Scratchbuilt chassis gallery
#151
Posted 07 August 2009 - 06:29 PM
Looks like the pinion is already chewing the crown gear up
You need an angled 48P steel pinion for that hypoid bracket.
Tex, he already answered your question
- damyankee likes this
Paul Wolcott
#152
Posted 07 August 2009 - 11:04 PM
Good job on your first scratch build chassis.
One suggestion is to get a hotter iron, Use a 45 to 50 watt Ungar ( I think now sold by Weller) or similar with a wedge shaped tip, about 3/16 to 1/4 wide.
A hotter iron will help you get those smooth joints you see on the other guy's chassis.
Old trick is to assemble on a hot plate, but that is hard to do, and I don't think anybody does that any more.
For big plates like soldering guide tounges on a drop arm, try a mini butane torch, that work with lighter fluid. These do a good job and are about $30. Those work really good and get the solder flowing.
Good luck on your scratch building
Rudy
Slick 7 Products
Rudy Garriga
Slick 7 Slot Racing
#153
Posted 07 August 2009 - 11:49 PM
I do, I do!! Works good on guide tongues and other big stuff. Also the best way to disassemble an old chassis when reusing the brass parts. One bit of advise, do this when your wife is not home. They just don't understand!
Bob C.
- Samiam likes this
Bob Campbell
BC RallySport
Colorado Springs, CO
#154
Posted 08 August 2009 - 08:32 AM
Thanks very much for the the kind words...I appreciate it.
This chassis handles pretty well on the local hillclimb type
tracks. I haven't tried it on a King yet. It was designed for
the BPR flat track I guess. My complete car with a True Scale
Lola coupe body weighs 128g, almost identical to Mike's
original car.
I have a good Inland soldering iron and heat control...it's my
technique that needs some work!...I couldn't bend the pan
hinge wires quite right for them to lie flat..hence some extra
solder on the pans.
I added some extra solder at the bottom rear half rails which
caused some "blobbiness"..
I still have a long way to go...
Thanks !
#155
Posted 08 August 2009 - 11:24 PM
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Rick Bennardo
"Professional Tinkerer"
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#156
Posted 09 August 2009 - 07:14 AM
11/4/49-1/23/15
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#157
Posted 12 August 2009 - 12:42 PM
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Rick Bennardo
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Lead! The easy equalizer...
#158
Posted 12 August 2009 - 01:05 PM
What is the lenght and guide lead?
11/4/49-1/23/15
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#159
Posted 12 August 2009 - 01:31 PM
Rick, last march Foamy gave me a car to run in a big D3 event (I had not done a car as the rules were moving around a bit then), and it was wonderful. 24 racers qualified within 3tenths, and I was top of the C, and leading when someone nailed me in the 90 and broke a pan mount. Your perimeter frame would have protected the pan...and I woulda been a 'contenda'".
Or not! Grin.
Fate
3/6/48-1/1/12
Requiescat in Pace
#160
Posted 12 August 2009 - 02:04 PM
#161
Posted 12 August 2009 - 02:05 PM
This is the first time I have seen the floating pieces in the center of an anglewinder, Have seen them on F1s but not on big chassis. How well do the chassis work?
Hi Phil,
I reproduced Joel Montague's 1973 NATS winning car with a chassis featuring a "clicker" or floating piece in the center of the chassis. What's old is new again
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Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
The Independent Scratchbuilder
There's much more to come...
#162
Posted 12 August 2009 - 04:55 PM
John Chas Molnar
"Certified Newark Wise Guy since 1984" (retired)
"Certified Tony P Chassis God 2007.2023
Retro Chassis Designer-Builder
#163
Posted 22 August 2009 - 09:35 AM
Below are a few pics of a new build from the JK Kit.
I wanted to build a 2 wire chassis for a King Track (Sano III)
I used a Z-Bend tool (used for bending control rods on RC planes) to bend .055 wire to fit
inside the .062 outer rails. It is able to scoot around the motor bracket and have a good deal
of soldering area. The motor lays perfectly in side.
I also shortened the axle tube this time. I have had some problems with them getting crushed.
Going to try some Stainless tubing for spacers.
Some .062 brass is used for the down stops in the back.
Three sided channel and .078 wire acts as up stops on the front.
11/4/49-1/23/15
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#164
Posted 22 August 2009 - 10:30 AM
Remember, two wrongs don't make a right... but three lefts do! Only you're a block over and a block behind.
#165
Posted 22 August 2009 - 01:48 PM
Here is a RGEO Smaurai, built as a torsion chassis
Real simple. gonna try it out at Chicagoland today...............
11/4/49-1/23/15
Requiescat in Pace
#166
Posted 22 August 2009 - 07:14 PM
I have just finished the AutoCad stage and purchasing Brass. As of tonight, Bill has the Drawings and Brass. Hopefully in a week or two I'll have some parts to start building. Can't wait to post some pictures
BTW: Build looks good
#167
Posted 02 September 2009 - 09:27 PM
Rick Bennardo
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#168
Posted 03 September 2009 - 06:41 AM
Remember, two wrongs don't make a right... but three lefts do! Only you're a block over and a block behind.
#169
Posted 03 September 2009 - 07:32 AM
Rick Bennardo
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#170
Posted 03 September 2009 - 09:26 AM
Remember, two wrongs don't make a right... but three lefts do! Only you're a block over and a block behind.
#171
Posted 03 September 2009 - 04:10 PM
And bow ties too...............
Phil i
#172
Posted 03 September 2009 - 04:19 PM
And bow ties too...............
Phil i
Yeah! Remember Gary Moore?
Remember, two wrongs don't make a right... but three lefts do! Only you're a block over and a block behind.
#173
Posted 04 September 2009 - 07:58 PM
Yeah! Remember Gary Moore?
hehehe...I do...
PHIL I
#174
Posted 04 September 2009 - 09:42 PM
hehehe...I do...
PHIL I
Jeez, we're old.
Remember, two wrongs don't make a right... but three lefts do! Only you're a block over and a block behind.
#175
Posted 04 September 2009 - 11:42 PM
Rick Bennardo
"Professional Tinkerer"
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