43 replies to this topic

[Cap Henry]

You can't go wrong with a Turbo. I won three races in two days with mine. Ran everything from Falcons to Deathstars to Group 10. Awesome cars.

[Randy Tragni]

Cheater,

OK, I recently tried probably 90% of the stuff you recommended to do on a T-Flex. It all worked even better than I thought it would. I still have a few more of your tricks to try such as beefing up the guide tongue but my latest chassis is one of the best-handling that I have built to date. I will build one up all the way soon.

All that said, THANK YOU VERY MUCH for posting this article and for sharing what you have learned.

Any chance of you posting a photo of the underside of one of your cars?

Randy

[Cheater]

Randy,

Thanks for the post. It pleases me to no end to hear that the Tome worked as well for you as I feel it does.

I'll try to dig up a pic of the bottom of a chassis for you and post it in this thread.

[Dan Kennedy]

Cheater,

Thanks for all the insight into tuning these chassis.

You mentioned weights on the back pans? What material do you use and how do you adhere it to the chassis? Picture almost appeared it was under the car?

Thanks for helping all of us noob racers out!

[Cheater]

Dan,

For weight, I use Slick 7 self-adhesive lead sheet, which should be available over the counter at any decently-stocked raceway. JK and perhaps a couple of others also distribute self-adhesive lead sheet.

The lead pieces added to the pictured chassis utilized the cut-outs specific to the Turbo Flex chassis to lower the weight to the level of the chassis metal itself, rather than on top of the metal. Having the lead be .035" lower doesn't sound like much, but it does help IMO.

The lead "dots" at the backs of the pan were first punched out (using an old set of chem lab cork borers I acquired somewhere) in a size that fits the holes in the pans. The dots are positioned flush with the bottom of the chassis with the adhesive side up. To give the adhesive something to stick to, I have placed strips of Lexan bulletproofing on top of the pans, with the adhesive facing down. This gives an adhesive-to-adhesive bond, which is very strong.

The lead in the center slot is done the same way.

Here's the chassis pic from the first post again for easy reference.

[Matt Sheldon]

I have had huge success with this tome and have shared it with many others. A great descriptive piece that helped me get my son's cars dialed. We have ten of these chassis now for various classes and the only diversion I have done is that the weight on the rear pans does not make any difference on the slow motor racing (Mini-Brutes etc.). In these classes the car works and is faster on our local track without the pan weight. Falcon 7 motors and bigger the tome is a fantastic set-up.

Thanks, Greg, for taking the time, it has made a difference.

[Preston M]

Greg,

Thanks so much for this. I had an old T-Flex laying around bent out of shape. I followed your guide, and well... now I have the track records on every track at Slots-A-Lot, and am running 5 tenths faster then everyone. Driving is effortless...

[Cheater]

Wow, guys. It's flattering to think that the tome is still doing anyone some good with a T-Flex.

I get a big kick out of hearing that, which is one of the motivations I had for putting all that info down. Puts a smile on my face every time.

[gotboostedvr6]

Preston,

What classes are you guys running?

_dave

[Phil Irvin]

Wow, guys. It's flattering to think that the tome is still doing anyone some good with a T-Flex.

I get a big kick out of hearing that, which is one of the motivations I had for putting all that info down. Puts a smile on my face every time.

HEHEHEHE...THANKS, GREG... The tome helped me years ago to 'remember' all the work I did put into my chassis... And learned some new stuff, too. It also can be used on just about ANY chassis. The basics learned from the tome and done two + times will always come back to you. It also teaches you what to look for when you pick up any chassis after a race or 'accident' so you can fix it to go fast again... I have had many ask for me look at their chassis real quick to see what is wrong with it...

OLPHRT
PHIL I.

[jenson46]

Gregory, you talk about using a Magnahone diamond coated guide tool, to ensure both sides of the guide tongue are flat. Is this also the Magnahone guide threader?

[Bill from NH]

Paul, yes, it's on one end of the Magnahone guide threader.

[Cheater]

Paul,

Here's a couple of pics I snagged from the guide flag thread. This is the Magnahone tool being used to "true" the guide flag itself, but it's the same operation I do on the top and bottom of the guide tongue.

[TG Racing]

Greg,

Great article!

One question, In your picture of the chassis what is in the middle cutout towards the front? Wire guides? Weight?

Thanks again!

Thom

[Cheater]

Thom,

It's lead weight, hanging from a couple of strips of Lexan bulletproofing. The Slick 7 lead's adhesive is stuck to the downward-facing adhesive on the bulletproofing, making for a very strong bond.

The idea is that the lead is .035" (the thickness of the chassis metal) lower than if it is placed atop the chassis.

Thanks for the nice comments.

[MantaRay]

Simply, a classic...

[Cheater]

Ray,

You're just a shameless flatterer, my good friend. LOL.

[MantaRay]

Edited... awaiting your changes... LOL!

[Cheater]

Done! LOL.