rear spoiler thickness and height. .004 or .005 is what most use. This weekend at the Fall Brawl I trimmed about 1/16 off my spoiler. Helped to free up the car in the turns and be faster down the straight.
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#104 Dominator

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Posted 16 November 2017 - 01:51 PM

Two key things that are sometimes over looked.

First, re-true front tires every 2 or 3 races. Just like rears, they can cone.

Second is to experiment with rear spoiler thickness and height. .004 or .005 is what most use. This weekend at the Fall Brawl I trimmed about 1/16 off my spoiler. Helped to free up the car in the turns and be faster down the straight.
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#105 Matt Sheldon

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Posted 16 November 2017 - 02:00 PM

Two key things that are sometimes over looked.

First, re-true front tires every 2 or 3 races. Just like rears, they can cone.

Second is to experiment with rear spoiler thickness and height. .004 or .005 is what most use. This weekend at the Fall Brawl I trimmed about 1/16 off my spoiler. Helped to free up the car in the turns and be faster down the straight.

Putting a radius on the corner edges of the spoiler makes a noticeable difference as well


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#106 The Number of

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Posted 16 November 2017 - 02:11 PM

Putting a radius on the corner edges of the spoiler makes a noticeable difference as well


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#107 pmwslots

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Posted 28 March 2018 - 09:43 PM

Sam, you're right most people won't give up their secrets to tuning... I aways have for what I do. They're all my opinion of course...

 

I think the spring tension is to much on PD motors (twieak, bend them to let the tension off slightly). Of course you'll gain RPM, but lose some brake, and lose some motor heat... and my best motor man suggests Big Foot 2 brushes, with Koford springs, 1301 I believe is the number.

 

Guide height IMO is just barely not touching front tires, I mean barely. I like to run the car several laps to see if they have raised the car too much to where the car will tilt out (usually the doughnut). My feeling is in a couple of lanes braid will be worn enough they'll still be making full contact and the tires will start to touch more.

 

Also the guide should slightly be tilted up at 3/32". Under front of guide with the guide not in a slot... so braid wears back to front. Of course this brings front tire height down also, so with tires up slightly, maybe only 5 thou, car is prime throughout the race...

 

Weight is where people disagree (back to tighten or loosen). As with anything there are limits or extremes... think of it this way, if you put hard tires on your car, are you going to gain traction by adding more weight to rear? (No). Way to fix it is softer tires... treated or untreated.

 

Testing is the answer to everything, hardest tire that hooks up to where it punches the doughnut... LOL.more weight in the rear is not my remedy for a loose car, slightly softer tire is, treated or untreated.

Besides my opinion is the weight in rear actually helps loosen the car with centrifugal force. I do like weight on the inside rear of a doughnut, for balance..

 

Body... high speed tracks don't require much spoiler (you'll kill straightaway speed.) Bend spoiler back and lower the back of body. With the hardest tire that'll punch the doughnut... test,test test, you're set.

 

Longer bodies can make the most downforce; also longest portion behind rear wheels as possible makes more downforce. More body in front makes more downforce on front. So to me downforce can equal weight front or rear (as with a wing car, no weight but tremendous downforce).

 

Pan movement... I like more movement. Forward to back and a little side to side, just a little...

 

Spoiler up for flatter tracks... down or thin for higher speed tracks.

 

At larger races the track will change due to temps in the building, glue conditions at beginning of day, and rubber build-up as day goes on... so it's a continuing test and change of tires to keep up with track conditions... this is why the best guys are on the track lots.

 

Gearing... I like to gear for not the longest straight but the shorter or medium one... say on a King the straight from the finger to the bridge (want most punch and best brakes in that section). Races are won on backsides, not the big straight.

 

Like I said these are my opinions...

 

I can only hope you guys that are fast will do the same. These are just toys, let's help our brothers... share your secrets..

Koford springs ?  i looked them springs up and did not see a 1301 ?  did you mean like 313 ? just wondering ty...


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#108 Steve Ritter

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Posted 07 May 2018 - 05:20 AM

Good tip John, using stir stick to attach driver.8c52482106b5aa4461cb19f4ac047bbd.jpg

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#109 Steve Ritter

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Posted 14 May 2018 - 02:29 PM



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