140 replies to this topic

[bluecars]

Bill,

Timkens are more a side load bearing. Check out Torrington.

[Pablo]

Red, did you really think I wouldn't know an idler would change direction of rotation ?

Do I have "newbie" pasted on my forehead ? Maybe I do.....

 

I could have weenied out and made it an anglewinder. Probably would be done by now. But I like this type of challenge.

After lots of thinking and mock ups on the Rick's Jig, I like the Magoo slicks on the threaded rims with the set screw 42 T 48P brass spur.

 

At this point, the new improved idler gizmo is only half way constructed and awaits some other things to "fall into place" before being finalized

 

 

Mid point on the can notches is the left/right balance point on both the real and jig motors. I didn't plan that; just got lucky.

Axle tubing is sized and centered in the jig. I got lucky and had two 42 T spurs, .917" OD, so I put one on each end to adjust the axle height screws

 

 

Now I have a pretty good idea on how and where the main rails/motor box/idler gear gizmo/spur/wheels/etc. etc. will sit

[bluecars]

That's why I said I was sure you already knew it. Only one more thing to say. I think your going to find out that with that hot motor and all the traction, your going to want a larger idler. But I'm sure you have it all under control. Good luck.

[Pablo]

Thanks.

I actually have increased the idler size, from .250" OD to .375", but I did it to enable moving it down lower and to clear the gimbal better.

Any larger than that and it would start creating more space problems than I already have.

[Pablo]

With everything laying flat, I secured motor to axle tube temporarily with a bent piece of scrap brass.

Just so stuff won't flop around while I thrash a motor box together

 

 

Now I can get the axle height adjusters out of the way and mock up the threaded axle, wheels, and spur gear.

With a piece of .063" under the jig motor, now I have a real time view of exactly what is going to fit where

 

 

[Pablo]

The motor box may be overbuilt, but my theories are:

-big heavy powerful vintage motor needs a strong box

-a little more weight (even some up high) to make it happen is acceptable

-it's a Cadillac

 

The motor fits like a glove, and will be screwed in left side with a brass 2-56 screw (lower only) and soldered in on right side.

Perfectly weight centered left/right

 

 

[Pablo]

Idler gear box, take 2. This time I took a smart pill and used two old tricks for delicate maneuvers like this:

-used my 25W N454 Hakko, a small iron for delicate work, in addition to the Ungar

-silver solder in some places and 60/40 in others to avoid melting joints when I didn't want them to

 

VXB BB's silver soldered to the tabs, 16T gear and 3/32" shaft polished. A piece of .078" wire added to the motor box rails is the starting point

 

 

.039" wire wraparound braces connect to and secure the outboard tab. Right rear wheel barely clears the gizmo, just like I thought it would

 

 

Magoo tires trimmed and trued to 1.044" OD and .485" width

 

 

 

 

 

[Pablo]

Jet flag, Classic weight, and (shortened) Slick 7 steel tongue given the usual treatment - everything sanded flat and all four rotating surfaces faced.

Don't know how much it helps on a drag car but it can't hurt.
 

[Bill from NH]

Drag guides don't need to rotate.

Are you putting the 36D behind the rear axle to build a wheelstander?

[Pablo]

Like I said, I don't think free rotation of the flag will hurt. If the traction is uneven and the car pulls one way or the other, I'd like my flag to stay parallel to the slot instead of digging in.
 
I guess you aren't following this build much to think the motor is behind the axle.

But what would you say if I told you I can put all the horsepower into forward motion yet still have the car pop a wheelie?

I can't guarantee it, but I'm working in that direction...

[Cap Henry]

Normally on drag cars you tighten the guide nut down tight so the car doesn't wander.

[CoastalAngler1]

Tighten that guide nut, and get a glue board. 

[Bill from NH]

I guess you aren't following this build much to think the motor is behind the axle

 
So far I've only seen the motorbox, with no main rails laid out. What I've seen could be placed anywhere in a chassis, even front wheel drive.

Not to bore you, but a few years ago, a slot drag racer from CA or HI built all of his vehicles to be front wheel drive. They all had big slicks on the front axle. None of those cars would do a wheelstand.

[Pablo]

You can't tell from posts #52 and #55 the motor is ahead of the axle?

[Bill from NH]

Nothing is finalized until it's all the pieces are in place and soldered solid. The final product is often changed from preliminary jig photos and drawings.

Steve Okeefe might be the exception.

[Pablo]

I will certainly test rotating flag vs locked. If it does work better locked, at least I know it will be flat and true, not skewed.
 
Bill, I'm surprised you haven't read my mind yet about making the energy push the flag down the strip yet have the car wheelie. 

It may work, or it may be another classic Pablo failed experiment.   I ain't skeered...

[bluecars]

My buddy Pablo ain't skeered of nothing except Cracker Barrel being closed after a race. LOL!!!

[Samiam]

I'm seeing a motor/drivetrain and guide tongue assembly staying down with the body/front wheels raising up in a beautiful wheelie. 

[Bud Greene]

I will certainly test rotating flag vs. locked. It it does work better locked at least I know it will be flat and true, not skewed
 
Bill, I'm surprised you haven't read my mind yet about making the energy push the flag down the strip yet have the car wheelie 
It may work, or it may be another classic Pablo failed experiment   I ain't skeered

Lookin' forward to seeing that one.

[Pablo]

.063" wire rails, rear strengthener .025" strip, front chunk .032" under a .032" Slick 7 steel tongue.
 

 

[Pablo]

Found a set of Hooptie front wheels to match the rears.

Used my giant donut mounting cone to glue on Wonder rubber and trimmed them to .900" OD.
 

[Pablo]

Iso hinge and cross connector, twin .063" outer rails, pin tube body mounts, front axle tube.
 

[Pablo]

Drag racing rules don't seem to be real picky, as far as I can tell.
Matter of fact, the only rules I've been able to find are SDRA.
 
Regarding wheelie bars and wheels, the only restriction is less than 5" from center of rear axle to center of wheelie bar axle.
Why can't I snap O-rings onto 3/32" ball bearings and use a brass tube axle with retainers ?
 

 
At this point I need to paint the body before proceeding. Yes, I know it sounds weird.

I scrubbed the partially finished chassis and now turn my attention to the airbrush...
 

[Don Weaver]

Clever idea for the wheelies!

[bluecars]

You're going to need a lot of weight on the tongue section I think.