Will the above tips also apply to CTF flexi chassis run without front wheels??
Retro tuning tips & tricks
#76
Posted 08 February 2016 - 07:48 PM
#77
Posted 08 February 2016 - 07:58 PM
I've never had any luck shortening braids in retro, seems to make them springy and more prone to the guide nosing out.
I set my guide height like James, except I never do it on a block, only on the track. I also check it in a couple different places. I usually like to see the rear tires just barely have light show under them when you press down on the guide
Cap
Do you set your braid flat or with some lift? I was a diehard "my braid has to be perfectly flat guy, but have had better luck on tracks with changing braid depth when I have set my braid with a little lift to them.
Matt Sheldon
Owner - Duffy's SlotCar Raceway (Evans, CO)
#78
Posted 08 February 2016 - 08:38 PM
I always run full braids with the ends combed out slightly not pushed flat against the bottom on the guide.
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Anthony 'Tonyp' Przybylowicz
5/28/50-12/20/21
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#79
Posted 08 February 2016 - 10:39 PM
I've never heard of flat braid working well.Cap
Do you set your braid flat or with some lift? I was a diehard "my braid has to be perfectly flat guy, but have had better luck on tracks with changing braid depth when I have set my braid with a little lift to them.
When I see it on a car that way, it's typically burnt on the hot side.
IMO, it should be angled down, a third the way down the blade.
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Mike Swiss
Inventor of the Low CG guide flag 4/20/18
IRRA® Components Committee Chairman
Five-time USRA National Champion (two G7, one G27, two G7 Senior)
Two-time G7 World Champion (1988, 1990), eight G7 main appearances
Eight-time G7 King track single lap world record holder
17B West Ogden Ave., Westmont, IL 60559, (708) 203-8003, mikeswiss86@hotmail.com (also my PayPal address)
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#80
Posted 09 February 2016 - 09:45 AM
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#81
Posted 09 February 2016 - 10:20 AM
I just to a looked at my F1 I raced at HVR Saturday and I didn't have any guide spacers in it! I was at lease .035 out of the slot! I don't know what to say...I quailified 6th and I think I finished 7th. A great car,could be very greater....
#82
Posted 09 February 2016 - 10:23 AM
Racing at Port Jeff with .000 braid depth spoiled you Brian Me too!
Cheers
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Bill Botjer
Faster then, wiser now.
The most dangerous form of ignorance is not knowing that you don't know anything!
Never attribute to malice that which is adequately explained by stupidity
#83
Posted 09 February 2016 - 10:32 AM
I was going to race the new F1 I built at HVR but I decided to go with old reliable,not realizing I didn't space the guide.I'm so confused.....I know you understand what I am talking about.
#84
Posted 09 February 2016 - 11:32 AM
I set mine with some lift also, usually a third to half the blade depth
Ditto
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Anthony 'Tonyp' Przybylowicz
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#85
Posted 04 August 2016 - 04:35 AM
good tip, john. although, I usually wait for dominator to throw out a set of braids, then I dive into the trash bucket to retrieve them for a few more races. with my driving style, a couple of tenths quicker would be a bad thing.
#86
Posted 12 May 2017 - 07:46 PM
That's a coffee stirrer straw that I split with small scissors and slipped over axle. I use either tape or my preferred small drop of E 6000..
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#87
Posted 13 May 2017 - 06:47 AM
Get the best controller you can comfortabley afford and always make sure it is functioning properley, they do make a difference, be sure good contact of the swiper and pivot point be it bushing or bearings, always thank turn marshalls in race or practice, they do a thankless job for a mistake done by some one else. Last but not least....Have a Good Time...thats what it is all about, competition is fun but if you arent haveing fun its a total bust. My best times are seeing old friends and making new ones. As in the old days...." Thumbs Down"
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#88
Posted 13 May 2017 - 02:05 PM
Very good insight tips. What is the best upward tongue (degrees) setting? Consensus seems that dead flat guide tongue is counter productive. Secondly, if there are different tongue angles, how do you compensate, adjust braid to fit a particular tongue setting?
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#89
Posted 13 May 2017 - 08:00 PM
A motor is only as fast as the chassis it's in.
Dominic Luongo
Like Dominator Custom Chassis on Facebook
NERR photos from 2012-April 2016
NERR photos from 2016 to now
#90
Posted 14 May 2017 - 07:55 AM
Very good insight tips. What is the best upward tongue (degrees) setting? Consensus seems that dead flat guide tongue is counter productive. Secondly, if there are different tongue angles, how do you compensate, adjust braid to fit a particular tongue setting?
From what I have seen it is 2 degrees.
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Jeff Strause
Owner, Strause's Performance Racing (SPR)
USSCA 2016 4" NASCAR Champion & 4 1/2" NASCAR Champion & Retro Can-Am Champion
USSCA 2017 All Around Champion
USSCA 2019 All Around Champion
#91
Posted 14 November 2017 - 04:41 PM
So, lets assume that on race day my Can-Am car or GT Coupe car is tight. And I set the car up with the front tires just touching. If for some reason I can not change tires:
1) can I take out spacers under the guide flag to loosen it up? Does this if fact, loosen the car up?
2) and/or if I put more lead weight on the car, do I put it up near the front axle or do I put it back near the rear axle or motor?
What do these options do to the handling of my car?
GRRR 2016 GT Coupe and Stock Car Champion and Overall Champion
My Series Spring 2016 4" NASCAR, JK LMP State Champion, and Endurance State Champion
My Series 2015 4" NASCAR, GTP and Endurance State Champion
GRRR 2015 4 1/2" and F1 Champion
GRRR 2013 & 2014 Evil Flexi Champion
1968 Cleveland Car Model Series race winner - Tom Thumb Raceway, North Royalton, Ohio
1968 Hinsdale ARCO Amateur runner-up
1967 Parma Raceway Indy 500 Champion
#92
Posted 15 November 2017 - 03:15 PM
Bump. I am not feeling any love here.
GRRR 2016 GT Coupe and Stock Car Champion and Overall Champion
My Series Spring 2016 4" NASCAR, JK LMP State Champion, and Endurance State Champion
My Series 2015 4" NASCAR, GTP and Endurance State Champion
GRRR 2015 4 1/2" and F1 Champion
GRRR 2013 & 2014 Evil Flexi Champion
1968 Cleveland Car Model Series race winner - Tom Thumb Raceway, North Royalton, Ohio
1968 Hinsdale ARCO Amateur runner-up
1967 Parma Raceway Indy 500 Champion
#93
Posted 15 November 2017 - 03:54 PM
Not ignoring you, Doc. Just have no idea how to answer your question.
I've always considered setting front wheels/ride height/flag spacing something you set and forget for a particular car and track.
The first thing I do at a race is rip the body off and look at the ride height before I even run the car.
Tuning for loose/tight has always been a completely different issue for me.
Never heard of combining the two, and I consider them 2 separate issues.
Maybe you are on to something. I'd be curious to see what Tony P. says for sure
Paul Wolcott
#94
Posted 15 November 2017 - 03:59 PM
As far as weight placement goes, the theory I buy into is:
-adding weight always loosens a car up, but the further rearward you place it, the greater the effect
-putting weight up front plants the flag but "lightens" the rear end
-putting weight to the rear gives more tire grip but lifts the flag
Paul Wolcott
#95
Posted 15 November 2017 - 04:02 PM
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#96
Posted 15 November 2017 - 04:22 PM
Would you get a more speed if you put the crown gear closer to the motor since the gear is beveled, and less speed the farther you went away from the motor? . What do you cats think about this.
No Pat
If you are using let us say a 9 tooth pinion the axle gear is only going to move 9 teeth per motor revolution whether the mesh is on the big end or the small end of the beveled pinion gear. I guess you could get into the distances from the shaft and the bearing have different amounts of leverage and drag but the effect is so small i see no difference.
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#97
Posted 15 November 2017 - 08:33 PM
Doc, with retro cars once the front wheels are solidly on the track I've never noticed much of a difference with guide spacing unless you started to get the front wheels off the track. I think running the front wheels off the track makes the car loose and tippy.
Lead- Putting lead on the back of the pans seems to plant the cars more and be more stable, lead on the front seems to loosen the cars. Again, I believe this is because retro cars actually roll on the front wheels, flexi cars are opposite this.
Pat, straight gears mesh just fine in hypoid cars, and Eddie is right, the tooth count is the what determines ratio, not gear diameter.
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#98
Posted 15 November 2017 - 08:46 PM
I had this Q'ed up and forgot to hit go.
So, lets assume that on race day my Can-Am car or GT Coupe car is tight. And I set the car up with the front tires just touching.
If for some reason I can not change tires:
Ask for help changing the tires to a harder compound...lol
1) can I take out spacers under the guide flag to loosen it up? Does this if fact, loosen the car up?
You can but I don't think it will loosen up it up very much if the weight is already on the fronts.
2) and/or if I put more lead weight on the car, do I put it up near the front axle or do I put it back near the rear axle or motor?
Front, you can add less weight if you can place it ahead of the guide post. ... leverage.
What do these options do to the handling of my car?
First I would try laying the spoiler way down to loosen it up.
I don't race those but that's my take on it.
Bob Israelite
#99
Posted 15 November 2017 - 09:00 PM
Thank you all for your responses.
GRRR 2016 GT Coupe and Stock Car Champion and Overall Champion
My Series Spring 2016 4" NASCAR, JK LMP State Champion, and Endurance State Champion
My Series 2015 4" NASCAR, GTP and Endurance State Champion
GRRR 2015 4 1/2" and F1 Champion
GRRR 2013 & 2014 Evil Flexi Champion
1968 Cleveland Car Model Series race winner - Tom Thumb Raceway, North Royalton, Ohio
1968 Hinsdale ARCO Amateur runner-up
1967 Parma Raceway Indy 500 Champion
#100
Posted 16 November 2017 - 07:54 AM
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Anthony 'Tonyp' Przybylowicz
5/28/50-12/20/21
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