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Beaver Valley


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#201 Matt Sheldon

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Posted 29 February 2016 - 03:24 PM

I have a couple similar to what Noose is using. For Hillclimbs I had better success with splitting the bite bar tube and freeing up the the 2 rails.

 

On fast Kings with decent glue the stiffer chassis seems to be a little faster, but driver preference/experience is typically the deciding factor.

 

IMG_2052.JPG

 

 


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#202 Gestin

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Posted 29 February 2016 - 03:50 PM

Noose,
Rookie Mike here, the "Video guy" at Fast Tracks that you gave some excellent interior and body painting advice to this past weekend. Thanks again!

I know I have no business scratchbuilding since I haven't even entered a race yet, but I am used to doing things bass akwards.

Here's my first chassis ever attempted (happens to be a beaver) based on the article in issue #2 of Slot Car Mag, since there are very nice step by step instructions and great pictures. I couldn't find a Duffy war beaver kit so I cobbled something together to be similar based On a JK D3 front piece.

I am looking forward to trying it out. Hopefully it will at least go down the track in the right direction. LOL

Hopefully I will be able to join the Retro East guys (a phenomenal group of talent/knowledge there) when I am much less likely to crash every one off the track.

Everyone's gotta start somewhere I suppose.

43abbefeced1684b0ff56ed1ff05e673.jpg

243e82c64abcf588f1b1b2a61fe438bd.jpg
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#203 James Grandi

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Posted 29 February 2016 - 04:26 PM

Anyone know if/where Duffy parts are currently available? I see new production pieces will be out very soon, I'm just curious if there are brackets and such currently available
James Grandi
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#204 tonyp

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Posted 29 February 2016 - 04:27 PM

About 2 weeks for the current parts.

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#205 John Streisguth

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Posted 29 February 2016 - 04:45 PM

Noose,
Rookie Mike here, the "Video guy" at Fast Tracks that you gave some excellent interior and body painting advice to this past weekend. Thanks again!

I know I have no business scratchbuilding since I haven't even entered a race yet, but I am used to doing things bass akwards.

Here's my first chassis ever attempted (happens to be a beaver) based on the article in issue #2 of Slot Car Mag, since there are very nice step by step instructions and great pictures. I couldn't find a Duffy war beaver kit so I cobbled something together to be similar based On a JK D3 front piece.

I am looking forward to trying it out. Hopefully it will at least go down the track in the right direction. LOL

Hopefully I will be able to join the Retro East guys (a phenomenal group of talent/knowledge there) when I am much less likely to crash every one off the track.

Everyone's gotta start somewhere I suppose.

43abbefeced1684b0ff56ed1ff05e673.jpg

243e82c64abcf588f1b1b2a61fe438bd.jpg

Wow, looks great for a first build! 


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#206 Gestin

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Posted 29 February 2016 - 06:13 PM

Thanks John. I guess I'll find out where the weak solder joints are soon enough. ;)
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#207 slotcarone

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Posted 29 February 2016 - 06:56 PM

Looks great!!  :)


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#208 John Streisguth

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Posted 29 February 2016 - 10:04 PM

I found a weak spot in my chassis this past Saturday.  Had the rear axle tube braced for an impact from the front, but not for when the car is backed off a corner at full speed!  :laugh2:


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#209 Cap Henry

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Posted 15 March 2016 - 02:53 PM

Built to be given away at R4, thanks to Matt Sheldon for the kit. I used the Duffy nose, guide tongue, bracket, and trimmed the brackagra piece. Uses custom .060 side and center pans. Came out to 58 grams as pictured, ideal weight for Tom Thumb.
image.jpeg
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#210 Gestin

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Posted 15 March 2016 - 03:26 PM

Very nice looking chassis Cap!

Do you or anyone else know where I can go online to view available Duffy parts with pricing and such? I know TonyP mentioned availability would be coming up in about 2 weeks.... about 2 weeks ago.... But I am not sure where to browse what's available.

Thanks!
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#211 John Streisguth

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Posted 15 March 2016 - 03:42 PM

Contact Matt Sheldon.


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#212 Gestin

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Posted 15 March 2016 - 04:18 PM

Thanks John! I'll PM Matt.
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#213 tonyp

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Posted 16 March 2016 - 05:43 AM

FYI Matt is on a business trip and return on Monday.

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#214 Noose

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Posted 16 March 2016 - 06:10 AM

Here is another variation.  The Mini Beaver for fast Kings.

 

MiniBeaver-1.jpg

 

MiniBeaver-2.jpg


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Joe "Noose" Neumeister
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#215 Gestin

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Posted 16 March 2016 - 06:38 AM

Thanks for the heads up on Matt TonyP.
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#216 Gestin

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Posted 16 March 2016 - 07:26 AM

Noose,
Rookie Mike here. What makes that variant particularly well suited to fast Kings? I have a lot to learn and I really like these beaver designs.

Thanks!
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#217 Noose

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Posted 16 March 2016 - 07:29 AM

Light and shorter wheelbase and guide lead.  Tony can chime in too.


Joe "Noose" Neumeister
Sometimes known as a serial despoiler of the clear purity of virgin Lexan bodies. Lexan is my canvas!
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The only thing bad about Retro is admitting that you remember doing it originally.


#218 tonyp

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Posted 16 March 2016 - 07:37 AM

That sums it up.

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#219 Gestin

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Posted 16 March 2016 - 07:41 AM

Got it. Thanks guys. My first (and only) beaver like chassis had a 15/16" GL.... Would you consider that generally short? I guess I was thinking 1" GL is pretty much normal?
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#220 Noose

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Posted 16 March 2016 - 07:46 AM

15/16ths is not short. About norm like 1 inch.


Joe "Noose" Neumeister
Sometimes known as a serial despoiler of the clear purity of virgin Lexan bodies. Lexan is my canvas!
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#221 Gestin

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Posted 16 March 2016 - 07:49 AM

Ok, thanks Noose!
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#222 Cap Henry

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Posted 16 March 2016 - 09:53 AM

Tony, are the inner straight rails soldered into the brass tubes in the nose piece?



#223 tonyp

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Posted 16 March 2016 - 10:23 AM

No

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#224 John Streisguth

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Posted 16 March 2016 - 11:31 AM

40 years ago you never would have gotten that answer  LOL


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#225 tonyp

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Posted 16 March 2016 - 11:38 AM

How do you know it's right? Lol
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