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R&C Proxy Event


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#1 Steve Okeefe

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Posted 06 April 2014 - 06:18 PM

Mark your calendars (sorry, I'm old school - your calendar app).  There will be an R&C Proxy Event at Eddie's Raceway on July 20, 2014.

 

We are calling this an "event" rather than a "race" because the cars will not race against each other, but individually against the clock.  Sort of like time trials at Indy.  Complete technical details of each car and ranking by best time will be published here on the Blog. 

 

Here's a photo of the track (known as the "Motherlode"):

 

R&C Proxy Track.jpg

 

As you can see, it is a flat track with lots of turns (I count ten including the two dog-legs, plus the chicane).  Lap length is 140 feet.  Battery power.

 

Eddie's raceway is Rick Thigpen's old stomping ground and he has offered to do the "logisitics" - which is to say he will receive the entries, document and transport them to and from the track, and return them to their owners.

 

Rick has all the details regarding how he wants to do this, so I will leave it to him to post them up on this thread.

 

So, you have about three months to build as many entries as you want, leaving you enough time to get them to Rick.

 

More details to follow as they are worked out.

 

Now, go build some R&C cars!  :D


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#2 SlotStox#53

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Posted 06 April 2014 - 06:30 PM

Oh this is excellent news in regards to the time :D Gives me enough time to finish the Porsche and the Team Pittman GP cars :laugh2:

 

The track looks really cool ,plenty of turns!!! Should prove interesting for gear ratios & handling .... *prays to the no tipping gods in advance* :laugh2:

 

Heck may even give enough time to craft/cobble together a 3rd entry!!!! 

 

This is gonna be interesting :sun_bespectacled: :good: :dance3:


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#3 Pablo

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Posted 06 April 2014 - 07:18 PM

I'm onboard :clapping:


Paul Wolcott


#4 dc-65x

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Posted 06 April 2014 - 08:11 PM

Okie Dokie, here's what we're going to do.

 

The cars will be mailed to me.

 

I will take a series of neato pictures of all the cars (which will be posted on Slotblog).

 

Then the cars get packed in their very own new “Indestructo Box” with bubble wrap insulation:

 

ProxyEvent1.jpg

 

Each box will be labeled like so:

 

ProxyEvent2.jpg

 

I will personally transport all cars down to Eddie’s track for the Proxy event.

 

After the Proxy event I will personally transport all the cars back and return ship them to you via USPS Priority Mail.

 

The car, packed in its padded “Indestructo Box” will be packed into another new shipping box lined with Styrofoam peanuts like so (more peanuts piled on top too):

 

ProxyEvent.jpg

 

Here’s what you need to do:

 

1.  PM me with your name and address as shown below. This will become the shipping label for your return box:

 

Rick Racer

123 Pit Lane

Speedtown, CA 90210

 

2.  In the PM tell me if you want insurance and if so, how much.

 

3.  I’ll PM you back with my Mailing Address and PayPal account info for you to pay for your return postage. You can just stuff cash in you box if you prefer.

 

4.  Make sure you download, fill out AND PACK WITH YOUR CAR the Tech Sheet below describing all your cars features:

 

Attached File  R&C Tech Sheet-2.pdf   12.69KB   184 downloads

 

5.  All cars are to be USPS mailed to me WITH A TRACKING NUMBER. No UPS or FedEx.

 

6.  After you ship your car, PM me again with your tracking number. With the tracking number I will follow your shipment and make sure I’m home to receive it.

 

Here are the costs for return shipping to you via USPS Priority Mail and insurance if desired:

 

One car is $8.95

Two cars are $12.35

 

Insurance is optional and costs extra:

 

$50 is free with Priority Mail

$100 costs $2.60

$200 costs $3.30

$300 costs $5.50

 

Onward.........back to 1966! :victory:


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#5 SlotStox#53

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Posted 06 April 2014 - 11:41 PM

Downloaded & understood Rick :D Time to fire up the Wayback :good:



#6 dc-65x

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Posted 07 April 2014 - 02:50 PM

Good deal Pablo and Paul. :good:

 

The "Event" will be like the timed qualifying done before all the R&C races. Rodney will also comment on all the cars driving characteristics (he's really good at that). We'll have 3 classes, Sports, GT and GP.

 

There will be lots of pictures and a R&C style Tech Chart with all the cars specs and times posted on Slotblog :dance3:


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#7 Gator Bob

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Posted 07 April 2014 - 03:00 PM

Rick and Steve,

 

I like a clear and concise plan of action and rules. This sounds like good clean fun and I would like to support your proxy event.

 

Now .... Let's see if I can't get a car done in time to join in.

 

Were is that rules link again ... LOL


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#8 don.siegel

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Posted 07 April 2014 - 03:01 PM

Excellent news Rick, and I'm glad we've got a little more time - I have 1 race and 1 proxy in the meantime, and not enough time or energy to do all this! 

 

I have photos pasted on my cabinets to inspire me, so the soldering iron will get hot at some point! 

 

Thanks for organizing this. 

 

Don 



#9 dc-65x

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Posted 07 April 2014 - 03:16 PM

That's great Bob and Don. Welcome to 1966 :victory: :D


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#10 SlotStox#53

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Posted 07 April 2014 - 03:55 PM

Welcome on board Bob & Don :D this is gonna be fun!
Can't wait to see all the cars lined up !

#11 Steve Okeefe

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Posted 15 April 2014 - 01:43 PM

Morrissey on (1966) Frames...

 

The well known feature article titled "Morrissey On Frames" in the September 1968 issue of Car Model provides an illustrated synopsis of chassis design development during the 1967 Car Model races in southern California.  But aside from the R&C race reports themselves, no one I know about wrote an article summarizing the critical design developments during the 1966 R&C race series.

 

As it turns out, Mike Morrissey did pen a column for CM, and around the end of 1966 (I'm guessing November / December) he did dedicate some space in his column (the January 1967 issue published mid December) to a description of how, and a little bit about why, chassis design changed so much in the course of six races.

 

Here's a compliation of what Mike wrote in his column:

 

6701 CM Morrissey Column.jpg

 

For those who may not be historians, the "German" tires Mike refers to are also known as "Graupner" tires.  These were originally meant for model airplanes, but scratchbuilders are a notoriously clever lot, and soon discovered they work great for slot car tires - much better than molded solid rubber tires.  Rick T. has used them on a few period korrekt early vintage builds.

 

The "new tires" Mike refers to; Tiny's, V.C. (Van Cleve) and Tracker's, are the first commercially available "closed cell" foam tires (technically known as SBR - Styrene Butadiene Rubber).  As Mike describes, these tires were a game changer in that they got such improved traction that they caused the cars to tilt and flip in turns.  This problem forced changes in the way the chassis of the cars that used them were designed.

 

Closed cell rubber is utterly ubiquitous today, and provides even better traction than the early examples.  So, be aware if you are going to build an early 1966 design car (such as for one of the first three races) with these characteristics:

 

1. Very lightweight and flexible chassis (finished car weight at or less than 3-1/2 ounces / 100 grams)

 

2. Short (at or less than 3-7/8") wheelbase and (at or less than 3/4") guide lead

 

3. Less than 3 inches wide (to fit a narrow body) or 2-3/4" wide as required for GP cars

 

4. A thicker and (relatively) heavier vintage body

 

Using modern closed cell foam tires will almost certainly cause all sorts of problems with tilting and flipping in turns!

 

Here's some things you can do:

 

1. Narrow the tires - a common modern practice in wing car racing

 

2. Add a little bit of weight; try to make it structural, not just ballast, and all of it down low

 

3. Use "older" closed cell cell foam rubber - that didn't get such good traction - or even try to find some German rubber

 

Both Rick T. and Rodney C. (who will be driving the cars and writing notes on their performance) have suggested supplying at least two sets of rear wheels / tires (example: modern rubber and older rubber tires) with each entry.

 

This is pretty much the only way they have to "tune" the cars to the track to get the best lap times - I rather doubt they're going to grind tires or add /remove ballast to / from each car.  It is very much to your benefit to heed their words!  :wave:


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#12 Bruce Wayne

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Posted 17 April 2014 - 10:16 PM

Great news!  :)

This is just what was needed to get me off my butt and finish a project that originally kicked off several months ago . 

 

I liked the idea's outlined in this post right off the bat, especially Steve's down to Earth advise for experimenting and interpreting the "rules" into the modern World as seen fit at your own workbench in a relaxed manner, and do so just for the fun of it!  

 

Thanks for the platform Steve, and thank you Rick for your all around efforts!

 

Count me in for at least one Sports car entry at the the R&C Celebration :D .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Bruce W. Frye

#13 Gator Bob

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Posted 17 April 2014 - 11:19 PM

Steve or Rick,

Is this the discussion thread for rule questions, photos of components for time stamp approval, completed cars ... etc.?


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#14 SlotStox#53

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 07:44 AM

Bob, think this thread was purely for Steve and Rick letting everyone know about the Proxy "event" and how its gonna work :good:

If you need date/part info probably best to start your own R&C thread with your pictures,rule questions and the like :)

Look forward to seeing your creation/s !

#15 dc-65x

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 10:41 AM

................If you need date/part info probably best to start your own R&C thread with your pictures,rule questions and the like :)

 

That's what we've been doing. We've started build threads and laid out our components and ideas for all to see and discuss here:

 

Rod & Custom Road Races revisted

 

There is lots of info there in the pinned topics too.


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There's much more to come...


#16 Gator Bob

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 10:44 AM

Thanks guys!

 

Feel free to delete any clutter I left here.


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#17 Steve Okeefe

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 11:47 AM

Attention builders!

 

Jim Fowler (JimF) has been testing some of his modern F1 cars at Eddie's Raceway on the very same track we will be using, and has been documenting his results.  In the process of doing this has provided a good description of the track itself (thanks JIm!)

 

Jim refers to the track as the "Motherlode".  Not sure why (maybe he or Rick T. can shed some light on the reason).  Anyway, you can read Jim's thread here.


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#18 Bill from NH

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 12:14 PM

Steve, Eddie's flat track has always been nicknamed the "Motherlode."  I think it has something to do with the trouble some racers have driving it. I've never seen the complete track layout, but it reminds me of a LTD.


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#19 dc-65x

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 12:20 PM

Hi Steve,

 

JimF has some great info on the track we'll be using in his thread. He also has great ideas and pictures of MODERN chassis designs.

 

But, everyone please remember we are celebrating the cars and technology of 1966. :)

 

For chassis design ideas, please refer to the 1966 R&C race reports here:

 

Rod & Custom race reports


Rick Thigpen
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#20 Gator Bob

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 02:41 PM

Motherlode?

 

Isn't there gold up in them there hills?


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#21 Don Weaver

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 09:04 PM

Where can I find a copy of the R&C rules or are we building by pictures/drawings?  Thanks.....

 

Don Weaver


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#22 SlotStox#53

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Posted 18 April 2014 - 09:45 PM

R&C Rules
There ya go Don :good:

Also see Ricks link above for the R&C race reports with chassis pictures and info regarding the hardware used.

#23 Don Weaver

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Posted 22 April 2014 - 06:48 PM

Are there any jig wheels available for 15/16" and 7/8" diameter wheels?  Thanks.....

 

Don Weaver


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#24 SlotStox#53

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Posted 22 April 2014 - 09:19 PM

Been trying to find some myself Don, Pablo worked out for those size wheels/tires & 1/16 clearance you need .750 OD front jig wheels & .812 for the rears. He had an old set of jig wheels from a Briggs jig setup that had those exact O.D jig wheels.

 

I've been using the screws that came with my RIcks Jig to set the axle heights if that's any help?

 

set the screws so they keep the axle center at half those diameters (.750 & .812) to give you the full diameter :good:



#25 Bill from NH

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Posted 22 April 2014 - 09:45 PM

Chris Briggs still has his jig wheels for sale on his website. http://jbriggsk9.tripod.com/id33.html  It's $14 for 3/4" fronts & 13/16" rears. You might want to look into Precision Slot Car Products' drag racing jig blocks for larger sizes. They sell a number of different 4-sided corian jig blocks.


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