63 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

Based on help from fellow Slotbloggers, my best guess (as of today), this body is an early 1950's Cunningham Sports Car.

 

 

 

 

It's thin - about 8 thou - width is 3", wheelbase 3 3/4".

I like it for a build candidate because the sides are straight, it's light and aerodynamic, and plenty of vertical space for the flag.

[Pablo]

Here is Philippe de Lespinay's assessment of it:

"The Barchetta is possibly a 1955 Cunningham C6R that had an Offy engine, but I don't recall if this is a repop of an old body or something created in the 1980s... in any case not too great of a rendition."

 

So there we have it - not a rare body, which gives me artistic license to do whatever I want with it

[TSR]

Pablo, go for it!!!

[Pablo]

Building a custom motor for it as we speak...

[Bill from NH]

So there we have it - not a rare body, which gives me artistic license to do whatever I want with it

 
Green metalflake with fluorescent yellow and orange flames?

[Pablo]

Tradeship endbell shortened by .065" and Mabuchi can shortened by .120"

 

[Pablo]

From experience, I know the gimbal housing will fall out anyway once I start drilling a hole for the ball bearing.

So this time I got smart and removed it first thing.

 

[Bill from NH]

Tradeship endbell shortened by .065" and Mabuchi can shortened by .120"

 

1) Where on the endbell did you shorten it by .065"? 
 
2) Are you building a full sidewinder chassis? Is that why you shortened both the can and the endbell? Or, are you wanting to build-up a short length arm without using a zillion spacers in a regular length setup?

[Pablo]

1. The part that goes inside the can. It's just excess meat and doesn't weaken anything.

Unless it's trimmed, the stack tops of the Puppy Dog arm contact it before the comm can get close to the brush holders.

 

2. Good question - No, inline. I want a high RPM, low torque, small, light motor.

I'll be using C magnets that are just a hair longer than the .400" stack.

As you pointed out, when the arm is in it's happy spot, there would be a mile of unneeded material aft of the magnets.

I could have taken off a lot more than I did, but then it would start to look freakish

[Steve Okeefe]

Pablo,

 

Given the short wheelbase (3-3/4"), a short motor would be proportionally correct.  Also, with the inline drive configuration, a short motor will allow more room to locate the drop arm hinge farther back.

 

Keeping that drop arm hinge as far back as possible will also help with what looks like a short guide lead.  Think "trailing pickup guide".  You are going to build it with a drop arm, right? 

 

On the other hand, building it as a Iso-fulcrum would put what functions as the "drop arm hinge" all the way back close to (or at) the rear axle.

 

Possibilities... 

 

Build on...

 

 

 

 

[Pablo]

You're a little ahead of me, Steve

 

Pete L. thinks it's a Mercedes-Benz:

 

 

Whatever it is, it's got a brand new rare vintage SKF ball bearing silver soldered to the gimbal gizmo:

 

 

[Pablo]

Professor Motor post protectors and 36D brush holders installed, plus the usual routine:

-can and endbell holes drilled for button screws

-brush holders custom sized (shortened), trued with diamond tool, and soldered to pent roof terminals

-wire attachment tabs tinned

-motor attachment holes tapped 2-56; screws custom sized and polished

-fresh coat of red arm dye

 

 

[SlotStox#53]

It's Pablo custom motor time

Build on Sir .

[Ramcatlarry]

​Cunningham C6-R  (1955 LeMans) per racingsportscars.com.    The (#2) one with a grin is the C5-R v-8 - '53 LeMans.  Still not certain what the shell is......

[John Streisguth]

I think Pete's on the right track.  It just did';t look likes the Cunninghams

[Pablo]

Since the BB gimbal isn't secured yet, I used a dummy can to align and secure the brush holders:

 

 

Then soldered the gimbal home perfectly true. I used 60/40 to prevent melting the silver solder holding the BB.

 

[Pablo]

Pro Slot Speed FX "C" magnets in a vintage D can make a hole of about .590 so I cut some steel shims.

A 13mm socket and a hose clamp makes a perfect curve. This time I got smart and secured 'em before clamping.

Did 2 at a time with tape:

 

[Pablo]

Putting C mags in a D can is tricky - the usual approach is flattening, or removing, the louvers on the can,

then shimming top, bottom, and sides. This time I tried something different.

 

Can ID is .610"; magnet height is about .545", a difference of .065", /2 = .033".

The louvers extend about .050" vertically and I wanted to partially close them to make it .033".

I placed a "C" can straightener inside with the can louvers down, held a big screwdriver on top of the tool inside the cooling hole, and "Bap!"

 

 

The first tap took them down to .042", the second tap got it about .035".

Then I tinned a piece of .032" wire and made a clip for the other end that fits between the mags and can.

 

 

In the end, I decided to shorten the can all the way. "in for a penny, in for a pound"

Inserted mags with a .535" Goat Boy slug slathered in ATF and went crazy with the Krazy Glue.

Then honed them to .538" giving me a total airgap of .023".

 

Motor is done and it sounds like just what the doctor ordered - good smooth revs - not a lot of torque.

Can will be painted later with VHT Burnt Copper.

 

 

 

 

[Pablo]

Did some research and found Pete L. to be correct

It's definitely a Mercedes-Benz 300 SLR which won the 1955 World Sportscar Championship.

 

 

"The greatest sports racing car ever built — really an unbelievable machine."

Stirling Moss
Hall of Fame Formula One driver and former Mercedes-Benz team 300 SLR race driver

[Pablo]

Here's an ISO Mercedes I finished in 2012, painted by Jairus:

 

http://slotblog.net/...nline-by-pablo/

[Bill from NH]

I forgot about this car. Is it one of Tom Scott's cars?

[Pablo]

Correct, Bill.

 

I found a good black and white movie to watch as inspiration for this build -

convicted murderer breaks out of jail, steals a Jaguar, kidnaps a willing blonde, and heads for a sports car race to Mexico.

Wheeeeeeeeeee !!

The Jag has similar lines to the Mercedes. Notice how the driver needs a helmet, but the kidnapped blonde doesn't

 

 

Thinking about making this car an ISO, but not sure yet.

 

 

 

 

[Pablo]

Parts gathering and planning complete. "Easier to deviate from a known plan than to have no plan"

 

 

WB 3 3/4" GL 5/16" Width: 3"
Clearance: .032" level
Front wheels: Professor Motor Russkit replica setscrew with EJ's Hobbies #15 tires, 13/16" OD

Rear wheels: Professor Motor Russkit replica setscrew with treated black donuts, 13/16" OD

1/8" axles front and rear

Jet Flag

DUBRO bracket, duffies with Pro Slot ball bearings

Champion steel axle spacers
Crown: 28T Cox
Pinion: 7T Sonic solder-on straight steel
Motor: stock Pro Slot 4002B armature, shortened Mabuchi can with SKF ball bearing, Tradeship endbell,

Professor Motor 36D brush holders, Gold Dust brushes, Speed FX springs and Speed FX "C" magnets.

 

Driver/interior situation undecided, but I have some choices:

 

 

Chassis: ISO hinged at the bracket, inspired by the works of Bob Suzuki



 

[Bill from NH]

The blonde in the first photo of post #22 appears to have dark hair. 

[Pablo]

I see that, Bill. Can't explain why. Trust me, from the front she was a blonde (with dark roots)