3140 replies to this topic

[MSwiss]

With the success of tonyp's JK F1 bracketed Can-Am car in it's first race, I decided to build one, also.

After my first attempt came out too goofy, I rebuilt it, just grafting on a spare standard JK nosepiece I had laying around. The finished chassis came out quite a bit more "normal" looking.







With the narrow 3/4" wide bracket, I made a little more effort bracing the outer part of the axle tube.

[The Bugman]

Very cool build (I'm taking notes). I wonder how it would be on the King track...

[Craig]

Hi again folks,

I've been busy the last couple weeks and here are a couple new sleds I've built.







One more being worked on currently, will post upon completion.

[Joe Mig]

Lets give this a try!

Just built by me.

[Don Weaver]

SERRA Stockcar racing starts in February at 'Slots of Fun' in Abbeville, SC. I built these chassis for my three racing friends from Lexington, SC, and had hoped to have them ready for Christmas but that didn't work out. They are all the same except for the body mounts... Dan likes pin tubes and Jim and Richard prefer body clips.





Double .062" main rails on the inside and outside of the motor bracket running to the front clip (.062" plate). Bulletproofed the S-7 guide since I had to cut so deep for guide clearance because of the 3/4" GL rule. The prototype I built like these had some chatter coming out of slow turns and on starting up so I added gussets on each side of the motor box and this seemed to eliminate the problem. The pans are hingeless and the movement is controlled by up/down and back and forth stops.

Some close-ups:





The bare chassis weighs 79 grams and should come in at around 130/135 grams RTR. The prototype ran about .5 seconds slower than the faster Can-Ams on 'Slots of Fun's' 135 Grandstand so hopefully they will be competitive when SERRA comes to town.

Don Weaver

[Josh Crutchfield]

JK Spec chassis built for Tom Thumb's original King. The car weighs 113 grams and has a wheelbase of 4". The front clearance is set at .030"...
Here is a link to the BUILD.

[Justin A. Porter]

There's still some work to do to get it to 100%, but here's what I have so far of the retro chassis I intend to bring to the R4.



This picture was taken to show one of the style of my Dad's chassis I've broken down and raided for components. He insisted that I save this one from all of the others in the bottom of the box.

[slotcarone]

Pretty interesting!!!

Can I offer some advice??? In order for the solder joints to have any strength you have to clean and scuff all the pieces of brass and steel wire before you try to solder them together!!! These cars take a beating and even the best solder joints often break.

[Dominator]

Here's another new chassis design for me based on my F1 design.

Brass is all .032" thick with the pan and nose design similar to my torsion chassis in post 33. Guide tongue is a trimmed down Slick 7. Main rails are .063" with a small piece of .063" brass at the top of the rails to help support the guide tongue. The nose is hung using two pieces of .032" wire over the guide tongue. The pans are hinges in the front using 1/16" tubing with .032" wire inside. The rear of the chassis is connected to the pans with a tube on the center section which has a piece of .055" wire passing through it which is then attached to the pans. The center section slides side to side a little for some give. Forgot to mention the guide lead is 7/8" and the wheel base is 3.950". Body mounts are shakers.

Sorry for the poor clarity. My wife broke the good camera so I had to resort to a camera phone.

[Bob Campbell]

Hey Dom,

I like it! The guide area looks along the same lines as the car I built in Feb. 2008 and have been running since then. My chassis uses a stop hanging down from the front axle to hang the nose. This works the same way that the .032" wire over the guide tongue works on your chassis.





I have found this to be a easy to drive car. I have another design that might be slightly faster but I turn more laps with this car due to less offs! I'm in the process of building Gen. II as we speak. I will post pictures when finished.

[Rick]

Testing a new nosepiece this weekend. A few possibilities/options with this one.

[MSwiss]

Here's an IRRA stocker chassis I built for a customer. I had to do some chopping and channeling to get it to legal specs.

4.5" wheelbase , .750" guide lead, 2.993" width.

When I get a chance, I'll add some pics to my JK Spec chassis article on where to cut it and how to brace it.



Formed (coined) steel guide brace.
Cut lines in the chassis are capped with two pieces of .062" piano and a piece of .064 x 1/4" brass.



JK hypoid bracket. Torsion bar wire stops were soldered on, overhanging the stock pans a bit. I then ground that overhang flat, even with the ends of the pans, and butt-soldered some .064 x 1/4" strip on to lengthen the pans and add weight to the back tires.

[Slotgeezer]

Hmmmm...

D3 Scratchbuilt chassis gallery??!!

Well, I guess I'll post some pics, too, fellas !! LOL !!







Many thanks to Bryan Warmack, for one of his super-sano anglewinder motor brackets...

My buddy Mr. Bell up in Stockton had requested that I build some RetroNASCARs to run in Division III at BP that could use full-width .820" rear tires from JK... Bryan's sano motor bracket allowed me to keep the rear end narrow enough to let that happen...

.062" x 1" x 1.2" long nose piece, with two .047" piano wire "spacer" rails, soldered on each long side... .078" main "U"-rail ... 4.5" wheelbase, with a .700" guide lead, to fit the ED Mercury Cyclone body... I used .055" piano wire inside of 3/32" brass tubing for the pan hinges... Pans are .890" wide, cut from 1" x .032" K&S material... Made me remember Mr. John Kallas, who used to race with us in D3, but hasn't been around lately... John's excellent chassis used this style of hinge... Easy to fabricate, and allows extra surface area on the pan to add weight, when needed...

I'm sure Mr. Bell will enjoy running this, when I get it finished... I really enjoy building RetroNASCARs, they're pretty darn sano!!!

Thanks, guys... Everyone take care, and good building and racing ...


Jeff Easterly

[JerseyJohn]

Man, I get warm old over when I see an anglewinder. Great job, Jeff...

[GTPJoe]

Here's my take on a classic Steube F1 chassis:







Not quite finished but you get the idea... Used a cut down BWA bracket. And all brass rod construction.

[Noose]

My latest using part of a Warmack kit, BWA bracket, Chicagoland guide tongue. .062" main rails and floppy spring stops. Weighs in at 57 grams without the front wheels.

Guess I should call it either the Blue Moon Mobile or Not a Snap Together.

[GTPJoe]

This is my:

NOT A Lee Gilbert Chassis... fun to do just the same!

[team burrito]

Built a couple of new F1-type chassis over the past two weeks. The first one is a typical VMRA chassis, using a 16D motor:



This is a close-up of the axle tube reinforcement on the REH #3000 bracket.



Next is a center pivot chassis I once made for VMRA. I know it can't be used at any D3 or Retro event, but I couldn't resist myself.



And here's a close-up of the center pivot action with floating pans. I may put this together just for the fun of it.

[Craig]

Well folks, I haven't posted anything new for some time and thought I'd share some shots of a RetroPro I finished up over the weekend.

I found an old M&M nose piece .050" thick and figured this would be great for this class of race car. Since this is a faster class and we run the Big Dog motor, the thicker nose piece will be much stronger for the inevitable hard hit. I also extended the front axle uprights forward and perpendicular at the leading edge of the nose piece for added bulletproofing.



Notice the third inner rail, this is so I don't have to cut the ear of the can side of the motor.



At the back of the car I've design in extra adjustability by using a hinged bite bar assembly.



On to the front, here I've incorporated an additional hinge to not only hold the pans parallel but also to keep them from dipping down under the car, thus keeping them from dragging the track.



Enjoy and thanks for lQQking!

[RapidRobert]

It's been 38 years since I last built a chassis and raced a slot car. My-oh-my what a difference a jig and a good iron makes! (Rick's and Inland Studio Professional, respectively)

Here is my first attempt at a IRRA/Retro East chassis which I hope to race as a GT Coupe at this weekend's R4, unless it's junk...in which case it will be back to my trusty Skunkworks.

Thanks to Mike McMasters for telling me about Retro Slots last June, Rick Bennardo for his chassis building parts and equipment (especially his jig) and, most of all, to Jersey John Molnar who has freely offered tips, advice, and constant encouragement.

Motor bracket: BWA, uncut
All rails, axle supports and pan hinges are .062 piano wire
Guide tongue: R-Geo, .040 pre-formed
Inside main rail separation: .830
Tongue narrowed to .830 to accommodate inside main rails and shortened to 1.8"
Pans: Modified R-Geo, .026 x .867 wide
Pan stop: .055 wire in 3/32 square tube
4" wheelbase
15/16" guide lead
58.8 grams
Tumbled (obviously)

If I had it to do over (which I do!), I'd make the hinges out of smaller wire and would reinforce the forward part of the pans to prevent droop.

[Tigwldr]

[Chris Barnes]

Here is a new chassis that started as a JK kit. I have removed the flod-up front axle "holders" and modified the guide tongue.

To me this is a "scratchbuilt" car using the JK kit.

[Jay Guard]

My first Stock Car for our SERRA Series...

.062" main rails, .047" center rails, JK bracket, S7-620 Guide tongue, .750" guide lead, 4.5" wheelbase, .032" thick brass, RTR weight (without lead)=119 grams.

[Jay Guard]

My R4/2 Can-Am, note the politically correct folded front uprights and body mount tabs.

.032" thick brass, .062" main rails, .047" center rails, S7-620 guide, .900" guide lead, JK bracket, 4.0" wheelbase. RTR weight 104 grams.

[MantaRay]

A new F-1 build for Ray

JK 3/4 bracket, .062 pans hinged with .062 in 3/32" sq tube, 4" long, 1" guide lead, "Coined" guide tongue, .078 wire in 3 sided 1/8" channel up stops (very little movement).The center brass piece is only soldered to the rails for 3/4's of an inch....I will see how the bite is and go from there. I made the rear long but able to fit under a Cooper. Can adjust as necessary. I'll let you know how she works!