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Retro tuning tips & tricks


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#76 Zippity

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Posted 08 February 2016 - 07:48 PM

Will the above tips also apply to CTF flexi chassis run without front wheels??


Ron Thornton




#77 Matt Sheldon

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Posted 08 February 2016 - 07:58 PM

I've never had any luck shortening braids in retro, seems to make them springy and more prone to the guide nosing out.

I set my guide height like James, except I never do it on a block, only on the track. I also check it in a couple different places. I usually like to see the rear tires just barely have light show under them when you press down on the guide

Cap

 

Do you set your braid flat or with some lift? I was a diehard "my braid has to be perfectly flat guy, but have had better luck on tracks with changing braid depth when I have set my braid with a little lift to them.


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#78 tonyp

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Posted 08 February 2016 - 08:38 PM

Good rule of thumb is to set the guide height so the fronts are touching the way you want them in the hardest turn, like the donut on a king, deadman on a hill climb which is usually off camber etc.

I always run full braids with the ends combed out slightly not pushed flat against the bottom on the guide.
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#79 MSwiss

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Posted 08 February 2016 - 10:39 PM

Cap
 
Do you set your braid flat or with some lift? I was a diehard "my braid has to be perfectly flat guy, but have had better luck on tracks with changing braid depth when I have set my braid with a little lift to them.

I've never heard of flat braid working well.

When I see it on a car that way, it's typically burnt on the hot side.

IMO, it should be angled down, a third the way down the blade.
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#80 Cap Henry

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Posted 09 February 2016 - 09:45 AM

I set mine with some lift also, usually a third to half the blade depth
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#81 Brian Cochrane

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Posted 09 February 2016 - 10:20 AM

I just to a looked  at my F1 I raced at HVR Saturday and I didn't have any guide spacers in it! I was at lease .035 out of the slot! I don't know what to say...I quailified 6th and I think I finished 7th. A great car,could be very greater....



#82 Half Fast

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Posted 09 February 2016 - 10:23 AM

Racing at Port Jeff with .000 braid depth spoiled you Brian :)  Me too!

 

Cheers


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#83 Brian Cochrane

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Posted 09 February 2016 - 10:32 AM

I was going to race the new F1 I built at HVR but I decided to go with old reliable,not realizing I didn't space the guide.I'm so confused.....I know you understand what I am talking about.



#84 tonyp

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Posted 09 February 2016 - 11:32 AM

I set mine with some lift also, usually a third to half the blade depth


Ditto
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#85 John Luongo

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Posted 04 August 2016 - 04:35 AM

good tip, john. although, I usually wait for dominator to throw out a set of braids, then I dive into the trash bucket to retrieve them for a few more races. with my driving style, a couple of tenths quicker would be a bad thing.



#86 John C Martin

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Posted 12 May 2017 - 07:46 PM

Kinda different way to get interior away from installing and unsoldering lead wires to motor. I thought I'd share..lower C.O.G. also.
That's a coffee stirrer straw that I split with small scissors and slipped over axle. I use either tape or my preferred small drop of E 6000..

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#87 Kim Lander

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Posted 13 May 2017 - 06:47 AM

Get the best controller you can comfortabley afford and always make sure it is functioning properley, they do make a difference, be sure good contact of the swiper and pivot point be it bushing or bearings, always thank turn marshalls in race or practice, they do a thankless job for a mistake done by some one else. Last but not least....Have a Good Time...thats what it is all about, competition is fun but if you arent haveing fun its a total bust. My best times are seeing old friends and making new ones.   As in the old days...." Thumbs Down"


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#88 Mark Wampler

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Posted 13 May 2017 - 02:05 PM

Very good insight tips.  What is the best upward tongue (degrees) setting?  Consensus seems  that dead flat guide tongue is counter productive.  Secondly, if there are different tongue angles, how do you compensate, adjust braid to fit a particular tongue setting?


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#89 Dominator

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Posted 13 May 2017 - 08:00 PM

Make sure your sensitivity is not set too soft. Higher speed tracks need less sensitivity and more punch. Flatter the track more sensitivity.

A motor is only as fast as the chassis it's in.
 
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#90 glueside

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Posted 14 May 2017 - 07:55 AM

Very good insight tips.  What is the best upward tongue (degrees) setting?  Consensus seems  that dead flat guide tongue is counter productive.  Secondly, if there are different tongue angles, how do you compensate, adjust braid to fit a particular tongue setting?

 

From what I have seen it is 2 degrees.


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#91 DOCinCanton

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Posted 14 November 2017 - 04:41 PM

So, lets assume that on race day my Can-Am car or GT Coupe car is tight. And I set the car up with the front tires just touching. If for some reason I can not change tires:

 

1) can I take out spacers under the guide flag to loosen it up? Does this if fact, loosen the car up?

 

2) and/or if I put more lead weight on the car, do I put it up near the front axle or do I put it back near the rear axle or motor?

 

What do these options do to the handling of my car?


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#92 DOCinCanton

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Posted 15 November 2017 - 03:15 PM

Bump. I am not feeling any love here.


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#93 Pablo

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Posted 15 November 2017 - 03:54 PM

Not ignoring you, Doc. Just have no idea how to answer your question.

I've always considered setting front wheels/ride height/flag spacing something you set and forget for a particular car and track.

The first thing I do at a race is rip the body off and look at the ride height before I even run the car.

 

Tuning for loose/tight has always been a completely different issue for me.

Never heard of combining the two, and I consider them 2 separate issues.

 

Maybe you are on to something. I'd be curious to see what Tony P. says for sure :popcorm1:


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#94 Pablo

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Posted 15 November 2017 - 03:59 PM

As far as weight placement goes, the theory I buy into is:

-adding weight always loosens a car up, but the further rearward you place it, the greater the effect

-putting weight up front plants the flag but "lightens" the rear end

-putting weight to the rear gives more tire grip but lifts the flag


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#95 Pat Skeggs

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Posted 15 November 2017 - 04:02 PM

What about gears and mesh . Straight or beveled? . I use mostly beveled, but I do have a couple of straights . When using straights you need a 2 degree bracket, this way your gears mesh better. I put the crown gear in the center of the pinion gear and leave a little play. (Side to side)When using a beveled pinion I use a straight bracket, better mesh. I also put the crown gear in the middle of the pinion gear, but not sure if this is correct? . Would you get a more speed if you put the crown gear closer to the motor since the gear is beveled, and less speed the farther you went away from the motor? . What do you cats think about this.
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#96 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 15 November 2017 - 04:22 PM

 Would you get a more speed if you put the crown gear closer to the motor since the gear is beveled, and less speed the farther you went away from the motor? . What do you cats think about this.

No Pat

 

 If you are using let us say a 9 tooth pinion the axle gear is only going to move 9 teeth per motor revolution whether the mesh is on the big end or the small end of the beveled pinion gear. I guess you could get into the distances from the shaft and the bearing have different amounts of leverage and drag but the effect is so small i see no difference.


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#97 Cap Henry

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Posted 15 November 2017 - 08:33 PM

Doc, with retro cars once the front wheels are solidly on the track I've never noticed much of a difference with guide spacing unless you started to get the front wheels off the track. I think running the front wheels off the track makes the car loose and tippy.

 

Lead- Putting lead on the back of the pans seems to plant the cars more and be more stable, lead on the front seems to loosen the cars. Again, I believe this is because retro cars actually roll on the front wheels, flexi cars are opposite this.

 

Pat, straight gears mesh just fine in hypoid cars, and Eddie is right, the tooth count is the what determines ratio, not gear diameter.


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#98 Gator Bob

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Posted 15 November 2017 - 08:46 PM

 I had this Q'ed up and forgot to hit go. 

So, lets assume that on race day my Can-Am car or GT Coupe car is tight. And I set the car up with the front tires just touching.

If for some reason I can not change tires:

 

Ask for help changing the tires to a harder compound...lol

 

1) can I take out spacers under the guide flag to loosen it up? Does this if fact, loosen the car up?

 

You can but I don't think it will loosen up it up very much if the weight is already on the fronts.

 

2) and/or if I put more lead weight on the car, do I put it up near the front axle or do I put it back near the rear axle or motor?

 

Front, you can add less weight if you can place it ahead of the guide post. ... leverage.

 

What do these options do to the handling of my car?

 

First I would try laying the spoiler way down to loosen it up.

 

I don't race those but that's my take on it.


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#99 DOCinCanton

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Posted 15 November 2017 - 09:00 PM

Thank you all for your responses.


Doc Dougherty
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#100 tonyp

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Posted 16 November 2017 - 07:54 AM

Cap nailed it.


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