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Gangster Caddy 4.5"


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#51 bluecars

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Posted 12 January 2017 - 07:05 PM

Bill,

Timkens are more a side load bearing. Check out Torrington. :)

Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 





#52 Pablo

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Posted 17 January 2017 - 07:49 PM

Red, did you really think I wouldn't know an idler would change direction of rotation ?

Do I have "newbie" pasted on my forehead ? Maybe I do..... :shok:

 

I could have weenied out and made it an anglewinder. Probably would be done by now. But I like this type of challenge.

After lots of thinking and mock ups on the Rick's Jig, I like the Magoo slicks on the threaded rims with the set screw 42 T 48P brass spur.

 

At this point, the new improved idler gizmo is only half way constructed and awaits some other things to "fall into place" before being finalized

 

IMG_4688.JPG

 

Mid point on the can notches is the left/right balance point on both the real and jig motors. I didn't plan that; just got lucky.

Axle tubing is sized and centered in the jig. I got lucky and had two 42 T spurs, .917" OD, so I put one on each end to adjust the axle height screws

 

IMG_4694.JPG

 

Now I have a pretty good idea on how and where the main rails/motor box/idler gear gizmo/spur/wheels/etc. etc. will sit :)


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#53 bluecars

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Posted 18 January 2017 - 07:22 AM

That's why I said I was sure you already knew it. Only one more thing to say. I think your going to find out that with that hot motor and all the traction, your going to want a larger idler. But I'm sure you have it all under control. Good luck. :)


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#54 Pablo

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Posted 18 January 2017 - 10:44 AM

Thanks. :)

I actually have increased the idler size, from .250" OD to .375", but I did it to enable moving it down lower and to clear the gimbal better.

Any larger than that and it would start creating more space problems than I already have. :laugh2:
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#55 Pablo

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Posted 18 January 2017 - 02:40 PM

With everything laying flat, I secured motor to axle tube temporarily with a bent piece of scrap brass.

Just so stuff won't flop around while I thrash a motor box together :)

 

IMG_4700.JPG

 

Now I can get the axle height adjusters out of the way and mock up the threaded axle, wheels, and spur gear.

With a piece of .063" under the jig motor, now I have a real time view of exactly what is going to fit where

 

IMG_4702.JPG

 


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#56 Pablo

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Posted 20 January 2017 - 05:20 PM

The motor box may be overbuilt, but my theories are:

-big heavy powerful vintage motor needs a strong box

-a little more weight (even some up high) to make it happen is acceptable

-it's a Cadillac :D

 

The motor fits like a glove, and will be screwed in left side with a brass 2-56 screw (lower only) and soldered in on right side.

Perfectly weight centered left/right

 

IMG_4711.JPG

 


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#57 Pablo

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Posted 21 January 2017 - 06:56 PM

Idler gear box, take 2. This time I took a smart pill and used two old tricks for delicate maneuvers like this:

-used my 25W N454 Hakko, a small iron for delicate work, in addition to the Ungar

-silver solder in some places and 60/40 in others to avoid melting joints when I didn't want them to :)

 

VXB BB's silver soldered to the tabs, 16T gear and 3/32" shaft polished. A piece of .078" wire added to the motor box rails is the starting point

 

IMG_4718.JPG

 

.039" wire wraparound braces connect to and secure the outboard tab. Right rear wheel barely clears the gizmo, just like I thought it would

 

IMG_4730.JPG

 

Magoo tires trimmed and trued to 1.044" OD and .485" width

 

IMG_4739.JPG

 

 

 

 


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#58 Pablo

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Posted 23 January 2017 - 04:09 PM

Jet flag, Classic weight, and (shortened) Slick 7 steel tongue given the usual treatment - everything sanded flat and all four rotating surfaces faced.

Don't know how much it helps on a drag car but it can't hurt.
 
IMG_4743.JPG


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#59 Bill from NH

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Posted 23 January 2017 - 04:34 PM

Drag guides don't need to rotate.

Are you putting the 36D behind the rear axle to build a wheelstander? :)

Bill Fernald
 

My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#60 Pablo

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Posted 23 January 2017 - 05:23 PM

Like I said, I don't think free rotation of the flag will hurt. If the traction is uneven and the car pulls one way or the other, I'd like my flag to stay parallel to the slot instead of digging in. :)
 
I guess you aren't following this build much to think the motor is behind the axle. :laugh2:

But what would you say if I told you I can put all the horsepower into forward motion yet still have the car pop a wheelie? :shok:

I can't guarantee it, but I'm working in that direction...
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#61 Cap Henry

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Posted 23 January 2017 - 06:08 PM

Normally on drag cars you tighten the guide nut down tight so the car doesn't wander.

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#62 CoastalAngler1

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Posted 23 January 2017 - 06:40 PM

Tighten that guide nut, and get a glue board.  :good:

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#63 Bill from NH

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Posted 23 January 2017 - 07:28 PM

I guess you aren't following this build much to think the motor is behind the axle :laugh2:

 
So far I've only seen the motorbox, with no main rails laid out. What I've seen could be placed anywhere in a chassis, even front wheel drive.

Not to bore you, but a few years ago, a slot drag racer from CA or HI built all of his vehicles to be front wheel drive. They all had big slicks on the front axle. None of those cars would do a wheelstand.

Bill Fernald
 

My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#64 Pablo

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Posted 23 January 2017 - 08:19 PM

You can't tell from posts #52 and #55 the motor is ahead of the axle?
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#65 Bill from NH

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Posted 23 January 2017 - 10:29 PM

Nothing is finalized until it's all the pieces are in place and soldered solid. The final product is often changed from preliminary jig photos and drawings.

Steve Okeefe might be the exception.

Bill Fernald
 

My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#66 Pablo

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Posted 24 January 2017 - 11:52 AM

I will certainly test rotating flag vs locked. If it does work better locked, at least I know it will be flat and true, not skewed. :)
 
Bill, I'm surprised you haven't read my mind yet about making the energy push the flag down the strip yet have the car wheelie.  :crazy:

It may work, or it may be another classic Pablo failed experiment. :D  I ain't skeered... :sun_bespectacled:


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#67 bluecars

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Posted 24 January 2017 - 12:16 PM

My buddy Pablo ain't skeered of nothing except Cracker Barrel being closed after a race. LOL!!! :D


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#68 Samiam

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Posted 24 January 2017 - 01:16 PM

I'm seeing a motor/drivetrain and guide tongue assembly staying down with the body/front wheels raising up in a beautiful wheelie. 


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#69 Bud Greene

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Posted 24 January 2017 - 01:29 PM

I will certainly test rotating flag vs. locked. It it does work better locked at least I know it will be flat and true, not skewed :)
 
Bill, I'm surprised you haven't read my mind yet about making the energy push the flag down the strip yet have the car wheelie  :crazy:
It may work, or it may be another classic Pablo failed experiment :D  I ain't skeered :sun_bespectacled:


Lookin' forward to seeing that one.
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#70 Pablo

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Posted 25 January 2017 - 06:37 PM

.063" wire rails, rear strengthener .025" strip, front chunk .032" under a .032" Slick 7 steel tongue.
 
IMG_4762.JPG
 
IMG_4765.JPG
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#71 Pablo

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Posted 25 January 2017 - 08:45 PM

Found a set of Hooptie front wheels to match the rears. :o :D

Used my giant donut mounting cone to glue on Wonder rubber and trimmed them to .900" OD.
 
IMG_4771.JPG
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#72 Pablo

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 03:02 PM

Iso hinge and cross connector, twin .063" outer rails, pin tube body mounts, front axle tube.
 
IMG_4839.JPG
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#73 Pablo

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 06:32 PM

Drag racing rules don't seem to be real picky, as far as I can tell.
Matter of fact, the only rules I've been able to find are SDRA.
 
Regarding wheelie bars and wheels, the only restriction is less than 5" from center of rear axle to center of wheelie bar axle.
Why can't I snap O-rings onto 3/32" ball bearings and use a brass tube axle with retainers ?
 
IMG_4849.JPG
 
At this point I need to paint the body before proceeding. Yes, I know it sounds weird. :shok:

I scrubbed the partially finished chassis and now turn my attention to the airbrush... :paint2:
 
IMG_4854.JPG


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#74 Don Weaver

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 06:44 PM

Clever idea for the wheelies!


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#75 bluecars

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 08:42 PM

You're going to need a lot of weight on the tongue section I think.


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#76 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 29 January 2017 - 08:56 PM

That big motor is weight on the tongue and he does not have any place to put more weight except a big empty hole?


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#77 bluecars

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Posted 30 January 2017 - 07:34 AM

OK, then.


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#78 Bill from NH

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Posted 30 January 2017 - 08:40 AM

If more tongue weight was ever needed, one could easily put a thin brass shelf in the hole for holding the weight.


Bill Fernald
 

My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#79 Pablo

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Posted 30 January 2017 - 10:42 AM

Notice my words "partially finished" in post #73.  :)  Of course it needs lots of tongue weight!

 

I have two Champion 1/4 oz. weights already prepped. But I plan to do that later.

 

Also, note the Classic flag holder (3 grams) in post #58. That's a thin one - I have thicker ones also.


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#80 Pablo

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Posted 30 January 2017 - 05:44 PM

Whaddaya know, the Patto's waterslide Eagle decals worked fine on the Riggen Magoo slicks.

I applied two coats of Mop & Glo to ensure they stay put. :D
 
IMG_4859.JPG
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#81 Pablo

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Posted 31 January 2017 - 11:43 AM

Paint job is done. Now that she's trimmed, I can plan my wheelie bar(s) 'n whatnot

 

IMG_4882.JPG

 

All decals inside, of course.

 

IMG_4872.JPG

 

Time to heat up the Ungar again.  :dance3:


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#82 Pablo

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Posted 31 January 2017 - 05:38 PM

Once I pinned the body, it became obvious the front wheels popping a giant wheelie with the center section in the slot won't work.

The limiting factor being, rear wheels not having enough vertical clearance with the body.

 

The good news is, the car is coming along nicely and all it needs is an Iso stop, a wheelie bar, and some weight up front.

The only wheelie this car will be popping is about 1/8" up front, max :)


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#83 Pablo

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Posted 01 February 2017 - 02:54 PM

Chassis is done. No tumble, no polish; just a quickie cleanup - tap water, toothbrush, liquid soap, and Comet

 

IMG_4886.JPG

 

IMG_4888.JPG

 

Wheelie BB's are about 2 3/4" behind rear axle

 

IMG_4903.JPG

 

Now, where did I put those doggone little O-rings ?? :laugh2:

 

 


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#84 CoastalAngler1

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Posted 01 February 2017 - 03:01 PM

Keep wheelie wheels adjustable.  Braid recess changes might mean you raise or lower the wheelie wheels. My drag cars are happy with the wheelie wheels about .010 off the track when staged.  


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#85 SlotStox#53

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Posted 01 February 2017 - 03:11 PM

The wheelie bar wheel idea is pure genius Pablo! :D *Noted for future reference*

 

Car is coming along great !



#86 Pablo

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Posted 01 February 2017 - 05:12 PM

Charlie, the .047" wheelie bars can surely be tweaked to adjust as needed, and/or different size Orings.

 

Thanks Paul :)  ("genius" may be a reach :laugh2:

A couple microdots of CA secured them just fine

 

IMG_4885.JPG

 

I opted for the bigger size Classic brass flag weight to secure the Jet Flag.

The Champion 1/4 oz. lead weight is secured via homemade bulletproofing.

I have a second one ready if needed. It can go on top of this one, or it can go on top of the rails further aft.

 

IMG_4890.JPG

 

IMG_4896.JPG


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#87 Pablo

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Posted 01 February 2017 - 06:29 PM

The Monster Havlicek 36D motor is in place :aggressive: :big_boss:

Lower EB screw hole was already tapped for the 2-56 screw so it was an easy fit

 

EB screw.JPG

 

I planned for the gears to mesh nice once the motor nested, but knew final fine tuning would be via the can solder joint.

It worked perfectly - tacked in, adjusted, then soldered home. Motor sits nice at ground zero and mesh between pinion and idler is sweet.

 

Can joint.JPG

 

IMG_4907.JPG


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#88 Pablo

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Posted 02 February 2017 - 07:56 PM

Assembly is done, with the exception of some minor tweaks.

Rear rubber may need to be narrowed a little more before final body mounting.

She passes the drivetrain test no problemo

 

IMG_4909.JPG

 

IMG_4910.JPG

 

IMG_4912.JPG

 


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#89 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 02 February 2017 - 08:15 PM

Now that is an oil hole in the rear axle tube. She looks good Pablo


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#90 Pablo

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Posted 03 February 2017 - 01:57 PM

Thanks, Eddie. :)  That's no oil hole, it's weight removal (not that it matters with a 454 GM V8 :laugh2: ).

Also an entry/exit point for ceramic tumbling media pellets. :dance3: Next time remind me to tumble before adding wheelie bars :dash2:
 
Couple of small changes before body mounting:

- Rear wheels needed to be narrowed to .420" widths and 1.033" OD, making rear width 2 3/4".
- Front width also reduced to 2 3/4" just to match the rear.
- Spur gear mesh in the drivetrain test was OK, but not great, so I dug deep and pulled out a new 43t Cox. Much improved.
 
IMG_4914.JPG
 
Found me a good test monkey. If it sucks, this guy won't sugarcoat it. :bb: First test, Talladega 2/18/17
 
photo-5411.jpg


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#91 Pablo

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Posted 03 February 2017 - 04:44 PM

Gangster Caddy is done. Weight is currently 147 grams.
 
IMG_4936.JPG
 
IMG_4943.JPG
 
IMG_4923.JPG
 
IMG_4916.JPG
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#92 bluecars

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Posted 03 February 2017 - 05:08 PM

Too cool!!!

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#93 Samiam

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Posted 03 February 2017 - 05:44 PM

That is one Bad Azz Caddy.
 
Any chance of getting a video of a pass? Would love to see a slo-mo of the launch.
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#94 Dominator

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Posted 03 February 2017 - 06:52 PM

Another great-looking build!

A motor is only as fast as the chassis it's in.
 
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#95 bluecars

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Posted 04 February 2017 - 08:21 PM

Going to try Sam but my computer knowledge is very limited.


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#96 Pablo

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Posted 04 February 2017 - 08:33 PM

Nobody knows how to do, or has time for, everything.

Getting it done is called d e l e g a t i o n.
 
Me, I'll be glad if it reaches the end of the strip without deslotting or self-destructing. :dance3:
  • hiline2 and boxerdog like this
Paul Wolcott

#97 Bud Greene

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Posted 04 February 2017 - 09:26 PM

Awesome job. I like that.

#98 Pablo

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Posted 05 February 2017 - 09:48 AM

Thanks, Bud. The Transparent Red acrylic I used on the pinstripes, tail lights, and license plate does freaky things with the light when moved.
Paul Wolcott

#99 olescratch

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Posted 05 February 2017 - 02:20 PM

Nice build!  Technique seems to be the key.  Decals inside, how?  This would definitely help to make them last longer.  The wheelie bars are a great idea, gonna have to use that on something!  Do the fronts have a whitewall?


John Stewart

#100 Pablo

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Posted 05 February 2017 - 02:40 PM

Thanks, John.  No, those are not whitewalls, when I trimmed/trued the rubber I accidentally sanded off some finish from the rims.

Glad you like the effect, though :)

 

Here is my inside decal method:

 

http://slotblog.net/...e-clear-bodies/


Paul Wolcott





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