101 replies to this topic

[SlotStox#53]

Thank you. Sweet car.

[Pablo]

Endbelldrive may get a kick out of this:
 

 

 

[Pablo]

Top: drop arm upstop tubing.
Middle: drop arm hinge assembly with offset solder notch; tolerances +/- 2 thou, rotating surfaces polished with 2000 grit.
Bottom: body mount; pin holes are countersunk a la Mike Steube.
 

 

 
I don't know if any of this makes the car go faster, but it makes me happy

[Asp]

Me, too!

[Pablo]

No major problems so far, but there is still more work to do.
 

 
She's looking pretty rough, so might as well give her a (preliminary) tumble overnight. Just to see her in the light of day as a preview.

[Pablo]

Out of the preliminary tumble.

[dc-65x]

She's a beauty, Pablo. That Mississippi water sure shines a chassis up nice.

[Bill from NH]

Looks just like a "Team Russkit" chassis, Pablo. Nice job!

What's your theory about the offset solder notch in the drop arm hinge assembly, now that you pointed it out?

[Pablo]

Thanks, guys. 

Bill, the hinge opening is obviously offset to starboard in the magazine photos. I'm guessing Mike probably didn't want to apply heat directly over where the center rails converge amidships. By offsetting it a little, it's between the rail connections.
 
Flag tube and first set of drop arm rails tacked on, then off the Rick's Jig, for several reasons:

- inner rail set needs to lay right where the jig's center channel is.
- mock up to check flag tube height as relates to flag and braid thickness, front wheels, clearance, etc.
- determine exact placement of flag stops.
- Classic weight is going to need some serious heat and I want the drop arm away from the rails when I go wild with the torch.
 

[tonyp]

Looking good. I'm watching you! LOL.

[Pablo]

Set screw on the drop arm weight discarded and a piece of .078" rod soldered in place. Just for fun.
 
Before:
 

 
After:
 

 

[Pablo]

Just for the record, 80 thou of spacers under the flag tube.
 

 
Now I know why Morrissey didn't solder the drop arm hinge until last.
The flag sanding block is a sweet tool for small pieces like this - it's true and flat.
 

 
Final tumbling
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Half Fast]

Georgeous, Pablo!
 
My compliments, it's 1967 all over again.
 
Cheers,

[tonyp]

Remember back then cars were teched on regular test block with no cut-out for guide. You had to clear .063" with braid in guide and front wheels touching. I wonder how much better the cars would have run with the guide spaced correctly for the track.

[Pablo]

Got it covered, Tony. I wanted at least one 10 thou spacer under the flag, and the braid mikes about .017".

Already mocked it up to check in post 84.

[SlotStox#53]

You're getting better at this chassis building game, Pablo. It came out looking sweet.

Like the contrast between the brass rails and the steel bracket strengthening.

[dc-65x]

Well, Pablo, I don't think a chassis can get much better than that!

[Pablo]

Thanks, guys.  Like anything handmade, it has a teeny cosmetic flaw, or two. But engineering-wise, it's right on the money.

 

The Rick's Jig got scrubbed with Dial liquid and baking soda.

 

Now, where did I put those doggone wheel inserts?

[Pablo]

Wheel insert party...
 

[Pablo]

Final check, flag tube perfect height as planned. On the block, the flag and braid with one 10 thou spacer elevate the .880" fronts about 10 thou. For a track with deeper braid recess, the second spacer can be added.
 

 
Perfect clearance in back with .880" rears, and the bottom of the 32t Weldun clears well over 1/32".
 

 

[Pablo]

Bushing widths were designed for 3.00" as per the rules, using Professor Motor X-Wide Russkit replica wheels and some spacers to allow an oiler to enter. 

The (custom cut and polished) axle is 2.23" and uses Koford 10 thou spacers against the bushings, then two Slick 7 20 thou steel spacers against the wheels. 

Two pair of wheels were made to allow for track conditions. The black pair are SBR rubber, and the oranges are... well, orange.
 
Luciano's local rules allow for about 3-1/8" widths, so I made another axle to accommodate that. The 2.35" axle with Koford 10 thou spacers against the bushings, a pair of Lucky Bob's .063" spacers, and double Slick 7s against the hubs using the same wheels makes it perfect.
 
Note: All axles on all six wheels stop at the outer edges of the hub bosses to prelude conflicting with the inserts.
 

[SlotStox#53]

I love it that this car is gonna be used/raced.  

With the attention to detail and finish of the whole package this is gonna fly!

Having being bitten by the vintage bug and enjoying the Rod & Custom cars along with the '67 Car Model ones I'm collecting parts and following your plan "body first" to start building more.  

[Pablo]

Passed the drivetrain test with flying colors. Done.

 

 

 

 

 

[Noose]

And now it's all done as requested.

 

[Asp]

Joe,

 

Congratulations, really breathtaking.

 

Luciano