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Scratchbuilt chassis gallery


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#101 JimF

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 05:23 PM

This is my first new build in some six months and my first posting with my new (finally) computer. This new car is both longer and stiffer in flex than most of my other recent stuff. It is also my first full scratch in a while (I've been using kit nosepieces and sometimes the kit pans)

This is a 4x1 inch wheelbase built with fairly rough track conditions in mind. My theory being that shorter and more flexible may be marginally faster on smooth tracks but possibly tougher to drive on rough ones. This is ready for some clean-up of excess solder, a stint in the tumbler, and some testing.

Top view shows the JK offset bracket and S7 guide tongue. Rails and all bracing is .078". Flat plate in front is .032", weight tabs at rear are .063", hinged pans are .016". This car will hit the track at about 118 grams with a TSR motor and this O/S #414 Ferrari.

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This view shows the combo bracket brace, weight tab inside the bracket. The pan retainer tubes shown here are 1/8" sq. tubing with the stop bar being .055" wire.

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Front end setup shows a very long nosepiece and long .078" upright bracing. The little notches in the center slab are where the solder joints stop. I can go back and solder up the rails behind these notches but I think it's stiff enough as is.

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I know this won't be bad but it may not be good either... we shall see.
Jim Fowler




#102 Craig

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Posted 01 May 2009 - 12:58 PM

Well, folks, looks as if I missed sharing these two builds with you so here they are. They both have new owners and you may see them at a raceway near you.

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Craig Correia
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#103 Josh Crutchfield

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Posted 03 May 2009 - 08:26 PM

Here is my latest attempt for can am. The chassis has a 3.90 wheelbase and 4.90 GL. The rails are double .062 as is all the wire in the front. The rear bracket is from REH. The outer pans are .064 and the inner pans are .047 wire with chunks of .064 towards the rear. .062 bite bar
Josh
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#104 Tex

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Posted 04 May 2009 - 11:57 AM

Oh, quit copyin' everyone, Josh!


Just kidding; very unique!
Richard L. Hofer

Remember, two wrongs don't make a right... but three lefts do! Only you're a block over and a block behind.

#105 Craig

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Posted 04 May 2009 - 08:05 PM

My newest build as of this afternoon. It's the second build of this style, John Gorski inspired design less the square main rails. Warmack kit chopped up as you see with .078 main rail, 4-5/8" long, 3-3/4" wheel base, 7/8" guide lead and weighs in as shown at 55 grams. Built for the BPR King track.

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Craig Correia
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#106 Rick

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Posted 06 May 2009 - 11:53 AM

Thought I would post a pic before I sent it away. Jail Door GP. 3 7/8" wheelbase ala Steube, 5/8" guide lead, widest point 1.200". Modified widgit per TonyP. Going to the left coast.

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#107 Tigwldr

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Posted 08 May 2009 - 08:30 PM

I like challenges to build. I search all the pics I see and Jay Gaurds stuff appeals to my style of building so I took another of his chasis and made my own changes to it. This is the latest one I have built. This car handles great. My son finished 5th with it last weekend at the abbeville retro series. It is similar to the first one I built but with smaller wire. Thanks Jay for OKing me to use your ideas. :D :D


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#108 Craig

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Posted 14 May 2009 - 08:21 PM

This one is like the other 2 railer I built last week but with subtle differences. 1/8" (oops, not 1/8", 1/4") shorter and a slightly different pan up-stop. Sorry folks, this ones for me!

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Craig Correia
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#109 Craig

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Posted 21 May 2009 - 08:08 PM

Next, my first ever jail door chassis.

This thing was a blast to built. I made tons of mistakes and had several do-overs but all in all I had a great time making this car. I can't wait for the Legends race to see how it is against all the other JD rides.


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#110 Dooner

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Posted 21 May 2009 - 11:48 PM

Craig,
I really like your first J-D chassis. :)

I do not know if that drop arm would be legal for J-D from what I see?
Tom Backes

#111 Tex

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Posted 22 May 2009 - 06:56 AM

Steube himself has made several JD chassis' with a similar drop arm, laying brass/bronze rods side-by-side and soldering them all together.
Richard L. Hofer

Remember, two wrongs don't make a right... but three lefts do! Only you're a block over and a block behind.

#112 Kevin Juliot

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Posted 22 May 2009 - 09:17 AM

Maybe it's that it is not a single piece drop arm with a step up bent into it for the guide. Looks like another section soldered on top of the flat drop arm like a guide tongue.

#113 Tex

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Posted 22 May 2009 - 09:58 AM

Sharp eye.... went right over my head.
Richard L. Hofer

Remember, two wrongs don't make a right... but three lefts do! Only you're a block over and a block behind.

#114 Kevin Juliot

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Posted 23 May 2009 - 07:46 PM

I haven't built a chassis in 17 years but after looking at all the great chassis builds posted here and in the race reports from BPR I just had to build one of my own. The closest track that races retro is days drive away from me, but maybe I can make the Sano. After seeing a BPR race report from March I decided to build a "Stuebe" inspired D3 chassis from the pictures. Along with a lot of help from Mike's video, thank you. Next up a JD chassis, JD GP then paint up some bodies, man this is fun!!

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#115 Tex

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Posted 23 May 2009 - 08:03 PM

Looks great!
Richard L. Hofer

Remember, two wrongs don't make a right... but three lefts do! Only you're a block over and a block behind.

#116 Jobiwan

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Posted 26 May 2009 - 07:11 PM

This build was inspired by Tony P. It has a plumber hinge with the front axle attached to the side pans. It has a BWA rear bracket, double .062" main rails, .062" side pans, 4 inch wheelbase, 1.100" guide lead.

I hate using straight pins to mount a body and always use body clips so the body is mounted to the side pans instead of bring mounted to the center pan. The center pan moves independently. The rear brace acts as the upstop and downstop.

It tips the scales at 111.2 grams ready to race.

This was a fun build for me and I hope that it works well on the track. Now all I have to do is paint a new body for it.

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#117 slotcarone

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Posted 26 May 2009 - 09:16 PM

:D Beautiful build, Joe!!! If it handles as good as it looks you will have a winner on your hands.

You can never go wrong using Tony's designs - he is a master builder AND innovator!!!

Good luck :wink3:

Mike Katz

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#118 gascarnut

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Posted 26 May 2009 - 11:42 PM

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Sized to fit a Lola T70 - more photos when it is assembled.
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#119 Kevin Juliot

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Posted 27 May 2009 - 04:08 PM

Wow, super nice JD chassis Dennis.

#120 Duffy

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Posted 27 May 2009 - 05:48 PM

My JailDoor Chaparral 2A chassis, pretty generic but for the body tubes extended & set up on risers to accomodate the significant body rocker.

Duffy

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#121 Tex

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Posted 27 May 2009 - 06:26 PM

Ah, a Chappy 2A! SOMEthing besides just Lolii T-70's and Lotii 40's. I have nothing against EITHER of those bodies and have built cars under both; it's just nice to see some variety. :good:
Richard L. Hofer

Remember, two wrongs don't make a right... but three lefts do! Only you're a block over and a block behind.

#122 Josh Crutchfield

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Posted 31 May 2009 - 09:08 PM

This is a pretty basic build. It uses a Warmack nose piece that has been heavily lightened. The rear bracket is from REH. The mainrails are double .055 and the wheelbase is 3.90 with a 4.90 GL. The body is a Red Fox TI 22. The complete car weighs in at 99.7 grams. I had a chance to run it Tom Thumbs and it seems to be pretty good.
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#123 Chris Cassidy

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Posted 31 May 2009 - 09:35 PM

This is a modified jk chassis. Can you see how it works???????

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#124 Rick

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 12:29 AM

Samurai Floppy. Builds rather easy. Just under 4" whelbase and 7/8" guide lead. 55 grams. I may change pan hangers to front end to pans and that would tidy up the middle.

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#125 team burrito

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Posted 01 June 2009 - 01:11 AM

Hey, Rick. I wouldn't do the upstops like that. I would run a straight piece of wire across the main rails & solder a "U" brace next to it. Much stronger. ya' know. :rolleyes:
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