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Your choice of FK motor


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#26 Matt Sheldon

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Posted 19 September 2016 - 03:24 PM

If one wanted to try that motor in a stamped chassis, you would just grind the paint off, from the appropriate area, just like racers did with Mura motors, for 20+ years.

Isnt that H&R motor just a Hawk 7?


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#27 Dave Crevie

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Posted 19 September 2016 - 03:30 PM

The H&R Crusher motor is a step up from their Lightning II, which is roughly equal to a Falcon III. The brakes

are better on the Crusher, but still considerably less than a Pro-Slot. We use the H&R motors in the H&R

adjustable chassis with vintage sedan bodies, ala dirt stockers.



#28 MSwiss

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Posted 19 September 2016 - 03:31 PM

Matt,
I wouldn't know.

H&R seems to have a non-existent presence on the internet.

I have zero idea who owns them.

PS-I didn't see Dave's post.

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#29 Bill from NH

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Posted 19 September 2016 - 03:36 PM

The H&R Hawk is an 18K RPM motor that has an endbell like a Playfit Rabbit, but the can has cooling slots top & bottom.


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#30 jimht

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Posted 19 September 2016 - 03:38 PM

?...found by putting "H & R slot car" into Google  :D 

http://www.hnrracing.com/


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#31 anarot

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Posted 19 October 2016 - 07:25 PM

i'm for the sealed motors, either the Falcon 7 or the Hawk 7. Just my personal preference . Maintenance free and they can't really be altered. Just solder in and use until it dies. , that's why I stayed with them when everyone changed over to the JK4200 motors. Didn't Darrens hand controller blow up because the JK endbell got too hot and shorted out?. 


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#32 Zippity

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Posted 19 October 2016 - 07:41 PM

Didn't Darrens hand controller blow up because the JK endbell got too hot and shorted out?. 

 

That is the $64,000 question!

 

At one stage he blamed the Wellington Slot Car Club track wiring for creating the damage.....................



#33 swodem

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Posted 19 October 2016 - 08:15 PM

No I think you will find he thought the very high amperage of the track power supply delivers a killer current that the controllers are not self- protected from in the event of a short


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#34 Samiam

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Posted 19 October 2016 - 08:42 PM

That's the first time I have ever heard of a racer complain about too much power.


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#35 Zippity

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Posted 19 October 2016 - 08:43 PM

Not what he was saying......



#36 swodem

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Posted 19 October 2016 - 08:46 PM

It's what he's saying now. Blow your $1100 controller up at a race event and tell me what you say


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#37 Zippity

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Posted 19 October 2016 - 11:09 PM

It was a Carsteen!!!

 

Where do you get the inflated  $1100 price tag from?



#38 swodem

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Posted 19 October 2016 - 11:10 PM

It was a new 3rd Eye nFet3 - mate you get it wrong more often than the weatherman!!! ;-)

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#39 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 19 October 2016 - 11:17 PM

The H&R product line IS overlooked in most of the commercial raceways.  Our 1/32 plastic car club find their two slowest motors a very good value and substitute for the equivelant Ninco/Carrera/Scalextric motors that retail for twice the money.  The higher RPM products should be tested and considered for inclusion as a usable true 'FK-130'.


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#40 Zippity

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Posted 20 October 2016 - 12:22 AM

It was a new 3rd Eye nFet3 - mate you get it wrong more often than the weatherman!!! ;-)

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Whatever!.

 

For a guy who wasn't even there, you seem to have a lot of knowledge about what really happened!!



#41 swodem

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Posted 20 October 2016 - 12:45 AM

 

Whatever!.

 

For a guy who wasn't even there, you seem to have a lot of knowledge about what really happened!!

 

Scary huh, when you were there and got it all wrong

 

I just deal in the facts Ma'am


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#42 Bazzie

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Posted 22 October 2016 - 12:45 PM

i'm for the sealed motors, either the Falcon 7 or the Hawk 7. Just my personal preference . Maintenance free and they can't really be altered. Just solder in and use until it dies. , that's why I stayed with them when everyone changed over to the JK4200 motors. Didn't Darrens hand controller blow up because the JK endbell got too hot and shorted out?. 


I replaced all 4 transistors on Darren's controller - 3 of them were blown, and I can tell you, our track power is enough to blow a controller, but you still need a short. Rules state we're not allowed to 'time' the brushes, i.e. Trim them to avoid a short across the comm. My LMP motor shorted after a couple nights racing while I was running it in for the nats. I know the symptoms so didn't blow my controller. So I went and 'faced' the brushes (as if the motor's not run in - so it is as it comes from the factory). I removed the brushes after the nats and again they were run in so needed facing or trimming of trailing edge as again they were starting to short out. This btw was on a perfectly aligned brush hood...
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#43 Bazzie

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Posted 22 October 2016 - 12:47 PM

It was a new 3rd Eye nFet3 - mate you get it wrong more often than the weatherman!!! ;-)

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It was the 3rd Eye E-wire, so it's US$750 or NZ$1100

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#44 Zippity

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Posted 22 October 2016 - 12:50 PM

Thanks for clarifying that Eben.

 

More importantly, was the fact that it was not the track wiring that caused the blow out.



#45 Bazzie

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Posted 22 October 2016 - 12:54 PM

Most of the modern controllers use a polyfuse, and they're a bit slow to trip. On 100A from memory they take 2sec to pop. The transistors I replaced can sink 80A a pop, so there was >320A going through there, assuming current was perfectly balanced over the transistors. I have once blown the output stage on my own design controller, and it can sink >340A, but it was sitting there on the short for a bit before it popped. Also of course on a shorted FK4002 - easily fixable on the motor, not so much on the controller...

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#46 Zippity

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Posted 22 October 2016 - 01:38 PM

And now translated into plain English? :scratch_one-s_head:



#47 swodem

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Posted 22 October 2016 - 01:42 PM

It was the 3rd Eye E-wire, so it's US$750 or NZ$1100

 

There are two models of E-wire, the Fet2 (came out a couple years back) and the NFet3 (much more recent). The NFet3 is Darrens one that got shorted out.

 

http://thirdeyetechnology.net



#48 Bazzie

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Posted 22 October 2016 - 01:45 PM

Correct


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#49 swodem

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Posted 22 October 2016 - 01:46 PM

I replaced all 4 transistors on Darren's controller - 3 of them were blown, and I can tell you, our track power is enough to blow a controller, but you still need a short. Rules state we're not allowed to 'time' the brushes, i.e. Trim them to avoid a short across the comm. My LMP motor shorted after a couple nights racing while I was running it in for the nats. I know the symptoms so didn't blow my controller. So I went and 'faced' the brushes (as if the motor's not run in - so it is as it comes from the factory). I removed the brushes after the nats and again they were run in so needed facing or trimming of trailing edge as again they were starting to short out. This btw was on a perfectly aligned brush hood...
Eben

 

I wonder why ALL 4002 motors don't have this shorting issue and controllers are blowing up all over the world with those that use them?

 

I've used these motors for the last 18months and never had a short, blown fuse, or similar. We have run these motors successfully in 6hr enduros until the brushes are nearly out and they still pull like a schoolboy. Brush facing isn't required, the opposite, we bed them in or use a turtle or similar to speed up the process



#50 Bazzie

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Posted 22 October 2016 - 02:03 PM

Yup, some seem to be ok, like my F1 motor, but I know of at least 4 ppl that have had problem motors, me included.


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