70 replies to this topic

[DOCinCanton]

After the endurance race is over, are we going forward with the idea to run a race for the JK RTR F1 cars? And how much can we do to make the cars more race-able and not clobber the RTR concept?

I have already purchased a car from Marcos. The car runs very well out of the box, but there are a few issues. The lead wires hold the front of the body up and the rear wing area of the body is very weak.

What do you guys want to do about the car rules?

[Wizard Of Iz]

Good conversation starter.

 

I love the idea of keeping them as close to stock/rtr as possible.  I need to order one for the shop so we can take a look.

 

Initial thoughts without seeing a car.  Do not take my comments as the rules.  We're just talking here --- Keep the stock gear ratio, ride height, body thickness, front tire size.  Perhaps allow independent rotating fronts (if they're not already) or at least allow fingernail polish on the fronts.  Allow bullet-proofing.

[DOCinCanton]

To all, this thread is just a conversation starter. So lets hear from the racers and the MySeries directors.

[MSwiss]

If it's the new wide car, you might want to title your post as a RTR Indy or open wheel car.

As far as I know, there isn't any F1 bodies for these cars.

Feel free to delete this as appropriate.

[DOCinCanton]

Mike, You are right. My RTR car has the Target Indy car body on it; #10 in fact. BTW: this RTR weighs in at 103.4 grams.
Here is a pic.

JK's part number is: JK20817210.

[Wizard Of Iz]

Doc .... Very appropriate that you chose the Target paint scheme.  Now I have something to aim at instead of just taking a wild chance of hitting your car.

[DOCinCanton]

Nice..... At least its my favorite color.

[Michael Rigsby]

Rollin, is this just a rehashed version of the one we ran at Jax a couple of years ago on the Florida Orange using Hawk 7s, Cheetah 7 Indy chassis, and the current Indy body for back then? It was a flash in the pan then and didn't last long and just about everyone at the raceway got rid of theirs.
 
They were fun on the Orange, less so on the hillclimb, and why try them again?
 
At least on this one he redid the chassis somewhat... making it look like a hodgepodge of parts with a less than scale-looking body. May handle slightly better, but looks less like a race car than the old ones did.
 
Verdict... been there done that

[MSwiss]

This is a totally different animal than the C7 based open wheel cars of years ago.

Less scale looking body?

That's what the Indy cars looks like now.
http://www.isobbs.co...ccf8a444d42&i=3

Like Dan mentioned, these cars run well.

PS-I think the lead wire issue can be cured by doing loops and soldering the wires almost straight into the clips.

[DOCinCanton]

Mike R: Like Mike S said its a new car. Runs very well, I was pleasantly surprised. The car has a hawk 7 motor in it. I will check to see if the comm is wrapped or not.

 

Mike S: I am thinking like you concerning the lead wires. I was planning on running them straight back from the guide clips and form a loop behind the front axle.

[Fast Freddie]

I know I don't race in your series but here's what I did since we run the C11 chassis in the Gaithersburg 1100. I used the smaller wire it's the white stuff Casey Scott sells. Loop each strand one time around an arm tube and let it sit for an hour or so. I usually tape the long ends to a tech block. The loops come out perfect and fit nicely between the front struts and within the body, under the front axle. No binding at all. As for the rear wing section I would suggest an angle bent piece of bullet proofing and either staple one side or use the Tenacious Tape to make sure it stays in place. I do this on my Red Fox F1 and Indy bodies.

[Zippity]

How to run the wires from the motor to the guide flag so as to NOT lift the front of the body:

 

View here

[DOCinCanton]

Thank you Ron. I think the middle one or right side wire setup is the way I was going to go. The RTR car is similar to the left side photo. It lifts up the front of the body. You can see the lead wires in my photo above if you look close enough.

[CoastalAngler1]

Don't tell DOC about Casey's wire - he's fast enough already...

[DOCinCanton]

Charlie, I already have Casey's lead wire.

[Gator Bob]

The BPR 'Pinch' as used in SCRRA F1 would probably get the centering job done on these.

[GW/TRP]

Hey Doc,

 

I think it is a good idea to discuss this class openly so we can all decide what we want with a possibility for next years MySeries.  I would like to have a RTR class for everyone especially new racers.  Using the KISS method would allow no changes only the same aftermarket products with the same specifications.  We could use the same two compounds of JK tires like the endurance series cars.  That's it!!! 

 

Best Regards,

Greg Walker

The Race Place

[Ramcatlarry]

The new frame is the newer x-25 type center section and both the traditional narrow and 'new indy' wide pans are available.  The narrow pans fit all of the older F-1/indy bodies,   Review the older "JK SPEC CLASS" rules.  We may use a similar idea in Chicago area in the near future.

[DOCinCanton]

Greg, I agree. That's why I started this post. We could carry forward any RTR car class that we race during the last 4 months of this year into next year. But even with a RTR car class, the fast guys will still win the races. So, I suggest that we run an RTR car class but split the field between expert (the main MySeries guys) and new guys. We could run together, but the new guys compete for their own plaques and driver points. I think that the fast guys scare off new participants. When I started back in 2010, I wondered if I would ever be able to beat Dennis, Terry, Matt, and a few others. Hey, look at me now. I can win 1 out of 100.

[DOCinCanton]

Larry, thank you for your post. I don't know if you are hurting for new racers in the Chicago area, but we could use new racers in Florida. And as Greg said above, I believe that an RTR car class is the way to go. However, the new guys should compete for their own prizes.  Also, the RTR nature must be preserved. Spec tires, maybe spec gear ratio, minimum weight, etc.

 

One thing we do in the MySeries is to have a random pick for some race bucks after each car class is over. The last finishing drivers gets to pull a card first. The winner gets the last remaining card.

[DOCinCanton]

OK, this topic got derailed for a few months, but now I have talked to Greg Walker, Bill Pinch and Marcus Ramos.  Previously Rollin has made his views known. So here we go. The MySeries directors have tentatively agreed to the following rule set.  The objective of this rule set is to keep the car as close to RTR (out-of-the-box) as possible. So, a good driver could walk into the store, buy the RTR car, put it on the track and be very competitive.

 

Limitations:

minimum weight: 101 grams

Max front and rear track width: 3 1/4"

Rear clearance: 1/16" under chassis and gear

Minimum rear tire OD: 0.75"

Gear ratio: 10T/37T

Tires: must be JK brand on plastic hubs

Motor; JK Hawk 7

Must use both motor screws to secure motor to motor plate. Screws must be tight.

Normal Maintenance Items:

Replace front and rear bushings

Replace front and rear axle with similar axle type

Replace braid (ok pretty obvious)

Replace JK 10T pinion with any brand 10T pinion

Replace 37T spur gear with any brand 37T gear

Replace JK Hawk 7 motor

Replace body with any other RTR Indy car body from JK.

Replace guide flag with any brand guide flag.

Replace front and rear tires with JK similar tire.

Allowed modifications: (If your mod is not on this list, its illegal).

Add stiffener (tape or body armor) to front nose section of body between the front tires and to rear wing.

Re-route lead wires.

Add lead weight to top of chassis

Trim body for front axle clearance.

Fix body clips to body.

May add a solder joint between the motor can and chassis.

Apply guide flag spacers to guide flag post.

 

Driver classes: the directors feel that two driver classes will divide the field into Expert and Novice/Beginners. The driver classes will conduct their own race so as to provide turn marshals. Each driver class will have 1st, 2nd and 3rd plaques.  The MySeries directors will determine who is an Expert or Novice. Obviously, if you have finished on the podium of any MySeries race, you are an Expect. Enjoy it!

 

Rollin: I know that this has not been discussed recently with you or Johnny. What do you think?

 

Comments from the racers are welcome.

[DOCinCanton]

Another "allowed modification" needs to be added. It is permissible to remove or add 3/32" axle spacers to the front and/or rear axles.

[DOCinCanton]

During the GRRR event at P1 raceway, we had a brief discussion on the JK RTR Indy car rules. It was felt that it should be stated that you can not solder the front bushings in place. However, I pointed out that since this modification from the RTR nature of the car is not among the "allowed modifications", then it is illegal. We cant possibly list all items that are not allowed because then we would be forever doing this. Its a lot more simple to list the allowed changes.

[Jay Guard]

Hi Guys:

 

When I'm "In Town" I'll be running the new JK Indy class, I love open wheelers.  My only comment is that I'd much rather use the Retro Hawk as opposed to the Hawk 7 but that would necessitate a motor change, not a problem for me but of course may be for a lot of others.

 

Hey, here's a (maybe crazy) idea though... Have the Novice class use the Hawk 7's but require the Experts to run Retro Hawks and run them all in one race.  It would sure give the novice guys an advantage and you would only have to run one race which would allow the out-of-towners to get home a bit earlier.  If an expert buys a new RTR car the track owner could swap the Hawk 7 for a Retro Hawk.  He could then just put it in his show case as never run "take out" for say a buck off. I think that might be a fun race!

[CoastalAngler1]

ANY 64p Gears should be allowed.  Why does the class require JK tires?  Novice...its about time you guys let me win something