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Building an old-fashioned padlock-powered drag car


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#51 boxerdog

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Posted 04 February 2014 - 10:26 AM

Bob, one thing I've noticed about running these old cars today is that they really hate glue. I'd like to ask that, if possible, at least the first 10-15 feet be cleaned and that that some effort be made to remove the "shutdown glue" off the tires as much as possible.

 

I know it's kind of a PITA, but otherwise, they just get slower every run. Some of these current drag  guys really need a glue crutch plus wheelie wheels to get down the track; our dinosaurs especially on 14v. will only bog, get hot and chatter in a lot of glue. Just my opinion.


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#52 SlotStox#53

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Posted 05 February 2014 - 12:34 AM

What did these original cars run in the realm of rear tires? Sponge rubber or actual rubber?

 

Were these ever seriously used?? Have a set off of a junk lot and the proper rubber on them is really grippy!

 

drag wheels tires.JPG

 

As for a motor, had a look through the bits and found a RAM 426? ( motor with huge arm & inboard mounted spur)  with Dynamic motor mount, would that be worthy?



#53 don.siegel

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Posted 05 February 2014 - 04:40 AM

In the period we're talking about, they almost always ran "German" spongies - so called because the originals came from Graupner brand model airplane tires. Early racers found that if you took the skin off these tires, underneath was a sponge material that offered very good traction. These were often the favored tires on both road and drag racing until first silicones, then closed-cell foam tires came along...

 

They come up fairly often on ebay, and the ones I've tried are still fresh after you remove the skin - but there are also some "German sponge" tires that come already prepared, without the skin...

 

The Ram 426 would be fine, probably a bit slower than the padlock motors, but this type of motor was also used in the early drag cars - mostly Pittmans at the time; by the time Ram came out with their clone, the padlock motors were pretty much dominant.

 

Don

 

PS: I doubt the Dynamic drag wheels were ever seriously used, at least not on the winning cars, but they would certainly be a good option for what we're doing, especially if still grippy.



#54 boxerdog

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Posted 05 February 2014 - 10:23 AM

IIRC, we ran the German airplane tires and turned them down, some of the Garvics and Dynamics with the skin cut off, also Tradeship treaded tires which were kind of a soft rubber, and silicones. Most anything worked because a little wheelspin was OK and  power (depending on voltage) was low by today's standards. Too much bite = nose weight in those days before wheelie bars.


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#55 Foamy

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Posted 05 February 2014 - 01:14 PM

Bodies on Magwinders were .010 sheet aluminum.

 

When is this shindig happening?


Dennis Hill
 
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preferably one with a really awesome musical number for no apparent reason."

#56 boxerdog

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Posted 05 February 2014 - 09:44 PM

We never quite got to the body stage. While we looked at all of the magazines and lusted after the real magwinders, we simply didn't have the tools or the talent  at that stage. So we built Russkits, K&Bs and Kemtrons and ran them to death!


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#57 Gator Bob

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Posted 05 February 2014 - 10:31 PM

Bob, one thing I've noticed about running these old cars today is that they really hate glue. I'd like to ask that, if possible, at least the first 10-15 feet be cleaned and that that some effort be made to remove the "shutdown glue" off the tires as much as possible.

 

I know it's kind of a PITA, but otherwise, they just get slower every run. Some of these current drag  guys really need a glue crutch plus wheelie wheels to get down the track; our dinosaurs especially on 14v. will only bog, get hot and chatter in a lot of glue. Just my opinion.

 

We will all have the same conditions, I could run the cars over an 'un-glue board' if you all want.

 

What did these original cars run in the realm of rear tires? Sponge rubber or actual rubber?

 

Were these ever seriously used?? Have a set off of a junk lot and the proper rubber on them is really grippy!

 

attachicon.gifdrag wheels tires.JPG

 

As for a motor, had a look through the bits and found a RAM 426? ( motor with huge arm & inboard mounted spur)  with Dynamic motor mount, would that be worthy?

Build it, send it

 

In the period we're talking about, they almost always ran "German" spongies - so called because the originals came from Graupner brand model airplane tires. Early racers found that if you took the skin off these tires, underneath was a sponge material that offered very good traction. These were often the favored tires on both road and drag racing until first silicones, then closed-cell foam tires came along...

 

They come up fairly often on ebay, and the ones I've tried are still fresh after you remove the skin - but there are also some "German sponge" tires that come already prepared, without the skin...

 

The Ram 426 would be fine, probably a bit slower than the padlock motors, but this type of motor was also used in the early drag cars - mostly Pittmans at the time; by the time Ram came out with their clone, the padlock motors were pretty much dominant.

 

Don

 

PS: I doubt the Dynamic drag wheels were ever seriously used, at least not on the winning cars, but they would certainly be a good option for what we're doing, especially if still grippy.

I remember seeing those Graupner's on the wall and thinking how does anyone get any traction with 'tire tube' shape tires with little ribs on them. :wacko2:  :sarcastic_hand:

"Sir, Could I have a pair of the Candies, please"  :D

 

IIRC, we ran the German airplane tires and turned them down, some of the Garvics and Dynamics with the skin cut off, also Tradeship treaded tires which were kind of a soft rubber, and silicones. Most anything worked because a little wheelspin was OK and  power (depending on voltage) was low by today's standards. Too much bite = nose weight in those days before wheelie bars.

No wheelie bars if that is the 'way it was'.

 

Bodies on Magwinders were .010 sheet aluminum.

 

When is this shindig happening?

Dennis, I hope you and Fred C. join as bin-there-done-that pro-guys.

 

Date not set yet .. would late April to mid June timeframe work?

 

We never quite got to the body stage. While we looked at all of the magazines and lusted after the real magwinders, we simply didn't have the tools or the talent  at that stage. So we built Russkits, K&Bs and Kemtrons and ran them to death!

 

I have seen your builds ... I know you have the talent now.


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#58 endbelldrive

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Posted 06 February 2014 - 09:32 AM

Didya know that John Cukras was a dominant drag guy back in the day?  FYI, Professor Motor has vintage NOS Weldun 64 pitch gears for sale!

 

http://www.professor...p?Search=WELDUN


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#59 Bill from NH

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Posted 06 February 2014 - 04:59 PM

Doug Azary, on here, has a few too.
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#60 Mark Johnson

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 03:18 PM

No neo no enter , darn .

Mark



#61 don.siegel

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 03:54 PM

Just playing around with a possible entry: here's the above short magwinder chassis with a Fiat drag body I had sitting around... no nose, but still at planning stage! 

 

Fiatdragster_zps8a66b7cc.jpg

 

Fiatdragstechassisr_zps58ab85f3.jpg


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#62 SlotStox#53

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 05:40 PM

Nice! Looking good Don :D even in the early stages .

#63 Jeff Buyer

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 06:40 PM

OK, I'm getting interested in this proxy - so when is it and where do we send our car(s)?



#64 Gator Bob

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 08:06 PM

Very cool! :clapping:

 

Tentative race date 5/19 but I will get confirmation from the track owner.

 

I will start a new post with guidelines (pun), entry sign-up, dates, where and how to ship the Rods and Rails.


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#65 Gator Bob

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Posted 25 February 2014 - 09:43 PM

Date confirmed - 19 May 2014 :victory:


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#66 Gator Bob

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Posted 21 April 2014 - 02:41 PM

Updates on the 'wheels-up' 413 CID powered Valiant.

 

On the paint job ... I decided to do it 'in house'. Came out good and I will post pics as soon as I complete the interior.

This has to be one of the worst body pulls ever.

The drop arm has been 'heavily' modified and next step is to replace the 'skinny' lead wires with lamp cord.


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#67 Gator Bob

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Posted 04 October 2014 - 01:50 AM

No holds barred on motor mods ??? I'm game .

 

Mark, We now have a class for 'no holds barred motors' this next 'Rod and Rails' proxy.

 

You game? :good:


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#68 bluecars

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Posted 04 October 2014 - 06:58 AM

How many volts?


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#69 Gator Bob

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Posted 04 October 2014 - 05:05 PM

Hi Red .. 14.7volts. :dirol:

 

That's all they got. :sorry:

Good news is .... A full height brush Pittman 85 could probably make a ga'zillion (and one) passes. :mda: That's a lot of walking if you think about it. :umnik2:

 

36v would be good. :crazy:


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#70 bluecars

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Posted 04 October 2014 - 09:38 PM

:) Sounds like fun! Except all that walking. LOL!!! :heat:  :sarcastic_hand:


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#71 Gator Bob

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Posted 04 October 2014 - 11:59 PM

It's a proxy ... look at all the steps you can save going back and forth. :dance3:  :laugh2:


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#72 bluecars

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Posted 05 October 2014 - 06:48 AM

:laugh2: I was talking about back and forth to the mail box with a 2 lb. car. :sarcastic_hand:  When is it? I've never been around a drag track until Talladega. None of the tracks I frequented in the 60s had one. I always heard about them using wiper motors. My car at the time had vacuum wipers, you know, step on the gas wipers quit :sarcastic_hand:


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Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#73 Gator Bob

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Posted 21 February 2015 - 02:35 AM

:laugh2: I was talking about back and forth to the mail box with a 2 lb. car. :sarcastic_hand:

  :laugh2:

Really Red?  it's only 2 down and 2 fourth  ...  or you could call for a pick-up.  :clapping:


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#74 Mark Johnson

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Posted 19 October 2015 - 11:09 PM

 

Mark, We now have a class for 'no holds barred motors' this next 'Rod and Rails' proxy.

 

You game? :good:

yep ,are side bets allowed ?



#75 Gator Bob

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Posted 31 August 2017 - 10:59 AM

Yes sir !    :victory:

 

Pink ... slips ? :laugh2:


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