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Mike Morrissey GP replica


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#51 Pablo

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Posted 12 October 2015 - 04:42 PM

So I guess you don't want the jig motor? :shok:  :sarcastic_hand:


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#52 Cheater

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Posted 12 October 2015 - 04:49 PM

I'll respectfully pass...


Gregory Wells

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#53 Bill from NH

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Posted 12 October 2015 - 07:27 PM

Do polished brass surfaces tarnish quicker?


Bill Fernald
 

My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#54 Pablo

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Posted 13 October 2015 - 08:24 AM

I dunno. Ask brassy. :D
 
Wanted to try a different adhesive for the inserts, so I did a test run first on some other wheels.
 
IMG_7227.JPG
Paul Wolcott

#55 Pablo

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Posted 13 October 2015 - 01:07 PM

JB Weld "Plastic Bonder" worked great. I tested it by trying to push the test inserts out with the dummy axle. I'm pretty sure they'll break before they come loose.
 
IMG_7237.JPG
 
Luciano opted for an endbell upgrade for the sweet Havlicek powerplant. The motor was running strong and cool as is with standard-sized 16D brushes, so I didn't think it prudent to switch the Tradeship to 36D holders. Holders are soldered to the hoods, polished, and aligned.
 
IMG_7248.JPG

As long as I'm messing with endbells, might as well upgrade my jig motor also - the white one is so distorted I can't trust it to align the tilt on brackets any more.
 
IMG_7249.JPG  
 
Found a sweet FT16D black one that looks like the victim of a hot rewound arm with weak magnets. :laugh2:

IMG_7256.JPG
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#56 Pablo

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Posted 13 October 2015 - 02:52 PM

Endbell swap is complete. Of course, with the changes it needed to be broken it again.
Rotation was immediate with the first "click" of the power supply, she drew 1.1 amps at 3 volts, then started dropping.
Always the mark of a good set-up, at least on my equipment it is. After 15 minutes the amps were down to .85 and had stabilized.
Runs very smooth and cool, sounds potent when I feed it some volts. 
 
IMG_7270.JPG
 
Another typical Havlicek FT16D motor - great performance. I don't know how he always gets them to run so well with stock size 16D brushes, but he does. :victory:

Pinion is a new Sonic steel 7t press on. Should work great with the Weldun 32t crown.


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Paul Wolcott

#57 havlicek

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Posted 14 October 2015 - 07:15 AM

Nice work, Pablo!
 
-john
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#58 Pablo

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Posted 14 October 2015 - 08:15 AM

Thanks, John. I feel like I just performed successful surgery on your infant. :dance3: :victory:

Piece of cake. Zero change needed on the spacing and it's perfect.
Paul Wolcott

#59 Hworth08

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Posted 14 October 2015 - 09:19 AM

A bit off-thread but if all that's wrong with the endbell in post #55 is a melted post, that can be fixed.
 
Just cut off the melted post, "center punch" the center of the old post with a knife and drill 1/16". Cut a length of 3/32" tubing the same as the post was. Install a spring and attach with a 2-56 self-tapping screw.
 
This worked so well that some times we did this to a new endbell.
Don Hollingsworth

#60 Pablo

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Posted 14 October 2015 - 09:40 AM

Not off thread at all, Don.

I'll take a better look at that end bell and maybe swap it for a worse one. :)

Thanks for telling me before I cooked it with the torch. :laugh2:
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#61 Pablo

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Posted 15 October 2015 - 10:16 AM

Wheel inserts ready. I masked three spots on each for the adhesive to bite unpainted plastic

 

IMG_7293.JPG


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#62 Pablo

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Posted 23 October 2015 - 01:24 AM

Noose, Tony P., and dc-65x were extremely helpful in my planning - without friends like them, I'd simply be lost. :friends:
 
Final answer for the Dilworth Honda chassis dimensions:

Wheelbase: 4.125" (4-1/8")
Guide lead: .625" (5/8")
 
Jig motor is trued and checked in all directions - tilt, left/right, and flat.
 
IMG_7341.JPG
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#63 Pablo

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Posted 23 October 2015 - 03:43 AM

Slight inward taper begins in front of the motor.
 
IMG_7349.JPG
 
First set of rails tacked in place.
 
IMG_7366.JPG
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#64 Pablo

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Posted 23 October 2015 - 06:00 PM

Q/A: checking the math to verify the taper is going to work.

Inside widths of the body, front, middle, and rear, are about 1.20", 1.30", and 1.25" respectively.
Outer edges of the rails mike .805", .895", and .863" (they bulge outward slightly from the bracket face to the taper points).
Six .0625" rails = .375"
Front .375" + .805" = 1.18"
Middle .375" + .895" = 1.27"
Rear .375" + .863 = 1.24"

Looks good on paper :)
 
IMG_7384.JPG


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#65 Half Fast

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Posted 23 October 2015 - 06:54 PM

Is their a photo of what the original chassis looked like?

 

Build on!


Bill Botjer

Faster then, wiser now

 

 


#66 Pablo

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Posted 23 October 2015 - 07:00 PM

Thanks for asking, Bill.

Morrissey GP Car Article

Courtesy of Rick Thigpen and Paul Kassens.


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#67 Pablo

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Posted 23 October 2015 - 09:22 PM

Professor Motor Russkit replica wheels shod with SBR rubber.

 

One turned out fine; the other didn't.

 

IMG_7386.JPG

 

They won't leave here until they're both perfect.


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#68 Pablo

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Posted 24 October 2015 - 11:57 AM

It appears the math and planning for the "semi-form fitting" rails worked.

Overall widths are:

1.203"  front

1.275" middle

1.243" rear

 

Starting to look like a slot car chassis.

The midriff bulge isn't as pronounced as it appears in this photo

 

IMG_7411.JPG

 

Now, where did I put those doggone Dremel 409 cutloff wheels? :)


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#69 Pablo

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Posted 24 October 2015 - 01:00 PM

For you donut-mounting aficionados, I discovered something:

Sleeving 1/8" wheels to fit the 3/32" JK tool shaft isn't necessary like I thought.

 

IMG_7412.JPG

 

Neither is making the cone (axle) hole a precise fit. Both hub and cone can be sloppy on the shaft and it works like a charm.

What is important is spacing the hub the proper distance away from the hilt, and ensuring the cone OD is slightly larger than the hub lip.

 

This particular hub needed to be spaced further out than normal due to the taper of the pre-trimmed donuts.

The soaked donut slides onto the hub, then both hub and cone slide right off.

A quick swipe with a thinner soaked Q-Tip and Bam! Done.

 

IMG_7425.JPG


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#70 Pablo

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Posted 24 October 2015 - 04:22 PM

After trimming the uprights, she goes onto the flat block for a check.

Perfectly flat, and the bushings are still in perfect alignment.  :dance3:

 

IMG_7428.JPG

 

Note the slight bulge and taper - I think Morrissey's rails were straight, but he used a different brand of Honda body. I'm sure he would approve of my artistic license to improvise for the body on hand.

 

Many PMs were sent before I decided to do it this way.  :)


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#71 Pablo

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Posted 24 October 2015 - 08:56 PM

Rails to bracket/rails to front axle tube joints all finalized.

 

The first rails inside the bracket both needed more solder. Hard to get the Ungar in there, so... I laid a pair of .032" solder pieces alongside, bathed it in acid, and fired up the mini torch.

 

IMG_7449.JPG

 

This photo is dedicated to Bob Suzuki, a fellow mini torch user from way back...

 

IMG_7461.JPG

 

Not many people know this - Bob is a supreme artist.

 

frank.jpg


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#72 endbelldrive

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Posted 25 October 2015 - 01:00 AM

Did somebody mention torch? Let's light that candle!


Bob Suzuki

#73 Pablo

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Posted 25 October 2015 - 09:21 AM

Yeah, baby, yeah!! :victory:

 

The measurements and math worked, because it form fits the Dilworth Honda pretty well.  :good:

 

IMG_7480.JPG

 

It wasn't easy doing the rails that way. Hopefully the handling will benefit from not having to stress the body much.

Tony P told me the butyrate bodies the pros used back in the day took a set well, so they just forced them to fit.

 

Tom Scott told me this Pablo curved rail chassis was the best handling vintage F1 he'd ever driven:

 

DSC01204.JPG


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#74 SlotStox#53

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Posted 25 October 2015 - 10:35 AM

Now I like that curvy rail F1, Pablo.  :D

What is the shell you built it for?



#75 Pablo

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Posted 25 October 2015 - 11:08 AM

I think it's a '66 Cooper-Maserati, Paul:
 
Curved-rail vintage Classic-powered F1
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#76 SlotStox#53

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Posted 25 October 2015 - 11:16 AM

Thank you. :) :good: Sweet car.

#77 Pablo

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Posted 25 October 2015 - 01:44 PM

Endbelldrive may get a kick out of this:
 
IMG_7489.JPG
 
IMG_7505.JPG
 
:laugh2:
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#78 Pablo

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Posted 25 October 2015 - 06:00 PM

Top: drop arm upstop tubing.
Middle: drop arm hinge assembly with offset solder notch; tolerances +/- 2 thou, rotating surfaces polished with 2000 grit.
Bottom: body mount; pin holes are countersunk a la Mike Steube.
 
p1.jpg
 
p2.jpg
 
I don't know if any of this makes the car go faster, but it makes me happy :D
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#79 Asp

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Posted 25 October 2015 - 06:49 PM

Me, too!
Luciano Luppi

#80 Pablo

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Posted 25 October 2015 - 07:57 PM

No major problems so far, but there is still more work to do.
 
p3.jpg
 
She's looking pretty rough, so might as well give her a (preliminary) tumble overnight. Just to see her in the light of day as a preview. :)
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#81 Pablo

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Posted 26 October 2015 - 08:41 AM

Out of the preliminary tumble.

p4.jpg
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#82 dc-65x

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Posted 26 October 2015 - 11:13 AM

She's a beauty, Pablo. That Mississippi water sure shines a chassis up nice. :good:

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#83 Bill from NH

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Posted 26 October 2015 - 01:47 PM

Looks just like a "Team Russkit" chassis, Pablo. Nice job!

What's your theory about the offset solder notch in the drop arm hinge assembly, now that you pointed it out? :)

Bill Fernald
 

My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#84 Pablo

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Posted 26 October 2015 - 01:50 PM

Thanks, guys. 

Bill, the hinge opening is obviously offset to starboard in the magazine photos. I'm guessing Mike probably didn't want to apply heat directly over where the center rails converge amidships. By offsetting it a little, it's between the rail connections.
 
Flag tube and first set of drop arm rails tacked on, then off the Rick's Jig, for several reasons:

- inner rail set needs to lay right where the jig's center channel is.
- mock up to check flag tube height as relates to flag and braid thickness, front wheels, clearance, etc.
- determine exact placement of flag stops.
- Classic weight is going to need some serious heat and I want the drop arm away from the rails when I go wild with the torch. :D
 
p5.jpg
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#85 tonyp

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Posted 26 October 2015 - 04:50 PM

Looking good. I'm watching you! LOL.

"And if my thought-dreams could be seen they'd probably put my head in a guillotine. But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only." - Dylan

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#86 Pablo

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Posted 26 October 2015 - 07:23 PM

Set screw on the drop arm weight discarded and a piece of .078" rod soldered in place. Just for fun.
 
Before:
 
IMG_7568.JPG
 
After:
 
IMG_7611.JPG
 
:laugh2:
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#87 Pablo

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Posted 27 October 2015 - 11:04 AM

Just for the record, 80 thou of spacers under the flag tube.
 
p6.jpg
 
Now I know why Morrissey didn't solder the drop arm hinge until last. :)
The flag sanding block is a sweet tool for small pieces like this - it's true and flat.
 
p7.jpg
 
Final tumbling
 
p8.jpg
 
p9.jpg
 
p10.jpg
 
p11.jpg
 
p12.jpg
 
p13.jpg
 
p14.jpg
 
p15.jpg
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#88 Half Fast

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Posted 27 October 2015 - 11:08 AM

Georgeous, Pablo!
 
My compliments, it's 1967 all over again. :)
 
Cheers,

Bill Botjer

Faster then, wiser now

 

 


#89 tonyp

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Posted 27 October 2015 - 11:17 AM

Remember back then cars were teched on regular test block with no cut-out for guide. You had to clear .063" with braid in guide and front wheels touching. I wonder how much better the cars would have run with the guide spaced correctly for the track.

"And if my thought-dreams could be seen they'd probably put my head in a guillotine. But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only." - Dylan

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#90 Pablo

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Posted 27 October 2015 - 11:41 AM

Got it covered, Tony. I wanted at least one 10 thou spacer under the flag, and the braid mikes about .017".

Already mocked it up to check in post 84. :)
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#91 SlotStox#53

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Posted 27 October 2015 - 12:13 PM

You're getting better at this chassis building game, Pablo. :laugh2: It came out looking sweet. :D :good:

Like the contrast between the brass rails and the steel bracket strengthening.

#92 dc-65x

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Posted 27 October 2015 - 05:33 PM

Well, Pablo, I don't think a chassis can get much better than that! :sun_bespectacled:

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#93 Pablo

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Posted 27 October 2015 - 05:47 PM

Thanks, guys.  :dance3: Like anything handmade, it has a teeny cosmetic flaw, or two. But engineering-wise, it's right on the money.

 

The Rick's Jig got scrubbed with Dial liquid and baking soda.

 

Now, where did I put those doggone wheel inserts? :crazy:


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#94 Pablo

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Posted 27 October 2015 - 08:42 PM

Wheel insert party...
 
p16.jpg
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#95 Pablo

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Posted 28 October 2015 - 09:21 AM

Final check, flag tube perfect height as planned. On the block, the flag and braid with one 10 thou spacer elevate the .880" fronts about 10 thou. For a track with deeper braid recess, the second spacer can be added.
 
IMG_7720.JPG
 
Perfect clearance in back with .880" rears, and the bottom of the 32t Weldun clears well over 1/32".
 
IMG_7727.JPG
 
IMG_7718.JPG
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#96 Pablo

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Posted 28 October 2015 - 07:46 PM

Bushing widths were designed for 3.00" as per the rules, using Professor Motor X-Wide Russkit replica wheels and some spacers to allow an oiler to enter. 

The (custom cut and polished) axle is 2.23" and uses Koford 10 thou spacers against the bushings, then two Slick 7 20 thou steel spacers against the wheels. 

Two pair of wheels were made to allow for track conditions. The black pair are SBR rubber, and the oranges are... well, orange. :D
 
Luciano's local rules allow for about 3-1/8" widths, so I made another axle to accommodate that. The 2.35" axle with Koford 10 thou spacers against the bushings, a pair of Lucky Bob's .063" spacers, and double Slick 7s against the hubs using the same wheels makes it perfect.
 
Note: All axles on all six wheels stop at the outer edges of the hub bosses to prelude conflicting with the inserts.
 
p17.jpg


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Paul Wolcott

#97 SlotStox#53

SlotStox#53

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Posted 28 October 2015 - 07:59 PM

I love it that this car is gonna be used/raced.   :D

With the attention to detail and finish of the whole package this is gonna fly!

Having being bitten by the vintage bug and enjoying the Rod & Custom cars along with the '67 Car Model ones I'm collecting parts and following your plan "body first" to start building more.   :D



#98 Pablo

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Posted 29 October 2015 - 10:12 AM

Passed the drivetrain test with flying colors. Done.

 

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Paul Wolcott

#99 Noose

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Posted 30 December 2015 - 07:44 AM

And now it's all done as requested.

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Joe "Noose" Neumeister
Sometimes known as a serial despoiler of the clear purity of virgin Lexan bodies. Lexan is my canvas!
Noose Custom Painting - Since 1967
Chairman - IRRA® Body Committee - Roving IRRA® Tech Dude - "EVIL BUCKS Painter"

"Team Evil Bucks" Racer - 2016 Caribbean Retro Overall Champion
The only thing bad about Retro is admitting that you remember doing it originally.


#100 Asp

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Posted 30 December 2015 - 08:32 AM

Joe,

 

Congratulations, really breathtaking.

 

Luciano


Luciano Luppi





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