76 replies to this topic

[Bill from NH]

Bob, do they have cars hitting the windows at the end of the shut-down area? Or is this an optical illusion?

[Gator Bob]

Bob, do they have cars hitting the windows at the end of the shut-down area? Or is this an optical illusion?

  I've never seen it but I think some did before the GLUED Shutdown and foam/soft pillow as a last resort. Standing a the starting line it could be an optical illusion till you here the sound  

 

But .... We hit and go out the door off the green oval to the left, 4.5" FCR Dirt Late Models hit the glass really Hard

Of course we all (except for the guy who car it is) get a good    out of it. .... "TRAckkk "... BANG!

Marshalls could use a cup 

[Gator Bob]

Here is what I'm thinking...

 

I was just putting an old drag car together for the fun of it, now if we all get to race it's fun x16.

 

Some rough ideas with trying to keep it simple and real for the first round - please share any of your ideas.

 

• Sixteen 'run what you brung" cars.
• Full power on starts.
• ALL Vintage parts or hand made - Guide flags to wires and tires.
• Only laminated motors, any mods - no Neo or Cobalt magnets.
• Bodies - Reproduction or vintage - hard body model, vacuum pulled clear,  or hand craft made (wood, tin, plastic, brass, etc.).
• No modern Pro/Mod looking bodies regardless of year the concept was created from . you get the idea
• I'm looking for some help on the cut off year for components... What do you guys think?

Edited by Gator Bob, 01 February 2014 - 10:23 AM.

[don.siegel]

Hi Bob, 

 

That sounds good; I'm just not too clear on the bodies - no hard bodies? Seems like anything vintage or vintage looking would be fine. 

 

For the cutoff date, I'd say something like 1968; there didn't seem to be much drag activity after that, until the revival, but I'm not really that up to date on the drag scene. 

 

In any case, with the stipulation of vintage parts and laminated motors, that pretty much defines it. Also, how about all open frame motors in general? There were a fair number of DC706 type motors in the early years - probably wouldn't be competitive, but would be even easier to build a dragster! And then of course there's the Pittman DC9003 boat motor... 

 

Don 

[Gator Bob]

I clarified the body rules, it was confusing the way it was written. Let me know if it is clear and simple after the edit.

 

Good point on the DC706 type as open frame.  I was thinking along the lines of the "Heavyweights" which is why I didn't put open frame.

IMO the DC706 is a 'heavyweight' but the 196, 66, in-line types are lightweights.

I would be fine with "laminated OR open frame" motors if you guys want that option.  

 

BTW, Approximately 1/24th scale Body Cars and Rail Jobs, ..... i.e. No 1/32nd scale body cars 196 powered VWs. if  'open frame' motors are approved.

 

Keep in mind I missed this whole 'commercial' high voltage drag race scene back in the day and look to those that were there for guidance.  

As far as time/date/year for components I was thinking about the 'pre-Mabuchi invasion' period for these cars.

 

I didn't want to put a min. weight rule but have been thinking "Heavy Honker" type cars and motors are totally 'retro - flashback'.

 

The older the better... and the less rules the better 'run what you brung' concept.

[don.siegel]

That sounds good Bob. In fact, I'd allow all open frame motors, since they were all available at the time - but I think the small ones would be at a pretty serious disadvantage because of lack of torque - I assume that's why they weren't used in 1/24 at the time... But either way is okay for me. 

 

Here's a couple shots of period dragsters from my photo archives. Starting with a short wheelbase magwinder - the usual Ram adaptation if I remember right. 

 

 

 

A more conventional magwinder setup, although a little the worse for wear...

 

 

 

And a rather interesting Mustang funny car with a homemade motor - ring magnet and all! 

 

 

 

 

And a period chassis I found on ebay, which I'm pretty sure is the same as one featured in a Car Model article on a drag race, made of brass tubing for a Pittman DC704 type motor - which is why I thought of those! 

 

 

Don 

[Paul Jurczyszyn]

God looking at those heavy motors I can't believe that they could be fast. Compared to today's motors.lol
Nice start ill be watching.
Parma Paul

[Lone Wolf]

Bob S, nice find on the Ford. Don, very cool stuff. Especially love the "shaved" motor on the rail.

 

As far as rules, I think 1966 should be the cutoff for bodies and parts. Most all slot cars were "can" powered after that.

 

I would like to see two classes. One for the "big" motors, Ram 857, DC85, big Strombecker etc. Then another class for DC65, Kemtrons, KTM etc, etc. Anything but a can that can be verified pre '66.

 

I for one would have no problem turning up the volts especially on the big motors. Be sure to wear googles for flying com chunks and rubber bits though

 

Last question would be should there be a separate class for rail jobs and one for everything else. Other than that I say we leave it wide open for fun and imagination.

[don.siegel]

The "rail and everything else" sounds like a good classification Bob. 

 

Not sure about the Kemtron/KTM motors - they were pretty much the same thing as the big Pittmans and Rams, maybe a tiny bit smaller, but same general layout. Not sure it's worth making motor classes - it's all friendly competition, so let the ETs decide! 

 

I would think the big Pittmans and Rams would hold up pretty well under higher voltage, especially if epoxied and tied (and the Ram coms were welded), but the Kemtrons had a reputation for blowing up more frequently (they were cheaper and made in Japan - but a couple I've seen seem to have more pure speed, maybe because they came in 4, 6 and 8 volt versions... )

 

Don 

[Gator Bob]

That's what I'm talking about Don. Old stuff!

Joe, for starters 16 cars one anything goes class, if it grows we can split out classes.

 

 I would love to run at 24 or 36 battery volts but will not request the track owner to make any change to his system. IIRC, He took all batteries out for Code and Insurance reasons.

 

OK guys .. how about this?

 

• No 'can' motors.
• Component cutoff date Dec. 31st 1964

 

Steve's Independent Scratchbuilder history section as the timeline guide.

If not listed then a magazine ad or dated race report photo to be provided as evidence of eligibility.

Edited by Gator Bob, 01 February 2014 - 09:21 PM.

[Lone Wolf]

Any rules are OK with me. What kind of time to build limit are we talking?

 

Just thought I'd add another cool drag car. This is an MPC original Mr. Unswitchable with a scratch built chassis. The car is currently under restoration. As always, I should have taken a prior pic. Body was a complete mess with the roof glued on crooked and 2 tubes of glue used for assembly, missing parts etc. Still needs to be rubbed out and finished.

Somebody was repoping the decals but now I can't find them anywhere

 

 

[Gator Bob]

Joe, that car is way beyond cool....

The pipes out the top vs. Zoomies  puts the look 'over the top'.   

 

Was there a real (1:1) flip-top Poncho that ran the exhaust out like that?

[SlotStox#53]

It appears so Bob

 

 

 

Really neat design!  Love the MPC original Joe

[Gator Bob]

Thanks Agent53,

  and it's a steel door car too.

 

I love it, I want it, ... but, why can't I remember it ...    Oh  **  **  

[SlotStox#53]

 

 

 

Love the idea of the padlock/Drag proxy Bob ... should be FUN

[Gator Bob]

Guys who are interested please 'sign up'.

 

So far;

 

Yes -

• Don S.
• Joe L.
• David C. (2 cars?)
• George B.
• Bob I. (1st. alternate if less than 16 cars enter) 

Maybe -

• Mark J.
• Bob S.

 

Then those entering can weigh in on the component cut off date (and time needed to build cars).

• Don is at 1968
• Joe is at 1966

[boxerdog]

I'm OK with either cutoff date-not sure what the implications might be or if it matters.

 

I'd like to ask about a little slack or clarification on tires...I know the Pro Tracks on my Tbird are out, they don't look right at all. But black tires and solid rims might make them pretty close...most of my vintage rubber stuff is dried up and I don't feel like playing Ebay these days. It's your call, I can clean up the wires and such no problem. Also, some of the vintage guides might not trip the track sensors correctly, not sure, like the white dynamics.

 

As far as the magwinder stuff goes, we ran them without bodies around here, I assume that was pretty normal??

[mdiv]

Bob,

 

I get RTR cars from a guy named Herm and I just asked him if he'd build me a Dubro VW Bug with a hot kemtron paddock motor in it; problem is if I remember right he's closed jan 1 - april 1.  If I can get this going I'll let you know.

Mikey

[Lone Wolf]

Paul, thanks for posting the pics. Mikey, I have parts here if you need them.

[mdiv]

Joe, cool!  You got a PM.

Mikey

[Gator Bob]

I guess it's just a 'time capsule' thing.

 

I'm OK with either cutoff date-not sure what the implications might be or if it matters.

 

I'd like to ask about a little slack or clarification on tires...I know the Pro Tracks on my Tbird are out, they don't look right at all. But black tires and solid rims might make them pretty close...most of my vintage rubber stuff is dried up and I don't feel like playing Ebay these days. It's your call, I can clean up the wires and such no problem. Also, some of the vintage guides might not trip the track sensors correctly, not sure, like the white dynamics.

 

As far as the magwinder stuff goes, we ran them without bodies around here, I assume that was pretty normal??

Modern rubber n' bits sure are tempting but some guys might just want to bring out an old ride, change the braids, soak the tires and just run for pure vintage fun.

 

Rail jobs without bodies like the Magwinders are encouraged.

 

Bob,

 

I get RTR cars from a guy named Herm and I just asked him if he'd build me a Dubro VW Bug with a hot kemtron paddock motor in it; problem is if I remember right he's closed jan 1 - april 1.  If I can get this going I'll let you know.

Mikey

 

WTG Mikey !!! 

I bet you were not around when padlocks were in fashion. 

 

"Let Mikey try it" ...  "He likes everything" 

[SlotStox#53]

Just out of curiosity , what sort of chassis would you recommend looking out for to put one of these padlock motor'd Dragsters together? Bearing in mind epay would be the main source of hunting!

Kemtron  or one of the many 2 sided frame chassis for these particular motors be ok?

[boxerdog]

I am going to dig around and see what I can find as far as rubber, I will keep my stuff as original as I can. Really sounds like a blast!

[Gator Bob]

Paul,

It's wide open ... Kemtron, Rinnalli, Cox, Dynamic, any metal Brass, Alum., Copper, Steel, Magnesium, for scratch frames.

Heck .. you can make it out of a old tin toy or piece of copper pipe...

The only rail job I had back in the day was made with parts from an Erector set and an Atlas motor/parts out of my 1/32 Ferrari. At 8 or 9 years old it felt like a major accomplishment.

 

Guys,

I don't intend to ask the track owner for a special track cleaning or know how that is scheduled ....

The track is 'gluey' so vintage rubber might not be an issue ... as long as they are still round after sitting on the car in your box for 45 years .. LOL

 

Anyone that gets stuck and can't find what they need to finish a car... send me a PM and I will help out if I have it.

 

Fun ... like this  or .....  This 

[SlotStox#53]

Thanks Bob no need to put my name down yet ... Will have a look to see what bits I can find... . way too many projects backing up Look forward to seeing what Dragsters emerge for the proxy