246 replies to this topic

[MarkH]

The single unit has been claimed.

However, the other 2 have a couple more days to be claimed by the original guys before I offer them up.

[MarkH]

I have the last unit available

 

If interested Please PM me.

[Dave Buchholz]

I would suspect most of you fiddle with just about everything you buy for slot racing. I'm no different I've customized my body mounting unit by adding a few changes.

 

In the past,others have mentioned adding a hold down feature to it.

 

I added five magnets (from Home Depot) countersunk flush with the surface, then JB Welded from the inside. Obviously, it doesn't work with brass chassis Retros, but I usually run  flexi's or Group F wings which are steel, and therefore magnetic. For the most part, it eliminates the need to use tape, as the magnets suck the steel down tightly enough. No need for a clamp anymore, unless you run brass.. 

 

I also  added a "Stop Tab" by epoxying a 90* bent piece of a thin steel ruler  at the back end of the unit. I simply can now push the Chassis against the stop and get consistent positioning.

 

 I drilled another set of holes in the swinging brackets. It gave more option of range to where the brackets need to be slid for other chassis' I may use. It was much easier than trying to make longer slots in the side of the unit.  Any drill press makes it an easy task, even a Dremel press works.

 

I added a slotted aluminum plate under the guide area. to center the guide flag, ( idea stolen from post #196)  and again JB Welded it from  below. Its a tight fight for the flag, and added consistency to where the chassis is positioned and lined up.

 

Added together. It all speeds the process, and gives better accuracy than a stock unit. This is by no means a complaint about the original stock form, just a way  of making things easier and quicker for my own needs.

 

Dave Buchholz

[Bill from NH]

Dave, to hold a brass chassis, place a second loose magnet on top of the chassis at the location for each fixed magnet, thus creating a magnetic sandwich with the chassis in between. Were the HD magnets "rare earth"?

[Matt Sheldon]

I just use a piece of tape, never an issue.

[Dave Buchholz]

. Were the HD magnets "rare earth"?

Yes, about 5/16 round.

 

 Matt Sheldon, if tape is working for you, great.  As i mentioned, my fiddling with the process, is not derogatory towards the product , or the originators suggestions for it's use.

[Alan Dodson]

Mark, do you still have one unit available?

[Johnny]

 

I added five magnets (from Home Depot) countersunk flush with the surface, then JB Welded from the inside. Obviously, it doesn't work with brass chassis Retros, but I usually run  flexi's or Group F wings which are steel, and therefore magnetic. For the most part, it eliminates the need to use tape, as the magnets suck the steel down tightly enough. No need for a clamp anymore, unless you run brass.. 

 

 

Dave Buchholz

 

Dave,

Is any "Magnet Installation" pictures available? I would love to see a few.

Thanx!

[MarkH]

Alan, I do not have any available at this time.

Later this summer I will machine another run of these and post for those who are interested.

 

Just an FYI, see post #175 for a video showing design intent.

[Dave Buchholz]

The Magnet's I used were a pack of 1/4" round Neodymium. I observed where the center piece of the chassis had the front tips and a spot just before the motor. Where there would be plenty of metal to grab onto. Similarly,two more spots at the rear of the side pans.

After marking, I drilled matching 1/4" holes at those five spots. The Magnet's fit snugly with little touch up needed. Next I mixed a little batch of Black JBWeld up, and slathered things up from the inside of the black.

Main issue was making sure the magnets did not project up above the working surface. And remained flush with it.

Easy project to do. Whether an individual finds it a worthwhile expense of time and effort is there own decision.

[philk]

Recently modded mine for rear wheel clearance when using short wing car chassis’s. Also riddled it with 6/32 taped holes. This is one of the best things I’ve ever bought.

[Steve T]

I added five magnets (from Home Depot) countersunk flush with the surface, then JB Welded from the inside. Obviously, it doesn't work with brass chassis Retros, but I usually run  flexi's or Group F wings which are steel, and therefore magnetic. For the most part, it eliminates the need to use tape, as the magnets suck the steel down tightly enough. No need for a clamp anymore, unless you run brass.. 

 

 

Dave Buchholz

 

Also would love to see photos of this modification.

 

Thank you if possible.

 

Steve Thornton

[MarkH]

My apologies to those waiting for new body fixtures.

I fell way behind building a new road racing kart for an engineering study.

I should be finished with that in a couple of weeks and get these body fixtures completed.

[MarkH]

I have 3 of these available for those who are interested.

 

These are $130 each, includes USPS Priority shipping

Unfortunately the price of materials went up again but I kept the increase as low as possible.

 

Please PM me if interested.

[penske]

PM sent

[Shorthose]

PM SENT

[MarkH]

These are spoken for.

 

If you want one Duffy's Slotcar Raceway can help. Mid-America might have some left as well.

[penske]

Mark your body pro 2 arrived yesterday. Excellent job. Cant wait  to use it.   

 

I was wondering would I be able to get a set of the short pins.  It came with the long ones.

 

Thanks 

Roger Ruggieri

[MarkH]

I have a couple of these ready to ship.

Please send me a private message if you are interested.

 

Please see post 175 for a demonstration video.

 

Thanks, have a great day.

[MarkH]

I have sold from this small batch but still have a few of the Body Pinning fixtures ready to ship.

Please PM me if interested.

 

Have a great day

[MarkH]

I have 5 of these left.

Mount your body correctly in the first try with just 4 holes.

Please PM me if interested.

Attached Images

• 

[MarkH]

These are sold.

 

Thanks