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Scratchbuilt chassis gallery


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#51 Craig

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Posted 03 November 2008 - 12:08 PM

And finally, another version of a Warmack car.

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#52 One_Track_Mind

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Posted 09 November 2008 - 04:56 PM

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Don't have a reason or theory based on how or why this one is built the way it is?

Just hope that it works! :laugh2:

All pieces are fabricated by hand, and using what I believe Munter called an "Eyechrometer". :shok:

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Brian McPherson

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#53 Jeff R

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Posted 09 November 2008 - 05:48 PM

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I'm kinda like Brian and just went for not knowing what is was going to be. Just wanted to build an all-brass chassis.

First chassis build since the early '80s. Now all I need is a tumbler and a little tweeking.
Jeff Russell

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#54 vdel11

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Posted 13 November 2008 - 09:39 AM

I just finished this chassis following Mike Swiss's instructions. I used .078" instead of .063", weight is 69 grams. I used a 6" metal ruler to hold down both the side stops and the down stops at the same time.




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#55 Marty Stanley

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Posted 13 November 2008 - 12:32 PM

Well I decided to build a Retro Stock Car chassis hoping that we will be racing them in January in Marietta. If not, well then I already have a Retro Stock Car for when we start racing them at SERRA races.

I decided to come up with a design that has lots of movement - kind of like watching Charo walk across the stage in a fringed skirt . . . . everything kinda moves in so many different directions, all together at the same time.

This eveing I will give it a run at one of my local tracks.


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#56 Rick

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Posted 13 November 2008 - 04:36 PM

F1 Beta 1.1 build...43 grams as shown, 4" X 1"------------- 1.2 coming soon........
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#57 Rick

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Posted 25 November 2008 - 12:10 PM

I like to have something in front of me to begin from. I threw this together to try some ideas out uisng just std parts I had laying around. Now that this is done, it will be possible to measure and make another model with better fitting parts. 3/4" motor bracket installed almost straight up. The rest you can see in the picture. 105 grams as pictured.

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#58 Rick

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Posted 27 November 2008 - 07:40 PM

NASCAR Kit Build:

4 1/2" wheelsbase, 5 3/16" guide lead. All parts from the kit. .032 center plate, .032 pans, hypoid motor box. shortened guide tongue. Built very strong for rubbin. heavy hinge wires, 3 pin tubes per side, just in case. First time I used the tumbler after a build, 4 hours. Not as shiney as what I have seen but did a nice job on the solder joints and just a bit of scotchbright on the bottom, is what you see. 73 grams, should come in at under 125 and be a very nuetral chassis. Traditional floppy pan.
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#59 team burrito

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Posted 28 November 2008 - 12:31 PM

My new Retro-Pro ride, the powerful Golf Porsche 917:
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The body is from Red Fox, the chassis built by me & the motor is a Pro/Slot Big Dog. The car in its debut run was running very fast, but I popped a motor spring & lost power. Then I notice the motor brushes were almost gone & had to replace those before rejoining the race. With a little more tuning, I should get in the sub-5 second mark. Weird that the brushes worn out so fast, I'll have to figure that out later. Sorry about the crummy chassis pictures.
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#60 Bill from NH

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Posted 28 November 2008 - 04:40 PM

Russ, the Proslot SpeedFX 16D motors have lousy brushes too. Around here it's common practice to change them out to Big Foots or Gold Dust before running the motors. :)

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#61 team burrito

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Posted 28 November 2008 - 06:43 PM

Russ, the Pro Slot SpeedFX 16D motors have lousy brushes too. Around here it's common practice to change them out to Big Foots or Gold Dust before running the motors. :)

Yeah but I was using the stock brushes, which are harder than Bigfoots or Golddust brushes. For some weird reason, the stock brushes work better. Go figure. :blush:
Russ Toy (not Troy)
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#62 Noose

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Posted 01 December 2008 - 08:19 AM

The "Plopper"...

Plumber set up with floppy/shaker body mounts..thus the "Plopper". Used a Warmack kit, Warmack shaker pin tube set-up that I saw on his car from the last race, and a JK Hypoid bracket. Weighs in at 65 grams which should yield a 115 gram car. 4 inch WB with a 1 inch guide lead.

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Joe "Noose" Neumeister
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#63 Michael Rigsby

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Posted 01 December 2008 - 11:25 AM

Yeah but I was using the stock brushes, which are harder than Bigfoots or Golddust brushes. For some weird reason, the stock brushes work better. Go figure. :blush:


Russ,

Since I've got back into slots at the first of the year and got involved in motor building (both American and Chinese) , I found the stock ProSlot brushes to be really super soft compared to Gold Dust or SBFII's. Going from soft to hard, it would be Pro Slot Stock then Gold Dust then SBF II's being the hardest. Stock PS brushes will be half gone after a 40 second water break in. Gold Dust Pro's will barely be 20% gone. I use mainly the Gold Dust with a heavy brush tension and get great wear out of them, usually a minimum of four races.

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#64 Craig

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Posted 06 December 2008 - 03:06 AM

I thought I'd throw this build on here just so it's documented. D3 F1 West Coast rules. The car is 4-7/8" CL of flag to CL of rear axle, 7/8" guide lead with a wheel base of 4". RGeo 3/4" motor bracket and all .062 hand cut brass throughout.

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Craig Correia

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#65 Rick

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Posted 06 December 2008 - 08:00 PM

The Rattler - 60 gram, full pan.

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#66 Josh Crutchfield

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Posted 07 December 2008 - 11:40 PM

JK Can-Am based chassis. It has a 3.90" wheelbase with a 4.90" GL and uses .078" mainrails. The pans are suspended from the guide tongue in the front and .055" wire in the back. Removing the rear retainers allows the center section to be removed.

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#67 slotcarone

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Posted 08 December 2008 - 01:16 AM

:D Pretty cool idea Josh and a beautiful build!!!! Make sure you let us know how it handles after you get it on the track please.

Mike Katz

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#68 stoo23

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Posted 08 December 2008 - 02:37 AM

Well,.. I thought I would try something a bit different, than what I Have been running, perhaps even a bit 'Conventional', especially in it's 'Look',..lol

This was a chassis that started out to be something else, became that, partly and then got changed again to end like this,..lol
I changed my mind about Five times and ended up Trying a system that we Probably all Tried many years ago and also I noticed on one or two of Mr Steube's chassis.

When I had made my mind up Finally, I found I had an old set of Parma .032 'Bat Pans' that 'Fitted' Fine !
It uses an R-Geo motor bracket and Rails of .063 and .055, with the 'Sprung' Plumber using 2 x .055
Nose piece is .062 and an old Steel Guyide tongue I had a few of,..Slack I Know,..I should have Made my Own !!,..:):)
WB is 4 1/8th with a 5" GL.

Have Yet to weigh it, but it Must be atleast 120 grams.

I must admit, after giving it a 'run' the Day after our recent State Titles, I feel if I had bothered to have gotten it ready for the race, I Might have used it as I think it would have handled the conditions on the day better than Old Faithful !!,..DOH !!

So far it's Handling on Our Johnson 110' is extremely Promising.

:)

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#69 Mark Fox

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Posted 10 December 2008 - 10:02 PM

Hi All

After a 22 years sabbatical I am really excited to be designing, building and racing slot cars again.

Need less to say that i would not have the slightest interest if it were not for the Retro class of racing with sealed motors that has been introduced.

Interstingly enough I had never actually built an inline chassis previousley so the cars I am showing here represent the first two I have built - both went very well and I hope that other builders may get some ideas from these as I know that we all look at what other builders are doing and sometimes an idea can emerge from other builders efforts or a new way of modifying our existing designs can crystalise.

With both of these cars I wanted to utilise availiable brass and wire stock and the only prebuilt parts were the U brackets and the guide tongues.

Chassis #1 was designated 'Skinny Boy'

Motor Bracket (Rehco) is re-bent to get the bearings out wide and the motor back to the axle.
Rails are all .055" and all brass sheet is .063".
Front wheels (made from old rear wheels)are independant.
The pans rattle on the wire outriggers.
Front wheels are supported by .063 by .025 brass L brackets for simplicity, strength and weight.
Total weight is 97 grams (rolling chassis 90 grams plus body 7 grams).

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This car was built prior to the first ever 'Aussie Retro' race held at Hornsby Slotcar Centre (HSC) here in Sydney Australia and in the lead up to the race held the fastest time after I had added lead as it was way too light.

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Best time for this at HSC was 5.18.

I had added 13 grams of lead - ran out of room to stack much more on and so proceeded to build: -

Chassis #2 was designated 'Fat Boy'

On to Chassis #2 (Fat Boy) which I built on the back of my findings with Skinny Boy.

The difference between the two is I went from 17# wire to 16# wire in the rail construction and used larger sections of 16# brass strips for the front and pans. I used a conventional U bracket (JK Hypoid) this time as the space between the rear of the motor and the crown gear was limited after I bent the bracket for Skinny Boy.

Weight was 116 gms.
Wheel base is 4 inches
Length is 4 13/16 inches

Fat Boy worked well straight up and so I got some practice in the Friday night Practice Race prior to the first Aussie Retro.

Come race night Fat Boy set TQ at 5.11 secs and narrowly finished 3rd a second or so ahead of 4th.

I was certain that I could get this car under 5.00 secs with most of the improvement to be gained from the driver.

Took Fat Boy to HSC on Wednesday following the Race and after some fiddling was able to do a whole heap of times between 5.01 and 5.06 but could not crack 5.00. Added 3 gms (total now 119 gms) of lead to front and then reeled of a 5.00 and the magic 4.99 - totally stoked - first car to break 5 seconds at HSC.

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Ultimately I disposed of the lead and added more brass to the front.

I would like to say that this exercise of designing, building and racing my Aussie Retro car has been the most fun I have had in years - the racing is close and the camaraderie among the racers is terrific. Its also been fun catching up with guys like Stoo Amos and Wayne Brambles who I used to race when we were at school in 1970.

Regards - Mark
Mark Fox

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#70 Phil Irvin

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Posted 11 December 2008 - 02:51 AM

:laugh2:

It's different and I like that. I have not thought of using a strip of brass to space the main wires that far apart and having hinges for the wing on the wire soldered on the front only like a tortion bar plumber affect ;) .

Mmmm, something to think about :rolleyes:

Ol'Phart
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#71 Bill from NH

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Posted 11 December 2008 - 06:23 AM

Mark, "Fat Boy" really got my interest when I first saw it in the race report. Some day I'll build a version. :)

Bill Fernald

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#72 Mark Fox

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Posted 12 December 2008 - 12:24 AM

Hi All,

Just like to share my latest design with you as it proved very effective at the recent (Saturday just past) NSW Aussie Retro Title race held at Hornsby Slotcar Centre (HSC).

This chassis really goes like stink as evidenced by TQ on the day of 4.773, the next best was by my old mate Stoo (Stewart Amos) - at 5.006.

Stoo and Slotbaker (Steve King) have posted some details on this race in the General Retro Racing (NSW Titles) forum if you are interested.

Firstly I will take you on a trip down memory lane (mine at least) to 1976 when as a slightly younger racer I developed a new chassis concept that was labelled the 'Ice Cream Cone' due to the triangulated or cone shaped rail construction. This concept travelled well and became known as the tripod in other lands. This chassis design also relied more on a rattling type of movement rather than hinges which were generally prevalent at this time. The other important feature at this time was that with the air dams being used on wing racers I did not see any need to have the front of the body flopping around on the pans so it was nailed to the front nose section.

I can't begin to describe how well this car and many follow-ups (built by myself and others) went compared to the other designs at the time.

The following pics are of the first 'Ice Cream Cone' as featured in an Aussie slotcar magazine called Mini Wheels which was produced by a guy called Dave Smith.

Back Page Plan - Mini Wheels - May 1977

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Close-up of Plan

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Pan Detail
The back page plan was a little lacking in detail so I have done a quick drawing to explain how it hung together. The plan is also a little inaccurate as the front end was actually composed of curves rather than straight lines as depicted.

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Later Models

These non-inline cars are some that I built in the 80's and were actually the last cars I built and raced before 'retiring' in 1986.

These cars as set up were subsequently campaigned by Stoo after I stopped racing and I must thank Stoo for looking after these as I had no idea they were still in existence until Stoo dragged them out of deep storage.

This car was used for Group 12 and Group 20 racing.

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This car was used for Group 20 and Group 27 racing.

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So drawing on the design criteria (being strong and simple) of the origional 'Ice Cream Cone' and memories of the dozens of variations built by myself and others combined with the lessons learned in building 'Skinny Boy' and 'Fat Boy' (see my previous post in this forum) my brain and soldering iron gave birth to: -

'Retro Ice Cream Cone #1'

Here are some construction details

Weight ready to race with body is 122 grms.
Length back axle to guide post is 4 13/16th's.
Wheel base is 3 7/8th's.
Front section is .063 brass.
Rails are .078 p'wire filed to .063 on top.
The bracing on top of the mail rails and the cross brace and motor front L attachment are .063 brass.
Front wheels are independent.
Front wheel support is .063 x .250 brass.
Pans are .025 with .015 L section on outside edge and 1/16 ID brass tube on inside.
The pans are totally independent - the cross-bar floats in the 1/8 ID square tube soldered to the pans - moving the position of these tubes determines the amount of movement at the rear of the pan - further forward means more uplift potential at the rear - I will probably put a series of thes tubes on the next build so as to easily tune this variable.
The pans hinge on 1/16 ID square tube at front and rattle in 3/32 ID square tube at rear - they have 1/32 fore and aft play - the pans are secured by a bent .063 pin which can be pushed out to facilltate changing pans for different conditions.
The bracket is re-bent JK.
Guide tongue is commercial steel - dont know what brand.

I think that covers it - so now the pics - sorry I'm not a great photographer but will work on it :rolleyes:

Bottom Shot with Body as raced

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Top Shot with Body (True Scale TI 22) - I found that the Dave Bloom Champion Ferrari worked well also but the TI 22 was a little more stable on the gutter lanes.

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Chassis Shots

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Shots showing how the pans are detached - the bend in the .063 pan pins holds them solid - they are detached by using special tool XYZ which does double duty as my clearance measure.

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Hope you have enjoyed the above and hopefully can take something away to ponder. :unsure:

Regards,
Mark Fox

'Resurrected Retro Racer'

#73 Rick

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Posted 12 December 2008 - 10:24 PM

Torsion Pan Chassis:

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#74 Rick

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Posted 14 December 2008 - 03:24 PM

BP Flat Track Special:

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#75 JerseyJohn

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Posted 14 December 2008 - 05:00 PM

Very nice work, R-Geo!!!

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#76 MSwiss

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Posted 21 December 2008 - 07:42 PM

With the success of tonyp's JK F1 bracketed Can-Am car in it's first race, I decided to build one, also.

After my first attempt came out too goofy, I rebuilt it, just grafting on a spare standard JK nosepiece I had laying around. The finished chassis came out quite a bit more "normal" looking.

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With the narrow 3/4" wide bracket, I made a little more effort bracing the outer part of the axle tube.

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Mike Swiss
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Five-time USRA National Champion (two G7, one G27, two G7 Senior)
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#77 The Bugman

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Posted 21 December 2008 - 08:10 PM

Very cool build (I'm taking notes). I wonder how it would be on the King track...
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#78 Craig

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Posted 29 December 2008 - 08:31 PM

Hi again folks,

I've been busy the last couple weeks and here are a couple new sleds I've built.

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One more being worked on currently, will post upon completion.
Craig Correia

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#79 Joe Mig

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Posted 04 January 2009 - 11:19 AM

Lets give this a try!

Just built by me. :D

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Joseph Migliaccio. Karma it's a wonderful thing.

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#80 Don Weaver

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Posted 04 January 2009 - 05:05 PM

SERRA Stockcar racing starts in February at 'Slots of Fun' in Abbeville, SC. I built these chassis for my three racing friends from Lexington, SC, and had hoped to have them ready for Christmas but that didn't work out. They are all the same except for the body mounts... Dan likes pin tubes and Jim and Richard prefer body clips.

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Double .062" main rails on the inside and outside of the motor bracket running to the front clip (.062" plate). Bulletproofed the S-7 guide since I had to cut so deep for guide clearance because of the 3/4" GL rule. The prototype I built like these had some chatter coming out of slow turns and on starting up so I added gussets on each side of the motor box and this seemed to eliminate the problem. The pans are hingeless and the movement is controlled by up/down and back and forth stops.

Some close-ups:

Don_Weaver__s_4.5_Chassis__1_.jpg

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The bare chassis weighs 79 grams and should come in at around 130/135 grams RTR. The prototype ran about .5 seconds slower than the faster Can-Ams on 'Slots of Fun's' 135 Grandstand so hopefully they will be competitive when SERRA comes to town.

Don Weaver

Don Weaver
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#81 Josh Crutchfield

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 10:27 PM

JK Spec chassis built for Tom Thumb's original King. The car weighs 113 grams and has a wheelbase of 4". The front clearance is set at .030"...
Here is a link to the BUILD.

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#82 Justin A. Porter

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Posted 27 January 2009 - 07:35 PM

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There's still some work to do to get it to 100%, but here's what I have so far of the retro chassis I intend to bring to the R4.

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This picture was taken to show one of the style of my Dad's chassis I've broken down and raided for components. He insisted that I save this one from all of the others in the bottom of the box.

Operator - Haven Raceway in Elyria

Tech Director - Ohio Challenge Cup


#83 slotcarone

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Posted 27 January 2009 - 08:14 PM

:D Pretty interesting!!!

Can I offer some advice??? In order for the solder joints to have any strength you have to clean and scuff all the pieces of brass and steel wire before you try to solder them together!!! These cars take a beating and even the best solder joints often break.

Mike Katz

Scratchbuilts forever!!


#84 Dominator

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Posted 01 February 2009 - 01:09 PM

Here's another new chassis design for me based on my F1 design.

Brass is all .032" thick with the pan and nose design similar to my torsion chassis in post 33. Guide tongue is a trimmed down Slick 7. Main rails are .063" with a small piece of .063" brass at the top of the rails to help support the guide tongue. The nose is hung using two pieces of .032" wire over the guide tongue. The pans are hinges in the front using 1/16" tubing with .032" wire inside. The rear of the chassis is connected to the pans with a tube on the center section which has a piece of .055" wire passing through it which is then attached to the pans. The center section slides side to side a little for some give. Forgot to mention the guide lead is 7/8" and the wheel base is 3.950". Body mounts are shakers.

Sorry for the poor clarity. My wife broke the good camera so I had to resort to a camera phone. :angry:

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A motor is only as fast as the chassis it's in.

 

Dominic Luongo

 

NERR photos from 2012-April 2016

 

NERR photos from 2016 to now


#85 Bob Campbell

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Posted 01 February 2009 - 03:10 PM

Hey Dom,

I like it! The guide area looks along the same lines as the car I built in Feb. 2008 and have been running since then. My chassis uses a stop hanging down from the front axle to hang the nose. This works the same way that the .032" wire over the guide tongue works on your chassis.

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I have found this to be a easy to drive car. I have another design that might be slightly faster but I turn more laps with this car due to less offs! I'm in the process of building Gen. II as we speak. I will post pictures when finished.
Bob Campbell
BC RallySport
Colorado Springs, CO

#86 Rick

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Posted 03 February 2009 - 08:00 PM

Testing a new nosepiece this weekend. A few possibilities/options with this one.

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Rick Bennardo
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#87 MSwiss

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Posted 05 February 2009 - 01:54 PM

Here's an IRRA stocker chassis I built for a customer. I had to do some chopping and channeling to get it to legal specs.

4.5" wheelbase , .750" guide lead, 2.993" width.

When I get a chance, I'll add some pics to my JK Spec chassis article on where to cut it and how to brace it.

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Formed (coined) steel guide brace.
Cut lines in the chassis are capped with two pieces of .062" piano and a piece of .064 x 1/4" brass.

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JK hypoid bracket. Torsion bar wire stops were soldered on, overhanging the stock pans a bit. I then ground that overhang flat, even with the ends of the pans, and butt-soldered some .064 x 1/4" strip on to lengthen the pans and add weight to the back tires.

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Mike Swiss
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#88 Jeff Easterly

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Posted 06 February 2009 - 12:31 AM

Hmmmm... :unsure:

D3 Scratchbuilt chassis gallery??!! :shok:

Well, I guess I'll post some pics, too, fellas !! LOL !! :laugh2:

jeff1a.jpg

jeff2a.jpg

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Many thanks to Bryan Warmack, for one of his super-sano anglewinder motor brackets... :good:

My buddy Mr. Bell up in Stockton had requested that I build some RetroNASCARs to run in Division III at BP that could use full-width .820" rear tires from JK... Bryan's sano motor bracket allowed me to keep the rear end narrow enough to let that happen...

.062" x 1" x 1.2" long nose piece, with two .047" piano wire "spacer" rails, soldered on each long side... .078" main "U"-rail ... 4.5" wheelbase, with a .700" guide lead, to fit the ED Mercury Cyclone body... I used .055" piano wire inside of 3/32" brass tubing for the pan hinges... Pans are .890" wide, cut from 1" x .032" K&S material... Made me remember Mr. John Kallas, who used to race with us in D3, but hasn't been around lately... John's excellent chassis used this style of hinge... Easy to fabricate, and allows extra surface area on the pan to add weight, when needed...

I'm sure Mr. Bell will enjoy running this, when I get it finished... I really enjoy building RetroNASCARs, they're pretty darn sano!!! :victory:

Thanks, guys... Everyone take care, and good building and racing ... :good:


Jeff Easterly :yahoo:

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#89 JerseyJohn

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Posted 06 February 2009 - 07:49 AM

Man, I get warm old over when I see an anglewinder. Great job, Jeff...

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#90 GTPJoe

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Posted 07 February 2009 - 03:56 PM

Here's my take on a classic Steube F1 chassis:

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Not quite finished but you get the idea... Used a cut down BWA bracket. And all brass rod construction.
GTP Joe Connolly

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#91 Noose

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Posted 16 February 2009 - 03:09 PM

My latest using part of a Warmack kit, BWA bracket, Chicagoland guide tongue. .062" main rails and floppy spring stops. Weighs in at 57 grams without the front wheels.

Guess I should call it either the Blue Moon Mobile or Not a Snap Together. :laugh2:

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Joe "Noose" Neumeister
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The only thing bad about Retro is admitting that you remember doing it originally.


#92 GTPJoe

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Posted 16 February 2009 - 03:59 PM

This is my:

NOT A Lee Gilbert Chassis... fun to do just the same!

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GTP Joe Connolly

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#93 team burrito

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Posted 26 February 2009 - 11:46 PM

Built a couple of new F1-type chassis over the past two weeks. The first one is a typical VMRA chassis, using a 16D motor:

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This is a close-up of the axle tube reinforcement on the REH #3000 bracket.

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Next is a center pivot chassis I once made for VMRA. I know it can't be used at any D3 or Retro event, but I couldn't resist myself.

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And here's a close-up of the center pivot action with floating pans. I may put this together just for the fun of it.

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#94 Craig

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Posted 08 March 2009 - 09:57 PM

Well folks, I haven't posted anything new for some time and thought I'd share some shots of a RetroPro I finished up over the weekend.

I found an old M&M nose piece .050" thick and figured this would be great for this class of race car. Since this is a faster class and we run the Big Dog motor, the thicker nose piece will be much stronger for the inevitable hard hit. I also extended the front axle uprights forward and perpendicular at the leading edge of the nose piece for added bulletproofing.

complete_retro.jpg

Notice the third inner rail, this is so I don't have to cut the ear of the can side of the motor.

complete_retro_bottom.jpg

At the back of the car I've design in extra adjustability by using a hinged bite bar assembly.

comple_retro_rear.jpg

On to the front, here I've incorporated an additional hinge to not only hold the pans parallel but also to keep them from dipping down under the car, thus keeping them from dragging the track.

complete_retro_front.jpg

Enjoy and thanks for lQQking!
Craig Correia

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#95 RapidRobert

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Posted 09 March 2009 - 08:52 PM

It's been 38 years since I last built a chassis and raced a slot car. My-oh-my what a difference a jig and a good iron makes! (Rick's and Inland Studio Professional, respectively)

Here is my first attempt at a IRRA/Retro East chassis which I hope to race as a GT Coupe at this weekend's R4, unless it's junk...in which case it will be back to my trusty Skunkworks.

Thanks to Mike McMasters for telling me about Retro Slots last June, Rick Bennardo for his chassis building parts and equipment (especially his jig) and, most of all, to Jersey John Molnar who has freely offered tips, advice, and constant encouragement.

Motor bracket: BWA, uncut
All rails, axle supports and pan hinges are .062 piano wire
Guide tongue: R-Geo, .040 pre-formed
Inside main rail separation: .830
Tongue narrowed to .830 to accommodate inside main rails and shortened to 1.8"
Pans: Modified R-Geo, .026 x .867 wide
Pan stop: .055 wire in 3/32 square tube
4" wheelbase
15/16" guide lead
58.8 grams
Tumbled (obviously)

If I had it to do over (which I do!), I'd make the hinges out of smaller wire and would reinforce the forward part of the pans to prevent droop.

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Bob Young

#96 Tigwldr

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Posted 27 March 2009 - 08:37 PM

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#97 Chris Barnes

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Posted 01 April 2009 - 02:33 PM

Here is a new chassis that started as a JK kit. I have removed the flod-up front axle "holders" and modified the guide tongue.

To me this is a "scratchbuilt" car using the JK kit.

chris1a.jpg

chris2a.jpg

#98 Jay Guard

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Posted 01 April 2009 - 05:03 PM

My first Stock Car for our SERRA Series...

.062" main rails, .047" center rails, JK bracket, S7-620 Guide tongue, .750" guide lead, 4.5" wheelbase, .032" thick brass, RTR weight (without lead)=119 grams.

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Jay Guard
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#99 Jay Guard

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Posted 01 April 2009 - 05:09 PM

My R4/2 Can-Am, note the politically correct folded front uprights and body mount tabs.

.032" thick brass, .062" main rails, .047" center rails, S7-620 guide, .900" guide lead, JK bracket, 4.0" wheelbase. RTR weight 104 grams.

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#100 MantaRay

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Posted 22 April 2009 - 04:08 PM

A new F-1 build for Ray

JK 3/4 bracket, .062 pans hinged with .062 in 3/32" sq tube, 4" long, 1" guide lead, "Coined" guide tongue, .078 wire in 3 sided 1/8" channel up stops (very little movement).The center brass piece is only soldered to the rails for 3/4's of an inch....I will see how the bite is and go from there. I made the rear long but able to fit under a Cooper. Can adjust as necessary. I'll let you know how she works!

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