89 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

Beyond perfect, and I love the Graham Hill rowing club helmet stripes - not overdone, not underdone - just right.  

[dc-65x]

Thanks. I really struggle with the detail painting as you can see in the really enlarged pictures. I wish I'd not shown such closeup pics... too many boo-boos show up!    

 

I use alternative methods to brush painting wherever possible. The helmet stripes are cut from a Patto's Place "peel and stick" white meatball decal and the goggle strap is R/C striping tape painted flat black.

[Bill from NH]

What makes that driver Graham Hill is the moustache. Beautiful car, Rick!

 

You might know where your mistakes are, but they're not obvious to the rest of us. Please continue with your close-up photos.

[SlotStox#53]

That came out rather well. 

Beyond amazing finish, Rick.  Looks great alongside your other anglewinders.

How does Graham Hill run on your track?

[dc-65x]

Thanks, Bill.

 

Paul, I tried to really stiffen up the rear of the chassis in the hope of eliminating the dreaded "anglewinder GP chatter." It's still got a little of that problem. I guess it's just the nature of the beast. I really enjoy them though. Inline GPs are easy, anglewinder GPs are character builders.

[Mark Johnson]

Superb.

[Pablo]

I know exactly how to stop that remaining chatter. It's not a chassis problem.

 

It needs another motor brace on the far left hand side, from the top of the axle tube to the upper part of the can.

 

High-powered anglewinder motors tend to want to "climb up" the spur, but they can't because they are attached to the chassis.

 

So they do the best they can, by twisting. Gear end climbs, which makes the other end go down. Once it reaches the point the chassis stops it from twisting, it returns, because now the chassis is twisting it back where it belongs. Then it tries to climb again, and it's doing it all the way down the track. Hence the chatter, bounce, etc.

 

The brace needs to be at the far end opposite the gears. Since you already have an extra brace down low, I'd put this one up top. .047" or .055" should do it.

[dc-65x]

I think building a super beefed-up anglewinder GP motor-chassis unit would be an interesting project... and a good excuse to build another car.

[Pablo]

I wasn't implying it needs beefing up, just one small brace on that far side.

 

If you don't want to mess with the aesthetics of course I understand that.

[Slot Car Mods Magazine]

A stunning looking build...!!!

 

[dc-65x]

Any excuse to build another car, Pablo!

 

You got me to thinking about a version with the motor can becoming a permanent part of the frame. The motor would have to be assembled with the can in place. It might not be practical but it gives me something to ponder.

[Bill from NH]

I think building a super beefed-up anglewinder GP motor-chassis unit would be an interesting project... and a good excuse to build another car. 

 

It might not be as aesthetically pleasing, but you could build a can-drive chassis with a soldered-in motor and use a "U-shaped" motor brace on the top of the rear axle tubing. That's how we built open class C-can wing cars in the '70s.

 

Rick, your idea of building in the motor can as a structure element of the chassis sounds like a British idea. They did it a lot with C-cans. I think some of the smaller Model Car magazines have photos.

[Zippity]

Dammit, Rick. This is my first visit to this thread and I am feeling totally sick in the stomach.
 
What perfection!
 
What amazing photography!
 
You make me feel like I want to give up slot car racing right now.
 
As a keen photographer, I am completely jealous of your work.
 
Bill, what camera are you using and what settings do you employ in your beautiful macros?
 
A million thumbs-up.

[dc-65x]

Thanks Ron

 

My camera is a 10+ year old Nikon Coolpix S1 compact that Edo recommended. I've been having trouble with my background color or white balance lately.

COOLPIX S1

[Regis4446]

 very good job again