101 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

Luciano Luppi ("Asp") from Italy wants a replica of the Mike Morrissey GP Car featured in the October 1967 issue of Car Model magazine.
Chassis, assembly, planning, and logistics by Pablo. Motor by John Havicek. Body by Joe Neumeister.

 

Luciano Luppi ("Asp") da Italia vuole una replica del Mike Morrissey GP auto presenti nel numero di ottobre 1967 della rivista "Car Model".
Telaio, il montaggio, la pianificazione e la logistica da Pablo. Motore da John Havicek. Corpo da Joe Neumeister.

 

 

Parts gathering is done.

 

 

- Wheel inserts by Al Penrose (BWA)

- Motor bracket is a genuine Russkit 495

- Flag, clips, and braid are genuine Cox original 3842

- Rear axle bushings are genuine Dynamic

- Lead wire is Marklin train wire

- Crown gear - genuine Weldun 32 tooth

- Pinion, steel 48 pitch, 7 tooth

- Flag weight, Classic 6 gram

- Flag spacers and body pins are modern Koford

- Rear wheels are Russkit replicas from Electric Dreams, and Professor Motor

- SBR donuts from JK products

- Orange donuts from ?

- 16D motor by H-Power

- Body from Noose

- Rear view mirrors from Bryan Warmack

- Precision 1/8" axles, flag, and wheel spacers from Pacific Coast Hobbies (e-slotcar.com)

 

Thanks to everybody who helped, you know who you are. 

[tonyp]

Fronts are K&B on Russkit wheels. Built many of those back in the day.

[SlotStox#53]

Nice, a vintage replica build by Pablo with as many original parts as possible... Watching closely. 

[Samiam]

... ...

[Hworth08]

That car is discussed by Mike himself on either OWH or Scratchbuilt.com somewhere around 2004 or '05. Not a great amount, something about the body that was used for the photos wasn't the "racing" body as the guide area had not been cut out.

 

Can't remember what was said about the chassis.

[tonyp]

I believe it was one of the chassis used at the Car Model race.

[Half Fast]

All-star cast of builders! Can't wait to follow.

 

Cheers,

[Pablo]

Don't eat all the popcorn waiting just yet, Sam - I got hit by the flu bug about the same time John H got hit with the brush bug bugaboo. 

So it's going to be a few days before I actually fuel up the torch and plug in the irons...

Got my appetite back so that's one good thing. First time I've missed a day of work for illness in many years.

[Bill from NH]

You must have caught something from the dogs.

[Pablo]

I know where I got it but it was from homo sapiens, not canines. 

[Pablo]

JK Donut Wizard tool can be a fantastic help in mounting donuts. It manages the glue by keeping it where you want it, instead of all over the wheels.

 

But vintage wheels have special needs, like 1/8 axle holes, flanged and/or angled lips, and big diameters. The tool uses a 3/32" shaft, and the cones are too small. 

 

 

Lucky for me, on my beach they hire crews to pick up fireworks debris after New Years and Independence Day celebrations. I get there early and snag as many of these plastic cones as possible, in all different sizes. Saving the environment. 

 

 

I cut this one to .660" because the lips on the Morrissey wheels mike at .630". In other words, the cone is slightly larger than the wheel OD.

 

 

Then I sleeved the shaft to 1/8":

 

[hiline2]

I've been eyeing one of those over on ePay, so like what you done in making it work for vintage!

[Pablo]

Cool, Paul, thanks for watching.   

 

By creatively planning with spacers on the sleeved shaft, and gently locking the wheel where you want it, you can make the donuts stop wherever you want.

[Pablo]

With these wheels, a small brass spacer over the sleeve made it stop where I wanted, just short of the hilt.

 

 

Cone slides over the sleeve and butts up to the inboard lip.

 

 

Pre-cutting the donut width. Slide it onto a wide modern hub on the Hudy and and do rough width cuts to make it slightly narrower than the sanding drum.

Then make a rough trim and true of the diameter. My final destination is 7/8" (.875) so I made them about 1.2" for now.

 

 

Make your first angled cut at about the same angle as the lips. I freehand mine with an X-Acto.

 

 

The second cut must be precise. Plan it.

 

 

I pre-glue both wheel and donut. When dry, soak 'em both and slide 'em up the cone and over the wheel to the hilt of the tool.

If you made your second width cut perfect, both sides will look like mine. Very little glue splooge with this method - a quick swipe with a Q-Tip when they are still wet is all you need.

 

 

 

Now the Morrissey wheels sit and cure for a few days. If you try and do them all at once, you end up with cupped wheels. 

[SlotStox#53]

Hope you're feeling better, Pablo. 

 

Neat use of the JK donut tool. Like Paul B. I've toyed with getting one and thought about sleeving the 3/32" shaft... now you've shown me the way. 

When you say "when dry, soak em" are you applying more gorilla snot? Or using, I think acetone or something that Rick T uses to aid the donut sliding on the rim.

Are the front tires original K&B?

[Pablo]

Thanks, Paul E. A garden variety flu bug only kept me from two days work. Feeling good enough to work on slot cars and feeling good enough to go to work. 
 
I'm sure one could make a simple donut tool like this for vintage, but I use mine for modern race cars as well.

As far as the mechanics of gluing donuts to wheels, Jay Guard's tome here on Slotblog is my bible. The only difference, I'm dealing with vintage wheels and donuts.
 
Acetone is a solvent for Krazy Glue. Lacquer thinner is used to mount donuts and thin lacquer paints.
 
The front tires are fresh EJ's #15. Decades younger than vintage K&B tires, and a perfect fit for vintage race car replicas that actually run and are built to perform.

Thanks for asking. 

[Bill from NH]

What glue are you using to glue the donuts to the hubs?

In the day, I mounted plenty of orange donuts using yellow 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive (AKA gorilla snot). Now it's also available in black. We didn't use or need donut mounting tools, because if we had flanged hubs, we cut the flanges off with a lathe. It was commonplace to hang the rubber beyond the outer edge of the hub a few thousands. That was legal back then.

[Pablo]

Left to right:

 

- low grip vintage soft orange tires on Professor Motor Russkit replica wheels

- genuine Russkit front wheels shod with fresh new EJ's #15s

- high grip modern SBR black tires on (unknown origin) Russkit type wheels

 

Like aging beef, they need to sit and cure for a while.

[SlotStox#53]

Lacquer thinner and EJ's #15... check. 

Must remember that number for those front tires as there's a few R&C cars and the year later F1 cars like this one you're doing I'd like to do.

Had so much fun building those two cars for Rick's Proxy. 

[Dennis David]

Pablo,

I use my tire gadget all the time. I filled the cap with white glue. Thanks!!!

Dennis

[Pablo]

You are welcome. The price on those big cones was definitely right. 

 

The green one I used without any filler or stiffening, and it worked great! 

[hiline2]

Dennis, tire gadget? May we see?

 

Pablo, do you ever soak tires in warm water to help stretch?

[Don Weaver]

He's talking about the donut mounting cones in post #11.

 

Don

[Pablo]

Pablo, do you ever soak tires in warm water to help stretch?

 

No.

[Pablo]

Front rubbers trimmed and trued to .880".